™ ™ 8 4 " F u n S c a l e F ly B a by • REALISTIC FUN SCALE MODEL • HUGE, 84” WINGSPAN (IMAA Legal) • 1/4 SCALE MODEL • BUILDS QUICKLY READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL. Instruction Manual WARRANTY Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION Introduction ........................................................2 Precautions.........................................................3 Preparations.......................................................4 Required Items ..................................................4 Optional Items ..................................................4 Suggested Supplies ...........................................4 Building Notes ..................................................
PRECAUTIONS PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF & OTHERS... FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION 1. You must assemble the plane according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos or plan. In those instances the text should be taken as correct. Your Fly Baby is not a toy, but a sophisticated working model that functions like a full-size airplane.
SUGGESTED SUPPLIES PREPARATIONS We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy ❏ 4 oz. Thin CA Adhesive - (GPMR6004) ❏ 4 oz. Medium CA Adhesive (GPMR6010) ❏ 2 oz. Thick CA Adhesive - (GPMR6015) ❏ CA Accelerator - (GPMR6035) ❏ CA Applicator Tips - (HCAR3780) ❏ 6-Minute Epoxy - (GPMR6045) ❏ 30-Minute Epoxy - (GPMR6047) ❏ 4 oz. Aliphatic Resin Glue (GPMR6161) ❏ 4 oz.
Epoxy - 6-minute epoxy cures the fastest; it sets within six minutes but is not fully cured for one hour or more. 30-minute epoxy is the strongest as it allows the epoxy to soak into the wood thoroughly. While it sets within 30 minutes, it is not fully cured for two or more hours. BUILDING NOTES • When you see the term “cut and fit” in the instructions, it means you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue. Slightly modify or shape the part as necessary for the best fit.
DIE-PATTERNS 6
DIE-PATTERNS 7
BUILD THE RUDDER BUILD THE TAIL GROUP BUILD THE FIN ❏ 1. Laminate the two 1/8" die-cut rudder TE1 pieces together. Do the same for the TE2 pieces. Glue the TE1 and TE2 pieces together over the plan. After they are dry remove them from the plan. ❏ 2. Laminate three 1/8" die-cut rudder base pieces together. ❏ 1. Place the fin and rudder plan on your work surface and cover it with wax paper. ❏ 3. Pin three 1/16" balsa shims in place over the plans. ❏ 2.
BUILD THE STABILIZER BUILD THE ELEVATORS ❏ 1. Laminate two of the 1/8" die-cut balsa elevator trailing edge pieces together for each elevator. ❏ 1. Place the stab and elevator plan on your work ❏ ❏ 2. From a 3/8"x 5/8"x 30" balsa stick, cut the elevator leading edge and also the root end of the elevator. Glue these pieces together over the plan. surface and cover it with wax paper. ❏ 2. From the 3/8"x 5/8"x 36" balsa stick, cut and glue the stab TE and sub TE together. Pin it in place on the plan.
❏ ❏ 7. Glue the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood top spar into place. ❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply W1D and W2D doublers to four W3 ribs with 6-minute epoxy as shown in the photo. NOTE: The W1D landing gear notch is deeper than the notch in W2D. ❏❏ 3. Cover the left wing plan with wax paper. Pin the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood bottom spar into place. Pin the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" balsa building jig into place with the 1/4" side against the plan. ❏ ❏ 8.
❏ ❏ 17. Fit and glue the 3/32" x 1/2" x 36" balsa TE spar sheeting onto the bottom of the ribs from W1 to W5. ❏ ❏ 12. Glue WTR1 and W5 to the spars keeping WTR1 down against the 1/2" shim. It will be necessary to squeeze and hold the spars together until the glue cures. ❏ ❏ 18. Cut, fit and glue the 3/32" x 15/16" x ❏ ❏ 13. Glue WTR1 to rib W6 and WTR2 to ribs 36" balsa TE sheeting onto the bottom of the TE of the ribs from rib W1 to the last W3.
❏ ❏ 21. Fit and glue the 3/32" x 1/2" x 36" balsa TE spar sheeting onto the top of the ribs and the rear webs from rib W1 to rib W5 using medium CA. ❏ ❏ 22. Taper the lower TE sheeting to the contour of the top of the ribs. Fit and glue the 3/32" x 15/16" x 36" balsa TE sheeting onto the top of the TE of the ribs from ribs W1 to the last W3 using medium CA. ❏ ❏ 26. Using a 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet, glue the center sheeting from the W1 rib to the first W3 rib. ❏ ❏ 27.
❏ ❏ 30. Fit and glue the laminated WT1 to the center of rib W5 and in the notches of W6 and WTR1. ❏ ❏ 33. From a 3/32" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the cap strips to rib W6 and WTR1 between ribs W5 and W6. ❏ ❏ 31. Fit and glue one of the rear wing tip pieces WT2 and WT3 that you glued together in step 28 to the bottom of ribs W5, W6, WTR2, and to the bottom lamination of WT1. ❏ ❏ 34. Unpin the wing from the building board. ❏ ❏ 32.
❏ 3. Without using any glue, join the wing halves with the dihedral braces. Place the wing on the support block upside down. The tops of the W5 ribs should just touch the building board. Make adjustments as necessary. ❏ ❏ 36. Glue the 1/8" die-cut ply dowel support in place to the back of the leading edge between ribs W1 and W2. Sand the top of the LE to the airfoil shape of the ribs. NOTE: The dihedral angle is 3-1/2 degrees for each wing half, but this is not at all critical.
❏ 6. Use two 21" x 4" pieces of paper to roll into paper tubes. Slip these into the holes in the wing ribs to form a conduit for the servo wires. ❏ 9. Glue the hardwood landing gear block into place with 6-minute epoxy. ❏ 10. Cut 1/8" holes through the top wing sheeting from the bottom side, directly above the servo lead tubes. From the top of the wing enlarge the holes in the sheeting to 1/2" diameter centering the holes above the paper tubes. Cut matching 1/2" holes in the servo lead tubes. ❏ ❏ 7.
❏ ❏ 4. Fit and glue the hinge blocks in place using BUILD THE AILERONS leftover 1/4" x 3/4" balsa. ❏ ❏ 1. Shape the LE of the aileron from a 1/4" x ❏ ❏ 5. Glue the frame made in step 2, to the top of the aileron, aligning the TE of the frames to each other. 3/4" x 24" balsa stick using the TE of the wing as a guide. Shape the aileron LE to the shape of the TE of the wing without the 3/32" sheeting on it. ❏ ❏ 6. Remove the aileron from the plan. ❏ ❏ 7.
❏ 2. Glue F2D to F2 with medium CA. ❏ 5. Locate the two 1/8" x 1/2" x 42" balsa top longerons. Glue one to the inside of the left fuse side along the top edge beginning 3/8" back from the front. Cut the longeron at the notch for the stabilizer and glue the remainder of the 1/8" x 1/2" stick along the stab cutout. Glue the other longeron to the inside of right fuse side beginning 19/32" back from the front. ❏ 3. Laminate the three F1 firewalls with 30-minute epoxy. ❏ 6.
❏ 12. From the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood stick, cut and glue doublers in place behind the firewall using 30-minute epoxy. After the epoxy has cured you may want to pin the firewall to the fuselage with small dowels or toothpicks for additional security. Drill several small holes through the sides and into the firewall. Glue toothpicks into these holes with epoxy. ❏ 13. Trim the right fuselage side flush with the firewall.
earlier, glue formers F4, F5, F6 and F7 into place. Check to insure that the fuselage remains straight and square. ❏ 16. Note the angle of the instrument panel on the plan and glue it into place. ❏ 21. Using the 1/8" x 3" x 24" balsa sheets, sheet the front top of the fuselage as shown in the photo. NOTE: You can trim the cockpit opening now or at step 23. ❏ 17. Use the 3/32" x 3" x 36" balsa sheet to sheet across the fuselage bottom from the wing saddle to the tail.
30-minute epoxy. Glue some doublers to the blocks and fuselage sides using leftover 1/4" x 3/8" basswood. ❏ 26. Two 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" balsa sticks are included with the kit. If desired, these can be glued to the flat fuselage sides as stringers so that the covering will give the fuselage a more rounded appearance. ❏ 27. Sand the fuselage and set aside. ❏ 2. Locate the two 3/4" x 1" x 8" tail fairing blocks. Tack glue them into position on the shims and carve the assembly to shape.
❏ 10. Glue the 3/4" x 1" x 6" basswood landing gear block into place with 30-minute epoxy. Make sure it is glued to former F2. ❏ 6. Align the wing squarely on the fuselage. This is easily done using a piece of string as a guide. Put a pin in the tail of the fuselage at the centerline. Tie a loop in the end of the string and place it over the pin. Move the other end of the string to one wing tip and put some masking tape around the string. Draw an arrow on the tape where it reaches the wing tip.
❏ 14. Use the remainder of the 3/8" x 15/16" stick to make a fairing between the bottom of the wing and former F2. ❏ 15. You can now glue the stab and fin to the fuselage. To increase the gluing area, glue some leftover 3/8" stick to the inside of the fuselage sides at the stab saddle. ❏ 16. Place the stab on the fuselage and align with the wing and center line of the fuselage. Use the same string technique that you used for aligning the wing.
using CA to hold them in place. Apply glass cloth to glass the fairings to the wire and to each other as shown. Use Bondo® filler to blend the assembly. The gear should be ready to prime and paint but hold off until the cowl is ready. NOTE: To remove the wing when the Fly Baby is done, unlatch the rear wire and rotate the gear forward, then remove the wing. When transporting, the gear will keep the fuselage upright. ❏ 23. Mount the rear wire into the wing block.
strip of plastic that is used to reinforce the joint on the inside. Thin CA works well for this. Fill in the joints with Bondo® or a similar filler. When you have glued the cowl together, cut a small hole where the prop shaft needs to exit. Slip the cowl onto the fuselage and see how close you are. Enlarge the hole as needed to clear the engine thrust washer. As you continue to fit the cowl to the fuselage and engine you may need to remove and reinstall the engine several times.
❏ 5. Mount the wheels. ❏ If the servos are mounted just aft of the firewall, you will need a pushrod system 42" long. If the servos are mounted at the TE of the wing, you will need a pushrod system 28" long. In either case, Great Planes solid wire pushrods or Accu-Glide™ Nylon Pushrods would work well. ❏ 8. Install the radio system. Our radio installation ❏ 11. Install the throttle servo and connect the linkage to the engine. ❏ 6.
BALANCE THE MODEL PREFLIGHT This section is important and must not be omitted. A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable. AT HOME Balance Your Propellers Balancing the propeller seems like one of those things that you can skip, but many problems are the result of vibration caused by an unbalanced propeller. Nuts and bolts can vibrate loose and vibration can damage delicate radio components inside your receiver and servos.
Keep loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects away from the prop. Be conscious of pencils, screwdrivers or other objects that may fall out of your shirt or jacket pockets. thing you always must do is make sure no one else is on your frequency (channel). Most model flying fields utilize frequency control so familiarize yourself with their system.
parks, school yards, office building lawns, etc. that may attract unrestrained observers (wild kids). If you are a beginner, you are busy enough concentrating on your model without having to answer lots of questions and performing crowd control. We highly recommend that you get an experienced modeler to assist you with your flight training. An experienced modeler can take your Fly Baby up for the first time and make sure it performs correctly, then give you valuable flight instruction.
