Rocket 4 Manual

Body Assembly

A 10” wide Late Model body such as the Custom Works Mountaineer is recommended for

this car. Be sure the body is mounted high enough to allow the front wheels to travel to

full compression without hitting the body. Cut the body support posts so that the body is

just touching them when mounted.

Congratulations! The assembly process is nearly complete. Install wheels and tires of

your choice using the included wheel nuts.

Basic set-up – use the included turnbuckle wrench to fine tune the steering and camber

links. Begin with a slight amount of toe-out on the front wheels. Make sure the servo

saver is centered when the wheels are centered. Adjust the camber links so that all 4

tires lean to the left slightly (1 degree.)

Setup and Tuning

The standard build settings for the kit will provide a good starting point for an average “loose dirt” track. We’ve done our

best to provide the racer with the best possible car, however it is the tuning of the car to the particular driver and track

conditions that will make it a consistent winner. The following tuning tips can be used to dial the car into a specific track

and situation. Each section is listed by order of importance.

1. Tires

Handling is the most important factor in dirt oval racing when it comes to lower lap times and winning races and at least

50% of handling is in the tires. Some racing tracks and organizations require a spec tire. Other tracks may allow any

type of tire to be run. Regardless of the rules, it is important to choose the best option available for the track and

conditions. Clean your tires with a mixture of Simple Green and water after running. For some tracks, breaking in the

tires and/or adding a chemical prep can improve bite – the best advice is to ask another racer(s) who is fast at a track

what works best. If tires are wearing out quickly, consider using a harder compound tire.

2. Shocks

If tires are 50% of handling, shocks are probably the next 30%. Now that you’ve done all the work to make a great set

of tires, it’s the shock’s job to keep them on the track as much as possible. We’ve found the 6lb rear and 5lb front

springs to be the best combination for this car and honestly we don’t change them too often. Stiffer or softer springs can

be used to achieve different results. Too stiff or too soft can quickly move the car’s set up out of the ballpark, so test

accordingly and go back to the stock springs if you are struggling. Another important adjustment in the shocks is the

dampening which is controlled by the pistons and shock oil. The smaller the piston holes and the heavier the oil, the

greater the dampening. Dampening requirements will vary from track to track depending on how bumpy the track is and

the size and spacing of the bumps. If your car appears to be skidding as it enters a turn, you likely have too much

dampening and should change to a lighter oil or larger hole piston. If the tires appear to be oscillating and bouncing, the

problem is likely not enough dampening. Fix by using a smaller hole piston or heavier shock oil. Getting the dampening

right for a given track will require some trial and error but is critical in keeping the tires on the ground allowing the car to

accelerate and turn effectively. Try to use shock tuning to get the car through the bumps smoothly before attempting to

use it to tighten or loosen the car.

3. Motor & Battery location

The Rocket 4 is equipped to be run as a rear motor or mid motor car. The battery can also be moved left to right and

forward and back. This provides four general options of chassis set up.

Rear Motor/Battery Center – delivers the most forward drive. Best for tracks with low grip

Rear Motor/Battery Left – will help the car rotate better. Use for medium grip tracks

Mid Motor/Battery Center – more nimble car, but with less forward drive. Use when rear grip is plentiful.

Mid Motor/Battery Left – most aggressive setup for high grip. Will generate best corner speed if grip is very high.