Specifications

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FIRST BURN - CURING THE STOVE PAINT
Your stove has been painted with the highest quality stove paint and
has special break-in procedures. The heat generated by the normal
operation of the stove, will serve to harden the paint.
Ventilate the house during the first three times the stove is used. The
paint on the stove will give off smoke, carbon dioxide and an odor.
Without adequate ventilation, concentrations of smoke could irritate
you or cause damage to person and/or property. Open doors and
windows and use a fan if necessary. After the initial burns the paint
will be cured and there should be no more smoke.
Each of the initial burns should be conducted as follows:
A) The first and second burns should be at approximately 250 deg F
(120 deg C) for approximately 20 minutes.
B) The third burn should be between 500 deg F (260 to 370 deg C)
for at least 45 minutes. The important fact is the paint should be
cured slowly. Avoid hot fires during the curing process.
During the curing process the paint will be gummy. Once cured the
paint will remain hard.
It is normal to see flat spots on painted surfaces of the stove.
The flat spots on the paint surface indicate the hotter surfaces of the
stove, and is caused by the heat radiating through the paint. It is also
expected that shiny spots caused by friction from the packaging
materials, will disappear during the curing of the stove.
SO:
1) Remember to Ventilate well.
2) Allow the stove to cure before burning for long periods at high
temperatures.
3) Flat spots on the painted surfaces are normal.
4) Shiny spots on the paint surface before burning is normal.
5) Call your dealer if you have any questions.
BUILDING A FIRE
1. Open inlet air control fully.
2. Place a small amount of crumpled paper in the stove.
3.Cover the paper with a generous amount of kindling in a teepee
fashion and a few small pieces of wood.
4. Ignite the paper and close door. If fire dies down substantially,
open door slightly.
5. Add larger pieces of wood as the fire progresses being careful not to
overload. Do not fill firebox beyond firebrick area. An ideal coal bed
of 1" to 2" should be established to achieve optimum performance.
6. This unit is designed to function most effectively when air is allowed
to circulate to all areas of the firebox. An ideal means of achieving this
is to rake a slight (1" to 2" wide) trough in the centre of the coal bed
from front to back prior to loading the fuel.
7. Once fuel has been loaded, close door and open air inlet control fully
until fire is well established (approx. 10 minutes) being careful not to
over fire.
8. Readjust air inlet control to desired burn rate. If excessive smoke
fills firebox, open air inlet control slightly until flames resume and wood
is sufficiently ignited. While a basic rule of thumb is “closed - low”,
“1/2 way - medium” and “fully open - high” more information is available
on the insert sheet relating to your specific unit.
9. When refuelling, adjust air control to the fully open position. When fire
brightens, slowly and carefully open the door. This procedure will
prevent gases from igniting causing smoke and flame spillage.
10. Add fuel being careful not to overload.
NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL,
KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS
TO START OR ‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS HEATER. KEEP ALL
SUCH LIQUIDS WELL AWAY FROM THE HEATER WHILE IT IS IN
USE.
REPLACE GLASS ONLY WITH HIGH TEMPERATURE ROBAX
PYROCERAM OF THE PROPER SIZE AND THICKNESS
GLASS CARE
The following use and safety tips should be observed:
1. Inspect the glass regularly for cracks and breaks. If you detect a
crack or break, extinguish the fire immediately, and contact your
dealer for replacement.
2. Do not slam door or otherwise impact the glass. When closing doors,
make sure that logs or other objects to not protrude and impact the
glass.
3. Do not clean the glass with materials which may scratch (or otherwise
damage) the glass. Scratches on the glass can develop into cracks
or breaks.
4. Never attempt to clean the glass while unit is hot. If the deposit is not
very heavy, normal glass cleaners are adequate with a plain, non-
abrasive scouring pad. Heavier deposits may be removed with the
use of a readily available oven cleaner.
5. Never put substances which can ignite explosively in the unit since
even small explosions in confined areas can blow out the glass.
6. This unit has an airwash system, designed to reduce deposits
on glass.
GASKET REPLACEMENT
After extensive use, the sealing material which provides glass and door
seal may need to be replaced if it fails to sustain its resilience. Inspect
glass and door seal periodically to ensure for proper seal. If gaskets
become frayed or worn, replace immediately.
Contact your dealer for approved replacement parts.
The following steps should be followed for glass gasket replacement:
1. Ensure appliance is not in operation and is thoroughly cooled.
2. Remove screw and glass clip (see insert sheet specific to your
appliance).
3. Lift glass out from glass clip.
4. Remove old gasket and clean glass.
5. Replace new gasket starting at the bottom of glass working
along edges, being sure to centre gasket channel on glass.
6. Trim to length and butt ends together.
7. Replace glass in door, being sure not to over-tighten screw and clip.
The following steps should be followed for door gasket replacement:
1. Ensure appliance is not in operation and is thoroughly cooled.
2. Remove old door gasket and clean channel.
3. Using an approved high temperature gasket cement, apply a thin
coat in bottom of channel.
4. Starting at hinge side of door, work into channel around door unit,
end butt and trim to length.
5. Close door and allow three to four hours for cement to set before
restarting appliance.
CREOSOTE
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapours.
These combine with moisture to form creosote. Creosote vapours
condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a
result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited,
this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. The chimney should be
inspected regularly during the heating season to determine if a creosote
build-up has accumulated. If this is the case, the creosote should be
removed to reduce the risk of chimney fire.
WARNING: Things to remember in case of chimney fire:
1. CLOSE DRAFT CONTROL. 2. CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT.
WAYS TO PREVENT AND KEEP UNIT FREE OF CREOSOTE
1. Burn with air control open for several minutes at numerous intervals
throughout the day during the heating season, being careful not
to over-fire unit. This removes the slight film of creosote accumulated
during low burn periods.
2. Burn stove with draft control wide open for several minutes every
time you apply fresh wood. This allows wood to achieve the charcoal
stage faster and burns wood vapours which might otherwise
be deposited within the system.
3. BURN ONLY SEASONED WOOD. Avoid burning wet or green
wood. Seasoned wood has been dried for at least one year.
4. A small hot fire is preferable to a large smouldering one that can
deposit creosote within the system.
5. Establish a routine for the fuel, wood burner and firing technique.
Check daily for creosote build-up until experience shows how often
you need to clean to be safe. Be aware that the hotter the fire, the
less creosote is deposited and weekly cleanings may be necessary
in mild weather even though monthly cleanings may be enough in the
coldest months. Contact your local municipal authority for
information on how to handle a chimney fire. Have a clearly
understood plan to handle a chimney lire.
ASH DISPOSAL
This unit features a convenient ash lip for easy removal of ash. During
constant use, ashes should be removed every few days, or whenever
ashes get to three to four inches deep in the firebox. Remove ashes
only when the fire has died down and the ashes have cooled. Even
then, expect to find a few hot embers.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The
closed container of ashes should be placed on a non-combustible floor ,
well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the
ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed,
they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have
thoroughly cooled. Other waste should not be placed in the ash
container.
IMPORTANT
HELPFUL HINTS WORTH REPEATING
1) What is the correct way to start a fire?
a) You will need small pieces of dry wood (kindling) and paper. Use only
newspaper or paper that has not been coated or had unknown
materials glued or applied to it. Never use coated
(typically advertising flyers) or coloured paper.
b) Open the door of the wood stove.
c) Crumple several pieces of paper and place them in the centre of the
firebox and directly on to the firebricks of the wood stove. Never use
a grate to elevate the fire.
d) Place small pieces of dry wood (kindling) over the paper in a “Teepee”
manner. This allows for good air circulation, which is critical for
good combustion.
e) Light the crumpled paper in 2 or 3 locations.
Note: It is important to heat the air in the stovepipe for draft to start.
f) Fully open the air control of the wood stove and close the door until it is
slightly open, allowing for much needed air to be introduced into the
fire box. Never leave the door fully open as sparks from the kindling
may occur causing injury or property damage. As the fire begins to
burn the kindling, some additional kindling may be needed to sustain
the fire. DO NOT add more paper after the fire has started.
g) Once the kindling has started to burn, start by adding some of your
smaller pieces of seasoned (dry) firewood. Note: Adding large pieces
at the early stages will only serve to smother the fire. Continue adding
small pieces of seasoned (dry) firewood, keeping the door slightly
open until each piece starts to ignite. Remember to always open the
door slowly between placing wood into the fire.
h) Once the wood has started to ignite and the smoke has reduced,
close the wood stove door fully. The reduction of smoke, is a good
indication that the draft in the chimney has started and good
combustion is now possible. Larger pieces of seasoned (dry)
firewood can now be added when there is sufficient space in the
Firebox. Adjust the air control setting to desired setting.
I) Note: The lower the air control setting the longer the burn time of
your firewood.
2) What type of wood is best to use as Firewood?
Dry seasoned hardwood should be used. Avoid green unseasoned
wood. Green wood, besides burning at only 60 percent of the fuel
value of dry seasoned wood, will deposit creosote on the inside of your
stove and along the inside of your chimney.
3) What does dry seasoned wood mean, and what is considered
hardwood?
Wood that has been dried for a period of one year in a well-ventilated
and sheltered area would be considered dry seasoned wood.
Hardwoods are generally from slow growth trees (Example: Oak and
Fir). Softwoods are generally from fast growth trees. (Example: Pine
and Spruce)
4) Will following the above listed steps for starting a fire result
in perfect results all the time?
The quick answer is most of the time. There are many variables that
may affect your success rate when staring a fire. Most of those
variables and how to deal with them will be learned through experience.
Your ability to start a good fire will significantly increase with time and
patience. Some of the reasons for poor stove performance will be
covered in the next section of these instructions.
5. Why can’t I get the fire lit?
Damp or wet wood and poor draft are the main reasons for poor results
in starting a fire. Always use dry seasoned wood for your fire. Even
wood dried for two years will be difficult to ignite, if it has become wet.
6) Why is there always a large quantity of thick black smoke
present in the firebox?
A large quantity of thick black smoke in the firebox, is a good indication
that the draft is poor.
7) Is it normal for soot to cover the glass at the beginning of a fire?
Your stove has been built with an air wash system that will help keep the
glass clear when the firebox has reached a good operating temperature,
and has a good draft. Cold firebox temperature and poor draft cause
sooting of the glass. Once the firebox temperature and the draft
increases, the soot will burn off.
8) What is draft?
Draft is the ability of the chimney to exhaust draw by-products produced
during the normal combustion process.
9) What can cause a poor draft?
The most common factors for poor draft are:
a) Atmospheric pressure and air supply
b) Environmental conditions
c) Cold chimney temperature
d) Poor chimney installation and maintenance
a) Atmospheric Pressure and Air Supply
Atmospheric pressure affecting the draft from a chimney can be either
outside the home, inside the home or both. Outside the home, a high-
pressure day (clear and cool) generally creates a better draft in the
chimney than a low-pressure day (overcast and damp). Inside the
home, normal household appliances, such as clothes dryers and forced
air furnaces compete for air resulting in inadequate amounts of air
available to fuel a fire and create a condition known as negative
pressure. Under extreme conditions of negative pressure the
combustion by-products can be drawn from the chimney and into the
house. This condition is commonly referred to as down drafting.
There are several factors that impact the amount of air available in the
home. Increased amounts of insulation vinyl windows, extra caulking in
various places and door seals can all keep heat in but may also make a
home too airtight. If you are in doubt about whether or not there is
sufficient air in your home for your stove, curtail from using those
appliances known to consume the air where possible, or open a window
or door to allow air to enter the home.
b) Environmental Conditions
High trees, low lying house location such as in a valley, tall buildings or
structures surrounding your house and windy conditions can cause pool
draft or down drafting.
c) Cold Chimney Temperature
Avoid cold chimney temperatures by burning a hot fire for the first fifteen
to forty minutes, being careful not to over fire. If any part of the chimney
or parts of the stove start to glow, you are over firing the stove. Where
possible, install a temperature gauge on the chimney so temperature
drops can be seen.
d) Chimney Installation and Maintenance
Avoid using too many elbows or long horizontal runs. If in doubt, contact
a chimney expert and/or chimney manufacturer for help. Clean
chimney, rain caps and especially spark arrester regularly, to prevent
creosote build-up, which will significantly reduce chimney draw and may
cause a chimney fire.
10) Should I close or open the air control fully when shutting
Down the stove?
When shutting down the stove, fully open the air control. This allows the
chimney temperatures to remain as high as possible for as long as
possible. Cold chimney temperatures create creosote.
Note: This sheet is intended as an aid and does not supersede any local,
provincial or state requirements. Check with officials or authorities
having jurisdiction in your area.