Usage Guide

Daltile does not manufacture installation products or tile cleaning/maintenance products. Daltile provides
the information below to its customers as an information source only. Please contact an installation product
manufacturer directly, PRIOR to usage, to obtain proper handling instructions, application instruction and
warnings concerning potential health hazards for any product contemplated for use. Daltile also strongly
recommends testing a small area PRIOR to usage of any installation/tile cleaning/maintenance product to
determine whether the product serves its intended purpose.
SAFETY PRECAUTION TO CUSTOMERS
The products described in this document may have chemicals that cause reactions in certain individuals. Daltile
strongly recommends the use of safety glasses, respirators (masks) and gloves in handling any materials
that contain chemicals. Daltile recommends the proper disposal of any scrap tile/stone, installation and/or
maintenance products discussed herein.
Natural stone has its own unique qualities that not only distinguish it from man-made materials, but also should
be considered in selecting it for a particular project. Stone is not manufactured; it is a product of nature. Blocks
are removed from the quarry, slabs are cut from these blocks, and the slabs are further fabricated into the final
stone to be installed. Each block is dierent; each slab is dierent. Skillful blending or matching of the dimension
stone blocks, veneer panels, tops, etc., results in a beautiful blending of nature’s variety and man’s design.
“Uniformity of material,” when applied to natural stone, is a term of relative value that needs to be understood
when making a selection.
To ensure your natural stone products will provide you with a lifetime of aesthetics and utility, proper maintenance
is crucial. Natural stone products are porous by nature and require a dierent maintenance program than
traditional ceramic tile.
NEW INSTALLATION
Sealing is strongly recommended for newly installed natural stones to provide maximum stain
protection. Be careful to select a high quality sealer to protect your natural stone.
• Pre-Grout Sealing
Due to the narrow grout joints customarily preferred, a non-sanded grout is strongly recommended
for natural stone installations with a grout joint smaller than 1/8". (Grout joints larger than 1/8"
should use sanded grout.) This type of grout has very fine particles of cement, polymers, and
color pigments that can penetrate the microscopic pores of the stone surface, where they become
trapped and may appear as a stain in the stone. Therefore, all travertine, slate, tumbled stone,
limestone, honed granites and any stones with a textured surface (such as flamed or scraped)
should be sealed prior to the grouting process to protect them from staining. The application
of a good quality sealer should be used as a pre-grout sealer and applied again during the final
sealing process once the installation is finished.
• Sealing
A premium natural look penetrating/impregnating sealer is the normal choice on polished or
honed marble, travertine, limestone, granite, or where the natural color of a slate is desired. A
stone enhancer sealer is often used on tumbled, brushed stones, where a darker, enriched or
highlighted character is desired. When choosing either one of these two types of sealers, make
sure the brand you have chosen is formulated to provide maximum stain protection for stone
products. Stone products should be tested periodically to ensure that the sealer is working
effectively. Penetrating/impregnating stone sealers are a no-sheen, natural look sealer that can
be water-based or solvent-based, good for interior and exterior applications. Most quality sealers
of this type are rated to protect the stone for several years.
Stone enhancer sealers are also a no-sheen, penetrating/impregnating sealer that is formulated to
darken, enrich, and highlight the natural color and beauty of stone products. They will rejuvenate
and improve the appearance of worn and weathered stone. However, they will also darken the
color of grout joints. They are, generally, suitable for interior and exterior use, and rated to protect
the stone for several years.
Always reference manufacturers’ literature for specific information on the duration of the sealer’s
protection and make sure that the sealer is applied in strict accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions.
ROUTINE STONE CARE
Natural stone requires a different maintenance routine than traditional, man-made ceramic tile.
Many of the cleaners acceptable for use on ceramic tile can stain, damage, or dull stone. Dirt
and dust will scratch the surface of stone. Therefore, stone floors should be vacuumed or dust
mopped frequently to remove abrasive agents from the stone surface. Natural stone should be
cleaned with neutral cleaners specifically designed for stone. These cleaners contain no acids and
are concentrated neutral pH cleaners that will not affect existing sealers or other types of coatings.
Stone cleaners should never contain acid or bleach. Acids, even a light solution of vinegar and
water, will etch and eventually damage many varieties of natural stone. A solution of the cleaner
and water mixed to manufacturer instructions should be applied to the tile surface with a sponge
or mop. On walls, kitchen counters, or vanity tops, a spray bottle can be used to apply the cleaning
solution. Allow sitting per manufacturer recommended specified amount of time. Agitate with a
sponge, synthetic mop, soft bristle brush, or through the use of a floor-scrubbing machine with soft
brushes. Mop up dirty solution and buff dry. Be sure to change out the cleaning solution every 100
square feet to avoid reintroducing dirty water during the cleaning process. Rinse thoroughly with
clean water when finished. Make sure to always limit the time water puddles and sits on any type
of natural stone and mop dry as soon as possible. Some textured stones may require a different
cleaning method or additional procedures not specified in this document.
HEAVYDUTY STONE CLEANING
When stone areas have been neglected, you will need to use a heavy-duty stone cleaner and
degreaser to effectively remove dirt, grease, grime, waxes, and floor finishes. These cleaning
products are concentrated and designed to deep clean the stone without damaging it. Apply the
solution of the cleaner and water mix per manufacturer instructions to the stone surface with a
sponge or mop. Allow to stand for manufacturer-specified amount of time. Agitate with a sponge,
synthetic mop, soft bristle brush, or through the use of a floor-scrubbing machine with soft brushes.
Mop up dirty solution and buff dry. Be sure to change out the cleaning solution every 100 square feet
to avoid reintroducing dirty water during the cleaning process. Rinse thoroughly with clean water
when finished. Make sure to always limit the time water puddles and sits on any type of natural
stone and mop dry as soon as possible.
STAIN REMOVAL
A stone poultice can be used to remove stains and grout haze from stone. Poultice is a fine, non-
acidic, absorptive clay cleaning powder that removes stains and light cementitious grout haze from
polished and unpolished natural stone. Stone poultice efficacy depends on the nature of the stain
and how long the stain has been in the stone. Base the selection of the type of poultice on the
nature of the stain. If the stain is too old or has penetrated the stone too deeply, a poultice may not
be enough to remove it. Spills should always be cleaned up as soon as possible.
CAUTION: Poultice may dull the shine of the polished stone. If this occurs you will need to use a
marble polish to restore the natural shine.
RESTORATION
If your natural stone floor has been damaged or is worn, we recommend that you contact a
professional stone restoration company.
SOME RECOMMENDATIONS FOR USING NATURAL STONE:
Green Marbles & Serpentines: A mechanism exists in many green colored marbles and serpentines that produces
a warp in the tile when exposed to water, or a water-based adhesive. Since all standard portland-based thinset
compounds are water activated, setting these stones in standard thinset will likely warp the freshly set tiles.
The only failsafe method for setting these stones is to use epoxy-based thinset. Research is encouraged on the
particular stone species that is being installed, because some green marbles and serpentines exist that do not
exhibit this behavior, and therefore can be installed with water-based adhesives. Other green stones exist that
only mildly exhibit this behavior, and can be successfully installed using thinset with reduced water volumes,
or by wetting the exposed surface of the tiles after installation to provide balanced saturation levels on both
surfaces.
Fiberglass Mesh Reinforcement: Many stone products exist on the commercial market with a mesh reinforcement
adhered to the back surface of the slab or tile. The adhesive used to attach the mesh is not uniform within the
industry, but is commonly an epoxy or polyester based adhesive. Portland cement based adhesives will not
reliably bond to this surface. The use of epoxy based thinset is required to provide adequate bonding of these
tiles.
Staining of Light Colored Marbles and Limestones: Light colored marbles and nearly all limestones
are subject to staining from grey portland cement components in thinset adhesive. Only white
thinsets are to be used when installing these stones.
Sanded Grouts: The sand found in sanded grout compounds is generally harder than any of the
calcium carbonate based stones (limestones, travertines, marble, onyx). The use of a sanded grout
with these materials, particularly if polished, will result in unsightly scratches on the surface finish
of the stone tile.
Filled Voids in Travertine: Travertine, due to its unique method of formation, will typically include
voids within the stone fabric. Most commonly, these holes will be filled at the fabrication site with
either cementitious or resinous filler. Particularly in the case of cross cut tiles, many voids can exist
just below the finished surface, concealed only by a slight shell of stone material. This concealment
prevents detection and filling of this void in the factory. Once in service, a concentrated load on a
small area (commonly from a spike heeled shoe, or a heavily loaded service cart with small diameter
wheels) will fracture the thin shell of stone, exposing the void below. This is a common and expected
occurrence in travertine flooring, and several return visits to the installation will be required to fill
these voids as they appear.
Pinholes in Marble: On a much smaller scale than the voids found in travertine, many marbles may
have pinholes visible in the face of the material. Frequency can be as high as 100 or more per square
foot. This is not considered a defect, but rather a natural characteristic of the material.
Excessive Depth of Thinset: Many stone varieties, particularly the softer marbles, limestones, and
travertines, are extremely vulnerable to non-uniform shrinkage of thinset adhesives. The shrinkage
during cure of the thinset can actually warp the tile enough to produce an extremely fine, although
visible, crack in the stone. Extreme care should be exercised in substrate prep and installation
to provide a uniform depth of thinset adhesive that is within the minimum and maximum depths
prescribed by the adhesive manufacturer.
NATURAL STONE CARE AND MAINTENANCE GUIDE
DALTILE.COM
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