Full Product Manual

9
16
VISCOSITY GUIDE
A Viscosity Cup is included with your Fuji M-System.
To test the viscosity of the paint material, fill the Viscosity Cup to the
brim and time how long it takes for the liquid to empty out through the
hole. We recommend you experiment to find the ideal viscosity for
your application and record the information for the next time.
Always check with the manufacturer of the coating for assistance in
thinning for spraying. If their product is only designed to be brushed,
they may not be too helpful. But remember that any type of coating
can be sprayed if it is thinned correctly and you have installed the
ideal aircap set.
The chart below illustrates how many SECONDS it should take for the
material to flow out of the viscosity cup. This is only an approximate
guide.
Auto Cellulose 18 - 20 Primers 30 - 40
Lacquers 18 - 20 Sanding Sealers 20 - 22
Enamels 20 - 25 Stains Undiluted
Latex 20 - 30 Creosote Undiluted
Oil-based 20 - 25 Polyurethanes 20 - 25
We suggest thinning around 25% to begin with but this may contra-
vene the air quality control laws for your location. The solvent used for
thinning is usually the solvent mentioned on the can (instructions for
‘cleaning the brushes’). However, please check with the coatings
manufacturer.
HVLP spraying is more friendly to the environment than most methods
of spraying. It reduces appreciably the amount of unnecessary misting
and fogging (overspray) associated with high-pressure spraying.
Spraying with Nitrocellulose lacquer can be hazardous. The lacquer,
fumes and overspray are toxic, flammable and explosive. If
spraying must be done inside an enclosed area, ventilate well. Spray
close to an open window or door and situate a fan to draw out the
fumes (an explosion-proof motor and explosion-proof lighting will be
necessary).
Please check with the local Authority having jurisdiction on
this matter.
CLEANING FLUID PASSAGES
To clean, flush appropriate solvent (refer to material manufacturer's
cleaning recommendations) through the Spraygun while the paint is
still wet inside the gun. If this type of quick cleaning is performed
frequently, the Spray Gun will function well for many years. 99% of
problems with a Spray Gun stem from clogs in the fluid passages and
(perhaps more important), the Pressure Tube air passages. Please
see Page 13... No Paint (or very little paint).
CLEANING BEHIND THE FLUID NOZZLE
Remove the Collar #1 and Aircap #2.
Using the supplied wrench, remove the Fluid Nozzle #3. Once the Fluid
Nozzle #3 is removed it is relatively easy to clean behind it with the
cleaning brush and soapy water.
For a more thorough cleaning, remove all parts at the front of the barrel
- Collar, Aircap, Fluid Nozzle etc. You may soak the parts in solvent.
Also, remove the Fluid Knob 7, Spring 9 and Needle Assembly 8 from
the rear of the gun. The Needle Assembly can then be soaked and
later wiped clean.
PLEASE DO NOT SOAK THE WHOLE GUN IN ANY LIQUID - THIS IS
NEVER NECESSARY OR ADVISABLE.
CLOGGED GUN - THE FLUID COUPLER
If the Fluid Coupler 16 is clogged with dried paint it must be cleaned
while in place in the gun. The Fluid Coupler 16 should never be
removed. Remove the cup assembly by loosening the Nut at the top
of the Assembly. Use the supplied Cleaning Brush to unclog the inside