Product Manual

English
11
Trigger Switch (Fig. 8)
FIG. 8
A
AR
R
To turn the saw on, push the lock-off lever (R) to the left,
then depress the trigger switch (A). The saw will run while
the switch is depressed. Allow the blade to spin up to full
operating speed before making the cut. To turn the saw
off, release the switch. Allow the blade to stop before
raising the saw head. There is no provision for locking
the switch on. A hole (AR) is provided in the trigger for
insertion of a padlock to lock the switch off.
Your saw is not equipped with an automatic electric blade
brake, but the saw blade should stop within 5 seconds
of trigger release. This is not adjustable. If the stop time
repeatedly exceeds 5 seconds, have the tool serviced by an authorized D
e
WALT service
center.
Always be sure the blade has stopped before removing it from the kerf.
Dust Extraction (Fig. 3, 9)
FIG. 9
N
AQ
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious
personal injury, turn tool off and remove the
battery pack before transporting, making
any adjustments or removing/installing
attachments or accessories. An accidental
start-up can cause injury.
Your saw has a built-in dust port (N) that allows
either the supplied dust bag (AQ) or a shop
vacuum system to be connected.
TO ATTACH THE DUST BAG
1. Fit the dust bag (AQ) to the dust port (N) as
shown in Figure 9.
TO EMPTY THE DUST BAG
1. Remove dust bag (AQ) from the saw and
gently shake or tap the dust bag to empty.
2. Reattach the dust bag back onto the dust
port (N).
You may notice that all the dust will not come free from the bag. This will not affect cutting
performance but will reduce the saw's dust collection efficiency. To restore your saw's dust
collection efficiency, depress the spring inside the dust bag when you are emptying it and tap
it on the side of the trash can or dust receptacle.
CAUTION: Never operate this saw unless the dust bag or D
e
WALT dust extractor
is in place. Wood dust may create a breathing hazard.
Cutting With Your Saw (Fig. 3)
If the slide feature is not used, ensure the saw head is pushed back as far as possible and
the rail lock knob (T) is tightened. This will prevent the saw from sliding along its rails as the
workpiece is engaged.
NOTE: DO NOT CUT METALS OR MASONRY WITH THIS SAW. Do not use any
abrasive blades.
NOTE: Refer to Guard Actuation and Visibility in the Adjustments section for important
information about the lower guard before cutting.
CROSSCUTS (FIG. 3, 10)
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made
with the miter arm at the zero degree position. Set and lock the miter arm at zero, hold the
wood firmly on the table and against the fence. With the rail lock knob (T) tightened, turn on
the saw by squeezing the trigger switch (A) shown in Figure 3.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut
through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
When cutting anything larger than a 2 x 4 (51 x 102), use an out-down-back motion with the
rail lock knob (T) loosened. Pull the saw out, toward you, lower the saw head down toward
the workpiece, and slowly push the saw back to complete the cut. Do not allow the saw blade
to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out. The saw may run toward you, possibly
causing personal injury or damage to the workpiece.
WARNING: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury, if your hands are required to be within 6" (152 mm) of the blade
during the cut.
NOTE: The rail lock knob (T) shown in Figure 3 must be loose to allow the saw to slide along
its rails.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often
45º for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 48º left or 48° right. Make the
cut as described above.
When performing a miter cut on workpieces wider than a 2 x 6 that are shorter in length,
always place the longer side against the fence (Fig. 10).
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of
FIG. 10
wood, match the angle as close as possible. Cut the
wood a little too long and measure from the pencil
line to the cut edge to determine which direction to
adjust the miter angle and recut. This will take some
practice, but it is a commonly used technique.
BEVEL CUTS (FIG. 3)
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade
leaning at an angle to the wood. In order to set the
bevel, loosen the bevel lock knob (L), and move the
saw to the left as desired. Once the desired bevel
angle has been set, tighten the bevel lock firmly.
Refer to the Features and Controls section for
detailed instructions on the bevel system.
Bevel angles can be set from 3º right to 48º left.
QUALITY OF CUT
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of
variables. Things like material being cut, blade type,
blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the
quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth
carbide tip) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting; clamp it securely in place.
Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape
on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and
select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to Saw Blades under Optional Accessories.
BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 11A–11D)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting
easier, more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer
than 6" (152 mm) from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence
when cutting. Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released and the blade has