User Manual

7
ENGLISH
Bevel Angle Adjustment (Fig. A, H)
The full range of the bevel adjustment is from 0° to 57°. The
quadrant is graduated in increments of 1°. On the front of
the saw is a bevel angle adjustment mechanism consisting
of a calibrated quadrant and a bevel adjustment lever
6
.
To Set the Saw for a Bevel Cut
1. Loosen (counterclockwise) the bevel adjustment
lever
6
and tilt shoe (
8
, Fig.A) to the desired angle by
aligning the pointer with the desired anglemark.
2. Retighten lever firmly (clockwise).
1. Hold the saw firmly. Raise the depth adjustment
lever
16
to loosen and move foot plate to obtain the
desired depth of cut, as shown. Make sure the depth
adjustment lever has been retightened (lowered) before
operating the saw.
2. Align the appropriate mark on the depth adjustment
strap
17
with notch
18
on the upper blade guard.
Your depth is set.
For the most efficient cutting action, set the depth
adjustment so that one-half tooth of the blade will project
below the material to be cut. This distance is from the tip of
the tooth to the bottom of the gullet in front of it. This keeps
blade friction at a minimum, removes sawdust from the cut,
results in cooler, faster sawing and reduces the chance of
kickback. A method for checking for correct cutting depth
is shown in FigureG. Lay a piece of the material you plan to
cut along the side of the blade, as shown, and observe how
much tooth projects beyond thematerial.
LOOSEN
TIGHTEN
Fig. E
16
16
18
17
Fig. F
Fig. G
Cutting Depth Adjustment (Fig. E–G)
NOTE: The maximum depth of cut for this saw is 2-9/16"
(65mm) at 90°.
e. Snagging the lower guard on a surface below the
material being cut momentarily reduces operator
control. The saw can lift partially out of the cut
increasing the chance of bladetwist.
2. IMPROPER DEPTH OF CUT SETTING ON SAW
a. To make the most efficient cut, the blade should
protrude only far enough to expose one-half of a
tooth as shown in FigureF. This allows the shoe
to support the blade and minimizes twisting and
pinching in the material. See the section titled
Cutting DepthAdjustment.
3. BLADE TWISTING (MISALIGNMENT IN CUT)
a. Pushing harder to cut through a knot, a nail or a hard
grain area can cause the blade totwist.
b. Trying to turn the saw in the cut (trying to get back
on the marked line) can cause bladetwist.
c. Overreaching or operating the saw with poor body
control (out of balance), can result in twisting
theblade.
d. Changing hand grip or body position while cutting
can result in bladetwist.
e. Backing up the saw to clear blade can lead totwist.
4. MATERIALS THAT REQUIRE EXTRA ATTENTION
a. Wet lumber
b. Green lumber (material freshly cut or not kiln dried)
c. Pressure treated lumber (material treated with
preservatives or anti-rot chemicals)
5. USE OF DULL OR DIRTY BLADES
a. Dull blades cause increased loading of the saw. To
compensate, an operator will usually push harder
which further loads the unit and promotes twisting
of the blade in the kerf. Worn blades may also have
insufficient body clearance which increases the
chance of binding and increasedloading.
6. LIFTING THE SAW WHEN MAKING A BEVEL CUT
a. Bevel cuts require special operator attention to
proper cutting techniques – especially guidance of
the saw. Both blade angle to the shoe and greater
blade surface in the material increase the chance for
binding and misalignment (twist) tooccur.
7. RESTARTING A CUT WITH THE BLADE TEETH
JAMMED AGAINST THE MATERIAL
a. The saw should be brought up to full operating
speed before starting a cut or restarting a cut after
the unit has been stopped with the blade in the kerf.
Failure to do so can cause stalling andkickback.
Any other conditions which could result in pinching,
binding, twisting, or misalignment of the blade could cause
kickback. Refer to the sections Further Safety Instructions
for All Saws and Blades for procedures and techniques that
will minimize the occurrence ofkickback.