™ • QUICK BUILDING – IDEAL FOR FUN-SCALE COMPETITION • 64" WINGSPAN (IMAA Legal) • SMOOTH-FLYING BIPE – CAPABLE OF SCALE AEROBATICS READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL. Wingspan: 64 in [1625mm] Wing Area: 1440 sq in [93dm2] Weight: 12.0 - 13.5 lb [5440 - 6120g] Wing Loading: 19.2 - 21.3 oz/sq ft [59 - 65g/dm2] Fuselage Length: 53 in [1345mm] Engine: .61 - 1.20 cu in [10.0 - 19.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY ..................55 Check the Control Directions..................................55 Set the Control Throws ..........................................55 Balance the Model (C.G.)........................................56 Balance the Model Laterally ..................................57 PREFLIGHT ....................................................57 Identify Your Model ................................................57 Charge the Batteries...........................................
schemes and documentation that would be useful for finishing your model and getting to know more about the full-size S.E.5a. IMAA The Dynaflite S.E.5a is an excellent sport-scale model. Because it’s a biplane with a wingspan over 60", it is eligible to fly in IMAA events. The IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association) is an organization that promotes non-competitive flying of giant-scale models.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air. name (Dynaflite S.E.5a) and the part numbers as listed in the Parts List. You can also check our web site at www.dynaflite.com for the latest S.E.5a updates. 6. You must check the operation of the model before every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally sound.
to one servo, or connected to separate servos. If powering the S.E.5a with an engine in the upper end of the recommended range, and/or if you plan of flying lots of aerobatics with your S.E.5a, two elevator servos are recommended. If two servos are used for the elevators, a radio capable of electronic mixing (so one of the servos can be “reversed”) must be used, or an electronic device to make one of the servos move in the opposite direction will be required.
❏ William’s ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ X-Acto #240 razor saw (XACR1440) ❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment Brothers #13300 5" [127mm] Vintage Wheels (WBRQ1133) 1/2" [13mm] double-sided foam mounting tape (GPMQ4440) Velcro hook and loop material (for mounting battery pack, GPMQ4480) Great Planes long-handle 3/32" hex driver ball wrench (for wing strut screws, GPMR8002) ® (see “Easy-Touch™ Bar Sander” section) COVERING TOOLS ❏ 21st Century sealing iron (COVR2700) ❏ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702) ❏ 21st Century tr
❏ D.G.
Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per inch, and a length. use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will need the working time and/or the additional strength. • Photos and sketches are placed before the step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get another view of the same parts. For example 4-40 x 3/4" This is a number four screw that is 3/4" long with forty threads per inch.
Die Drawing 9
Die Drawing 10
and one 1/4" x 3/8" x 18" [6.4 x 9.5 x 460mm] balsa stick. Use T-pins to hold the sticks down as you proceed. Note the angles on the ends of some of the sticks (indicated by the arrows in the photo) are not cut until the next step. Also note the 3/32" [2.4mm] vent holes (shown on the plan) that have been pre drilled through the sticks to allow air to escape during covering. It’s easiest to drill these holes before the sticks are glued into position.
❏ 6. Reposition the plan so the stab is over the building board. Don’t forget to cover it with Plan Protector or wax paper. Use the sticks left over from the fin and rudder plus four more 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" [9.5 x 13 x 760mm] balsa sticks and three more 1/4" x 3/8" x 18" [6.4 x 9.5 x 460mm] balsa sticks to build the stab and elevators. ❏ 9. Use a Great Planes Slot Machine to cut the hinge slots on the centerlines in the stab and elevators and in the fin and rudder where shown on the plan.
With the control surfaces temporarily joined, sand the outer edges of all the parts round (except for where they are hinged). How to cut hinge slots with a hobby knife When using a hobby knife to cut hinge slots, one of the most common mistakes made by modelers is making the slots too tight. This restricts the flow of CA to the back of the hinges. Another mistake made when installing hinges is not using enough glue to fully secure the hinge over its entire surface area.
Use the “crossed-pin” technique to pin the spars to the plan over the location for the forward and aft bottom spars. pieces. Glue them into the notches in the top of the ribs for the forward and aft top spars. The same as when gluing the ribs to the bottom spars, use a small builder’s triangle to hold the ribs–especially the outer ribs–vertical as you glue. ❏ 6. Glue the four die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood inner bottom webs (labeled “IBW” on the part) to the spars and ribs where shown.
“CTE”) as a pattern, make an additional center panel trailing edge from a 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 76 x 610mm] balsa sheet. Save the remainder of the sheet for the top center panel. ❏ 13. Cut out the bottom sheeting to accommodate the grooved 1/2" x 3/4" x 5-3/8" [12.7 x 19.1 x 137mm] basswood aft landing gear block.
and sheeting even with the ends. Sand the front of the sheeting even with the sub leading edge. the wing plan) and cover it with Plan Protector or wax paper. ❏ 2. The same as was done for the ribs on the ends of the bottom center panel, cut partway through opposite sides of both die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing ribs R2 for the ends of the top center panel between the forward spar notches. Be certain to refer to the wing plan while performing step 3. ❏ 16.
edge using the 3/32" x 3" [2.4 x 75mm] balsa sheet left over from making the first center panel trailing edge for the bottom center panel. Make the skins and save the leftover pieces for shear webs. Glue the top center panel to the bottom skin, add the balsa shear webs, then glue the top skin to the panel. Sand the ends of the sheeting even with the ribs and sub leading edge, then cut out the ribs on the ends of the panel between the spars. Add the leading edge cut from the 1/4" x 5/8" [6.4 x 15.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 8. Cut the bottom aileron spar from Refer to this photo for the following two steps. a 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] basswood stick as shown on the plan, then pin it over its location. Save the remainder of the stick for the top. ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 12. Without using any glue, add the following parts to the assembly: ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 9. Glue all the ribs except for rib R3 • Rib R3 that goes on the root end of the panel. • The top, forward spar cut from a 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] basswood stick.
Refer to this photo for the following three steps. Refer to this photo for the following four steps. ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 15. Cut the top aileron spar from the ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 19. Cut the top leading edge sheet from a 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 76 x 610mm] balsa sheet. Glue the sheet into position. remainder of the 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] basswood stick used for the bottom aileron spar, then glue it into position. ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 20. Remove the outer panel from the building board.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 24. Repeat the same steps to build the left top panel, then switch to the other plan and build both right panels. Be certain to refer to the illustrations depicting which R4 assemblies to use for the panel you are working on. Hint: Use a thick magic marker to put a bold “X” through the illustration of the R4 rib assembly already completed, so you do not inadvertently build the same one. ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 2. Place a die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood servo hatch (HC) over the rails as shown on the plan.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 8. While the epoxy is hardening and 30" [2.4 x 4.8 x 760mm] balsa stick. Glue the cap strips to the rails next to the hatch. the hatch is out of the wing panel, add a few drops of thin CA to the screw holes in the hatch rails. ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 5. Mount the aileron servo to two 3/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" [9.5 x 19 x 19mm] basswood servo mount blocks by drilling 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the blocks.
and aft parts of the tip between the aileron spars and the aft spars. ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 2. Place the wing tip over the plan and mark the location of the tip ribs. Glue one of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa tip ribs (TR) to the wing tip. The outer edge of the tip rib should align with the outer edge of the wing tip. Maintaining a 90° angle as shown, sand the inner edge of the tip rib even with the tip. ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 5. Center the trailing edge of the wing tip on the trailing edge of the wing.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 11. The same as was done on the tail surfaces, mark a centerline on the outer trailing edge. On the model shown, a ballpoint pen supported by a piece of 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa was used to mark the lines (the lines don’t have to be exactly on center–it’s more important that the lines accurately align with each other). Mark a centerline on the aileron leading edge the same way. ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 8. Use a razor saw to cut the aileron from the outer panel. ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 9.
plan. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the control horn screws. Run the #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws in and out of the control horn mount, remove the screws, then add a few drops of thin CA to the holes and allow to fully harden. Mount the control horn and hook up the aileron. Make adjustments where necessary. matched up correctly (bottom center panel to bottom outer panels)! Other than final-sanding (which will be done after the outer panels are joined to the center panel), the outer panels are now completed.
cup. Use an epoxy brush to apply a film of epoxy to the joining ribs on the end of the bottom left panel and the bottom center panel. Set the panels on-end so the epoxy will not run. Coat the joiner with epoxy as well. Add milled glass fibers or microballoons to the remainder of the epoxy mixture. Use a piece of wire to apply the epoxy and microballoons mixture inside both panels between the spars where the joiner fits. Insert the joiner in one of the panels.
❏ 4. Switching to the fuselage bottom view, build the fuselage top over the plan from the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood forward and aft fuselage tops (FFT, AFT) and two 1/8" x 1/2" x 24" [3.2 x 12.7 x 610mm] balsa sticks. Remove the fuselage top from the plan, then sand flat and even. ❏ 2. Make a fuselage side by gluing together a die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuselage side (FS), two 1/8" x 1/2" x 24" [3.2 x 12.7 x 610mm] balsa sticks and the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood stab saddle (SS).
❏ Refer to these photos for the following four steps. 10. Making certain all the parts fit correctly and that the fuse top is fully contacting the plan, use medium CA to carefully glue all the formers to the fuse sides and fuse top. Glue the fuselage sides to the fuse top from F3 aft. Do not glue the fuselage sides to the fuselage top from F3 forward until instructed to do so. When gluing the fuse sides to the fuse top aft of former F9, use a builder’s square to hold the fuselage sides vertical. ❏ 7.
of the bottom wing panel on the leading edge and the center of the fuselage at former F3. Center the wing in the fuselage, aligning the marks. ❏ 19. Drill 13/64" [5.2mm] holes through the four punchmarks in the front of the firewall. Insert four 8-32 blind nuts into the holes in the back of the firewall and lightly tap them in with a hammer. Carefully add a few drops of thin CA around the nuts to permanently hold them in. ❏ 15. Using the holes in F3 as a guide, use a 3/16" [4.
❏ 2. Glue together two pieces of leftover 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] basswood from the wing spars to make a 1/4" x 1/4" [6.4 x 6.4mm] mounting rail for the tank tray. Cut the rail to a length of 3" [75mm]. Glue the rail to the back of former 3 as shown on the plan. ❏ 3. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the aft end of the tank tray and the rail. Remove the tray. Enlarge the holes in the tray only with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. ❏ 23. Test fit, then use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 5-1/8" [6.
❏ 2. Using the 18" [460mm] basswood wing struts to set the correct spacing, carefully glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa spacers (SM) into all four strut mounts without inadvertently gluing in the wing struts (two of the strut mounts are shown in the photo). ❏ 4. Test fit the strut mounts and four wing struts into the fuselage. Slide the strut mounts as far upward into the slots in the fuselage top as they will go. Use the die-cut 1/8" [3.
Now that the engine is mounted, go ahead and hook up the throttle and do the rest of the hookups while the engine compartment is open and easily accessible. MOUNT THE ENGINE ❏ 4. Refer to the side view of the fuselage plan and glue pieces of 1/8" x 1/2" balsa (left over from making the fuselage sides) to the top of both sides of the opening in the fuselage top for the servo screws. Refer to these photos while hooking up the throttle. ❏ 1.
18" [460mm] pushrod connected to the throttle servo with a nylon clevis and connected to the carburetor with a screw-lock pushrod connector. ❏ 7. Make a brace for the aft end of the throttle tube by drilling a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole through a piece of leftover plywood and gluing it to F3 as shown. ❏ 8. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the fuse top for the throttle servo screws.
BUILD THE TOP OF THE FUSELAGE ❏ 3. Cut 4-1/2" [115mm] from each of four more 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa sticks and 4-1/2" [115mm] from one 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" [6.4 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa stick. Save the longer sticks for the aft end of the fuselage. Glue the 4-1/2" [115mm] sticks into the notches of formers F5A and F6A. Cut, then sand the sticks even with the back of F6A. ❏ 1. Glue together both halves of the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa formers F5A, F6A and F7B. ❏ 4.
❏ 9. Before doing any sanding, use balsa filler [3.2mm] balsa to the fuse top 3/32" [2.4mm] from the edge between formers F1 and the firewall and between the firewall and the front strut mounts. Also glue 1/8" [3.2mm] strips of balsa to the fuselage top between F3A and the aft strut mount. These strips will support the bottom of the sheeting when gluing it into position. where required to fill any gaps in the sheeting. Allow the filler to dry, then sand the sheeting smooth and even. ❏ 10.
adjust the position of F7B until the stringer is straight. Glue F7B into that position. Glue the stringer into the notches of the formers. ❏ 13. Use the four remaining 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] balsa sticks left over from step 3 and four more 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa sticks to make the stringers that run from F6B to F8B and glue them into position. ❏ 11. Using the marks made earlier on the fuselage sides, cut the sheeting to accommodate the wing struts.
wing bolts are to be drilled (the holes are 4" [100mm] apart–2" [50mm] both sides of center). Swing the string over to the same position on the other end of the wing. Adjust the wing and slide the tape along the string until the wing is centered (as shown in A = A in the sketch) and the arrow aligns with both sides of the wing. ❏ 5. Stick a T-pin into the center of the bottom sheeting near the aft end of the fuselage. Tie a small loop in one end of an approximately 50" [1.
FIT THE STAB & FIN Note: These instructions show how to temporarily fit the stab and fin to the fuselage. After final sanding, the stab, fin and fuselage will be covered. Then, the stab and fin will be permanently glued in. Modelers who prefer to glue the stab and fin to the fuselage before covering may do so after final sanding. ❏ 11. Glue a leftover 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.
making sure B=B as shown in the sketch. The same way you aligned the bottom wing, use the “pin and string” technique to align the stab (insert the pin into the top stringer in the front of the fuselage). Use a ballpoint pen to lightly mark the top and bottom of the fuselage sides onto the stab. Later, the stab will be covered to the lines, leaving an area of exposed balsa for gluing the stab into position. ❏ 5. Position both 1-1/8" x 1-7/8" x 8-1/2" [28.6 x 82.
plywood tail gear mounts (TGM). Fit a 4-40 blind nut in the inside of both mounts, then use a hammer to securely tap the blind nuts all the way into the wood (do this over a piece of wood so the blind nut can go all the way through). Use a few drops of thin CA to secure the blind nuts. ❏ 2. File the protruding portions of the blind nuts even with the outside of the tail gear mounts. ❏ 3. Position the right mount over its location on the plan. Mark the bottom of the rudder on the tail gear mount. ❏ 4.
wires on the model. With the forward landing gear wire in the groove, mount the landing gear straps to the forward landing gear block with four #2 x 1/2" [12.7mm] screws. MOUNT THE MAIN LANDING GEAR ❏ 1. Prepare the prebent 3/16" [4.8mm] forward and aft main landing gear wires for soldering and painting by cleaning them with denatured alcohol or other suitable solvent. Thoroughly sand the wires with medium-grit sandpaper, followed once again by wiping with denatured alcohol.
still hot, carefully use a paper towel or a cloth to wipe away as much of the residual “caramelized” soldering flux as possible. approximately 1/8" [3mm] longer than the required finished length, so there is no need to cut them longer than the pattern. Note: The procedure of cutting the slots in the ends of the struts for the aluminum strut retainers may appear to be laborious, but if you approach it methodically, take your time and work accurately, it’s really not that difficult.
MOUNT THE ENGINE COWLS Refer to the following two photos while fitting the bottom engine cowl. ❏ 3. Widen the slot with a piece of medium-grit sandpaper folded in half. ❏ 4. Finish widening the slot to the correct thickness with a piece of coarse-grit sandpaper folded in half. If you happen to have one, a D.G. Products Perma-Grit tungsten carbide flat sanding bar works best. When completed, a strut retainer should slide into the slot with little resistance. ❏ 5.
2. Glue tapered strips of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa to the bottom of the fuselage sides so that when in position, the aft edge of the bottom cowl will be even with the bottom fuselage sheeting. ❏ 6. Cut out and test fit the molded plastic front engine cowl to the fuselage. Drill four 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the cowl into F1. The bottom two holes should be centered in the basswood stick on the back of F1. After drilling the top two holes, glue pieces of leftover 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.
follow these instructions exactly, or simply use them as a guideline while applying your own covering techniques. However you decide to finish your S.E.5a, do not forget to install the “Y” connectors in the wings before covering them. tight around the tips. After the covering has been ironed around the tips, trim off the excess “handle.” ❏ 1. Remove the engine and any hardware in the model that would interfere with sanding and covering. ❏ 2.
1/2" [15mm] overlap is suggested. Lastly, the red, white and blue were applied to the rudder as though it were one piece of covering. Use care not to heat the overlapping seams while heating the rest of the covering. Otherwise, the adhesive on the covering will soften, and the seam may pull apart as the covering tightens. Don’t forget to leave part of the rudder exposed for gluing on the tail wheel mount. ❏ 8. Cover the bottom of the wings, but do not yet cover the top of the wings.
❏ ❏ 6. Glue the exhaust pipes into position. The head rest will be glued on after finishing the cockpit later. 3. Glue strips of leftover balsa inside the exhaust pipes as shown. Sand the balsa strips even with the bottom edges of the exhaust pipes so they will lie flat again. ❏ 7. While geared-up for painting, sand the tail wheel mount and apply a light coat of wood stain. Minwax Special Walnut 224 stain was used on this model.
❏ 5. Test fit the fin into the fuselage. Use a Hobbico Builder’s Triangle or another triangle to be certain the fin is perpendicular to the stab. If necessary, when gluing the fin into position in the next step, use masking tape to pull the stab to one side or the other to get it vertical. ❏ 2. Prepare to glue the stab into the fuse by double-checking the stab alignment using the pin and string technique the same as was done before the model was covered. ❏ 6.
❏ 4. Add six drops of thin CA to both sides of the hinges. Keep a tissue nearby to absorb excess CA in case any seeps into the hinge gap or onto the wing. HINGE THE CONTROL SURFACES ❏ 5. Join the rest of the control surfaces the same way. FINISH THE WING STRUTS ❏ 1. Cut the covering from the slots for the strut CUT THE COVERING AWAY FROM THE SLOT retainers in the top and bottom wings. ❏ 1.
❏ 7. Raise or lower the struts as necessary until they are contacting the bottom of the top wing and the leading and trailing edges of the wing are centered in the jigs. As the struts were cut slightly longer than required to allow for adjustment, it may be necessary to remove some or all of the struts and trim them to achieve the adjustment required. ❏ 3. Cut the covering from the fuselage 1/8" [3mm] inside the openings for the wing struts. Use a trim iron to iron the edges of the covering down. ❏ 4.
strut retainer. Temporarily install a 4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] screw into the strut and strut retainer. struts (i.e. RF, RR, LF, LR). Remove the top wing and take all the struts off. Hint: When threading in the 4-40 x 1/2" screws, a Great Planes long-handle 3/32" hex driver ball wrench (GPMR8002) is indispensable. ❏ 15. Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole 5/16" [8mm] from both ends of the outer struts. Enlarge only the inner hole of all the struts with a 5/32" [4mm] drill.
❏ 22. Drill 1/8" [3.2mm] holes through the bottom strut retainers at the marks you made. Fill the strut retainer slots in the bottom wing with 30-minute epoxy, then working quickly, insert the strut retainers, wipe away excess epoxy and mount the struts to the top and bottom strut retainers with the screws. Still working quickly before the 30-minute epoxy hardens, position the wing jigs, align the wings as necessary and do not disturb the plane until the epoxy has fully hardened. ❏ 3. Drill 3/32" [2.
pushrod so the elevator is centered when the servo arm is centered. Refer to this photo for the following three steps. ❏ 9. Cut a small hole in the bottom of the top wing near one of the aft strut retainers. Use a small piece of wire with a hook bent on the end to “fish out” the end of the “Y” connector previously installed in the wing. ❏ 6. Cut the other elevator pushrod about 1" short of the servo arm. Slip two 5/32" [4mm] wheel collars with two 6-32 x 1/4" [6.4mm] screws over the pushrods.
receiver was mounted to the plywood plate (with R/C foam in between) with rubber bands. ❏ 13. Connect the servo wires and on/off switch to the receiver and connect the battery to the on/off switch. Connect the end of the “Y” connector for the ailerons to the aileron plug in the receiver (the remaining end of the “Y” connector will be connected to the other “Y” connector coming from the ailerons in the bottom wing). Mount the on/off switch to the side of the fuselage.
similar to the way the exhaust pipes were glued into position with balsa sticks. Refer to this photo while making the machine gun and mount. ❏ 5. Cut out the molded clear plastic windscreen. ❏ Paint the base black. Position the windscreen on the fuselage, then mark its outline directly onto the fuselage with a ballpoint pen. Cut a 1/16" [1.6mm] strip of covering from the fuselage along the line. 1. Assemble the machine gun per the instructions that came with it. ❏ 2.
APPLY THE DECALS 1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from the sheet. 2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water–about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and water and peel off the paper backing.
These are the recommended control surface throws: High Rate 1-1/2" [38mm] up 1-1/2" [38mm] down Low Rate 3/4" [19mm] up 3/4" [19mm] down RUDDER: 1-1/2" [38mm] right 1-1/2" [38mm] left 1" [25mm] right 1" [25mm] left AILERONS: 1-1/2" [38mm] up 1-1/2" [38mm] down 1" [25mm] up 1" [25mm] down ELEVATOR: ❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately mark the C.G. across the center panel on the bottom of the top wing 5-1/2" [140mm] back from the leading edge. IMPORTANT:The S.E.
empty fuel tank, have an assistant lift the model at the balance point you marked on the bottom of the top wing. Hint: Instead lifting the model with his finger tips, have your assistant use the eraser end of a pencil held in each hand to lift the model (be certain the erasers are positioned on the line near the ends of the center panel under the ribs inside). This will improve the accuracy of the C.G. procedure. to fall off.
transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer. GROUND CHECK If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to full power and maintains full power–indefinitely.
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore, do not run the engine in a closed room or garage. engine an on/off switch should be connected to the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a running engine. Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate engines.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper. Section 3.0: Safety Check 3.4 Flight Testing: All Giant Scale R/C aircraft are to have been flight tested and flight trimmed with a minimum of six flights before the model is allowed to fly at an IMAA Sanctioned event. 3.
❏ 3. ❏ 4. ❏ 5. ❏ 6. ❏ 7. ❏ 8. ❏ 9. ❏ 10. ❏ 11. ❏ 12. ❏ 13. ❏ 14. ❏ 15. ❏ 16. ❏ 17. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place with foam rubber is not sufficient. Extend the receiver antenna and make sure it has a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder joint inside the receiver. Balance the model laterally as explained in the instructions.
TAKEOFF CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such as a lowpitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface flutter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise).
engines, the Dynaflite S.E.5a is similarly nimble with a good climb rate and the ability to perform many classic dog-fighting maneuvers including loops, rolls, spins, stall turns, Immelman turns, etc. model heading straight down the runway. If the wheels are not going straight when the model touches down it may ground loop. If you’re not comfortable doing these “slip” landings, practice in non-windy conditions or have an experienced pilot assist you.
BUILDING NOTES Kit Purchased Date: _______________________ Date Construction Finished:________________ Where Purchased: _________________________ Finished Weight: __________________________ Date Construction Started: _________________ Date of First Flight: ________________________ FLIGHT LOG