Owners manual
Fidanza Performance
4285 MAIN STREET PERRY, OH 44081
P: 1.440.259.5656 F: 1.440.259.5588
www.fldanza.com
CLUTCH INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
INSTALLATION OF THIS CLUTCH SET SHOULD ONLY BE PERFORMED BY PROPERLY TRAINED, PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS.
THE INFORMATION ON THIS SHEET IS INTENDED FOR REFERENCE ONLY AND DOES NOT DETAIL ALL POSSIBLE CLUTCH R&l
SCENARIOS. THIS SHEET STRESSES SAFETY AND GENERAL SERVICE PRACTICES TO PROMOTE A SAFE AND SUCCESSFUL
INSTALLATION. CONSULT A MODEL-SPECIFIC SERVICE MANUAL FOR MANUFACTURER'S TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS AND
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
TEST-DRIVE
It is important to test drive a vehicle whenever possible prior to any work. Listen for any abnormal noises. Note when they occur and whether or
not the noise is consistent with a particular action, vehicle speed or ambient temperature. This will give you an idea of what you'll see when the
vehicle is disassembled. This will also prevent you from neglecting other clutch or driveline system components that may be causing the clutch
to not function properly.
VEHICLE DISASSEMBLY: WEAR EYE PROTECTION
If the vehicle has a hydraulic clutch release system, check the fluid level and condition. Check for leaks. Inspect the clutch master cylinder cap
gasket. If it does not resemble its original molded shape or will not pop back into shape, suspect expect possible fluid contamination and be
prepared to replace all hydraulic clutch release system components. If the clutch master cylinder reservoir has dark sediment present, flush and
refill the system with approved fluid.
NOTE: Many FWD and FWD based 4WD/AWD vehicles require the engine to be supported from the top with an engine support fixture (see
manufacturer's recommendations).
Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise and support vehicle. Check the transmission (transaxle) fluid level and condition. On 4WD/AWD
vehicles, check the transfer case fluid level and condition. If the vehicle is equipped with a clutch release cable, disconnect it. Remove the
driveshaft(s) or CV axles. On 4WD and RWD vehicles, use a tire crayon or permanent marker to make alignment marks between the
driveshaft(s) and yoke(s). This will prevent possible driveline vibration and clutch chatter upon reassembly.
Remove the starter as needed. Disconnect speedometer cable (if equipped). If the vehicle is equipped with rod and bell crank ("Z-bar") release
linkage; disconnect it. If vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic release mechanism, remove slave cylinder (external slave) or disconnect hydraulic
hose from slave cylinder (internal slave). While supporting the transmission with a jack, remove the transmission mount(s) and/or cross member.
Lower the transmission jack (or engine support fixture) to gain access to bolts and wiring connectors necessary for transmission (transaxle)
removal. Disconnect sensor wires leading to the transmission (transaxle) and tie them out of the way. Remove transmission (transaxle) to
engine bolts. If transmission separates from bell housing, it will ease removal and installation to take them apart. Remove the pressure plate by
loosening the bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. This prevents undue damage to the pressure plate so that diagnosis of the clutch failure
may be accurate. When lifting the pressure plate off of the flywheel, do not allow the disc to fall. This way you know which side of the disc goes
toward the flywheel. Markings on discs are not always obvious. Mark the flywheel side of the old disc, then compare to the new disc. If the new
disc does not show its flywheel side, mark it and set it aside.
BALANCING
The Pressure Plate is a stamped steel product, which is balanced to a tolerance, but you should always check the balance of the pressure plate
with the flywheel and your particular engine. ESPECIALLY IF IT IS AN EXTERNALLY BALANCED ENGINE CONFIGURATION.
FLYWHEEL
The flywheel should be marked in relation to the crankshaft with a punch before removal to prevent possible engine vibration upon reassembly.
Check for bluing (hot spots), heat cracks, taper, warp, and starter ring gear wear. Replace the flywheel as necessary. NOTE: Some OEM
flywheels are tapered (concave) This feature cannot be duplicated by standard flywheel machining practices (see manufacturer's
recommendations). The flywheel must be resurfaced when unit is serviceable (see manufacturer's recommendations).
SANITATION AND INSPECTION: WEAR EYE PROTECTION
While the flywheel is removed, check the engine's rear main bearing seal for leaking. Closely inspect any freeze plugs, oil gallery plugs, or cam
plug in the back of the engine for seepage. Check all other non-clutch system related components for fluid leaks (i.e.; brake master cylinder,
valve cover gaskets, or cam sensor seal). Fluid leaks from these sources often make their way into the bell housing ruining the clutch. Check
the transmission input shaft seal for leaking. Repair all fluid leaks.
It is important to thoroughly clean the bell housing and the back of the engine block before installing and reassembling the parts (brake cleaner
works best). Clean the flywheel. Inspect the transmission input shaft bearing retainer (quill) for straightness, taper, out of round, and scoring.
Make sure the new release bearing slides easily on bearing retainer without being loose. Carefully inspect the fork and its pivot(s) (where
applicable) for flat spots. Look for gouging on the contact points (back) of the old release bearing. Carefully inspect the pilot running surface of
the transmission input shaft. Make sure it is round and there are no burrs or galling. Use manufacturer's specifications to check the transmission
input shaft for run-out and end-play. Thoroughly clean the splines of the input shaft with brake cleaner. Make sure the splines are not tapered or
burred. Lightly scrape any rust. If the vehicle has a hydraulic release mechanism, recheck the clutch master and slave cylinders for leaks (now
that the vehicle is in the air). Inspect the clutch hydraulic hose for cracks, dry rot, and ballooning. On vehicles with a release cable, inspect cable
ends for fraying. Check the cable casing for cracks. Make sure it operates smoothly. On vehicles with a rod and bell crank ("Z-bar") linkage
check to see if any bushings are worn or missing. Carefully inspect bell crank arms for straightness and welds for cracking. Make sure linkage
rods are not bent and the adjuster threads work smoothly. On all vehicles, check for worn or missing clutch pedal bushings. On 4WD and RWD
vehicles, inspect universal joints for wear, damage and proper lube. Inspect the driveshaft(s) for dents and damaged yokes. On FWD vehicles,
check the CV joints for torn boots and excessive (torsional) movement. Replace all worn or damaged parts.
Tech Line 1-440-259-5656
www.fidanza.com
1 VER. 04.13