Eggtimer Remote Switch Assembly and Users Manual Rev A3 © 2015 Eggtimer Rocketry All Rights Reserved
California Proposition 65 Warning WARNING: This product contains chemicals (lead) known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or reproductive harm. This kit includes a special low-temperature ultra-fine leaded solder wire. Including the solder with the kit ensures that you will have solder that can be used to mount the surface-mount parts in the kit.
Important Regulatory Information This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation. It is intended to be used ONLY for educational and experimental use in Class II/III amateur High Power Rockets which are classified as aircraft by the Federal Aircraft Administration (CFR 14 §101.
FAA Regulations for Amateur Rocketry (Part 101) http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/textidx?c=ecfr&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:2.0.1.3.15&idno=14 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Before You Start… • Go to our web site at www.Eggtimerrocketry.com and download the latest Release Notes. • Go to our web site at www.Eggtimerrocketry.com and download the latest Assembly/Users Guide..
About Soldering Your Remote Switch… Assembling your Remote Switch kit isn’t that hard, but we recommend that you don’t choose it as your first kit project. You must be able to solder small components using fine solder and get nice shiny solder joints. If you have never soldered before, you need to learn anyway, because if you are going to do rocketry electronics you’re going to be doing some soldering.
General Assembly Information We’re sure that you are ready to get started, but before you do you will need to get some tools together.
Assembling your Remote Switch Step 1: Sort the Components Before you start soldering anything, you need to lay everything out and make sure that you are familiar with all of components, and that you have everything. If you are missing something, let us know immediately so we can send you whatever you need.
Note that some of the components are static sensitive, so you should avoid sources of static electricity while you are handling them. We recommend that you assemble the Remote Switch on a wood or metal surface unless you are fortunate enough to have a high-temperature antistatic mat (don’t buy one just to build the Remote Switch, however!) Avoid putting it on plastic surfaces that generate static, and preferably put it together in a room that’s not carpeted.
Eggtimer Remote Switch Assembly Checklist Before you solder anything, make absolutely sure that you have the correct part and that it is inserted in the board correctly. The board has all of the component values, outlines, and polarities silk-screened on the top, so there shouldn’t be any doubt about what goes where and how. Nevertheless, if you have any questions about the assembly procedure, do not hesitate to drop us a line at support@eggtimerrocketry.com before you solder the parts to the board.
solder the other pad, being careful not to use too much heat (or you’ll lift the part off the board!). __ Mount the 5.0V Voltage Regulator Locate the large pad and the three small pads for the voltage regulator. Heat up the pad with your soldering iron and melt a small amount of solder on the large pad, just enough to cover it. Place the voltage regulator IC in place, and hold it down, then heat up the large pad on the voltage regulator until the solder starts to flow.
Locate the 2.2K resistor (marked “222”) just below to the left of the processor. Solder it in place, using the same procedure that you used for the .1 uF capacitor. __ Mount the 4.7K resistor Locate the 4.7K resistor (marked “472”) below and to the right of the processor. Solder it in place, using the same procedure that you used for the .1 uF capacitor. __ Mount the 10 uF capacitors Locate the two 10 uF capacitors, one just above and one just below the voltage regulator.
If you’re going to use it, insert the screw terminal block on the board, making sure that the open side is facing outwards (to the right). Turn the board over and solder the pins to the pads. Get out your lighted magnifier and carefully inspect all of the solder joints. Make sure that there are no solder bridges, particularly on the processor and the “0805” sized parts. If something doesn’t look 100% right, resolder it, removing it first if you have to.
header carrier all the way through, the pin should simply fall out of the hole as you melt the solder. You may have to wiggle the board a bit to get it to fall out. If it doesn’t check the cut on your carrier again. __ Similarly, remove the other header pins. __ With some solder wick, clean up the holes so that you can see through them. They don’t have to be completely clear because the wire you’re going to be soldering through them is much smaller than the hole, but make sure they’re not blocked.
this lets you know that it’s in programming mode. Press A B C D A B C D, you should then hear three beeps again to let you know that the code “took”. __ Wait about 10 seconds, then press A B C D A B C D. You should hear three beeps, then the red “ON” LED should come on. This confirms that the switch is working. Wait about 10 seconds, then press A B C D A B C D again. You should hear TWO beeps to let you know that it’s turning off, and the red “ON” LED should turn off.
Using Your Remote Switch Mounting the Remote Switch in Your AV Bay The Remote Switch has two #4 holes for mounting in a AV bay sled. It’s about 2.5” x .9”, so you’ll need to make sure that you have enough room on your sled for it. It doesn’t matter which way you mount it, as long as it’s mounted so the circuit-side is facing outwards.
You will be hooking up your electronics to the OUT side of the Remote Swtich. The Remote Switch basically replaces the battery input on your altimeter, which is why you want to be using the same battery that you’d be using for your altimeter. Connect the “+” side of the OUT terminal to the “+” battery input on your altimeter, and the “-“ side of the OUT terminal to the “-“ battery input on your altimeter.
Now we’re going to confirm that the code that was saved was the same code that you entered. Wait about 10 seconds, then press the “A” button 8 times. There should be a short pause, then you should hear the buzzer beep out a count 8 times. This tells you what the programmed code is… 1 count = A, 2 counts = B, 3 counts = C, 4 counts = D.
Troubleshooting If your Eggtimer Remote Switch doesn’t work after assembly and testing, take a deep breath, get out a beverage to clear you mind, and start troubleshooting… Check Your Solder Joints The very first thing you should do is to check out all of the solder joints under a lighted magnifier, or with a 10x jeweler’s loupe or magnifier. The most common reason for things not working are solder bridges, i.e. putting too much solder on the pads and shorting two adjacent pads together.
stress enough that you need to check the orientation of the parts before you solder them. The Eggtimer Remote Switch Limited Warranty does not cover damage to a component while attempting to unsolder it, so make take your time and make sure you get it right before you solder. If It Still Doesn’t Work… There is, of course, always an outside chance that you have a bad component.
Troubleshooting Tips (in approximate order of likelihood) No power-on beep and/or no receiver module power LED • Battery cable connected incorrectly (Match “+” and “-“ on the INPUT side with your battery connector) • Bad solder joint on voltage regulator • Bad solder joint on 10 uF capacitors • Bad solder joint on the processor • Buzzer mounted backwards (long lead needs to be on the “+” side) BTN Light doesn’t flash when I press a button on the remote • Bad solder joint on the 2.
Eggtimer Remote Switch Quick Reference Guide To Turn ON: Enter the programmed code, buzzer will beep 3 times To Turn OFF: Enter the programmed code, buzzer will beep 2 times To Program: Enter Eight D’s right after power-up, then enter an 8-button code To Verify the Code: Enter Eight A’s, it will beep out the code as follows: 1 beep = A 2 beeps = B 3 beeps = C 4 beeps = D Idle Chirps: 1 Chirp: Switch is “OFF” 3 Chirps: Switch is “ON” Specifications: Input: 6V-20V Output: Same as input, 2.8A max.
Extending the Range with an External Antenna The PT2272 RF module has a built-in PC loop antenna with a range of around 30’. For most purposes, this range works just fine; you’ll probably stop hearing the buzzer before you run out of range. However, if you’re using it in a carbon fiber (CF) rocket, you may not get the range you want, since CF is conductive and attenuates radio signals. If you find that you can’t get it to work inside your CF AV bay, you may want to install an additional antenna.
Eggtimer Remote Switch Limited Warranty Eggtimer Rocketry warrants that all of the parts listed in the parts list necessary to build the Eggtimer Remote Switch are included in the kit, and that they are all new and working. We don’t use surplus parts… we like stuff that we know will work. If you open up the package and find that something is missing, send us an email to support@eggtimerrocketry.com letting us know, and we’ll get it taken care of right away.
