Professional Shop Manual Z-Force S NOTE: These materials are for use by trained technicians who are experienced in the service and repair of outdoor power equipment of the kind described in this publication, and are not intended for use by untrained or inexperienced individuals. These materials are intended to provide supplemental information to assist the trained technician. Untrained or inexperienced individuals should seek the assistance of an experienced and trained professional.
Table of Contents Chapter 1: Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Professional Shop Manual intent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Description of the Z-Force-S . . . . .
Chapter 7: Electrical System ..............................................................................87 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 RMC Module . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Key switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 RMC Module . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fixed load testers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Conductance testers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Battery discharge test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Storage of batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Electrical Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
IV
Introduction CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION Professional Shop Manual intent This Manual is intended to provide service dealers with an introduction to the mechanical aspects of the Z-ForceS riding mower. • Detailed service information about the engine will be provided by the engine manufacturer, in most cases. Disclaimer: The information contained in this manual is correct at the time of writing. Both the product and the information about the product are subject to change without notice.
Z-Force-S Assembly Torque specifications may be noted in the part of the text that covers assembly, they may also be summarized in tables along with special instructions regarding locking or lubrication. Whichever method is more appropriate will be used. In many cases, both will be used so that the manual is handy as a quick-reference guide as well as a step-bystep procedure guide that does not require the user to hunt for information.
Introduction Model and Serial Numbers The model and serial number tag can be found under the seat. See Figure 1.2. Model number Serial number The serial number is located to the right of the model number as shown above. See Figure 1.2. Figure 1.2 The model number is 17AI5BHB010. The break down of what the number mean is as follows: 1 ...............................................................................................Residential machine ....7 ....................................................
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Engine Related Parts CHAPTER 2: ENGINE RELATED PARTS This chapter will cover the engine accessories that are manufactured by Cub Cadet. IMPORTANT: The engine is manufactured by Kawasaki. Refer to the Kawasaki manual for engine specific service information. Muffler Remove the muffler by following these steps: Bumper 1. Remove the six nuts and bolts (three on each side) that hold the rear bumper in place using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 2.1. 2.
Z-Force-S Fuel tank removal/replacement Remove/replace the fuel tank by following these steps: ! CAUTION Gasoline and its vapors are extremely flammable. Use common sense when working around the fuel system 1. Clamp off the fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel filter. 2. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tank at the fuel filter. 3. Drain the fuel into an approved container. Fuel filter Fuel line from the fuel tank Figure 2.3 4.
Brakes CHAPTER 3: BRAKES Brake system description The Z-Force-S uses twin HydroGear transmissions to drive the rear wheels. The hydraulic action of the transmissions will provide the braking for the mower while it is in motion. There is a friction brake on the transmission, but it is used as a parking brake. NOTE: Mowers equipped with a 48” deck have HydroGear EZT transmissions with the brakes on the inboard side of the transmissions (shown below).
Z-Force-S Brake adjustment NOTE: When performing a brake adjustment, inspect the brake components for signs of wear or damage. 1. Block the front wheels. 2. Lift and safely support the rear of the mower. Castellated nut NOTE: Make sure the parking brake is released. 3. Remove the cotter pin locking the castle nut on the brake caliper. See Figure 3.3. 4. Back the castle nut off a few turns using a 9/16” wrench.
Brakes Brake puck/rotor replacement On HydroGear transmissions, the brake pucks are wearing parts that will need to be serviced from time to time. If a mower is operated with the parking brake dragging, the pucks will wear out rapidly and the brake rotor will develop hot spots. If the mower is operated long enough, the rotor may have grinding marks on it with excessively worn pucks. ! CAUTION If the rotor shows hot spots or any other signs of damage, including warpage, it must be replaced.
Z-Force-S 5. Remove the front mounting bolt, allowing the caliper to swing down. See Figure 3.7. 6. The outboard brake puck should fall out when the brake caliper swings down. If it did not, it can be removed now. Caliper Figure 3.7 7. Slide the brake rotor off to reach the inboard brake puck. See Figure 3.8. 8. Remove the caliper for inspection when servicing the brake pucks. To do this, remove the rear bolt loosened in step 4. Inboard brake puck Figure 3.8 9.
Brakes 13. Place a new puck into the caliper. See Figure 3.10. NOTE: A piece of scotch tape may be used to hold the new brake pucks in place for assembly. The tape will grind away when the brakes are applied. 14. Place a new brake puck into the recess in the transmission. Use a piece of scotch tape to hold it in place. 15. Slide the brake rotor in place, shoulder out. Brake caliper re-assembled Figure 3.10 16. Mount the brake caliper to the transmission.
Z-Force-S Brake shaft assembly To remove/replace the brake shaft: 1. Remove the cutting deck by following the procedures described in Chapter 8: Cutting Decks and Lift shaft. 2. Lift and safely support the rear of the mower. 3. If the parking brake is set, release it. 4. Disconnect the brake springs. See Figure 3.11. Brake springs Figure 3.11 5. Disconnect the link that runs from the idler bracket to the brake shaft by removing the cotter pin. See Figure 3.12. Cotter pin Link Figure 3.12 6.
Brakes Spring 7. Remove the extension spring that runs from the brake lever to the brake shaft. See Figure 3.14. 8. Remove the nut and shoulder bolt that attaches the brake lever to the brake shaft using a 9/16” wrench and a 3/4” wrench. See Figure 3.15. 9. Remove the clamps (one on each side) that hold the brake shaft to the frame of the mower. Use a 1/2” wrench. Brake lever Brake shaft Figure 3.14 9/16” wrench 3/4” wrench Clamp 10.
Z-Force-S Parking brake lever To remove/replace the parking brake lever: 1. Remove the cutting deck by following the procedures described in Chapter 8: Cutting Decks and Lift shaft. 2. Move the parking brake lever to the “OFF” position. 3. Remove the extension spring that runs from the brake lever to the brake shaft. See Figure 3.16. Spring Brake lever Brake shaft NOTE: When the parking brake lever is in the “ON” position, this spring pulls on the lever applying pressure to the parking brake switch.
Brakes 8. Carefully raise the control panel enough to gain access to the inside of the control pod. 9. Disconnect the spring that runs from the parking brake lever to the frame of the mower. See Figure 3.19. Parking brake spring Figure 3.19 10. Remove the nut and shoulder bolt that attach the brake lever to the brake shaft using a 9/16” wrench and a 3/4” wrench. See Figure 3.20. 9/16” wrench 11. 3/4” wrench Remove the parking brake lever. Clamp Figure 3.20 12.
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Body CHAPTER 4: BODY Floor pan Tilt steering pedal To remove/replace the floor pan: 1. Remove the deck by following the procedures described in Chapter 8: Decks and Lift Shafts. 2. Remove the two screws that hold the tilt steering pedal using a T-30 torx driver. See Figure 4.1. 3. Remove the tilt steering pedal. 4. Remove the rear nut, bolt and spacer from the deck lift indexing bracket using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 4.2. 5. Remove the clevis pin from the deck lift indexing bracket.
Z-Force-S 8. Remove the reverse pedal using a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 4.3. 9. Remove the drive pedal using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 4.3. Drive pedal Reverse pedal Figure 4.3 10. Remove the eight screws that hold the floor pan to the frame using a T-30 torx driver. See Figure 4.4. Long screw NOTE: The two outboard screws next to the seat box are longer than the rest. They also pass through a pair of spacers. 11. Lift the floor pan off of the mower. Long screw Figure 4.
Body Left control console To remove/replace the left side control console: left control panel 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the deck by following the procedures described in Chapter 8: Decks and Lift Shafts. ! CAUTION 3. Screws Release the parking brake before the control panel. Remove the two screws from the underside of the left control panel using a T-30 torx driver. See Figure 4.6.
Z-Force-S 6. Disconnect the engine harness from the main harness. See Figure 4.8. 7. Disconnect the starter cable. See Figure 4.8. Starter cable Engine harness connector Figure 4.8 8. Remove the grip from the parking brake lever. See Figure 4.9. 9. Remove the two screws that hold the left control panel to the seat box assembly using a T-30 torx driver. See Figure 4.9. 10. Remove the two screws that hold the control panel to the control consoles using a T-30 torx driver. Grip Screws Figure 4.
Body 14. Disconnect the deck lift assist spring. See Figure 4.11. NOTE: The lift assist spring exerts a lot of force. Lift assist spring Figure 4.11 15. Remove the nuts and bolts that hold the utility bin bracket to the control console using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 4.12. Nuts 1/2” wrench Figure 4.12 16. Remove the two screws that hold the rear of the control console to the seat box assembly using a T-30 torx driver and a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 4.13.
Z-Force-S 17. Remove the screws that hold the front of the control console to the front of the seat box assembly using a T-30 torx driver and a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 4.21. 18. Gently pull the harness through the hole in the console while lifting it off of the mower. 19. Install the control console by following the previous steps in reverse order. 20. Test drive the mower in a safe area before returning it to service. Screws Figure 4.
Body Right control console To remove/replace the right side control console: 1. Choke cable Disconnect the choke and throttle cables from the engine. See Figure 4.15. NOTE: Paint marking and color coding the cables will make reassembly easier. NOTE: On mowers equipped with the 60” decks, remove the deck by following the procedures described in Chapter 8: Decks and Lift Shafts. Throttle cable Figure 4.15 right control panel 2.
Z-Force-S NOTE: On mowers equipped with a 60” deck, disconnect the deck lift assist spring. Lift assist spring Figure 4.18 6. Remove the nuts and bolts that hold the fuel tank bracket to the control console using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 4.19. 1/2” wrenches Figure 4.19 7. Remove the two screws that hold the rear of the control console to the seat box assembly using a T30 torx driver and a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 4.20.
Body 8. Remove the screws that hold the front of the control console to the front of the seat box assembly using a T-30 torx driver and a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 4.21. 9. Lift the control console off of the mower. 10. Install the control console by following the previous steps in reverse order. 7/16”wrench 11. Test drive the mower in a safe area before returning it to service. T-30 torx Figure 4.
Z-Force-S Seat To remove/replace the seat: 1. Disconnect the seat switch. 2. Remove the four nuts that hold the seat track to the seat base using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 4.22. 3. Lift the seat off of the base. Nuts Seat switch Figure 4.22 NOTE: The track is serviced as part of the seat and is not available separately. 4. Remove the seat switch using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 4.23. 5. Install the seat by following the previous steps in reverse order. 6.
Body Seat box assembly Battery To remove/replace the seat box assembly: 1. Remove the battery and battery box. See Figure 4.24. 2. Disconnect the seat switch. 3. Remove the seat pivot bolts. See Figure 4.25. 4. Remove the seat from the mower. 5. Disconnect the fuse holder/PTO relay from the seat box. See Figure 4.26. 6. Remove the two screws and nuts that hold the starter solenoid to the seat box. Figure 4.24 Pivot bolt Figure 4.
Z-Force-S 9. Disconnect the reverse switch harness from the conduit clip on the right side of the seat box. See Figure 4.27. Reverse switch harness Figure 4.27 10. Remove the four screws (two on each side) that hold the seat box assembly to the frame using a 1/ 2” wrench. See Figure 4.28. 11. Lift the seat box assembly off of the mower. 12. Install the seat box by following the previous steps in reverse order. 13. Test drive the mower in a safe area before returning it to service.
Drive CHAPTER 5: DRIVE The Z-Force S is built using two different models of HydroGear transmissions. The 48” deck version is equipped with two HydroGear EZT transmissions. The 60” version is equipped with two ZT2800 transmissions. The Hydro-gear shop manual for the EZT transmissions is form number BLN-52622. The Hydro-gear shop manual for the ZT2800 transmissions is form number BLN-52441. These manuals are available through HydroGear.
Z-Force-S 7. Harness clamp Remove the two screws that secure the fan cover to the frame using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 5.3. NOTE: On the mowers equipped with a 60” deck, the screw on the left side also goes through the harness clamp. See Figure 5.3. Insert. 8. Slide the fan cover out of the mower on the side that has the tire removed. Figure 5.3 9. Remove the transmission fans using a 3/8” wrench. 10. Slide the drive belt off of the transmission pulleys. Transmission fans Figure 5.
Drive 13. Slide the engine pulley down far enough to slip the belt off of the pulley. See Figure 5.6. Engine pulley NOTE: Note the direction of the key in the engine pulley. It should be facing down. If the pulley is installed upside down, the belt alignment will be off. NOTE: When installing the engine pulley and electric PTO, coat the crank shaft with anti-seize. This will ease pulley and clutch removal in the future.
Z-Force-S Drive belt adjustment The drive belt is tensioned by a spring loaded idler pulley. When the brakes are applied, the drive belt is declutched. An adjustable linkage connects the tensioning pulley to the brake shaft. A brake link that is out of adjustment will prevent the moveable idler from correctly tensioning and de-tensioning the belt. As the belt wears and stretches, the moveable idler needs to push the belt in further to keep proper belt tension.
Drive EZT transmission removal/replacement Drive control rod spring Bad 1. Remove the deck as described in Chapter 8 Cutting Decks and Lift Shaft. 2. Lift and safely support the rear of the mower. 3. Remove the drive belt by following the procedures described previously in this chapter. NOTE: When removing the belt, remove the wheel of the transmission to be removed. 4. Disconnect the brake rod spring from the cam arm. See Figure 5.9. 5.
Z-Force-S 9. Remove the bolt holding the rear of the transmission to the torque bracket. See Figure 5.12. Torque bracket Bolt Figure 5.12 10. Support the transmission to prevent it from falling while the mounting bolts are removed. 11. Remove the two bolts that fasten the transmission to the frame. See Figure 5.15. 12. Lower the transmission enough to gain access to the by-pass rod. 13. Remove the hair pin clip that secure the by-pass rod to the by-pass lever. See Figure 5.14. 14.
Drive ZT 2800 transmission removal/replacement 1. Remove the deck as described in chapter 8 Cutting Decks and Lift Shaft. 2. Lift and safely support the rear of the mower. 3. Remove the drive belt by following the procedures described previously in this chapter. NOTE: When removing the belt, remove the wheel of the transmission to be removed. Jack stands 4. Release the parking brake. 5. Remove the two screws that hold the expansion tank to the seat box using a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 5.16. 6.
Z-Force-S 11. Remove the nut and bolt that hold the front of the transmission to the frame cross member using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 5.18. Front transmission bolt Figure 5.18 12. Remove the nut, T-bolt and spacer that connect the transmissions to each other. See Figure 5.19. Spacer Nut Figure 5.19 13. Remove the bolt holding the rear of the transmission to the torque bracket. See Figure 5.20. Torque bracket Figure 5.
Drive Transmission mount bolts 14. Support the transmission to prevent it from falling while the mounting bolts are removed. 15. Remove the two bolts that fasten the transmission to the frame. See Figure 5.21. Figure 5.21 16. Lower the transmission enough to gain access to the by-pass rod. 17. Remove the hair pin clip that secure the by-pass rod to the by-pass lever. See Figure 5.14. 18. Lift the by-pass rod off of the by pass lever. 19. Remove the transmission from the mower.
Z-Force-S Drive pedal biasing adjustment The Z-Force-S is equipped with a pedal biasing cam. This cam allows the pedals to be adjusted to increase forward travel speed or reverse travel speed.To adjust the pedal biasing: 1. Remove the floor pan by following the procedures described in Chapter 4 Body. 2. Inspect the bushings that support the forward drive pedal shaft. See Figure 5.23. Forward drive pedal shaft NOTE: Any wear in the bushings will affect pedal travel.
Drive Hydro neutral control adjustment NOTE: Neutral control rarely goes out of adjustment on its own. If it needs adjustment, check for damaged linkage or signs of tampering. ! CAUTION The mower engine and drive system must be operated to complete this procedure. Confirm that no hazards will be incurred by running the engine or operating the drive system. • Work in a well vented area to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning or asphyxiation. • Be careful to avoid contact with hot parts or moving parts.
Z-Force-S Drive control rods 5. Disconnect both of the drive control arms from the speed selector plates. See Figure 5.28. Speed selector plates Figure 5.28 6. Start the engine and advance throttle to maximum RPM. 7. Release the parking brake. 8. Watch both rear tires for movement. See Figure 5.29. NOTE: If there is no wheel movement, the hyrdo transmissions are in neutral and don’t need to be adjusted. Skip ahead to step 13.
Drive 14. Adjust the drive control rods so they slide freely into the hole in the selector plate. Install the hairpin clips. 15. Remove the spring clamp from the seat switch. 16. Lower the mower to the ground. 17. Test the drive system and all safety features before returning the unit to service.
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Steering CHAPTER 6: STEERING Introduction The steering on the Z-Force-S mower works in two phases. • First it will steer like any other riding mower by turning the front wheels. • Second and more importantly, the steering linkage will control the drive output of the rear wheels through the use of two HydroGear transmissions. The steering gear box is connected to the front wheels by tie rods. When the steering wheel is turned, the gear box will turn the front wheels.
Z-Force-S 2. Lock Steering Gear Box in Neutral Position: 2a. Remove the 1/4”-20 plug screw from the steering gear box centering port using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 6.2. 2b. Thread a 1/4”-20x2” bolt into the steering box centering port until you feel it touch the steering rack. 2c. While trying to gently thread the bolt further, slowly rotate the steering shaft back and forth until the bolt seats into the detent in the steering rack. 2d.
Steering Straight edges NOTE: The flat side of the yoke should be parallel to the box section of the frame when the pins are installed. See Figure 6.5. NOTE: A couple of straight edges can be used to check the alignment of the yoke to the frame. See Figure 6.5. If they are not: • Check for a bent yoke. • Remove the yoke and check the gear timing. See the yoke section of this chapter for the proper procedures. Figure 6.5 6. Loosen the jam nuts on both ends of the tie rod(s). See Figure 6.6.
Z-Force-S 10. Adjust the tie rods until the ends line up with their mounting point. See Figure 6.8. 11. Re-attach the tie rod(s). 12. Tighten the jam nuts. 13. Adjust the drive control rods so they slide freely into the hole in the selector plate. Install the hairpin clips. 14. Remove the 1/4”-20x2” screw from the steering gear box. 15. Reinstall the original plug screw in the steering gear box. 16. Install the steering column cover. 17. Remove the 5/16” pins. 18.
Steering Steering gear box removal To remove/replace the gear box: 1 Steering shaft coupler Remove the deck by following the procedures described in Chapter 8: Decks and Lift Shaft. 2. Remove the floor pan by following the steps described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis. 3. Remove the four screws that hold the steering column cover in place using a T-30 torx driver. 4. Loosen the top clamp bolt in the steering shaft coupler using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. 5. Remove the bottom bolt in the steering shaft coupler.
Z-Force-S 8. Disconnect both of the tie rods from the steering gearbox using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 6.12. NOTE: There is a spacer between the tie rod end and the steering rack. Spacer NOTE: The bolt has a special tapered shoulder. Do not replace it with a standard bolt. Tie rod end Figure 6.12 9. Disconnect the reverse switch. See Figure 6.13. Reverse switch Figure 6.13 10.
Steering Gear box mounting bolts 11. Remove the four nuts and bolts (two on each side) that hold the gearbox to the frame using a pair of 1/ 2” wrenches. See Figure 6.15. 12. Lower the steering gearbox out of the mower, sliding it out of the steering shaft coupler. Figure 6.15 hairpin clip NOTE: If replacing the gearbox: 13. Remove the drive control connector plates by: 13a. Remove the cotter pins, washers and clevis pins in the linkages. See Figure 6.16. Connector plate 13b.
Z-Force-S Steering gearbox installation 1. 2. hairpin clip Attach the drive control link connector plates to the steering gearbox. See Figure 6.17. Reverse switch Install the reverse switch. Connector plate Roller Figure 6.17 3. Lock the steering gearbox in the centered position: 3a. Remove the 1/4”-20 plug screw from the steering gear box centering port using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 6.18. 3b.
Steering 6. Insert two 5/16” pins through the holes in the axle castings. The pins should pass through the casting down to the wheel yokes. See Figure 6.20. 5/16” pin Axle casting Figure 6.20 NOTE: The flat side of the yoke should be parallel to the box section of the frame when the pins are installed. See Figure 6.21. The yoke is parallel to the frame If they are not: • Check for a bent yoke. • Remove the yoke and check the gear timing. See the yoke section of this chapter for the proper procedures.
Z-Force-S 8. Lift the steering gearbox into the frame while sliding the gearbox input shaft into the steering shaft coupler. See Figure 6.23. 9. Install the four mounting nuts and bolts. Tighten to a torque of 17 ft lbs (23 Nm). 10. Install the lower coupler bolt. 11. Tighten both coupler bolts to a torque of 72 in lbs (8 Nm). NOTE: Once the steering gearbox is mounted, the locking screw can be backed out to allow the steering shaft to be rotated for easier access to the coupler bolt.
Steering 15. Install the return to neutral spring. See Figure 6.26. Return to neutral spring Figure 6.26 16. Connect the reverse switch. See Figure 6.27. Reverse switch Figure 6.27 Connector plate 17. Connect both of the drive control links by installing the nuts and bolts that attach the connector plates to the drive control link using a pair of 7/16” wrenches. See Figure 6.28. 18. Adjust the drive control links so they slide freely into the hole in the selector plate. Install the hairpin clips. 19.
Z-Force-S Rebuilding the steering gear box To take the steering gear box apart: 1. 2. Remove the steering gear box by following the procedures described in the previous section of this chapter. Hairpin clip Remove the drive control link connector plates: 2a. Clevis pin Remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin. See Figure 6.29. Figure 6.29 2b. Remove the nut, while leaving the bolt in place. 2c. Remove the connector plate on the nut side. 2d.
Steering 5. Lift the upper housing off of the lower housing. NOTE: There is no sealant between the two housings. They should easily slip apart. If they are stuck together, there are three pry points cast into the housings that can be used to separate the housings. See Figure 6.32. Using one of the pry points to separate the housings Figure 6.32 6. Remove the steering rack. See Figure 6.33. 7. Remove the wear block and spring. Steering rack Wear block Figure 6.33 8. Remove the speed cam assemblies.
Z-Force-S 9. Separate the speed cam assemblies by driving out the two roll pins using a 5/32” pin punch and a hammer. See Figure 6.35. 5/32” pin punch Figure 6.35 10. Slide the output bevel gear assemblies off of the speed cams. See Figure 6.36. Output bevel gear assembly NOTE: Marking the left and right speed cams and the left and right hydro arms will make reassembly easier. Hydro arm Speed cam Figure 6.36 11. Separate the output bevel gear assembly by removing the snap ring. See Figure 6.37.
Steering 12. Remove the input sector gear. See Figure 6.38. NOTE: Some gearboxes were built with a spring washer on top of the sector gear. If the sector gear is being replaced, discard the spring washer. Input sector gear Figure 6.38 13. Inspect the input sector gear bushings for damage and/or signs of wear. If they show signs of wear or damage, press both of the bushings out of the input sector gear using a press. Then install new bushings. See Figure 6.39. Inspect the bushings Figure 6.39 14.
Z-Force-S Thin washer 15. Internal cam Remove the internal cam and the thin washer. See Figure 6.41. Figure 6.41 16. Remove both of the bevel gears and the washer on the steering shaft. See Figure 6.42. Bevel gears Washer Steering shaft Figure 6.42 17. Remove the snap ring from the input shaft. See Figure 6.43. Snap ring Figure 6.
Steering 18. Remove the input shaft from the inside of the housing. See Figure 6.44. Input shaft Figure 6.44 Drive out the inner bearing 19. Inspect the bearings. If they are worn or rough, carefully drive the inner bearing out of the upper housing using a pin punch and hammer. See Figure 6.45. Figure 6.45 20. Drive the outer bearing out of the upper housing using a pin or brass punch and hammer. See Figure 6.46. Outer bearing 21. Thoroughly clean and degrease all parts. 22.
Z-Force-S To assemble the steering gear box: 1. Put a dab of 737-0300A DurinaTM grease into each of the bushings in the lower housing. See Figure 6.47. Put a dab of grease in each bushing Figure 6.47 2. Install both of the bevel gears with the rollers in-line with the steering shaft. See Figure 6.48. 3. Install the washer on the steering shaft. Rollers in line with the steering shaft Figure 6.48 4. Place the thick washer over the splines on the sector gear. See Figure 6.49. 5.
Steering 7. Apply a dab of 737-0300A DurinaTM grease to the side of the steering shaft. 8. Install the internal cam so that the rollers on the bevel gears fit inside the groves on the underside of the cam. See Figure 6.50. Figure 6.50 9. Center the cam so that the hole in the sector gear lines up with the center of the void where the wear block goes. See Figure 6.51. right inset. NOTE: A wooden block can be used to hold the cam in place while timing the internal components.
Z-Force-S NOTE: The hydro arms and output bevel gears have master splines to time them to each other. See Figure 6.53. 10d. Install the snap ring. 10e. Repeat for the right output bevel gear assembly. 10f. Slide the bevel gear assemblies onto the speed cam assemblies. Master spline Figure 6.53 11. Place both output bevel gear assemblies on the bench, facing each other. With both assemblies resting on the same points of the speed cam, insert both shafts into the coupler. See Figure 6.54. 12.
Steering 14. Fill the lower housing with 12 oz. of 737-0300A DurinaTM grease. See Figure 6.56. Figure 6.56 15. Install the steering rack and bushings. See Figure 6.57. NOTE: The rack must be centered. When centered, the rack will measure 1.7” from the shoulder to the housing. See Figure 6.57. inset Figure 6.57 IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, test fit the input shaft into the ball bearings for the cover. The input shaft needs to have a slip fit. If it is too tight, clean the shaft with some emery cloth.
Z-Force-S 17. Install the wear block and spring. See Figure 6.59. NOTE: The groove in the wear block faces the bottom of the gearbox housing. Wear block Figure 6.59 18. Press in the upper ball bearing into the upper housing. See Figure 6.60. Press in the upper ball bearing Figure 6.60 19. Press the lower ball bearing into the upper housing. See Figure 6.61. A socket can be used to press in the ball bearing Figure 6.
Steering NOTE: If used, remove the wooden block first. 20. Lower the gearbox cover straight down over the input shaft. NOTE: Removal of the screw and spacer on the right speed cam assembly may help. IMPORTANT: DO NOT force or hammer the cover over the input shaft. That will cause the input shaft to damage the internal cam. If the fit is tight, clean the shaft with emory cloth and try again. The cover does not sit flush with the bottom NOTE: The cover will not sit flush with the bottom housing. Figure 6.
Z-Force-S 24. Install the snap ring on the input shaft. See Figure 6.65. Snap ring Figure 6.65 Reverse switch 25. Install the return to neutral bracket. 26. If the screw and spacer was removed from the speed cam assembly, re-install it. 27. Center the rack and thread a 1/4”-20x2” bolt into the hole in the gear box to lock the gear box in neutral. 28. Install the steering gear box in the mower by following the procedures described in the steering gearbox installation section of this chapter. 29.
Steering Front wheels Remove/ replace the front wheels: 1. Lift and safely support the front end of the riding mower. Axle bolt 2. Remove the axle bolt and nut using a pair of 3/4” wrenches. See Figure 6.67. Figure 6.67 3. Slide the tire and wheel assembly out of the yoke. See Figure 6.68. NOTE: There is a short spacer on each side of the wheel. The short spacers slide over the long spacer that the axle bolt passes through. 4. Slide the long spacer out of the wheel bearings.
Z-Force-S To replace the front wheel ball bearings: 1. Lift and safely support the front end of the riding mower. 2. Remove the front wheel by following the procedures describe in the previous section of this chapter. 3. Drive the bearings out of the wheel hub using a drift or pin punch. See Figure 6.70. Ball bearing Figure 6.70 Brass punch 4. Drive in the new bearings using a brass punch or a tube that has the same O.D. as the bearing. See Figure 6.71. 5. Install the front wheel. 6.
Steering Front yokes Yoke cover To remove/ replace the front yokes: 1 Lift and safely support the front of the riding mower. 2. Remove the front wheel by following the procedures in the front wheel section of this chapter. 3. Pry the yoke cover off using a suitable prying tool. See Figure 6.72. Figure 6.72 Hex screw 4. Align the hole of the inboard steering gear with the hole in the axle casting. 5.
Z-Force-S 10. Install the hex screw with a lock washer and the fender washer. See Figure 6.75. 11. Tighten the hex screw holding the yoke to a torque of 31 ft lbs (42 Nm). 12. Install the yoke cover. 13. Install the front wheel by following the procedures described in the front wheel section of the chapter. 14. Test drive the riding mower in a safe area before returning it to service. Hex screw Figure 6.
Steering Removal of the steering gears To remove the steering gears: 1 Remove the four screws that hold the steering column cover in place using a T-30 torx driver. See Figure 6.76. Screws Figure 6.76 2. Lock the steering gearbox in the centered position: locking screw Figure 6.77 2a. Remove the 1/4”-20 plug screw from the steering gear box centering port using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 6.77. 2b.
Z-Force-S 7. Loosen the jam nuts on both ends of the tie rod(s). See Figure 6.79. Jam nuts Figure 6.79 8. Inboard steering gear Disconnect the tie rod end from inboard steering gear using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 6.80. Figure 6.80 9. Remove the hex screw and washer from the top side of the inboard steering gear shaft in place using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 6.81. NOTE: A 5/16” lock pin or pin punch can be used to lock the inboard steering gear, unless the gear is broken. 10.
Steering Hex screw 11. Remove the hex screw that holds the steering gear to the shaft using a 9/16” wrench. See Figure 6.82. Steering gear shaft 12. Slide the steering gear off of the shaft. NOTE: The shaft has a double-D. It may be necessary to drive it off with a hammer. Steering gear Figure 6.
Z-Force-S Installation and timing of the steering gears To install and time the steering gears: 1. Hex screw Slide the double-D of the steering gear shaft into the double-D hole of the inboard steering gear. NOTE: The inboard steering gear is the same part number for both sides. If the gear is used on the left hand side, the LH stamped into the gear must be facing the hex screw. If the gear is for the right hand side, the RH must be facing the hex screw. See Figure 6.83. 2.
Steering 9. Slide the yoke into the axle casting from the underside. Wave washer NOTE: The flat side of the yoke should be parallel with the box section of the frame. 10. Slide the wave washer over the yoke shaft. Figure 6.86 Hex screw 11. Install the hex screw with a lock washer and the fender washer. See Figure 6.87. 12. Tighten the hex screw holding the yoke to a torque of 31 ft lbs (42 Nm). 13. Attach the tie rod end to the inboard steering gear.
Z-Force-S Tie rods To remove/replace a tie rod: 1. Lift and safely support the front of the mower. 2. Remove the four screws that hold the steering column cover in place using a T-30 torx driver. See Figure 6.88. Screws Figure 6.88 3. 4. Lock Steering Gear Box in Neutral Position: 3a. Remove the 1/4”-20 plug screw from the steering gear box centering port using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 6.89. 3b.
Steering 5. Disconnect the tie rod end from inboard steering gear using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 6.91. gear inboard steering gear Figure 6.91 Tie rod end Spacer 6. Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering gearbox using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 6.92. NOTE: There is a spacer between the tie rod end and the steering rack. 7. Remove the tie rod from the mower. Figure 6.92 8. Remove the tie rod ends. See Figure 6.93.
Z-Force-S 11. Manually move the front wheel yoke until the alignment holes line up. 12. Insert the 5/16” pin. NOTE: The flat side of the yoke should be parallel to the box section of the frame when the pins are installed. 5/16” pin Figure 6.94 13. Adjust the tie rods until the ends line up with their mounting point. See Figure 6.95. 14. Attach the tie rod to the steering rack. NOTE: The spacer must be between the tie rod end and the steering rack. 15.
Steering Steering shaft, bushings and dampener removal To remove the steering shaft: 1 Steering shaft coupler Remove the floor pan by following the steps described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis. 2. Remove the four screws that hold the steering column cover in place using a T-30 torx driver. 3. Remove the steering wheel using a 1/2” wrench. 4. Loosen the top clamp bolt in the steering shaft coupler using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. 5. Remove the bottom bolt in the steering shaft coupler. See Figure 6.9.
Z-Force-S 10. Remove the lower steering shaft bushing. NOTE: The long half of the steering shaft can be inserted through the upper bushing hole and used to tap out the lower bushing. Figure 6.99 To remove the steering column dampener: 11. Remove the steering column dampener pivot bolts using a 9/16” wrench and a 3/4” wrench. See Figure 6.100. Pivot bolts Figure 6.100 12. Remove and discard the cotter pin that secures the end of the dampener to mounting post inside the steering column. See Figure 6.
Steering Pivot bracket 14. Remove the pivot bracket from the dampener using a pair of 17 mm wrenches. See Figure 6.102. NOTE: This dampener has a locking feature. The pin extending from the threaded end of the dampener releases the dampener so that it can extend or retract. See Figure 6.102. Pin Figure 6.
Z-Force-S Steering shaft, bushings and dampener installation 1. Attach the pivot bracket to the end of the dampener using a pair of 17 mm wrenches. See Figure 6.103. NOTE: Apply a small amount of releasable thread locking compound such as Loctite® 242 (blue) to the threads of the dampener. NOTE: The outer nut should be flush with the end of the threaded portion of the dampener. NOTE: This dampener has a locking feature.
Steering 5. Slide the steering shaft and bushing into the bottom of the steering column. E-ring Bushing 6. Align the bushing with the hole in the steering column. 7. Tap the bushing in place using the E-ring on the steering shaft. See Figure 6.106. Figure 6.106 Upper bushing 8. Install the upper bushing into the top side of the steering column. See Figure 6.107. Figure 6.107 9. Install the steering column dampener pivot bolts using a 9/16” wrench and a 3/4” wrench. See Figure 6.108.
Z-Force-S 10. Lower the steering column assembly onto the frame of the mower. Steering column coupler NOTE: Slide the steering shaft coupler over the input shaft of the steering gearbox while lowering the steering column in place. See Figure 6.109. 11. Install the lower coupler bolt. 12. Tighten both of the coupler bolts with a pair of 1/2” wrenches. Figure 6.109 13. Install the six screws that hold the steering column to the frame. See Figure 6.110. 14.
Steering Steering wheel centered 18. Center and install the steering wheel. Steering wheel screw 19. Tighten the steering wheel screw using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 6.112. 20. Remove the 5/16” pins. 21. Test drive the mower in a safe area. Figure 6.
Z-Force-S 86
Electrical System CHAPTER 7: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Introduction This chapter is divided into four sections: • Section 1: About this chapter and precautions • Section 2: Components • This section will describe the location and operation of the electrical components on the mower. Where appropriate, some disassembly or component removal instructions will be included.
Z-Force-S Key switch The Key Switch is similar to those used in a variety of MTD applications since 1999. The difference, in this case, is that it is incorporated in the same housing as the RMC module; the two items are not available separately. See Figure 7.1. 1. RMC Module Front In the OFF position, continuity can be found between the M, G, and A1 terminals. See Figure 7.2.
Electrical System 3. 4. • Symptom: Crank, spark, but no fuel: First check the fuel tank to verify that there is fuel in it. If there is fuel in the fuel tank, test for power at the after fire solenoid. If there is no power there, then check for continuity from B to A1 in the START position. If power is reaching the red wire that connects to the A1 terminal in the start position, the problem lies down stream of the key switch.
Z-Force-S RMC Module RMC Module The RMC Module is in the same housing as the key switch, and is not available separately. For the purpose of diagnosis, it is treated separately. Diagnosis of the module with the key switch introduces too many over-lapping variables. See Figure 7.3. • Principle: To diagnose the module, the simplest approach is to check all of the inputs (safety circuits) that are connected to it.
Electrical System To identify a faulty RMC module: Purple If the RMC module does not function as described, the RMC plug test should be the first step in diagnosis. Green • If the RMC plug test confirms that the safety circuits (inputs) work as designed, yet the RMC module does not work properly, the RMC module is faulty. Yellow/White Red/Black Red • The RMC plug test will give an indication of what the problem is if it is not a faulty RMC module.
Z-Force-S Red wire with black trace • Behavior: There is a red wire with black trace between yellow wire with a black trace and the green wire. This wire provides the module with input from the reverse switch. When the mower is in reverse, this terminal should have continuity to ground. • Circuitry: This wire runs directly to the reverse safety switch on the drive pedal shaft. This is a simple metal tang switch that grounds-out against a bolt.
Electrical System PTO Switch Understanding the PTO switch Figure 7.6 3. 1. A-COM is in the starter inhibit circuit. It is a normally closed (NC) set of contacts. Power coming from the brake switch (key switch in START, brakes ON) flows through the orange wire with black trace to the PTO switch. When the PTO is OFF, and the contacts are closed, the power continues through the orange wire with white trace to the trigger terminal on the starter solenoid. 2. B-COM is in the PTO relay latch circuit.
Z-Force-S Reverse Safety Switch The Reverse Safety Switch is mounted on the right side of the steering gear box. It is the same part number as the parking brake switch. It has two sets of contacts, but only the normally open (N.O.) set is used. See Figure 7.8. • When the plunger is depressed, the contacts are closed providing a ground path to the RMC module. Reverse switch Steering gearbox Figure 7.8 Seat Safety Switch The Seat Safety Switch is mounted inside the seat. It contains two sets of N.O.
Electrical System Starter solenoid The starter solenoid is mounted to the rear frame cross member, under the seat. See Figure 7.10. Starter Solenoid • When the proper safety conditions are met (brake applied, PTO OFF), the orange wire with white trace energizes the windings that magnetize an iron core, pulling the contacts closed between the two heavy posts, connecting battery power to the starter motor. PTO Relay Fuse Figure 7.
Z-Force-S Lighting circuit The Z-Force-S Headlight available as an optional kit. The headlight kit comes with a harness and a rocker switch to turn the headlights on and off. The main harness has a pigtail inside the left pod that the headlight harness plugs into. • There is power to the headlight switch when the key switch is in any of the run positions. • The red wire is connected to the A1 terminal of the key switch.
Electrical System Magneto Once the starter motor spins, we still need spark and fuel to make the engine run. Looking at the circuits that do that: Magneto 1. The ignition sparks are generated by a magneto. The magneto will work as long as the primary windings are not grounded. With the key switch in any position other than off, there is no connection between the M (Magneto) terminal and the G (Ground) terminal. See Figure 7.13. 2. There is an afterfire solenoid on the carburetor.
Z-Force-S +EY 3WITCH h2EVERSE #AUTION -ODEv 3. The A1 terminal on the key switch sends power to: • the afterfire solenoid • the windings of the PTO relay • the PTO switch C-COM terminal • , 3 3YSTEM -ONITOR ! ' !FTERFIRE 3OLENOID ! " - 04/ 3WITCH 'ROUND 'ROUND ! 04/ 2ELAY !T 2EST " the RMC module “A1 pwr” terminal &USE the headlight switch, where used • the system monitor # . # . / #/- • 3TARTER 3OLENOID See Figure 7.15. (EADLIGHT 3WITCH 'ROUND ! PWR 3EAT 3W 0/3 .
Electrical System Run Circuit .H\ 6ZLWFK ³5HYHUVH &DXWLRQ 0RGH´ , 3 $IWHUILUH 6ROHQRLG ! " - With the key switch in the RUN position, the A1 terminal sends power to: 6\VWHP 0RQLWRU ! ' 372 6ZLWFK 'ROUND *URXQG ! 372 5HOD\ $W 5HVW " &USE # 1 & 1 2 &20 6WDUWHU 6ROHQRLG • the afterfire solenoid • the windings of the PTO relay • the PTO switch C-COM terminal • the RMC module “A1 pwr” terminal • the headlight switch, where used • the system monitor See Figure 7.16.
Z-Force-S Run Circuit / Reverse Caution mode. 1. 2. With the key in Reverse Caution mode, A1 gets power from the B terminal, just like the normal run position. .H\ 6ZLWFK ³5HYHUVH &DXWLRQ 0RGH´ In addition, A2 is internally connected to the L terminal. L is normally used for the lighting circuit. 2a. In this case, a separate lighting circuit draws power from A1 / 6 6\VWHP 0RQLWRU $ * $IWHUILUH 6ROHQRLG $ % 0 372 6ZLWFK *URXQG $ *URXQG 372 5HOD\ $W 5HVW % 2b.
Electrical System Engine shut-down circuits .H\ 6ZLWFK * $ $ / 6 0 $IWHUILUH 6ROHQRLG Engine shutdown circuits stop the engine by disabling the ignition and removes power from the afterfire solenoid. Key switch shut-down: See Figure 7.18. The key switch turned to OFF connects the M (Magneto) terminal and A1 to G (Ground). % *URXQG • )XVH 0DJQHWR • The A1 terminal is de-energized.
Z-Force-S Charging circuit How it works 1. When the engine is running, magnets attached to the underside of the flywheel induce A.C. (Alternating Current) in the stator that is mounted beneath the flywheel. See Figure 7.20. 2. The A.C. travels from the stator to and from the regulator/rectifier through the two white wires. Stator NOTE: The magnets inside the flywheel act as a rotor for the charging system. Rotor (magnets in recess) Figure 7.20 3. 4.
Electrical System 5. .H\ 6ZLWFK $ * / 6 0 $ From the harness connector: See Figure 7.22. 5a. The red/white trace wire leads to the 20A fuse. 5b. From the fuse, the wire connects to the starter solenoid, sharing the “hot” post with the battery cable. 5c. The shared post on the starter solenoid provides the final connection for the alternator output to reach the battery.
Z-Force-S 4. System check, to identify the problem The system check consists of: 5. • Stator Check • Regulator Rectifier Check • Down stream Check Stator check: See Figure 7.24. 5a. Key OFF, unplug the stator from the regulate/ rectifier. 5b. Check resistance through the stator using a digital multimeter set to read Ohms. • It should be between 0.1Ω and 0.14Ω. • A high reading indicates a fault in the windings. • A low reading indicates a short in the windings. • There should be a reading of O.
Electrical System 5d. Interpretation: • If the stator fails either or both tests, it is likely to be bad. • If the stator fails the out put test, but passes the resistance test, there is a possibility that the magnets on the rotor (flywheel) have lost their fields. This is theoretically possible, but extremely rare in practice. • It is necessary to remove the flywheel to test the magnets. If the magnets inside the flywheel will draw a steel screwdriver to them, they are good.
Z-Force-S 7. If the regulator/rectifier fails any one of these tests, replace it with a new one. Test # Pos. Probe COM. Probe 1 Housing B+ O.L. (infinite resistance) 2 Housing A.C. 1 O.L. (infinite resistance) 3 Housing A.C.2 > 1.0 Ω (5 second delay) 4 B+ A.C.1 0 Ω (Perfect continuity) 5 B+ A.C.2 > 1.0 Ω 6 B+ Housing > 1.0 Ω 7 A.C.1 B+ 0 Ω (Perfect continuity) 8 A.C.1 A.C.2 > 1.0 Ω 9 A.C.1 Housing > 1.0 Ω 10 A.C.2 B+ O.L. (infinite resistance) 11 A.C.2 A.C.
Electrical System PTO Circuit Basic Operation: See Figure 7.29. .H\ 6ZLWFK ³5XQ´ $ * / 6 372 &OXWFK $ With the key switch in any position other than OFF, the A1 terminal supplies power to the windings of the PTO relay and to the C-COM terminal of the PTO switch. 2. The PTO clutch gets power from the A1 terminal of the key switch through the C-N.O. terminal of the PTO switch when it is turned ON. 3. The PTO clutch gets ground through the PTO relay COM terminal via the PTO relay N.C.
Z-Force-S .H\ 6ZLWFK ³5XQ´ 2. The seat switch contains two sets of contacts. The set with the yellow wire leads to ground when the contacts of the seat switch are closed. See Figure 7.30. 2b. When the operator leaves the seat, the seat switch connects the yellow wire to a ground path. That ground path passes through the RMC module to ground the PTO relay windings when the mower is put in reverse. / $ 372 &OXWFK $ % % 0 & *URXQG 1 & 1 2 &20 2a.
Electrical System Reverse Mower Control (RMC) circuit operation Historically, Cub Cadet home owner mowers have not been able to mow in reverse. This has not been required by any laws or safety regulations, it was just safer for our customers and those around them. In 2005 we introduced the Reverse Mower Control that allows the operator to over-ride the circuit that turns the mower deck off in reverse.
Z-Force-S When the RMC module is armed and activated, it effectively disconnects the reverse switch from the circuit. See Figure 7.34. The RMC module is disarmed and de-activated when the seat is vacated; it gets a ground signal through the second set of contacts in the seat switch. .
Electrical System Electrical diagnosis NOTE: Electrical diagnostic procedures and tools are the same for all Cub Cadet and MTD mowers. This section is written in a way to provide basic trouble shooting skills that can be used on any mower. With a basic understanding of the behavior of electricity and the tools used to measure that behavior, a technician can be about 80% effective at finding electrical problems.
Z-Force-S • Low Voltage: Many electronic devices simply stop working if system voltage falls below a given threshold. If a 12 volt system is run at 11 volts with a failing alternator, electronic controls may stop working. • Bad Grounds: Bad grounds can reduce the effective system voltage, create resistance and heat, and send false signals. This is the single most common breeding ground of electronic gremlins. • Heat and Vibration: Heat and vibration are hard on most mechanical devices.
Electrical System Ohm’s Law Ohm’s Law relates voltage, amperage, and resistance. It states that voltage is the product of resistance times current. • It is written as V = I x R. • In simplest terms, it goes like this: V It takes 1 volt to push 1 amp through a resistance of 1 ohm (1 = 1 x 1). R I Figure 7.35 • This equation can be rearranged using algebra to solve for any one variable. • Those who were traumatized by algebra can represent Ohm’s law as a triangle.
Z-Force-S Kirchhoff’s voltage law Kirchhoff’s voltage law deals with voltage drops. A voltage drop is the amount of voltage used up or “dropped” by resistance in a circuit. Ohm’s law states that V = I x R, every component in a circuit has resistance, even the wires. To push current through resistance, it takes voltage. Kirchhoff’s voltage law states that the sum of all the voltage drops equals the source voltage.
Electrical System Types of circuits There are three ways a circuit can be wired: • Series • Parallel • Series/parallel Series Series circuits are wired so that the current has only one path to follow. If one component in the system fails, the circuit will be broken and whole system will not work. See Figure 7.38. Switch Lamp Battery Figure 7.38 Parallel Lamp Battery Parallel circuits are wired so that current has multiple paths to follow.
Z-Force-S Series/parallel Series/parallel circuits have some sections wired in series and some in parallel. See Figure 7.40. Lamp Battery Lamp Lamp Lamp Switch Figure 7.40 What can go wrong? There are three types of failures that can occur in an electrical circuit: 1. Shorts 2. Opens 3. Increased resistance Shorts A short is when electricity takes a path that it was not designed to take by-passing a component in the circuit.
Electrical System The Tools Equipment needed to diagnose an electrical system: • DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) • Wiring schematic or diagram Equipment that may be useful: • Fused jumper wires. • Test light • Self-powered continuity light • Ammeter • Battery charger • Battery tester • Battery jumper cables • Hand tools to gain access to components. • Flashlight.
Z-Force-S Digital Multi-meter A DMM is the most useful tool to troubleshoot any electrical system. There is an amazing variety of DMMs on the market. Some are very basic, others are tailored to specific industries, and some high-end graphing meters function like oscilloscopes. Even the most basic ones are quite versatile. See Figure 7.41. Uses Voltage Set meter to read “Volts DC ( _ _ _ )” if using an autoranging meter or to an appropriate scale (typically 20 Volts DC) if using a more basic model.
Electrical System Wiring diagram or schematic A wiring or a schematic diagram, and the ability to read it are very important in troubleshooting a circuit. The diagram shows how the circuit was designed and what paths the electricity is suppose to flow. Fused jumper wires Fused jumper wires are handy to help find bad grounds or to jump across switches for testing purposes. ! CAUTION Only use fused jumper wires.
Z-Force-S Ammeters and specialized charging system testers Inductive ammeters are available in many forms. Some are as simple as a gauge to be held against the circuit in question when it is energized. The operating principle is based on magnetic field induced by the current flow. See Figure 7.43. DMM with inductive ammeter feature Inductive ammeter There are two primary reasons to measure amperage. The first is to check the output of a charging system or battery.
Electrical System Batteries Batteries produce flammable and explosive gases, particularly during charging. ! CAUTION • Do not smoke or allow an open flame or heat source near the battery. • Charge batteries in an open area • Wear eye protection and acid resistant gloves when handling batteries. • Do not allow direct metal contact across the posts. This will produce extreme heat that may cause direct burns or ignite flammable gas.
Z-Force-S Checking battery condition There are three things to do when testing a battery: 1. • Visual inspection • Electrolyte test • Operational test Visual inspection • Inspect the battery and battery connections for corrosion. Clean if necessary. Neutralize acid with baking soda, and protect the terminals once they are cleaned. NOTE: Battery cable corrosion is the most common type of increased resistance circuit failures. • Inspect the battery case for signs of damage and missing vent caps.
Electrical System Battery Testers There are four major ways to check a battery: • Electrolyte test using a specific gravity tester (hydrometer) to compare the density of the electrolyte in a fully charged battery to the density of water (water = 1.0 s.g.). • Electrolyte test using a refractometer to check the density of the electrolyte by measuring the degree to which light waves bend when passing through the electrolyte.
Z-Force-S Fixed load testers Fixed load testers (sometimes called toasters) are inexpensive load testers found at any auto parts store. See Figure 7.46. NOTE: Because they have a fixed load value, they do not give most batteries a reliable and safe load test. Most fixed load testers have a load that is more than 50% of the rated CCA of riding mower batteries. This makes them inappropriate to use on smaller pieces of outdoor power equipment. 1. Disconnect the battery cables, ground first. 2.
Electrical System Battery discharge test Occasionally a battery will discharge while sitting unused. To test for a battery that is “leaking” voltage: Figure 7.48 1. Confirm that operator technique is not creating a situation that cases a draw. As an example, if a homeowner habitually turns their equipment off using a safety switch (perhaps vacating the seat with the key switch still ON), that may leave a relay or fuel shut-off solenoid energized. 2. Disconnect and charge the battery fully. 3.
Z-Force-S Electrical Troubleshooting 1. The first step in troubleshooting is to always verify the complaint. Defining and verifying the problem reduces the possibility of misunderstanding and helps clarify the diagnostic approach. 2. The next step is to check the simple stuff first: • Check the fuse or fuses: NOTE: Failure of any fuse is an indication that there is a problem of some sort in the circuit that the fuse protects. • Look for obvious physical damage.
Electrical System 6. Starting with a fully charged battery and battery cable connections that are clean and tight, measure the battery voltage. See Figure 7.49. 7. With the circuit energized, start at either end of the circuit and check for voltage. • If starting at the battery end of a powered circuit, trace it through until power vanishes. • If starting at the ground end of a powered circuit, trace it through to the point that power appears. Figure 7.
Z-Force-S Voltage Drop Test To review: • Ohm’s law states that it takes voltage to push current through a resistance. • Kirchhoff’s voltage law states that the sum of all the voltage drops equals the source voltage. • Combining those two laws, we see that any restriction in a circuit (e.g.: loose connector damaged wire, or corroded terminal) will use up some voltage as the current is pushed through. • A voltage drop test is a way of looking for that voltage.
Electrical System A similar ground-side test on a mower with a slowcranking starter motor can be conducted between the engine block and the negative battery post. See Figure 7.52. Figure 7.52 1. With the starter engaged, this machine exhibited a voltage-drop reading of 0.312 volts, indicating a poor ground connection. 2. Individually, these readings should lead a technician to inspect the connection between the solenoid and the ground path on the first mower (e.g.
Z-Force-S 6. 130 Voltage drop on a good circuit should be less than 0.1 volts. A voltage drop reading on the meter of greater than 0.2 volts indicates a fairly substantial problem that demands attention. • As an example, if the mower had a slow-turning starter, the ground-side voltage drop measured below 0.1 volts, and there was not a parasitic load on the engine (e.g. PTO clutch that is not fully disengaged), it would be logical for the technician to check voltage drop to the starter. See Figure 7.54.
Electrical System Testing switches • Refer to the “COMPONENTS” section of this chapter that describes the function of the individual switches to be tested. • Switches can be tested “hot” by looking for voltage at the appropriate posts. This is not definitive, since the source of the voltage is not always confirmed. Checking for voltage does not work on switches that work by providing a ground path to the magneto primary windings or a solid state control device.
Z-Force-S Diodes What is a diode? A diode acts like a one way valve, allowing current to flow in only one direction. See Figure 7.56. • • Which way does this electrical check-valve work? There will be a band on one end of the diode. The band indicates the negative side of the diode Silver band (-) (+) Most DMMs have the ability to test a diode. electrons flow from the negative to the positive. Figure 7.56 Testing a diode: 1. Isolate the diode in the circuit. 2. Set the DMM to the diode or Ω scale.
Electrical System No continuity Silver band (-) 6. Switch the leads and repeat the test. 7. The meter should indicate no continuity. See Figure 7.59. 8. If the results do not match the above, replace the diode. (+) Figure 7.
Z-Force-S Relay Most of the relays used by MTD or Cub Cadet have five pins. See Figure 7.60. • • • Spade 3 Common Windings: Terminals 1 & 2 are the outer-most of the row of three small spade terminals. When one has power and the other is connected to ground, the relay is energized. Normally, a resistance reading between terminals 1&2 will produce a measurement of about 100Ω. This is the resistance in the windings around an iron core that energize an electromagnet or a solid-state equivalent.
Electrical System Schematic 135
Z-Force-S Headlight harness 136
Decks and Lift Shaft CHAPTER 8: DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT Cutting decks The Z-Force-S comes with the option of a 46” or 60” floating deck. The decks are made of 11-gauge steel and feature welded construction and a sloped noses. The procedure to remove the deck is the same for both of them. To remove the deck: 1. Place the mower on firm level ground and set the parking brake. 2. Raise the deck to its highest cutting height. 3. Insert a 1/2” drive breaker bar into the square hole in the deck idler bracket.
Z-Force-S Cleaning the deck Cleaning debris off of the deck should be done every time the mower is used. It is routine maintenance that will make the deck easier to work on and prolong the life of the deck and spindles. ! CAUTION Debris build up on the mower deck is an unsafe condition. The debris traps heat in the spindles causing damage to the spindle bearings. Debris around the belt can over-heat. To clean the deck while it is removed: 1.
Decks and Lift Shaft Blades The condition of the blades will greatly effect the quality of the cut. The blades should be sharpened and balanced after every five acres, depending on local conditions. A dull blade tears the grass instead of cutting it. Torn grass blades leaves a rough look and makes the grass vulnerable to diseases. Blades need to be examined for damage before sharpening. Blades must be balanced after sharpening to minimize vibrations. Bent blades are a sign of a blade impact.
Z-Force-S 4. Remove the blade. NOTE: The blade spacer and a bearing protector will come off with the blade. The bearing protector and the space must be installed in the same order when installing the blade. See Figure 8.5. 5. Bearing Protector Spacer Install the blade by following the above steps in reverse order. Tighten the blade nut to a torque of 100 - 120 ft-lbs (136 - 163 Nm). NOTE: A 1 1/8” wrench can be used to hold the top of the spindle shaft. Figure 8.
Decks and Lift Shaft PTO belt Some cutting deck designs use a single belt to transfer power from the engine crankshaft directly to the blade spindles. Other cutting deck designs use one belt to transfer power from the engine crankshaft to a second belt that drives the blade spindles. On decks with two belts, the belt that goes around the crankshaft or PTO clutch is referred to in this text as the PTO belt. The second belt is called a deck belt.
Z-Force-S Deck Belt To replace the 46” deck belt: 1. Remove the deck as describe at the beginning of this chapter. 2. Slide the belt off of the pulleys. 3. Remove the spindle covers following the steps described in the spindle section of this chapter. 4. Loosen the belt keepers enough to allow the belt to slip past them. 5. Route the new belt around the pulleys. 6. Tighten the belt keepers. 7. Install the deck as describe at the beginning of this chapter. 8.
Decks and Lift Shaft Belt tension The belt tension for the PTO belt for the 60” deck and the deck belt for the 48” deck is about a 1/2” deflection of the belt with ten pounds of force applied to the belt. To check the belt tension: 1. Locate the longest straight section of the belt. It should be the section from the PTO pulley to the deck. See Figure 8.9. 2. Apply ten pounds of force to the middle of the belt span. See Figure 8.10. PTO Belt Figure 8.
Z-Force-S Spindle pulleys and spindle shafts To replace a pulley or spindle shaft: 1. Remove the deck as described at the beginning of this chapter. 2. Slip the deck belt off of the spindle pulley that is to be serviced. NOTE: To reach the outer spindles, remove the spindle covers. See Figure 8.12. Spindle cover Figure 8.12 3. Remove the blade nuts using an impact wrench and a 1 1/8” socket. 4. Left the spindle shaft out of the spindle housing. See Figure 8.13. Spindle pulley Figure 8.13 5.
Decks and Lift Shaft Spindle removal/installation To remove/rebuild a spindle: 1. Remove the deck as described at the beginning of this chapter. 2. Remove the blade following the steps described in the blade section of this chapter. 3. Remove the spindle covers. See Figure 8.15. 4. Slip the deck belt off of the spindle pulley that is to be serviced. 5. Remove the spindle pulley. 6. Remove the four screws fastening the spindle to the deck. See Figure 8.16. 7.
Z-Force-S Spindle overhaul To rebuild a spindle: 1. Remove the spindle by following the procedures described in the spindle removal section of this chapter. 2. Slide the spindle shaft and pulley out of the spindle housing. 3. Remove the upper bearing protector. 4. Remove the upper bearing seal. See Figure 8.17. Bearing seal Figure 8.17 5. Remove the upper bearing. Upper bearing Figure 8.18 6. Remove the spacer. See Figure 8.19. Spacer Figure 8.
Decks and Lift Shaft Lower seal 7. Remove the lower bearing seal. See Figure 8.20. 8. Remove the lower bearing. NOTE: The grease fitting in the spindle housing and the grease fitting on the spindle shaft send grease to the same spot. Only one of the fittings needs to be used when greasing a spindle. NOTE: Bearing races and cones must be kept as a matched set once they have been run. • If a bearing race or cone is to be re-used, it must be re-used with its original mate.
Z-Force-S Leveling the deck For the best quality cut, the deck must be level side to side and the front of the deck should be 1/4” - 3/8” lower than the rear of the deck. To level the deck: NOTE: Deck leveling is part of initial mower setup. Before adjusting an out of level deck on a mower that has been used, inspect all of the deck lift and suspension linkages. Move the deck through its full range of travel while checking linkage movement. Repair any damaged or binding linkage before leveling the deck.
Decks and Lift Shaft 3. Loosen, but do NOT remove, the hex bolt on the front left deck hanger link. See Figure 8.25. NOTE: The front right deck hanger link is not adjustable Adjustment gear 4. To level the deck turn the adjustment gear, located immediately behind the bolt. Turn the gear clockwise (rearward) to raise the left side of the deck. Turn the gear counter-clockwise (toward front) to lower the left side of the deck. See Figure 8.25. 5.
Z-Force-S Deck Gauge Wheel Adjustment The cutting decks are of a “floating” design. This means that they are suspended above the ground. The gauge wheels occasionally touch the ground. They are designed to bump the deck up and over irregularities. This prevents scalping damage to the turf and to the deck. Adjust the gauge wheels as follows: 1. Place the mower on a smooth, flat surface and move the deck to the desired mowing height using the deck lift pedal.
Decks and Lift Shaft Front and rear deck lift shaft assembly Lift assist spring The Z-force-S has two deck lift shafts. The same procedure is used to remove either one. To remove/replace a lift shaft: 1. Remove the deck by following the steps described at the beginning of this chapter. 2. Remove the left control panel by following the steps described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis. NOTE: On units equipped with a 60” deck, the right control panel will need to be removed as well. Front lift shaft 3.
Z-Force-S 6. Remove the nut and bolt that attach the drive control links to the drive bell cranks using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 8.31. Drive control links Figure 8.31 7. Remove both of the split spacers from the lift shaft to be removed. See Figure 8.32. Split spacer Lift shaft Figure 8.32 8. Slide the lift shaft to one side far enough for the lift shaft and hex bushing to clear the frame. See Figure 8.33. 9. Remove the lift shaft and the other hex bushing from the mower. 10.
Decks and Lift Shaft Deck lift pedal lever To remove/replace the deck lift pedal lever: Pedal link 1. Remove the floor pan by following the procedures described in Chapter 4: Body. 2. Disconnect the pedal link from the deck lift pedal lever using a 15/16” wrench and a 9/16” wrench. See Figure 8.34. 3. Remove the E-ring that secures the deck lift pedal lever to the frame. See Figure 8.35. 4. Rotate the deck lift pedal lever toward the rear of the mower and slide it out of the frame. 5.
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Maintanence Intervals CHAPTER 9: MAINTENANCE INTERVALS Lubrication To help keep the Z-Force-S in proper running order, Cub Cadet recommends the following lubrication intervals be used (adjustable to local conditions). Lubricate with 737-0168 grease or an equivalent NGLI grade 2 lithium based, lead-free multi-purpose non-soap grease.
Z-Force-S The spark plugs The spark plugs should be checked, cleaned and re-gapped on a monthly basis or every 100 hours of use. The plugs should be replaced every six months or 300 hours of use. When checking the spark plugs, a dry, light colored residue on the plugs is a sign of running lean. If there is a thick, wet, black residue on the plug the engine is running rich. There should be a dry tan coating on the plugs. This would indicate the proper mixture. To remove/replace the spark plugs: 1.
Maintanence Intervals Air filter A dirty air filter can reduce engine power, increase fuel consumption and make starting more difficult. The air filter should be cleaned every 100 hours and replaced every 200 hours of use. Air filter door To check the air filter: 1. Swing open the air filter cover located at the back of the engine. See Figure 9.3. 2. Loosen the hose clamp on air filter using a 5/16” wrench. See Figure 9.4. 3. Remove the air filter. 4.
Z-Force-S Oil change The oil change interval is every 100 hrs. NOTE: The first oil change should be preformed at 8 hours. To change the oil: 1. Oil filter Remove the cap from the oil drain. See Figure 9.7. NOTE: The right rear wheel was removed for a clearer view of the oil drain. It is not necessary to remove the wheel to drain the oil. 2. Remove the dipstick. Oil drain Figure 9.7 1/4 turn 3. Slide a piece of 1/2” hose onto the drain. 4.
Maintanence Intervals Engine Oil Capacity Oil filter was not removed 1.9 US qt. (1.8L) Oil filter was removed 2.2 US qt. (2.1L) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) 6$( 6$( 6$( : 6$( : 6$( : & & & & & & & Oil Chart Oil filter To replace the oil filter: 1. Oil filter Drain the oil by following the steps described in the previous section of this chapter. NOTE: If replacing a damaged filter, the filter can be removed without draining the oil.
Z-Force-S Fuel system What you should know about fuel. Most of the fuel presently available in North America is oxygenated to some extent. This is commonly done through the addition of ethanol. Most engines offered for sale on outdoor power equipment in the North American markets are designed to tolerate no more than 10% ethanol by volume Ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. If left exposed to air, it will draw water out of the air.
Maintanence Intervals 3. Carefully slide the fuel lines off of the filter. If there are pieces of rubber on the barbs of the fuel filter, replace the affected fuel line. IMPORTANT: The Z-Force-S uses low permeation fuel line to meet EPA guidelines. When replacing the fuel lines, they must be replaced with the same type of low permeation fuel line. 4. Install the new filter by following the above steps in reverse order. 5. Test run the engine and check for leaks before returning to service.
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