Specifications

sooner rather than later. A high voltage setup can be just as fast as a low voltage one, generate
the same amount of wheelie-popping power, but will also allow you to often use lower spec
batteries for the same given power levels. That said, if you simply increase the voltage without
changing the motor, there is a higher load on the motor and batteries, which will reduce your
runtime. If you gear down however to the same speed as you were achieving with the lower
voltage, then runtime will increase some degree. Obviously there is a monetary issue that cannot
be ignored with regards to choosing a higher voltage esc & batteries, but whenever possible, it is
a route that should be exploited as it can save you money in the log run.
Is there such a thing as too much power?
Most would say no, but there is ofcourse. In a 10lb MT, you need a minimum of about 500watts
to have 'fun', but most setups will be pushing the 900-1300watt region, with much higher peaks
(under acceleration). Generally speaking, an XL or 1515 sized motor would be plenty, but for
speed runs you might consider a larger 1521 or 1527 motor; these are truelly giants, but if you
want to exceed the ~70mph world record for an Emaxx (HPI cheated with their touring car
Wheelieking, bunch of goits), then you will need a lot of motor to do it.
Why cant I use the MambaMax system in my MT?
As it says on the CastleCreations website, the MM system is designed for use in 1/10 stadium
trucks, such as the Traxxas Rustler, Stampede and Bandit sized models. The Emaxx and Erevo
are nearly twice the weight, and 4wd, which places too great a load on the little CC36 motors.
The same is true of the Traxxas Velineon/ VXL systems, only those are limited to 3s lipo, making
them a far from ideal choice; the only saving grace is that they use a larger motor than the MM
system, but still not big enough really.
I thought the MambaMax could only run on 3s lipo?
True. However, with a few simple modifications, it can be made to run reliably on 4s lipo or 12
nimh cells, or 5s A123. The built in BEC isn’t efficient enough at higher voltages than about 3s
lipo to power the Rx and servo(s), so it can cause the esc to overheat and thermal. The solution
is to take the load off of the BEC by removing the redwire from the Rx lead, and running an
external power source. This can be either an RX battery pack that plugs into the Rx battery slot,
or an external BEC/ UBEC, that taps into the main battery or batteries for power, and reduces
that voltage down to something more useable before sending it to the Rx. A small 25-40mm fan
is also very useful, and can be ran from the Rx if it is a ~6v item, or the main batts if it’s a ~12v
item. Finally, it is recommended to use an extra capacitor to help the esc reduce its temps
further, such as the older style Novak Hvmaxx power cap. However, any cap or caps totalling
2000-4000uf will suffice, but they must ideally be the Low ESR variety, and rated for 105*C in
order to be of much benefit. Wire it in parallel to the main + and – wires, as near to the esc as
possible. When this is done correctly, the esc will run cool and strong with most XL/ 1515 type
motors, such as the 9XL or 1515 1y on 4s lipo.
Can I go BL for cheap?
Yes. A cheap reliable setup would be the MMpRO esc, a feigao 9XL, and a pair of mid-range 2s
lipos. That should come in under about $250-300 for everything you need pretty much.
A new HvMaxxPro system can be had for about $190 on ebay, and that will work fine with 12-14
nimh cells, as well as a pair of mid-range 2s lipos. A forwards only esc would be cheaper still, but
the lack of brakes makes it a poor choice for a normal Emaxx or Erevo; a nitro conversion is a
different story however.
I have more money than sense, what do you recommend?
A Plettenberg BigMaxximum, 6s lipo, MMM esc. Hold onto your hat…