Installation Guide

Tips & Tricks for Project Wood

Project Wood comes in smaller, easy-to-transport, easy-to-store, easy-to-handle panels in a

variety of thicknesses. The noted nominal thickness may not be the exact actual dimension – as

is common with dimensional lumber as well – but it will be close, and certainly close enough to

ensure you’re choosing the proper thickness for the requirements of your project. However,

“eyeballing” the thickness you’re looking for is the quickest and surest way to make your very

first mistake.

As they say, measure twice, cut once.

Understanding Plywood Grades

Veneer Grades: The best way to think of veneer grades is as school grades, with A being the

best/most desirable and D having the least favorable appearance.

A Grade – Sanded, smooth, paintable surface without knots. Any defects were small enough to

be neatly repaired by the manufacturer using a synthetic filler. This product is ideal for

furniture, cabinets, doors or any projects where beauty is of the utmost importance.

B Grade – Sanded, smooth, paintable surface. Veneers may have only a few small knots or

slight discoloration.

C Grade – Unsanded with observable minor defects that would need to be repaired if a more

attractive appearance is important. Knotholes may be up to 1½ inches across.

D Grade – Unsanded and potentially discolored with more significant defects and knotholes up

to 2½ inches across. This grade is often used for structural purposes or as sheathing that will be

covered with other products such as flooring, siding, roofing, etc.

Cutting Plywood

Don’t own a saw? Ask a sales associate if complementary cutting is available. Most stores will

cut as many pieces as you’d like to any dimensions you need. Feel free to bring your project

instructions along so you’re ready to take advantage of this service when and where it’s

offered. The professionals are there to help!

Getting a Clean Edge

All the cuts you need to make on plywood can be made with a circular saw. A miter saw and

table saw work too – and can save time on large jobs – but the circular saw is your Swiss army

knife of cutting. Whichever saw you choose, make sure you’re using one with sharp carbide

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Tips & Tricks for Project Wood Project Wood comes in smaller, easy-to-transport, easy-to-store, easy-to-handle panels in a variety of thicknesses. The noted nominal thickness may not be the exact actual dimension – as is common with dimensional lumber as well – but it will be close, and certainly close enough to ensure you’re choosing the proper thickness for the requirements of your project.
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teeth. A high number of sharp teeth – at least 80 – will ensure clean cuts, while dull blades are more likely to chew up the edges of your wood. Terms that describe cuts: Rip cut: A cut going with the grain of the wood. Rip cuts are less likely to splinter. Crosscut: A cut that is made across/perpendicular to the grain. This is where you’ll encounter problems with splintering, chipping and other symptoms if your saw blade doesn’t have an adequate number of sharp teeth.
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Due to the nature of plywood’s face veneers, it’s important to be careful when sanding, as it can be easy to inadvertently sand through the veneer. This produces what’s referred to as a “burn,” where the second, darker layer shows through. When you’re looking to achieve an even finish, it’s always a good idea to make a few light pencil marks on the surface of your veneer and use them as a benchmark for how deep you’re sanding.