User Manual

Environmental Technology Inc. South Bay Depot Rd., Fields Landing, CA. 95537
Ph: [phone] Web Site: www.eti-usa.com Email: [e-mail]
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ALLOW TO GEL
• Resin will gel [to consistency of set Jell-O TM) in about 15 to
25 minutes. Test the surface with a stir stick. There must be
sufficient firmness to support the weight of your embedment’s. If
surface has not reached a firm gel, wait a few more minutes and
test again with your stir stick.
• Layers in a casting must not be allowed to fully cure or harden
until the final layer has been poured. A fully cured layer will
shrink away from the sides of the mold, allowing an additional
pour to run down the sides of the previous layers. If this should
occur, it would necessitate a lengthy sanding and polishing job.
PLACE YOUR EMBEDMENTS
• REMEMBER… you are layering in reverse. The first layer you
pour becomes the front of your cast piece.
• Put embedment’s in place face down on top of the gelled layer.
(See Figure #2)
TIPS TO PREVENT TRAPPING AIR BUBBLES
• When embedding items that may entrap air bubbles on their
'face', pour half of your next batch of catalyzed resin into the
mold before placing the embedment’s. Then, lower embedment’s
slowly into the resin to expel air bubbles.
• For a dimensional object such as a dried flower, dip it into your
next batch of catalyzed resin before placing face down onto the
gelled surface.
• Gently press embedment’s with your stir stick to free trapped
bubbles.
POUR ADDITIONAL LAYERS
• Additional layers of embedment’s will give the appearance of
greater depth and a dimensional 'floating' look.
• Referring to the Catalyst Chart, add layers, repeating the
procedure previously outlined. Be sure to allow each layer to gel
before adding embedment’s. [See Figure #3)
• For the final layer you may wish to create a background using
colorants. Generally, 2-3 drops of dye or pigment per ounce of
casting resin will produce the desired color without inhibiting the
cure. Dye or pigment is added to the resin in addition to catalyst.
Make sure the previous layer has firmly gelled before pouring the
final color layer. Do not overfill your mold. [See Figure #4]
SPECIAL NOTE
Also in combination with colorant you may use 6 to 8 drops of a
surface-curing agent per ounce of resin. Surface curing agent is
used in addition to catalyst and resin to produce a tack-free
surface. [When a surface curing agent is used without colorant,
the appearance of the final layer will be slightly hazy rather than
clear.)
REMOVE CASTING FROM MOLD
• Tap the surface of your cast piece with a clean stir stick. When
cured, it will 'click hard' without sticking when tapped. The edges
of the cast will have shrunk away from the sides of the mold and
all or part of the face of the mold.
• If surface tackiness remains, allow up to several days hardening
time, checking periodically.
• Grasp the mold by the edges, invert over a clean piece of
Mylar
TM
or plastic wrap and flex the mold as you would an ice
cube tray. The cast, if properly catalyzed and hardened, should
drop out of the mold easily.
• To minimize blemishes and fingerprints, do not handle your
casting until it is absolutely dry.
FINISH BACK OF CASTING
• It is normal for the final surface layer to have a slightly textured
orange peel' appearance.
• To protect table tops and provide a more finished look, you
may want to cut a piece of felt or sheet cork and glue it to the
base of your cast piece. Epoxy glue or bond cement works well.
• To remove minor blemishes such as fingerprints, spray with
several coats of Resin Craft Surface Coat spray, which is a clear
acrylic sealer.