™ ™ •Hand-launch sailplane for thermal or slope flying •Flat wing with ailerons for ultimate maneuverability •Rugged, lightweight balsa/ply construction •Optional V-tail version READ THROUGH THE PRELIMINARY INFORMATION BEFORE YOU START BUILDING. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS, WARNINGS, AND INFORMATION CONCERNING THE BUILDING AND USE OF THIS MODEL. Instruction Manual WARRANTY Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
relatively thin airfoil, the Talon is quite maneuverable and penetrates well, so it is at home either on the slopes or the breezy planes. The unique fuselage construction yields an interesting triangular cross section that builds rapidly and is pleasing to look at. This instruction manual also shows you how to build both the conventional straight-tail version or the V-tail version. We hope you enjoy building and flying your Dynaflite Talon! TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ...................................
Academy of Model Aeronautics 5151 East Memorial Drive Muncie, IN 47302-9252 Tele. (800) 435-9262 Fax (765) 741-0057 Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.
Here’s a complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper: 5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169) 11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170) 22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172) 33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174) 44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176) 11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190) 12' roll of Adhesive-backed 80-grit sandpaper (GPMR6180) 150-grit (GPMR6183) 220-grit (GPMR6185) Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189) REQUIRED BUILDING SUPPLIES AND TOOLS These are the building tools and supplies that you will need to build your Talon.
❏ 4. Accurately position the fuse bottom over its location on the plan and pin it down only between formers 2 and 3. Raise the front of the fuse 1/2" and the rear of the fuse 3/4" using the 1/2" x 3/4" x 2" balsa block cut into two pieces. BUILD THE FUSELAGE JOIN THE UPPER FUSELAGE SIDES ❏ 1. Unroll the plan sheet. Tightly roll it the other way so it will lie flat. ❏ 5. Use a ballpoint pen to label the die-cut 1/8" plywood formers and dihedral brace (DB) as indicated in the photo.
sides of the formers are on the left side of the fuse, glue the formers to the fuse bottom with thin CA. As you proceed, use a small building square to keep the formers perpendicular to your building board. ❏ 9. Position one of the die-cut 3/16" balsa upper fuse sides over the side view of the fuse plan, aligning the front where indicated on the plan. Mark the location of formers 2 and 3 on the fuse side with a straightedge and a ballpoint pen. This is now the left fuse side. ❏ 13.
❏ ❏ 6. Glue the 1/8" x 1-1/4" x 30" balsa fuse top to the fuse with medium or thick CA. The aft edge of the fuse top should extend 1/2" aft of former 6. 18. Position the tail block between the upper fuse sides 4" aft of former 6. Make sure the notch in the tail block is on the left side and glue it in place. ❏ 7. Use a hemostat or small needle nose pliers to remove the T-pins from the fuse bottom that are holding it to your building board.
❏ 2. Use a razor saw to cut the aft end of the hatch along the lines you previously marked. Cut the front of the hatch at an angle 11" from the aft end of the hatch. ❏ 11. Cut the front of the fuse until the 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" hardwood nose block will fit. Glue the nose block to the fuse, then carve and sand it to the shape shown on the plan. Note that the grain direction of the nose block runs parallel with the length of the fuse. ❏ 12.
❏ 4. Use steel wool, sandpaper or a wire brush to BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES remove corrosion and clean the solder joint holding the horn to pre-bent stab joiner wire. If necessary, use a small file to true up the solder joint so both brass bushings can slide up close to the horn. MAKE THE STAB MOUNT ❏ 1. From the 1/8" x 3/4" x 8" balsa stick, cut two 4" long stab mounts. ❏ 5.Test fit the joiner wire between the stab mounts.
❏ ❏ 3. Note the location of the arm portion of the joiner wire. This determines the true location of the 1/8" x 1/8" balsa rib—not necessarily where it is shown on the plan. (You can see in the photo how the rib on our model needed to be moved inward a bit). Cut the rib from a 1/8" x 1/8" x 24" balsa stick and pin it to the plan so it is contacting the arm of the joiner wire. 1/16" x 1/4" Stab Spars Trim 1/8" Notch 1/8" x 1/8" Rib Caps ❏ ❏ 7.
❏ 4. Glue the balsa stab mounts together with the joiner wire in between. Make sure you have the joiner wire facing the right way and make sure you glue the bearing tubes to the mounts, but refrain from getting glue inside the bearing tubes. ❏ 9. If you’re building the conventional straighttail, build the fin using the 1/8" x 1/8" balsa sticks and the 1/8" x 1/4" balsa sticks leftover from building the stab halves. Use leftover 1/8" balsa to make the tip of the fin. ❏ 5.
❏ 7. Remove the stab halves from the joiner wire. desired thickness of the trailing edge of the aileron. As shown in the photo, the guideline can be most easily drawn by laying your pen and the aileron on your workbench. You may have to raise the aileron off your workbench to make the guideline at the correct height. With the pen we used, it happened that one of the included 1/16" balsa sheets worked perfectly for this.
1 2 7 4 8 5 ❏ ❏ 11. Place the 1/8" x 3/8" x 24" balsa sub trailing edge (TE) up against the ribs over its location on the plan. Pin a straightedge to the plan tightly up against the subTE to hold it in position.Trim any ribs as necessary to make sure the sub TE will remain straight. 3 9 6 ❏ ❏ 8. Label both sets of die-cut 3/32" wing ribs as shown in the sketch and carefully remove them from their die sheets. If any of the ribs are difficult to remove, cut around them first.
❏ ❏ 19. Glue a die-cut 3/32" balsa gusset to both sides of rib 2 and the sub trailing edge. Glue an additional gusset to rib 9 and the sub trailing edge. This gusset is not shown on the plan and you’ll have to trim it to fit. ❏ ❏ 20. Sheet the top of the center section using the same 1/16" x 3" balsa sheet you used for the shear webs and the bottom center section. ❏ ❏ 16. One rib at a time, simultaneously lift up ❏ ❏ 21.
wing with masking tape until the glue dries (about an hour should be sufficient). ❏ ❏ 4. Use your razor plane followed by a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to blend the LE to the top and bottom skins. Do not round the LE until you are instructed to do so after you join the two halves together. ❏ ❏ 7. Test fit the pre-bent wire right aileron torque rod (or the left aileron torque rod if this is your second time through and you are building the left wing panel) in the torque rod block.
❏ ❏ 15. If necessary, shape the TE of the wing tip between the tips of the aileron and the wing. We recommend a 1/16" gap at both ends. and the top of the sub trailing edge to match the aileron. ❏ ❏ 16. Remove the aileron from the wing. Use a razor plane or a hobby knife followed by a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to shape the leading edge of the aileron to a “V” to allow for control movement. ❏ ❏ 17. Temporarily join the aileron to the wing.
❏ 3.Test join your wing halves with your homemade wing joiner. Use your bar sander to sand the ends of the wing as necessary so they will fit at the correct angle. 1/8" Notch ❏ 4. Use a piece of wire or something similar to thoroughly apply 30-minute epoxy to the spars inside one wing half and to the top and bottom edges of one half of the wing joiner. Slide the joiner into the wing between the spars. Be certain the joiner is centered between the spars.
❏ 6. After the epoxy from the previous step has CA but we prefer 30-minute epoxy. Whatever adhesive you use, just make sure the cloth is thoroughly saturated and is securely bonded to the sheeting. fully cured, remove the wing. Glue the dowel to the bottom of the wing with more epoxy. MOUNT THE WING TO THE FUSE 5/8" Aileron Torque Rod ❏ 7. Similar to the way you did the trailing edge ❏ 1. Cut both aileron torque rods to a length of 5/8".
❏ 15. Cut a small, round hole in the fuse bottom to countersink the head of the nylon wing bolt. Hint: Use a 13/32" brass tube sharpened at one end to cut the hole. ❏ 10. Securely glue the bottom wing bolt block to the aft edge of former 2 and the bottom of the fuse. Enlarge the hole in the bottom wing bolt block and drill through the bottom of the fuse with a #12 (or 3/16") drill bit. MOUNT THE HATCH ❏ 11. Tap threads into the top wing bolt block with a 10-24 tap. Coat the threads with thin CA.
MOUNT THE STAB AND FIN TO THE FUSE FINAL CONSTRUCTION These following instructions apply to you V-tail builders, too. MOUNT THE SERVOS ❏ 1. Temporarily position the stab mount on the fuse with both stab halves. With the wing bolted to the fuse, view the model from the rear to make sure the stab aligns horizontally with the wing (it’ll be a little trickier to see the V-tail stab alignment with the wing, but it’s the same idea).
Regular iron-on films intended for larger models may shrink too much, damaging or warping your structure. servo horn to your elevator servo and secure it with the screw. ❏ 5. Position your elevator servo in the fuselage. Make servo holders for the elevator servo as shown on the plan from leftover 1/8" x 1/8" balsa and glue them to the fuse bottom.
TEMPORARY PIN TO KEEP HINGE CENTERED ❏ ❏ 2. Join the aileron to the wing with the hinges. If you cannot get the hinges to remain centered, stick a pin through the center of the hinges and rejoin the aileron to the wing. Remove the pins after you join the aileron to the wing. ❏ 3. Lift your Talon at the balance point (or place it on a Great Planes C.G. Machine™). If the nose drops, the model is nose heavy. Instead of adding weight, shift the receiver and battery pack aft to achieve the correct C.G.
AT THE FLYING SITE SET THE CONTROL THROWS RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO Set your control throws as follows: Ailerons: High Rate Low Rate 1/2” up 3/8” down 3/8” up 1/4” down Elevator: 3/4” up/down Check the operational range of the radio before the first flight. Before you turn your radio on, the first thing you always must do is make sure no one else is on your frequency (channel). Most model flying fields utilize frequency control so familiarize yourself with their system.
according to the instructions in this manual. After your model is C.G.’d correctly and ready to fly, take it out to your flying field. Turn your transmitter and receiver on and toss your Talon at a level attitude straight into the wind. Try to keep it on a straight glide path with the wings level as it descends to the ground.
