Enforcer 7 Direct Drive Manual

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5. Ride height
The ride height is the distance between the track and the bottom of the chassis. For most tracks the normal ride height
should be 12mm in the rear and 11mm in the front. A little more ride height in the rear is usually good because the rear
of the car will squat under acceleration. Ride height is adjusted using the threaded collars on the springs. Ride height
can be lowered for extremely smooth high bite tracks, and can be raised if the chassis is bottoming out.
6. Cross-weight
Cross-weight which is sometimes referred to as “wedge” can help tighten or loosen the car. Since oval racing consists
only of left turns, there is less need to keep the weight of the car equally balanced between the left and right side tires.
Increasing the spring tension on the left rear and right front shocks will add weight to those corners and make the car
tighter. Doing the opposite will make it looser. Be careful not to go too far, excessive cross-weight can upset the ride
height and not allow the suspension to work properly. A set of scales is required to measure cross-weight and should be
measured on a level surface with the car “ready to race”.
7. Droop
Droop is the distance the tires can drop before they lose contact with the track when the chassis is lifted. Droop can be
limited by the use of droop screws or spacers inside the shocks. Limiting the droop in the front suspension will give the
car more steering and limiting rear droop can provide more rear side bite. However a car with little or no droop will not
handle the bumps in the track as well and can cause a car to be erratic. A typical high bite dirt oval car will be set up
with less droop in the front compared to the rear.
8. Rear steer
Rear steer is created with the use of the adjustable rear arms. Because the car spends a great amount of time turning
left, it is more efficient to have the rear tires help with the steering. The amount of rear steer needed largely depends on
the track. Tighter turns require more rear steer. The most common setting is 4 degrees in on the left rear and 0 degrees
on the right rear. To help the car turn more, try 6 degrees in on the left and 1 degree out on the right. To make the car
drive straighter try 3 degrees in on the left rear and 1 degree in on the right rear. This is also a very easy adjustment to
make before a race to quickly adapt to a changing track surface.
9. Other adjustments
The adjustments above account for most of the changes needed to dial the car into a given track. Other adjustments are
included in the car such as camber, Ackermann, wheelbase, front track, shock angle, etc. Even more option parts are
available such as sway bars, optional caster blocks and front suspension mounts. Please visit the Tech Center page at
www.customworksrc.com for the full setup glossary and explanation of these options. Also you will find a PDF copy of
this manual as well as blank set-up sheets and proven racer’s set-ups.
Preventive Maintenance
RC cars have many moving parts which will wear over time. The normal wear of these parts as well as dirt from the track
and occasional crashes require you to keep your car well maintained for optimal performance. Weekly maintenance
should include:
 Remove and clean wheels and tires. Re-groove if needed.
 Check for “gritty” ball bearings. Clean and re-lube or replace as needed.
 Remove shocks from the car, remove springs from the shocks and check for normal movement.
 With the tires and shocks removed, check suspension movement and make sure it moves freely but without too
much slop. Even a small amount of binding caused by a bent pin, dirt, etc can cause erratic handling.
 Remove CVDs and check for excess slop or wear. Clean and re-lube.
 If differential is not smooth, sand or replace rings and rebuild. Make sure differential is not slipping on the track.
 Check for loose screws.
 Check for any bent or broken parts.