INSTRUCTION MANUAL s PIECE 7ING FOR %ASY 4RANSPORTATION s 3LOW AND &ORGIVING &LIGHT #HARACTERISTICS s 3IMPLE AND &AST !SSEMBLY WARRANTY Great Planes® guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Table of Contents Align The Stab & Fin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Align The Stab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Align The Fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Covering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Prepare For Covering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Covering Sequence. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Covering Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Join The Tail Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong. Protect Your Model, Yourself and Others... Follow This Important Safety Precaution 3. You must install all R/C and other components so that the model operates properly on the ground and in the air. Your Butterfly is not a toy, but a sophisticated working model that functions like a full-size airplane.
❍ O.S.® 10LA (OSMG0011) or O.S. 15LA (OSMG0016) Required Supplies and Tools These are the building tools and adhesives that you will need to build your Butterfly. ❍ Engine Mount (Hayes 006-AS15 short mount for O.S. LA engines) HAYG0006 We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy ❍ Propellers; Refer to your engine’s instructions for proper size ❍ 2 oz. Thin CA Adhesive - (GPMR6003) ❍ Approximately 2 rolls Top Flite MonoKote® covering; See Covering Tips (page 31) ❍ 2 oz.
❍ 6-Minute Pro™ Epoxy (GPMR6045) 12’ Roll of adhesive-backed sandpaper, ❍ Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200) 80-grit (GPMR6180) 150-grit (GPMR6183) 220-grit (GPMR6185) ™ ❍ Heat Gun (TOPR2000) ❍ Straightedge (Fourmost Non-Slip, FORR2149) Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189) ❍ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (for epoxy clean-up) Building Notes ❍ Spare Glow Plugs (O.S.
other conditions that require one or the other types of CA. For the Butterfly all you really need is thin and medium CA. Types Of Wood Balsa Basswood CA Accelerator is a chemical that you can spray over uncured CA to make it cure immediately. A mist spray of accelerator will do the job. Do not inhale the vapors! Some modelers “preprime” the parts to be glued with accelerator, join them, then add the CA. This way the CA is guaranteed to cure immediately.
❏ 2. The TE, then the bottom from a 1/4" x 1/2" x 12" balsa stick. accurately cut small balsa sticks (such as the ones used in the tail surfaces) with a single-edge razor blade rather than a hobby knife. ❏ 3. The “balance tab” part of the rudder and the tip from the remainder of the 1/4" x 1/4" balsa stick you used for the fin and another 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick if needed. ❏ 2. Cut the fin leading edge from a 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick, then pin it over its location on the plan. ❏ 3.
Elevator Building Sequence Refer to this photo while you build the elevator. ❏ 1. The LEs as shown on the plan, cut from a 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" balsa stick. Use a hobby knife to cut the “notches” for the 3/16" elevator joiner dowel. Pin the LEs to the plan. A note about sanding “built-up” tail surfaces Be careful when you sand a balsa structure made up of “sticks.
❏ 6. Test join (remember, this means no glue) the elevator to the stab and the rudder to the fin with the hinges. Adjust the width of the hinge slots if necessary. ❏ 3. Lay the stabilizer on your building table. Use thin card stock or business cards to raise the stab so you can mark the hinge slots in the center of the TE at the hinge locations. Mark the hinge slots in the TE of the fin the same way. ❏ 4.
❏ ❏ 4. Position rib W-3 on the bottom spar and pin it to the building board over its location on the plan. Position the six W-4s of the inner wing panel on the spar and pin them to the building board as well. Note: Substitute the third W-4 rib in from the tip with a W-3. ❏ ❏ 5. Position a 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 21" 90º tapered balsa inner TE over its location on the plan so the tip aligns with the Bottom centerline at the laminated W-4s on the plan.
❏ ❏ 7. Remove the T-pins in rib W-3. Use a 90degree triangle to hold W-3 perpendicular to the building board, then glue it to the spar, LE and TE with medium or thin CA. Glue the W-4s to the spar, LE and TE the same way. ❏ ❏ 8. Use the die-cut 1/8" plywood wing center gauge to accurately mark where the balsa W-1 contacts the LE so you know where to position W-1 after the bottom sheeting is glued in place. Mark the TE the same way. ❏ ❏ 10.
❏ ❏ 17. Make two gussets from the 3/16" x 3/4" x 12" balsa sheet, then glue them in position. If you have one, use a small building triangle to accurately cut the gussets. Note the grain direction as shown in the photo. ❏ ❏ 15. Slide the composite wing joiner tube into the holes of W-1, W-2 and W-3. The holes in the ribs are slightly oversize so you can accurately position the tube when you permanently glue it into the wing.
Note: Leave the leading edge at least 1/16" high in front of ribs W-1, 2 and 3 to accommodate the top sheeting. You will final sand the LE after you join the inner panels to the outer panels and glue the top sheeting in position. Area to Trim Off 3/4" TIP: How To Use A Razor Plane ❏ ❏ 1. Trim the end of a 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 30" tapered balsa outer trailing edge so it matches the angle at W-4 shown on the plan. Mark the tip end of the TE 3/4" away from the aft edge.
❏ ❏ 13. Remove the T-pins, then lift the panel from the plan. Use a razor saw to cut the ends of the spars, LE and TE so they extend past W-15 by approximately 1/32" to 1/16". Use your bar sander to sand the ends flush with W-15 and W-4. ❏ ❏ 6. Remove the T-pins from rib W-4. Use the wing tip panel gauge to set W-4 at the correct angle and glue it to the TE, bottom spar and LE. ❏ ❏ 7.
❏ ❏ 17. Carefully remove any glue blobs and blend all the ribs to the spars, TE and LE with a bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper. ❏ 3. Without any glue, temporarily join both inner wing panels with the joiner tubes and the joiner rod. Hold the wing halves together and inspect the fit between the W-1 ribs of the joining panels. If necessary, separate the panels and use your bar sander to adjust to the ends of the spars, LEs or TEs so the W-1s fit together well. ❏ 18.
❏ 10. Cut both of the TEs as shown on the plan. Cut the 1/8" x 4" hardwood dowel into two pieces, then test fit and glue the dowels to the TEs of both wing panels with medium CA. Use your bar sander to true the end of the dowels so they are flush with the ends of the wing. ❏ 7. Carefully lift the wing from your building board so you do not break the spot-glued joints, then place it on the leading edges. Mix a batch of 30-minute epoxy, then thoroughly glue the joiner tubes to the shear webs, spars and ribs.
1/16" Holes ❏ ❏ 13. Glue a piece of 1/8" leftover balsa to rib W-2 to support the turbulator spars. Trim the ends of the spars so they are even with the end of the panel at rib W-4. ❏ 14. Glue the turbulator spars in the left wing panel the same way. ❏ 15. Use a bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper on both inner wing panels to carefully remove any glue blobs and blend all the ribs to the spars, TE and LE. ❏ ❏ 4.
Here are some tips that can make shaping your LEs a little easier and faster: ❏ ❏ 6. After the epoxy has fully cured, carefully prop the wing up on its leading edge, then apply 30-minute epoxy to the wing joiner wires to securely glue them to the shear webs and spars. Use T-pins if necessary to hold the joiner wires against the spars. Do not disturb the wing until the epoxy cures. ❏ 7. Return to step 2 and join the panels of the other wing half the same way. A.
covered with wax paper to make sure the pieces align. Use a bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper to sand the two sides so they are flat and even. Build the Fuselage Prepare the Fuse Sides All the parts used during fuselage construction are die-cut 1/8" plywood unless otherwise specified. ❏ 1. Carefully remove the forward and aft fuselage sides from their die sheets, then remove slivers or die-cutting irregularities with a bar sander. ❏ 5.
❏ 12. Glue F-5 to F-4 with epoxy so the edges of F-5 align with the lines on the back of F-4 and the top edges of F-4 and F-5 are even. From now on this assembly will be referred to as the “firewall.” Make certain that the “F-4” and “F-5” designations you marked are in the same orientation. If the parts are slightly warped, clamp them to a flat table or board with wax paper between the board and the parts. Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures. ❏ 9.
down over the top view of the fuselage plan. Make sure the fuselage sides fully contact your flat building table and the formers and sides align with the plan. Adjust the notches in the left fuse side if necessary, then use medium CA to glue the left side to the formers. ❏ 14. Insert 4-40 blind nuts into the holes from the back of the firewall, then lightly tap them all the way in with a hammer. Apply medium CA around the edges of the blind nuts to permanently secure them. ❏ 15.
❏ 6. Remove as many T-pins as possible, then carefully lift the fuselage off your building board and remove the remaining T-pins. Sheet the Fuse Bottom ❏ 7. Sand the ply and balsa fuselage bottom even with the fuse sides. ❏ 8. Use a metal file or a powered hand tool with a cut-off wheel to remove any burrs and chamfer the ends of both 5/32" landing gear wires. ❏ 9. Fit one of the landing gear wires through the hole in the right fuselage side and hold it in position as shown on the plan.
❏ 2. Cut two 36" outer pushrod guide tubes to a length of 24". Use 150-grit sandpaper to carefully (so you do not snap them in two) roughen the outside of the tubes so glue will stick to them. Save the remaining 12" from one of the tubes for the throttle pushrod guide tube. ❏ 5. Position the guide tubes so approximately 1/2" protrudes from the slots at the rear of the fuselage.
❏ 11. Cut the cross-grain aft top fuselage sheeting from the 1/16" x 2" x 24" balsa sheet and the remainder of the 1/16" balsa sheet you used for the bottom of the fuse. Position and glue (with medium CA) the individual planks between F-7 and the marks you just made. ❏ 16. See the information about fuel tanks that follows, then test fit a 4 oz. fuel tank in the fuselage.
B. Generally, all sport models require only two fuel lines: one that goes to the top of the tank for pressure or a vent and another for fuel pickup. Some models use a third line for a fuel filler valve but this is not required on your Butterfly. To fill the tank, simply disconnect the pick-up line from the carburetor and fill through it. When the tank is full fuel will flow through the vent line that is connected to your muffler (disconnect the line from the muffler while fueling). ❏ 19.
photo (not on the plan). The one-arm servo horns shown in the photo are cut from six-arm servo horns. The throttle servo arm has been shortened by “cutting off the outer hole.” Drill 1/16" holes in the servo rails, then mount the servos to the rails with the screws included with your servos. ❏ 5. Optional: Drill or cut a hole in the back of the fuselage and install a pushrod guide tube (not included) to serve as an antenna guide. The front of the tube should extend approximately 1" in front of the servos.
❏ 3. Accurately mark the center of the fuselage top where the LE of the stab contacts the top sheeting. Position the stab on the fuselage and align the centerline you marked on the stab with the mark on the fuse top. Pin only the LE of the stab to the fuse. stab. This line indicates where you should apply the covering “up to” and apply glue when it is time to glue the stab to the fuse. Align the Fin ❏ 4.
scratches and imperfect glue joints that may show through the covering with HobbyLite filler. ❏ 4. Use medium CA to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood tail skid and balsa triangle reinforcements to the bottom of the fuselage or glue the skid in position after you cover the fuselage. ❏ 5. Test fit the wing in the fuselage and adjust the front and rear “windows” if necessary so the wing will fit between them. ❏ 5.
base color. Try just a single color base (usually a lighter color such as white or yellow) with perhaps a single stripe, your AMA number or some stick-on graphics. A simple trim scheme will get you in the air faster and look much better (not to mention give you fewer headaches) than a model that was difficult to cover because of a complicated trim scheme. Never cut the covering after you iron it to the wood except near the tips.
the fin reinforcement onto the covering, then take the covering off the stab and cut out that portion of the covering. This will allow you to glue the fin reinforcements directly to the bare wood and avoid cutting the covering directly on the wood after you iron it down. You can clean residual ink from the covering with a cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol. ❏ 8. Iron the piece of covering you just “custom cut” to the top of the stab, then cover the other side the same way. ❏ 5.
Join the Tail Surfaces Join the Stab, Fin and Fuse ❏ 1. Apply a film of 30-minute epoxy to the stab and fuselage where they contact each other, then position the stab on the fuselage. Use the techniques described earlier (in Align The Stab) to confirm that the stab is aligned with the fuselage, then use T-pins, weights or clamps to hold the stab to the fuse until the epoxy fully cures. Use a cloth dampened with alcohol to wipe away excess epoxy before it cures. ❏ 2. Glue the fin to the stab and fuse.
done with a high-speed tool such as a powered hand tool. If you use a drill, remove slivers of balsa wood from the hinge slots with a hobby knife after you drill the holes. Temporary pin to keep hinge centered ❏ 4. Use a MonoKote Iron or a Trim Seal Tool to seal the perimeter of the reinforcements onto the fin and stab. ❏ 5.
Fuelproofing Fuelproof areas that will be exposed to raw fuel or exhaust residue. These include the firewall, the entire fuel tank compartment, the underside of the hatch and inside the fuselage around the wing saddle area (the insides of the “windows” and cabin sides). Use 30-minute epoxy (you may thin the epoxy with alcohol so it is easier to brush on) or fuelproof model airplane paint. Final Hook-ups & Checks Connect the Servos ❏ ❏ 3.
1/16" FasLink 2-56 (.074") Pushrod Wire Servo Horn ❏ ❏ 9. Glue the forward pushrod guide tube support to F-7, then glue the pushrod guide tubes to the support with medium or thin CA. ❏ 10. Install the engine mount on the firewall. Attach the engine to the mount. ❏ 11. Sand the 12" outer throttle guide tube so glue will stick. Insert the tube through the holes in the firewall and F-6. Cut a 36" rod (threaded one-end) to a length of 17" including the threaded end.
❏ 14. Install the fuel tank and connect the fuel tubes. ❏ 15. Install the fuel tank hatch with the #2 x 3/8" screws. The hatch should secure the tank, but if necessary, place extra foam around the fuel tank so it cannot shift during flight. ❏ 3. Cut the die-cut 1/8" plywood top landing gear plate in half, then mark the location where the landing gear wire contacts both plates. Use a hobby knife or a powered hand tool to cut a notch in both plates to clear the landing gear. Mount the Landing Gear ❏ 1.
hook from an unused servo arm as shown in the sketch. Never shorten the antenna wire. Mount the Wing ❏ 1. Apply 1/16" thick Great Planes Single-Sided Foam Tape (GPMQ4422) to the wing saddle of the fuselage. ❏ 2. Poke a hole through the covering where you drilled the 1/16" holes in the bottom spar of both wing halves for the #2 x 3/8" screws. Pack the holes with 6-minute epoxy, then immediately install the screws. ❏ 1.
battery pack aft. If possible arrange the battery pack and receiver to achieve balance but make sure they remain secure in the fuselage so they cannot shift during flight or a rough landing. If you must add additional weight to the nose or tail of the Butterfly to achieve balance use Great Planes adhesive lead weights (GPMQ4485). An alternative to stick-on nose weight (if your model is tail heavy) is a Great Planes brass spinner nut (GPMQ4640). It has 1/4-28 threads so it will fit most engines.
Gather Your Tools Assemble a simple flight kit (a shoe box is fine to start with) which should include a 1-1/2 volt starting battery and glow plug clip (or ni-starter), a “chicken stick” for flipping the prop, fuel and fuel pump or other means of filling the tank, a couple of small screwdrivers, #64 rubber bands, spare props (balanced) and glow-plugs, a wrench for the propeller nut, a needle-nose plier or hemostats and some CA for field repairs.
field. Ask your hobby dealer or the AMA if there is a club in your area and join it (the address and telephone number for the AMA is listed on page 3 of this instruction book). Club fields exist to make your R/C flying safe and enjoyable. We recommend that you join the AMA and a local club so you may have a safe place to fly and insurance in case of a flying accident. runway or not. Just hand launch the Butterfly into the wind.
the engine is for gaining altitude to get your Butterfly high enough to let you fly it, react and learn how to correct mistakes and guide it through the air. Continue flying the “race track pattern” making adjustments to altitude, heading and speed. Flight Allow the Butterfly to climb as gently or steeply as required and you are comfortable with, then execute your first turn. Make a right or a left 180-degree turn (whichever direction will keep you from flying over head or over obstacles).
