TM TM • EASY TO BUILD...EASY TO FLY • FORGIVING FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS LARGE WINGSPAN • LIGHT WING LOADING READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL. .049 POWERED MOTOR GLIDER Instruction Manual WARRANTY Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
Fuelproofing.................................................34 Final Hook Ups & Checks................................35 Connect The Servos.......................................35 Finish Installing The Radio..............................36 Balance Your Model ......................................38 Set The Control Throws..................................38 Preflight.........................................................39 Charge The Batteries .....................................
. You must install all R/C and other components so that the model operates properly on the ground and in the air. 4. You must test the operation of the model before the first and each successive flight to insure that all equipment operates correctly. You must also make certain that the model has remained structurally sound. Your Piece 0' Cake is not a toy, but a sophisticated working model that functions like a full-size airplane.
CA Activator - (GPMR6035) 30-Minute Pro Epoxy - (GPMR6047) #1 Hobby Knife Handle (XACR4305) #11 Blades (Qty. 100 - HCAR0311) or (Qty.
Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per inch and a length. For example 2-56 x 3/8" When you see the term "test fit" in the instructions, it means you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or "custom fit" the part as necessary for the best fit. *A flat, durable, easy-to-handle sanding tool is a necessity for building model airplanes.
glue to one part, then join it to another. Thick CA is great for glue joints that don't fit perfectly or parts that require a little time for positioning before the glue cures. You will encounter many other conditions that require one or the other types of CA. For the Piece 0' Cake all you really need is thin and medium CA. The most popular type of glue modelers use for general construction of R/C models is cyanoacrylate or CA glues.
DIE-CUT PATTERNS 7
position with medium CA. Where possible, cut the sticks slightly too long so you can trim them to exact length as you complete the assembly. You can cut the tip and bottom pieces too long, and trim them after you remove the rudder from the plan. Place your building board on top of your flat building table. Unroll the plan sheet, then reroll it the opposite way so it will lay flat. Position the rudder and fin drawing over your flat building board.
BUILD THE FIN, STABILIZER & ELEVATOR A note about sanding "built-up" tail surfaces: Use care when you sand a lightweight balsa structure made up of "sticks." The part flexes and moves while you sand, and it can be difficult to keep your sanding block flat so you do not snag any of the small braces, or over-sand one area and make it thinner than another. Due to the design and slow flying speed of the Piece 0' Cake, a perfectly smooth finish is not necessary.
CUT HINGE SLOT WITH HOBBY KNIFE AND No. 11 BLADE After the first shallow cuts, make several more cuts going slightly deeper each time. Move the knife from side to side and widen the slot as you cut. Q 6. Carefully separate the elevator from the stab. Then use a ballpoint pen and a straightedge to lightly draw a line 1/16" from the leading edge on both sides of the elevator. Q 7.
U U 5. Accurately cut a 1/16" x 15/16" x 36" balsa sheet to a length of 1 8". Then pin it in position over the trailing edge of the plan so the root end aligns with the centerline. BUILD THE INNER WING PANEL U 1. Before you remove the the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs and the die-cut 1/16" plywood parts from their die sheets, mark them with a ballpoint pen as shown on page 7.
Q Q 11. Trim the 2-1/8" x 6" sheet you just made so it fits between the bottom main spar and the bottom trailing edge sheet. Accurately trim the root edge of the sheet (the left edge if you are building the right wing panel, the right edge of the sheet if you are building the left wing panel) so it aligns with the centerline of the wing. It's okay if the other edge of the sheet extends past rib W2. Pin the sheet in position but do not glue it to the wing yet. Q Q 8.
Q Ql 14. Remove the T-pins from the bottom TE sheeting. Then replace them in the aft end of the ribs to hold the rear of the wing panel securely to your building board. Q Q 15. Test fit the other half of the 1/16" x 15/16" x 36" trailing edge sheet that you cut to a length of 18" in step 5. If necessary, adjust the notches in the ribs so the aft edge of the upper TE will align with the aft edge of the lower TE. 1/4" BEVEL BEVEL THE UPPER TE TO FIT THE LOWER TE. LJ LJ 18.
Q Q 22. Test fit, then glue/ the 1/8" x 1/4" x 181 /4" basswood top spar to the ribs and shear webs with medium CA. Q Q 26. Cut along the dotted line of the wing root and wing tip dihedral gauge templates on the back cover of the manual. Then glue the templates with spray adhesive or rubber cement to a piece of balsa wood or thin card stock (such as from a cereal box). Use a #11 blade and a straightedge to accurately cut the templates from the card stock along the solid outline to make the dihedral gauges.
TIP: How To Use A Razor Plane We highly recommend a razor plane to shape the LE's because it is the safest, fastest and most accurate method to remove large quantities of balsa. A. Adjust your razor plane so it removes about 1 /64" or less balsa at a time. B. Position the LE of the wing panel at the edge of your work bench so it is supported and the bench does not interfere with the razor plane. Q Ql 30.
Q Q 6. Position a 1/4" x 1/2" x 18" balsa leading edge over its location on the plan so the root aligns with the centerline at W3-T. Securely pin the LE to the building board so it tightly contacts the wing ribs. Then glue it in position with thin CA. BUILD THE OUTER WING PANELS Start with the right outer wing panel so your progress matches the photos. Ui l—l 1. Cover the outer panel of the right wing plan with wax paper.
Q Q 13. Fit rib W3-T to the outer panel and accurately align it over its location on the plan. Use the wing tip dihedral gauge to set W3-T at the correct angle, then glue it in position with medium CA. Q Q 20. Cut the 3/4" x 12-1/4" balsa triangle stock into two 6-1/8" pieces to make the wing tips. Use medium CA to glue a tip to W9 so the aft edge of the triangle wing tip aligns with the aft edge of the TE. Q Q 14. Make a gusset from the end of the 1 /4" x 1 /4" x 15" balsa stick.
PREPARE THE PANELS FOR JOINING to decrease the height of the dihedral brace if needed so it fits between the top and bottom spar. LJ 1. Use your razor plane or a hobby knife to shave the sharp corners of the leading edge of one of the wing panels. Round and final shape the leading edge with a bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper according to the cross section on the right wing panel drawing on the plan. Shape the remaining wing panels the same way.
LJ 7. Clamp the wing halves together. Then prop up one of the tips so it is 3-1/2" above your table. Q Q 4. Clamp the wing halves together. Then prop up the tip so it is 3-1 /2" above your table. 1 8. Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures and do not disturb the wing panel until the epoxy if fully cured. Q Q 5. Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures and do not disturb the wing panel until the epoxy is fully cured. Q 6. Return to step 1 and join the panels of the other wing half the same way.
Q 4. Remove the T-pins, then lift F2 from the plan and peel off the wax paper. Reinforce the glue joints in the corners with medium CA. LJ 4. Use your bar sander to bevel the top edges of the die-cut plywood wing protectors. Glue the wing protectors to the top of the trailing edge of the wing with medium CA so the inner edges are 3/4" from the centerline of the wing. Q 5. Build F3 and F4 from the 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick the same way you built F2. BUILD THE FORMERS PREPARE THE FUSE SIDES I—I 1.
Q 3. Use a sharp hobby knife and a straightedge to cut 1 /8" off the front of only the right fuselage side. CJ 4. Push a large T-pin through the punch marks that are on the outside of the right fuselage side to transfer the punch marks to the inside. Use a straightedge to draw a line with a ballpoint pen connecting the punch marks that indicate where the formers are located on the inside of both fuselage sides. U 6.
Q 8. Accurately align F4 with the guidelines you drew and align the top and bottom of the aft fuselage sides. Glue F4 in position with thin CA. LI 2. Position former F2 on the right fuselage side so the aft edge aligns with the guideline you made. Use a builder's triangle to hold the former perpendicular to the fuse side. Glue it in position with thin CA. Q 3. Glue former F3 to the right fuselage side the same way. D 4. Without using any glue, join the left fuselage side to the right fuselage side.
U 12. Use your bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper to sand the bottom of the fuselage sides aft of F3 so the formers and fuselage sides are even. Make sure the clamp and the 1/8" x 1/4" spacer in the back of the fuselage sides will not interfere with the bottom sheeting (we had to replace the paper clamp shown in previous photos with a clothespin and shorten the balsa spacer). U 4.
Q 1. Use the 1/8" x 3/8" x 12" plywood stick to make two servo rails that rest upon the servo rail supports between the fuselage sides. Fit but do not glue the servo rails in position, then place your servos on the rails. LJ 4. Use a large sanding block and 150-grit sandpaper to sand the triangle pieces, fuselage sides, fuselage top and fuselage bottom so they are all flat and even. Q 5. Glue the 1/8" plywood firewall F1 to the front of the fuselage with 30-minute epoxy.
LJ 6. Reinstall, but do not glue, the guide supports in the fuselage, then cut the 36" outer guide tubes into two 23" long pieces. Roughen the outside of the guide tubes with 150-grit sandpaper so glue will stick. Then slide them through the slots in the back of the fuselage and route them through the guide supports. U 8. Position the aft support so the guide tubes make a smooth transition from the slots at the back of the fuselage to the front support. Glue it to the fuselage sides and F4 with thin CA.
Q 5. With the stab in position on the fuselage, use a ballpoint pen to mark the location of the leading edge of the stab on the top of the fuselage sides. This indicates where the top fuselage sheeting "ends." Q 2. Place the stab on the back of the fuselage with a small weight on top of the middle of the stab. Stand back from the fuselage and view the straightedge and the stab.
fuselage. Then glue the 1/16" die-cut plywood H3 hatch ledge to the bottom of the aft hatch compartment top so 3/8" protrudes in front of H4. Glue a piece of 1/16" leftover plywood to the bottom of the ledge for the hatch screw. when positioned on the fuselage. Use medium CA to glue the windshield in position. Then sand the edges flush with the fuselage. l-l 9. Trim the 1/16" plywood hatch to it fits between the front and aft hatch compartment tops.
MOUNT YOUR ENGINE LJ 3. Use your bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to sand the ends of the landing gear rails so they are flush with the fuselage sides. Bevel the corners for a neater appearance. LJ 4. Center the 1/16" plywood landing gear plate on the landing gear rails. Drill four 1/16" holes evenly spaced 1/4" from both ends of the plate. Remove the plate, then enlarge the holes in the plate only with a 3/32" drill bit. U 1.
Q 4. Remove the engine (so it does not get balsa dust in it), then sand the cowl blocks so they are flush with the fuselage. Round the front edges of the cowl blocks for a finished appearance. Start with your bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper, then finish by hand-sanding with 320-grit sandpaper. Reinstall your engine just to see how it looks! 1/8" 3/8" 5/16" 5/16" F-3 Q 5. Drill 3/16" holes in the fuselage sides at the locations shown in the sketch for the wing dowels. Cut the 6-1/2" dowel in half.
Q 4. Align your straightedge with the marks on the fuse top again, then lightly mark a 1" long centerline on the fuse top in front of the LE of the stab. ALIGN THE FIN Q 1. Position the fin on the stab with the trailing edge of the fin between the fuse sides. Q 5. Align the fin with the centerline you marked on the top of the fuselage, then pin the front of the fin to the fuse sheeting with one small T-pin.
does not pull on the airframe as much as MonoKote film. Therefore, EconoKote film is ideal for lighter weight structures like your Piece 0' Cake, especially the tail surfaces. U 2. Test fit the wing on the fuselage. Use a hobby knife and a bar sander with 150-grit sandpaper to shape the top of F2 and the windshield so the wing fits. Q 3. Remove the engine, pushrods, landing gear, hatch, wing dowels and any other hardware that may interfere with covering. U 4.
U 2. Cut the covering for one half of the bottom of the stab so it is approximately 2" oversize. Use a straightedge to cut the end that aligns with the lines you drew that indicate the fuselage. Use a Top Flite MonoKote Iron with a Hot Sock to securely bond the covering to the perimeter (LE, TE, tip, middle) of Ll 4. Seal the front, rear and tip of the covering to the stab. Then heat the covering as you pull and stretch it around the tip.
Ul 6. Cover the other bottom stab half the same way. LJ 10. Cover the triangular fin reinforcements. Trim the excess so it "overhangs" the edges by approximately 3/32". Don't iron it down yet. This way all you have to do is glue the fin reinforcements to the fin and stab and seal the edges with the iron. CJ 7. Cut the covering for one half of the top of the stab so it is approximately 2" oversize.
JOIN THE TAIL SURFACES TO THE FUSELAGE LJ 1. Test fit the stabilizer and fin to the fuselage to make sure none of the covering interferes with the glue joints and areas that are exposed balsa. SHAPE THE FLYING SURFACES Q 1. Due to the lightweight structure of the Piece 0' Cake and the shrinkage of the covering, the wing, fin, rudder, elevator and stab can warp or twist.
the center of the hinge, then join the surfaces and remove the pins. Q 3. Confirm that the ends of the elevator align with the ends of the stab, that the hinges are centered, and there is a small gap between the stab and elevator (just enough to see light). A small gap is desirable so you do not inadvertently glue the elevator to the stab. Q 5. Use a Trim Seal Tool or a MonoKote Iron to seal the perimeter of the covering on the reinforcements to the fin and stab. Q 4.
CONNECT THE SERVOS B. Grip the first bend in your piiers and make another 90 degree bend in the wire 1 /8" behind the first. I,.) 1. Use "Z-Bend" pliers or read the following procedure to make a "Z-bend" in the end of one of the 1/16" x 36" pushrod wires. How To Make A Z-Bend In A Pushrod Wire With Regular Pliers A. Make a sharp "L-Bend" 1/8" from the end of the wire. C. Hold the "bends" in the pliers, then make a third bend aligning the first two bends to make the Z-bend. Q 2.
LJ 7. Mount the engine to the firewall. Q 8. Mount the landing gear in the fuselage with the mount plate and four #2 x 3/8" screws, then mount a 1-1/2" wheel with a 3/32" wheel collar (not included, GPMQ4302) on each landing gear wire. RIGHT WRONG LJ 3. Position the control horn on the right side of the rudder so the holes in the control horn align with the hinge gap. I—I 9.
mount the engine to the firewall (and protrude from the back of the firewall) will not contact the battery pack. If the screws wear through the battery casing they could cause a short circuit and start a fire. To protect the battery pack, place a 1/8" piece of balsa between your battery pack and the firewall. Note: Only a 500 mAh "square pack" (or smaller unit ) will fit in the battery compartment of the Piece 0' Cake. You can purchase a square battery pack separately if you do not have one.
U 6. Confirm that the battery pack and the receiver are adequately cushioned on all sides and securely mounted so they will not become dislodged during flight or a rough landing. nose. Use Great Planes Adhesive Lead Weights (GPMQ4485). Our prototype Piece 0' Cake required 6 oz. of Great Planes stick-on lead weight in the battery compartment to balance. Q 7. Cut a hole in the covering over the wing dowel holes in the fuselage, then install the dowels.
More movement CHARGE THE BATTERIES Follow the battery charging instructions in the instruction manual that came with your radio control system. You should always charge your batteries the night before you fly. Less movement Moving the clevis outward on the servo arm results in more pushrod movement. GROUND CHECK THE MODEL Inspect all nuts, screws and wheel collars. Make sure you install the screw that holds the servo arm onto the servos and the servo cords are securely connected to the receiver.
hands) after each flight. Store fuel soaked rubber bands in a container with talcum powder or corn starch to absorb the oil. Get help from an experienced pilot when you learn to operate engines. Use safety glasses when you operate model engines. Do not run the engine near loose gravel or sand; the propeller may throw loose material in your face or eyes. RANGE CHECK THE RADIO Check the operational range of the radio before the first flight.
TAKEOFF FIND A SAFE PLACE TO Fly The best place to fly your R/C model is at an AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) chartered club field. Ask your hobby dealer or the AMA if there is a club in your area and join it (The address and telephone number for the AMA is listed on page 3 of this instruction book). Club fields exist to make your R/C flying safe and enjoyable. We recommend that you join the AMA and a local club so you may have a safe place to fly and insurance in case of a flying accident.
Your next turn will be into the wind so it will be a little easier to maintain altitude and complete the turn. Apply rudder in the direction required to initiate the turn. Keep flying a "racetrack pattern" while you maintain altitude and make small corrections (as small as possible) to keep the desired heading.
Fill in the information on the identification tag. You may want to protect the face of the tag to keep it from smearing. Cut out the tag and glue it to the inside of your model. Issued by the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS This is an experimental model which may be lost in flight. The fuel tank may contain gasoline or other flammable fluid, which should be drained before transporting or storing. Keep away from fire. Finder should notify owner immediately.
