TM TM • Simple Entry Level Construction • Stable Flight Characteristics • Excellent R/C Trainer READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL. Instruction Manual WARRANTY Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
The 72" version of the Wanderer was developed by Mark Smith as a first-time building and flying project. Since its introduction in 1975, over 85,000 kits have been produced. Over the years the Wanderer has been updated with many changes recommended to us by first-time builders. The Wanderer still has the same basic aerodynamics as the original kit, but has been simplified to make assembly quicker and easier. Introduction.......................................................2 Precautions...................
1. You must assemble the sailplane according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos or plan. In those instances the text should be taken as correct. REQUIRED ITEMS These are the items not included with your kit; you will need to purchase them separately.
SUGGESTED BUILDING SUPPLIES, CON'T. Hobby Knife (HCARO 105) #11 Blades Pliers (Common and Needle Nose) Screw driver (Phillips) T-pins(HCAQ5150) 60" Retractable Tape Measure (HCAR0478) Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from lightweight extruded aluminum and can be found at most hobby shops.
• Whenever the instructions tell you to glue pieces together, thin CA should be used. When a specific type of glue is required, the instructions will state the type of glue that is highly recommended. When 30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or slower) epoxy because you will need either the working time and/or the additional strength. Airfoil: A curved structure designed to create lift by the reaction to air moving over its surface. C.G.
Sailplane: An airplane which flies without an engine. Sailplanes are designed to ride on warm, rising air currents, called thermals. Sailplanes are launched by several methods: a giant sling shot called a high-start; a winch which pulls the sailplane up like a kite; or with the assistance of a small engine or electric motor. High-Start: A device used to launch a model glider like a slingshot.
Die-Cut Layout INNER PANEL GUSSETS OUTER PANEL GUSSETS NOTES ON REMOVAL OF DIE CUT PARTS FROM THE SHEET 1. Sand both sides of all die cut sheets enough to remove loose wood Fibers. 2. Bend each sheet slightly, along the direction of the grain, to identify the side that is not cut completely through. 3. Sand this side until most of the parts can be easily removed from the sheet. 4. If a part is difficult to remove, use a sharp hobby knife to cut any slivers of wood that are holding it in place.
1. Unroll the plan sheet. Roll the plans inside out to make them lie flat. Wax paper or Great Planes Plan Protector placed over the plan will prevent glue from sticking to the plan. LJ 6. From the remaining 3/16" x 15/16" balsa stick, cut and fit stabilizer center sections between the leading edges and trailing edge. Position the fin between the two center sections for the proper spacing. DO NOT glue the fin in position. Glue the center sections to the leading and trailing edge. Q 7.
Q 14. For a more secure fit, file or grind four or five notches in each arm of the elevator joiner wire. Thoroughly clean the joiner wire with isopropyi alcohol. Q 10. Drill 1/16" holes, 9/16" deep, in the leading edge of the elevators at the marked locations. Make sure the two holes are perpendicular to the leading edge. Be careful that the drill bit does not break through the sides of the elevators. Q 15.
Q 18. Sand the top and bottom of the stabilizer smooth. Sand a radius on the leading edge and tips of the stabilizer and the tips of the elevator using the stabilizer view as a guide. DRILL A 3/32" HOLE 1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER OF HINGE SLOT 1" Q 4. Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep, in the center of the hinge slot. Drilling the hole will twist some of the wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to insert the hinge.
NOTE: The control horn in the photo was painted for clarity (The control horns in the kit are made of while plastic). Ul 5. Sand a radius on the leading edge of the fin as shown on the cross section view. Q 7. Insert two 2-56 x 1/2" machine screws through the horn base and elevator. Place the nut plate on top of the elevator and thread the machine screw into the nut plate. Q 6. Mark and install the hinges following the same procedure used on the stabilizer and elevator.
Qi 5. Use thick CA to glue the fuselage doublers onto the fuselage sides, aligning the top and front edges. Make sure to glue the doublers to the sides with the right and left written on them. U 8. Pin the right fuselage side to the fuselage plan. Use a straightedge to draw vertical lines on the fuselage doubler and fuselage side at stations "B" through "E". Also mark the 1/8" x 1/4" balsa bottom cross brace, as shown on the plan. Q 9.
LJ 17. Place a leftover piece of 3/16" balsa over the fuselage top view in front of the tail post. With the fuselage sides inverted, align the sides with the fuselage top view. With the tail posts aligned and the sides of the fuselage perpendicular to the building table, glue the tail posts together. U 13. From the remaining 3/16" square balsa stick used on the stabilizer, cut two 1" long tail posts. Glue a tail post to the aft end of both fuselage sides.
Q 21. Test fit the two 1/4" x 1/2" x 2-1/4" basswood tow hook blocks in the notches of the plywood fuselage doubler. When you're satisfied with the fit/ glue the blocks to the fuselage sides and doubters with aliphatic resin or 6-minute epoxy. After the epoxy cures/ drill a 3/32" hole in the center of both blocks. [-] 24. From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 10" balsa stick, cut and glue the bottom cross brace between the fuselage sides, flush with the bottom edge.
Q 24. From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 10" balsa stick, cut and glue the bottom cross brace between the fuselage sides, flush with the bottom edge. Glue the 1/4" x 3/8" x 1" balsa end cap to the tail post, flush with the fuselage sides. a 21. Test fit the two 1/4" x 1/2" x 2-1/4" basswood tow hook blocks in the notches of the plywood fuselage doubler. When you're satisfied with the fit, glue the blocks to the fuselage sides and doublers with aliphatic resin or 6-minute epoxy.
Q 29. Glue the 3/32" x 3" x 15" balsa aft fuselage top from former F-4 to the front of the stabilizer base. Trim and sand the aft fuselage top flush with the fuselage sides. Q 4. Drill a 1/16" hole through the center of the 1/4" x 1/2" x 1-1/2" basswood hatch holddown block. Q 5. Glue the hatch hold-down block to the front of former F-3 and the underside of the sheet glued on in step 3. After the glue has cured, insert a T-pin, from the bottom, through the hole in the hatch holddown block and 3/32" sheet.
d 16. Sand the bottom of the fuselage, blending the 3/16" bottom forward sheeting into the 3/32" bottom aft sheeting. Use the cross sections shown on the plan as a guide to sand a radius on the corners. Be careful not to sand the corners too thin and weaken the structure. Sand a radius on the 1/4" end cap. Q 10. Make two 3/16" balsa hatch keys from leftover 3/16" square sticks. Wedge the hatch keys between the fuselage sides at the locations shown on the plan.
overhang the wing plan slightly. Also/ the 90° edge on the trailing edge goes against the building board. See the cross section on the left wing plan. Q Q 9. Pin the 1/4" x 3/8" x 10" basswood root spar in position. Q Q 10. Place the W-2 inboard and W-3 outboard ribs in position to check the alignment of the main and root spars. U U 6. Using a W-3 rib as a spacer/ pin the shaped 5/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa leading edge Q 11. Cut two center sheets 4-1/8" long from over the plan.
inboard end of the leading edge so that it butts against the root panel leading edge. Place the W-11 rib in position and pin the leading edge in place, but do not glue it to the root panel. Qi Q 15. Glue the two remaining W-1 ribs/ the three W-2 ribs and the five W-3 ribs in place/ perpendicular to the building board. 1" 1/8" Q Q 16. Glue one of the previously cut 4-1/8" long center sheets on top of the three W-1 ribs, butted against the leading edge.
U U 12. Use a razor saw and a sanding block to trim the spars and leading and trailing edges flush with the W-1 and W-11 ribs. Be careful to not remove any of the rib, changing its angle. Q Q 13. Glue the shaped 5/8" x 15/16" x 5-5/8" balsa wing tip to rib W-11. Note the wing tip cross section on the plan for the proper orientation. Q Q 7. Fit the remaining W-5 through W-11 ribs in place, perpendicular to the building board.
Ql Q 19. Use a sanding bar to carefully sand the top and bottom of the wing ribs, spars, center sheeting and leading and trailing edges flush. Do not alter the shape of the ribs while sanding. Q Q 20. Trim the four die-cut 3/32" x 1/2" x 1 /2" balsa gussets to fit on both sides of rib W-4 at the leading and trailing edge. When satisfied with the fit/ glue them in place. Q 4. Handle wing with care. The center section has little strength at this point. U 5.
1—1 1. Temporarily install the two 3-3/4" wing hold down dowels in the fuselage. Set the wing on the fuselage and secure it by hooking a couple of rubber bands (not included) over the forward dowel/ stretching the rubber bands over the wing and hooking them over the aft dowel. Set the stabilizer in the stabilizer saddle. Check the alignment of the stabilizer with the wing from the front and rear of the model.
end of the wing tip. While holding the wing leading edge and trailing edge at rib W-4 firmly against the flat surface, shrink the covering. This will put a slight twist in the wing called "washout." This washout will help prevent tip stalls when flying. After all the covering on the wing is shrunk, iron the covering to each wing rib. the fit, glue the fin to the stabilizer with 30-minute epoxy or aliphatic resin. Make sure the fin is 90° to the stabilizer.
leaving only a small portion of the hinge in the control surface. To avoid this, you may insert a small pin through the center of each hinge before installing. This pin will keep the hinge centered while you install the control surfaces. Q 8. Install the hinges in the elevator and attach the elevator to the stabilizer. LJ 3. Lay one of the threaded rods over the rudder pushrod on the fuselage top view. The pin in the clevis should be aligned with the hinge line of the rudder and fin.
Q 3. Place a spacer made from leftover 3/32" balsa sheet between the rudder and elevator servos. Mount the servos on the servo rails using the screws provided with the radio system. Remove the spacer after the servos are mounted. Wrap the receiver and receiver battery in foam rubber and place them in front of the servos. CUT LJ 9. Install the metal rods in each balsa pushrod. Wrap the ends of the pushrods with heavy-duty button thread and apply epoxy to hold the thread in position and add strength.
Q 7. Make a 90° bend 1 /4" from the end of both leftover metal rods. Insert the metal rods in the grooves of the balsa pushrods and use thread and epoxy to secure them using the same procedure as before. Q 8. Remove the clevises from the pushrods and insert them in the fuselage. Make sure the correct pushrod exits the correct slot at the aft end of the fuselage. Q 9. Reinstall the clevises to the pushrods and connect them to the control horns. Q 12.
We recommend the following control surface throws: Elevator: Rudder: 4-CHANNEL RADIO SET-UP 3/8" [9.5mm] up 1-1/2" [38mm] left 3/8"[9.5mm] down 1-1/2"[38mm] right (STANDARD MODE 2) Note: The balance and control throws for the Wanderer have been extensively tested. This chart indicates the settings at which the Wanderer flies best. Please set up your model to the specifications listed above.
Hint: Reference the full-size fuse plan to help you locate the proper balance point. This is the balance point at which your model should balance for your first flights. After initial trim flights and when you become more acquainted with your Wanderer, you may wish to experiment by shifting the balance up to 3/16" [5 mm] forward or backward to change its flying characteristics. Moving the balance forward may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model may become more difficult to slow for landing.
RANGE CHECK YOUR MODEL LANDING Whenever you go to the flying field, check the operational range of the radio before the first flight of the day. First, make sure no one else is on your frequency (channel). With your transmitter on and the antenna collapsed you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have control. While you work the controls, have a helper stand by your model and tell you what the control surfaces are doing.
