ENDEAVOUR 40 OWNERS MANUAL
ENDEAVOUR 40 OWNERS MANUAL Table of Contents 1. Introduction 2. List of Figures 3. Construction 3.1 Hull 3.2 Deck 3.3 Deck/Hull Joint 3.4 Rudder and Steering 3.5 Ballast 3.6 Interior Construction 4. Spars and Rigging 4.1 Spars 4.2 Standing Rigging, Running Rigging, Chainplates 4.3 Static Tuning (at the Dock) 4.4 Dynamic Tuning (under Sail) 5. Fuel System 5.1 Fuel Tank 5.2 Fueling 6. Engine and Transmission of Power 6.1 Engine 6.2 Transmissions 6.3 Propeller Shaft and Stuffing Box 6.
9. Plumbing System 9.1 Head and Holding Tank 9.2 Galley Stove Operation 10. Maintenance 10.1 Gelcoat Surfaces 10.2 Ports and Hatches 10.3 Teak 10.4 Hull Bottom 10.5 Standing Rigging 10.6 Running Rigging 10.7 Lifelines, Pulpits, Stanchions 10.8 Winches and Block 10.9 Engine 10.10 Power Train 10.11 Electrical Maintenance 10.12 Upholstery 10.13 Steering 11. Fitting Out 11.1 Prior to Launching 11.2 After Launching 11.3 Stepping the Spar 12. Laying Up for Winter Storage 12.1 Hauling (Slings) 12.
3. CONSTRUCTION 3.1) Hull: The hull is molded as a single unit of a combination of polyester resin and fiberglass woven roving and multi-directional chopped strand fiber (MCSF). The keel is molded integrally with the hull and all ballast is contained inside. The exterior finish is a pigmented gelcoat molded onto the fiberglass. The boot and sheer stripe are also gelcoat molded permanently into the hull. 3.
rudder, is solid stainless steel, which is welded to a steel blade in the interior of the rudder. Where the rudder post passes through the hull, water tightness is ensured by means of a stuffing box. It is recommended that the packing inside the stuffing box be replaced annually to ensure continued water tightness. Packing of the proper size is available from most marine hardware stores. The Endeavour 40 requires 3/8” square packing.
4. SPARS AND RIGGING 4.1) Spars: All spars (masts, booms, and spreaders) are extruded aluminum 6061-T6 alloy with a protective coating on all external surfaces. The main mast of the E-43 is stepped through the cabin roof onto the keel. The mizzen mast is stepped on deck with a supporting post or structure immediately under the mast. 4.2) Standing Rigging, Running Rigging, Chainplates: Standing rigging refers to all the fixed pieces of stainless steel wire which support the mast.
particular part of the rail or deck you choose as your reference point is not important as long as it is the same point on each side After the mast is centered transversely, tighten both upper shroud turnbuckles uniformly, one full turn on one side, then one full turn of the other. Repeat until the turnbuckles become difficult to turn. Pin the turnbuckles Tighten up the lower shroud turnbuckle so that almost all of the slack is removed.
RIGGING SPECIFICATIONS All lengths pin to pin ENDEAVOUR- 40 MAIN RIG HEADSTAY BACKSTAY UPPER SHROUDS LOWER FWD SHROUDS LOWER AFT SHROUDS SLOOP LENGTH 51’ 6” 53’ 9½” 49’ 9½” 26’ 2½” 26’ 4” DIAMETER 3/8” 3/8” 5/16” 5/16” 5/16” 4.5) Reefing: A) How to Setup Boom 1. A deadend for the reef line must be installed (unless 3550 boom is being used and then you can tie the reef line around the boom in proper location). This will vary in location depending on the cut of the sail and the reef location in the sail.
3. If you have a third reef point, rig an endless messenger between the second and third cringles with a short end loose as shown. After you have put in the second reef, untie the now unused first reefing line, tie it to the messenger and pull it through the third cringle and tie to the appropriate eyes trap (or through the grommet in the foot of the sail if you prefer this method) and you are ready to set the third reef. • SEE FIGURE #3 C) Reefing Procedure 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 5.
years of economical, dependable service. Specific technical questions regarding your engine may be answered by your dealer. 6.2) Transmissions: The diesel of the 40-foot model is fitted with a mechanical drive. To ensure trouble-free operation of the clutch, only use oil of the recommended type. Under no circumstances should the oil contain any additives such as molybdenum sulphite. We recommend commercial Automatic Transmission Fluid (AFT), Type A. Check the oil level in the gearbox about once a month.
E) Once even spacing is measured all around the flange, rotate the shaft 1800. If a significant mismatch occurs, your shaft is bent and must be straightened or the coupling face is out of square with the shaft centerline and must be machined to correct. F) Replace bolts and evenly tighten. 6.5) Propellers: The standard propeller supplied with all Endeavour models is a solid bronze, two-bladed type.
6.9) Exhaust System: In the Perkins engine, a water pump draws water through the intake port, circulates it through a heat exchanger, where it is pumped in the muffler and overboard through the exhaust port. The salt water in the heat exchanger lowers the temperature of the engine coolant circulated through the engine block by means of the normal engine water pump.
7.2) Starting the Engine: • 1) Turn the battery selector switch on the main electric panel to position ““, “, or “both”, depending on battery condition. 2) Switch engine room blower on. 3) Check that engine water intake valve is open and that water strainer is unobstructed. 4) Check fuel level. 5) Check that gear shift lever is in neutral and that throttle is slightly open. (With a Perkins engine, a cut off switch is incorporated to prevent starting if the engine is in gear.) 6) Turn ignition key on.
Metallic fittings (through hulls, etc.) below the water line are electrically bonded together with green plastic coated 8 gauge copper wire and connected to a common ship’s ground. This is done to minimize the effect of electrolytic action when the boat is used in salt water. 8.2) Direct Current (D.C.) System: The D.C. system in your yacht is powered by two 12-volt batteries connected in parallel to allow single or combined use. All shipboard D.C. equipment runs from these batteries.
On yachts equipped with hot water heaters, always make sure the heater is full of water before turning it on to prevent permanent damage to the heating coils. One can be sure it is full by operating the hot water tap on the pressure water system and observing continuous water flow. 9. PLUMBING SYSTEM 9.1) Head and Holding Tank: Proper operation and maintenance procedures for your head are covered in the information provided by the head manufacturer.
9.2) Galley Oven Range: The Endeavour 40 is equipped with either an alcohol oven range or a gas oven range. All necessary data and information is contained in the range manufacturer’s manual and is not repeated here. Figures #7 and #8 describe the plumbing system for these ranges.
10. MAINTENANCE All yachts require maintenance on a regular basis to stay in top operating condition and to keep looking their best. One should constantly check running and standing rigging, winches, engine, head, bilge, and surface finishes for telltale signs of needed maintenance. 10.1) Gelcoat Surfaces: The best protection for your gelcoat surfaces is to clean them regularly with fresh water and a good detergent.
C) Be careful of discarding uncured, mixed gel coat material. Once hardener is added, a chemical reaction takes place that generates heat. Large quantities can become very hot. Submerge material in water until cured for maximum safety. Flaws in Textured Non-Skid Surfaces - - Chip away any loose material and clean area to be repaired with acetone to remove any trace of dirt or wax. Make a thick gel putty as described in instructions for deep scratches and add hardener.
11.2) After Launching: A) Check all through hull fittings, gate valves, sea cocks, and the bilge to ensure that leakage is not occurring. B) Open the valve for the engine cooling water intake. C) Turn on main power switch and bilge blower. D) Use hand primer located at fuel pump to charge the fuel system. E) Start the engine. After engine has reached operating temperature, shut down and change the oil. 11.3) Stepping the Spar: Spars are stepped by two methods, depending on a yacht’s design.
Release lower shrouds from their lashing, connect the lower shrouds and snug up all turnbuckles. Replace clevis pins and cotter pins. To help prevent damage to sails, insert all clevis pins fore to aft or outboard to inboard and tape over the cotter pins. Release all running rigging and lead to the appropriate blocks and winches. Proceed with tuning the spar at the dock. (Section 4.3) To unstep the spar, reverse the above procedure.
B. C. D. E. Add some Elson Blue or equivalent through the deck ‘waste’ fittings. Clean the head bowl and pump water through. Add some antifreeze (such as Methanol) to the bowl of the head and pump it through the system. For best protection and trouble-free operation the next season, do the following: Remove the parts as per manufacturer’s instructions and clean all valves on the head. 12.
-."' i'''' ( PERKINS ~ IA1 ALTERATION IIlO. DRAWING -~, "I.', - WAYNIS I ,',', I,ll ... - - -REMOVE ALL & SHARP BURRS CORNERS UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED. TOLERANCES TO BE ± 00 30' UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED. ANGULAR M/M B ALTERATION, NO. ALL FI LLETS AND ROUNDS TO BE 3 [0.12]R INCH / , TOLERANCES ON MACHINED DIMENSIONS TO ± 0,4 [0.016] UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED. II.' ~[;r :"':'''--'' ( HOLE CENTERS & PITCH CIRCLE DIAMETERS TO BE WITHIN ± 0,2 [O.OOB].
