Enforcer 7 Direct Drive Manual

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patterns below to start. Cross-grooves on the rear tires should be roughly ¼” apart for medium bite tracks and 3/8”
apart for higher bite surfaces. Next the tires should be prepped with a traction additive. We have found Dr. Witt’s Magic
“It” to be one of the most consistent traction additives available. Other more aggressive traction additives can over-
soften the tires and are often not consistent over the length of a race. The final step is to scuff the tires. This can be
accomplished by driving counter clockwise on a slightly abrasive concrete or paved surface but it best done on the track
where the tires are going to be used. Usually the drier the track is the more quickly the tires will break in. The tire
grooves will develop a slight taper when properly broken in, and should have noticeably more grip on the track compared
to when they were new. After a race, tires should be cleaned with a mild degreaser spray and rag, allowed to dry, and
traction additive re-applied. When the tires wear, re-cut the grooves to the original depth. If tires are wearing out
quickly, consider using a harder compound tire.
2. Shocks
If tires are 50% of handling, shocks are probably the next 30%. Now that you’ve done all the work to make a great set
of tires, it’s the shock’s job to keep them on the track as much as possible. We’ve found the 9lb rear and 8lb front
springs to be the best combination for this car and honestly we don’t change them too often. Stiffer or softer springs can
be used to achieve different results. Too stiff or too soft can quickly move the car’s set up out of the ballpark, so test
accordingly and go back to the stock springs if you are struggling. Another important adjustment in the shocks is the
dampening which is controlled by the pistons and shock oil. The smaller the piston holes and the heavier the oil, the
greater the dampening. Dampening requirements will vary from track to track depending on how bumpy the track is and
the size and spacing of the bumps. If your car appears to be skidding as it enters a turn, you likely have too much
dampening and should change to a lighter oil or larger hole piston. If the tires appear to be oscillating and bouncing, the
problem is likely not enough dampening. Fix by using a smaller hole piston or heavier shock oil. Getting the dampening
right for a given track will require some trial and error but is critical in keeping the tires on the ground allowing the car to
accelerate and turn effectively. Try to use shock tuning to get the car through the bumps smoothly before attempting to
use it to tighten or loosen the car.
3. Wing adjustment
The stock wing placement should be used as the starting point for most tracks. The wing can be moved into the farthest
forward position on extremely high-bite tracks where rear bite is plentiful. When looking for more rear bite on a slick
track, the wing should be moved toward the rear of the car. The wing angle can also be increased and will give the car a
more “planted” feel but at the expense of aerodynamic drag.
4. Camber links and Roll Centers
The hinge pin and camber link positions described in the kit instructions provide the standard roll center locations for this
car. Both front and rear camber links can be shortened by using optional holes included. Shortening the camber links
will cause the car to react quicker at the expense of stability. Front and rear can be adjusted independently to achieve
the proper chassis balance for a given track condition.
Lowering the inner camber link location will raise the roll center and cause the chassis to roll less in corners. Less roll is
generally better for conditions where traction is very high. Also be aware that lowering and/or shortening the camber
links will increase camber gain as the suspension compresses.