Use and Care Manual

If you choose to prune however, follow the simple steps: First, remove suckers from the base of the
plant. Second, as the tree grows, remove lower branches form the bottom third of the tree to expose
the trunk character. Last, remove crowded or crossing branches from the canopy.
The seedheads are an attractive feature and should be left on the tree. As the new growth pushed in the
spring, the seedheads fall off. Some folks find that objectionable; if desired the seedheads can be
removed by heading back to above where a leaf joins the stem, or if no leaves are present, just above a
lateral bud. On some cultivars, pruning to remove spent flower blossoms after they fade will stimulate
new growth and another blossom flush in late summer. A second bloom is sometimes difficult to force
on cultivars that bloom after mid-July.
Crape myrtles in tree form make wonderful accent plants or specimen trees. Many cultivars develop
attractive trunks with exfoliating bark that add interest to the winter garden. To develop a tree shape,
select three to five radially-spaced branches slightly leaning to the outside, these will become the main
trunks. spaced shoots growing from ground level as the main trunks. Then remove side branches from
these shoots about halfway up their height. As the plant grows taller, more lower branches can be
removed each year so the canopy begins 3 to 4 feet above ground level. You may also need to remove
suckers (new young succulent spouts that grow from the base) periodically in order to maintain the
desired tree shape. Some landscapers apply a synthetic plant growth regulator, called NAA (naphthalene
acetic acid), to suckers after pruning to prevent them from re-sprouting.