Specifications

If you’re going to use it, insert the screw terminal block on the board, making sure that the
open side is facing outwards (to the right). Turn the board over and solder the pins to the pads.
Get out your lighted magnifier and carefully inspect all of the solder joints. Make sure that
there are no solder bridges, particularly on the processor and the “0805” sized parts. If
something doesn’t look 100% right, resolder it, removing it first if you have to.
Preliminary Testing
At this point you have soldered everything except the receiver module… time for some
preliminary testing. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP! Once you mount the receiver module, you
will have a very difficult time getting to the components if something doesn’t work.
Loosen the screws on the terminal block, and connect your battery “pigtail” to the leads
marked IN. If you’re not using the terminal block, solder your battery pigtails to the pads
marked IN. Make sure that the “+” lead (generally RED) goes to the “+” terminal on the
terminal block, and the “-“ lead (generally BLACK) goes to the “-“ terminal. If you are not
100% sure of the colors and polarity of your battery pigtail, check them with a digital voltmeter
and your battery BEFORE you connect it. Tighten the screws (if you used the terminal block).
Connect your battery to the pigtail. You should hear a loud beep lasting for about 2 seconds,
then it should stop. If you wait another 15 seconds, you should hear a very short beep. This
means that the processor, power supply, and buzzer are all working, and you can go on from
here.
If you do NOT get a beep, then you have a solder bridge, short, or forgot a solder joint, or you
installed a part backwards. Go back and carefully inspect every joint and confirm that the parts
are all installed correctly.
Mounting the Receiver Module
The PT2272 receiver module comes with a right-angle header pre-soldered to it. If we were
going to mount it at a right angle to the board this would be ideal, however we’re not so we
need to get rid of the header. This isn’t nearly as hard as it sounds, but you do need to be
careful when you heat up the solder joints that you don’t overheat the pads and lift them off the
board, or underheat them and accidentally pull them off.
__ With a pair of small diagonal cutters, carefully clip the plastic header carrier between
each pin. Inspect the cuts carefully with a magnifier to make sure that the cuts go clear
through, otherwise it will be difficult to remove the pins in the next step.
__ Turn the board over so that the header pins are facing downward, and heat up one of the
header pins from the bottom. When the solder melts, gently push the pin through the hole
with the tip of your soldering iron while keeping the solder molten. If you clipped the plastic