Bicycle Owner’s Manual 9th Edition, 2007 This manual meets EN Standards 14764, 14766 and 14781. IMPORTANT: This manual contains important safety, performance and service information. Read it before you take the first ride on your new bicycle, and keep it for reference. Additional safety, performance and service information for specific components such as suspension or pedals on your bicycle, or for accessories such as helmets or lights that you purchase, may also be available.
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GENERAL WARNING: Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know — and to practice — the rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury.
A special note for parents: As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities and safety of your minor child, and that includes making sure that the bicycle is properly fitted to the child; that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned and understand the safe operation of the bicycle; and that you and your child have learned, understand and obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules
C. Mechanical Safety Check Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before every ride. Nuts, bolts screws & other fasteners: Because manufacturers use a wide variety of fastener sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials, often differing by model and component, the correct tightening force or torque cannot be generalized.
wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Skidding is an example of what can happen when a wheel locks up. If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice getting in and out of the pedals. See paragraph B.4 above and Section 4.E.4. If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with how the suspension responds to brake application and rider weight shifts. See paragraph B.6 above and Section 4.F. Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.D).
13. Don’t weave through traffic or make any moves that may surprise people with whom you are sharing the road. 14. Observe and yield the right of way. 15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. 16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk of accident. C.
not obstruct a reflector or light. • Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and securely mounted reflectors. While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night: • Ride slowly. • Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving traffic. • Avoid road hazards. • If possible, ride on familiar routes. If riding in traffic: • Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and predict your movements. • Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected.
1. Diamond frame bicycles Standover height is the basic element of bike fit (see ). It is the distance from the ground to the top of the bicycle’s frame at that point where your crotch is when straddling the bike. To check for correct standover height, straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is too big for you. Don’t even ride the bike around the block.
clamp can allow the saddle to move, causing you to lose control and fall. Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall. Note: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat post, the suspension mechanism may require periodic service or maintenance.
E. Brake reach Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you have small hands or find it difficult to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit shorter reach brake levers. WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the more critical it is to have correctly adjusted brakes, so that full braking power can be applied within available brake lever travel.
Your bicycle may be equipped with a different securing method for the front wheel than for the rear wheel. Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle with your dealer. It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method on your bicycle, that you know how to secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to apply the correct clamping force that safely secures the wheel.
to allow removing the wheel from the dropouts. If your front wheel uses a cam-and-cup system, (fig. 8b) squeeze the cup and cam lever together while removing the wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary with the cam-and-cup system. You may need to tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to release the wheel from the front fork. b.
stay or chain stay and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand. (9) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque specifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions. Here is the correct example of how the seat post clamp should be secured.
of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, which may result in serious injury or death. 3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (fig. 11) and linear-pull brakes (fig. 12), are extremely powerful. Take extra care in becoming familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them. 4.
D. Shifting gears Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (see 1. below), an internal gear hub drivetrain (see 2. below) or, in some special cases, a combination of the two. 1. How a derailleur drivetrain works If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will have: • a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster • a rear derailleur • usually a front derailleur • one or two shifters • one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings • a drive chain a.
• one front sprocket called a chainring • a drive chain a. Shifting internal gear hub gears Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear ratio. After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift. b. Which gear should I be in? The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills.
F. Bicycle Suspension Many bicycles are equipped with suspension systems. There are many different types of suspension systems — too many to deal with individually in this Manual. If your bicycle has a suspension system of any kind, be sure to read and follow the suspension manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the manufacturer.
2. Tire Valves There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The Schraeder Valve and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to the valve stems on your bicycle. The Schraeder valve (fig. 18a) is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and clamp the pump fitting onto the end of the valve stem.
• Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centerline of the bike; then do the same with the other pedal. Anything feel loose? If so, have your dealer check it. • Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look worn or not hitting the wheel rim squarely? Time to have the dealer adjust or replace them. • Carefully check the control cables and cable housings. Any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, have your dealer replace them.
High-Performance Road CONDITION 1 Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires do not lose ground contact. INTENDED To be ridden on paved roads only. NOT INTENDED For off-road, cyclocross, or touring with racks or panniers. TRADE OFF Material use is optimized to deliver both light weight and specific performance.
Talk to your retailer about your needs and these models. NOT INTENDED For use in extreme forms of jumping/riding such as hardcore mountain, Freeriding, Downhill, North Shore, Dirt Jumping, Hucking etc. No large drop offs, jumps or launches (wooden structures, dirt embankments) requiring long suspension travel or heavy duty components; and no spending time in the air landing hard and hammering through obstacles.
Cyclo-cross Choose terrain with the abilities of both the Tandem’s captain and stoker in mind. CONDITION 2 Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel roads and improved trails with moderate grades where the tires do not lose ground contact. INTENDED For cyclo-cross riding, training and racing. Cyclo-cross involves riding on a variety of terrain and surfaces including dirt or mud surfaces. Cyclo-cross bikes also work well for all weather rough road riding and commuting.
Appendix B The lifespan of your bike and its components 1. Nothing Lasts Forever, Including Your Bike. When the useful life of your bike or its components is over, continued use is hazardous. Every bicycle and its component parts have a finite, limited useful life.
in bent, buckled or folded metal. It is now common for the main frame to be made of metal and the fork of carbon fiber. See Section B, Understanding composites below. The relative ductility of metals and the lack of ductility of carbon fiber means that in a crash scenario you can expect some bending or bucking in the metal but none in the carbon. Below some load the carbon fork may be intact even though the frame is damaged. Above some load the carbon fork will be completely broken.
WARNING: Do not ride a bicycle or component with any crack, bulge or dent, even a small one. Riding a cracked frame, fork or component could lead to complete failure, with risk of serious injury or death. B. Understanding composites All riders must understand a fundamental reality of composites. Composite materials constructed of carbon fibers are strong and light, but when crashed or overloaded, carbon fibers do not bend, they break.
likely it is that lighter components may be suitable for you. Discuss your needs and your profile very honestly with your dealer. Take these choices seriously and understand that you are responsible for the changes. A useful slogan to discuss with your dealer if you contemplate changing components is “Strong, Light, Cheap –pick two.” Original Equipment components Bicycle and component manufacturers tests the fatigue life of the components that are original equipment on your bike.
Appendix D Fastener Torque Specifications Correct tightening torque of threaded fasteners is very important to your safety. Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. In case of a conflict between the instructions in this manual and information provided by a component manufacturer, consult with your dealer or the manufacturer’s customer service representative for clarification. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue.
Appendix E Appendix F Ticino Handlebar Brake Lever Installation and Setup Applies to Ticino 20D, 18D, 16D, 8D, LUX CAUTION! PLEASE READ CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE RIDING When setting up the bar-end brake levers on the Ticino models identifed above, ensure that the levers are positioned almost straight down under the handlebar grip. The upward angle of the brake lever is not to exceed 10 degrees from straight down position. Do NOT position like conventional brake levers.
Appendix G 54
