Professional Shop Manual I Series Riding Tractors NOTE: These materials are for use by trained technicians who are experienced in the service and repair of outdoor power equipment of the kind described in this publication, and are not intended for use by untrained or inexperienced individuals. These materials are intended to provide supplemental information to assist the trained technician. Untrained or inexperienced individuals should seek the assistance of an experienced and trained professional.
Table of Contents Chapter 1: Introduction .........................................................................................................1 Professional Shop Manual intent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Description of the I-series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Model and Serial Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rebuilding the steering gear box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Wear block adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Front wheels and axles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Drag links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Chapter 8: Cutting Decks and lift shaft ............................................................................143 Cleaning the deck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 To clean the deck while it is removed. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Blades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
IV
INTRODUCTION CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION Disclaimer: This manual is intended for use by trained, professional technicians. Professional Shop Manual intent This Manual is intended to provide service dealers with an introduction to the mechanical aspects of the Iseries tractor. • Common sense in operation and safety is assumed. This Professional Shop Manual covers the I-series tractor more specifically, and in greater depth than the original Shop Handbook.
INTRODUCTION Description of the I-series Model and Serial Numbers The I-series is a revolutionary new tractor platform introduced in the 2007 season. This platform combines a traditional lawn tractor with zero-turning capabilities. This is accomplished by controlling the drive of the rear wheels independently and the use of an innovative steering system. See Figure 1.1. The model and serial number tag can be found under the seat. See Figure 1.2. Serial number Model number Figure 1.
ENGINE RELATED PARTS CHAPTER 2: ENGINE RELATED PARTS This chapter will cover the engine accessories that are manufactured by Cub Cadet. 3. IMPORTANT: The engine is manufactured by Kohler. Refer to the Kohler manual for engine specific service information. Remove the hood pivot brackets by removing the two screws that secure each one in place. See Figure 2.2. Muffler Remove the muffler by following these steps: 1. Remove the hood and bumper by following the steps described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis.
ENGINE RELATED PARTS 5. With the muffler on a work bench, remove the four screws that fasten the muffler to the muffler bracket. See Figure 2.4. 7. The muffler, muffler cover and the muffler bracket can now be separated. See Figure 2.6. Muffler brackets Heat shield Remove these screws Muffler Figure 2.6 Figure 2.4 6. NOTE: The heat shield and muffler brackets can be left together and handled as one part. Remove the two screws that fasten the muffler guard to the muffler bracket. See Figure 2.5. 8.
ENGINE RELATED PARTS Exhaust pipes Fuel tank removal/replacement The exhaust pipes are manufactured by Cub Cadet. To remove/replace the exhaust pipes: Remove/replace the fuel tank by following these steps: 1. Remove the muffler following the steps described in the previous section. 2. Remove the mounting bolts using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 2.7. ! CAUTION Gasoline and it vapors are extremely flammable. Use common sense when working around the fuel system 1. Remove the deck. 2.
ENGINE RELATED PARTS 5. Remove the two screws and two nuts that fasten the seat box cover. See Figure 2.10. Remove these screws Remove these screws Seat box Figure 2.10 6. Remove the seat box cover. 7. Clamp the fuel line. See Figure 2.11. Fuel line clamp Fuel line Figure 2.11 8. Remove the fuel line clamp and slide the fuel line off. NOTE: The fuel tank has a barbed fitting.
BRAKES CHAPTER 3: BRAKES Brake system description For the IVT transmission: The I-series tractors have two braking systems available based on which transmission is used. HydroGear transmissions use a disc type brakes. The IVT transmission uses an external drum brake system. The IVT transmission has two drop axles. On each drop axle there is an external drum brake. See Figure 3.2. For HydroGear transmissions: • The brakes are located on each transmission.
BRAKES 5. Brake adjustment - HydroGear transmissions NOTE: Whenever performing a brake adjustment, inspect the brake components for signs of wear or damage. 1. Block the front wheels. 2. Lift and safely support the rear of the tractor. See Figure 3.3. Back the castle nut off a few turns using a 9/16” wrench. NOTE: Even if the brakes are set to the correct clearance, inserting a feeler gauge between the rotor and the brake puck can be very difficult.
BRAKES Brake adjustment - IVT transmissions Brake puck/rotor replacement - HydroGear Transmissions To adjust the brakes on IVT transmission: 1. Lift the rear of the tractor and safely support it with a pair of jack stands. 2. Remove the rear wheels with a 3/4” wrench. 3. Release the parking brake. 4. Remove the cotter pin that retains the ferrule of the drive control rod. See Figure 3.6.
BRAKES 4. Loosen the rear mounting bolt. See Figure 3.8. 7. Slide the brake rotor off to reach the inboard brake puck. See Figure 3.10. Remove this bolt Inboard brake puck Loosen this bolt Figure 3.8 Figure 3.10 5. Remove the front mounting bolt, allowing the caliper to swing down. See Figure 3.9. 8. Remove the caliper for inspection when servicing the brake pucks. To do this, remove the rear bolt loosened in step 4. 9.
BRAKES 11. Slide the brake pins into the caliper. 12. Place the backing plate in the caliper. 13. Place a new puck into the caliper. See Figure 3.12. Brake caliper re-assembled Figure 3.12 NOTE: A piece of scotch tape may be used to hold the new brake pucks in place for assembly. The tape will grind away when the brakes are applied. 14. Place a new brake puck into the recess in the transmission. Use a piece of scotch tape to hold it in place. 15. Slide the brake rotor in place, shoulder out.
BRAKES 4. Brake shoes/drum - IVT transmissions On IVT transmissions, the brake shoes and drums are the wearing parts that will need to be serviced from time to time. If a tractor is operated with the parking brake dragging, the shoes will wear out rapidly and the brake drum will develop hot spots. If the tractor is operated long enough, the drum may have grinding marks on it with excessively worn shoes. Disconnect the brake shoe spring. See Figure 3.14.
BRAKES 6. Remove the snap ring that secures the drum with a pair of snap ring pliers. See Figure 3.16. Brake cross shaft assembly The brake cross shaft assembly for the HydroGear transmissions and the IVT transmissions are not the same. The procedure to service them are the same. The brake cross shaft assembly is supported by two bushings. Excessive movement in the brake cross shaft assembly may be an indication that the bushings are worn out. To replace the brake cross shaft bushings: 1.
BRAKES 3. 4. To remove/replace the brake cross shaft assembly: Remove the right side bushing first. This will allow the shaft to slide far enough to the left to let the other bushing to come out. Install new bushings by following the above steps in reverse order. 1. Remove the brake pedal by removing the two screws using a 1/2” wrench. 2. Remove the cotter pins that retain the three brake rods. Slide the brake rods out of the brake cross shaft assembly. See Figure 3.19.
BRAKES 4. Loosen the shoulder bolt that the parking brake plate pivots on. See Figure 3.21. 6. Slide the split bushings out of their pockets in the sub-frame, then pull them off of the brake cross shaft assembly. See Figure 3.23. Parking brake plate Shoulder bolt Figure 3.21 Figure 3.23 5. Remove the cotter pin from each end of the brake cross shaft. See Figure 3.22. 7. Work the brake cross shaft out of the sub frame.
BRAKES 16
BODY/CHASSIS CHAPTER 4: BODY/CHASSIS 4. The hood The I-series hood uses the same hood pivot system as the 1000 series for easy removal. Headlight harness To remove the hood: 1. Cut the wire tie that secures the headlight harness to the hood. See Figure 4.3. The hood is front-hinged. See Figure 4.1. Wire tie Lift here Figure 4.3 5. The hood hinges on a pair of shoulder bolts on each side that fit into slots in the hood bracket. 6.
BODY/CHASSIS Bumper Dash Removal I-series tractors come equipped with a fast attach bumper. To remove the bumper: The dash for the I-series is easy to remove. There are a few repair procedures, such as the cam angle adjustment or replacing the steering gearbox, that require the dash to be removed. The steps to remove it are as follows: 1. Remove the two screws, one on each side, that secures the bumper bracket. See Figure 4.5. 1. Remove the steering wheel: 1a. Remove the center cover. See Figure 4.
BODY/CHASSIS 2. 2c. Remove the two screws attaching the dash to the dash support. See Figure 4.11. Remove the dash: 2a. Disconnect the key switch, module, PTO switch and the hour meter. See Figure 4.9. One on each side Hour meter Module and key switch PTO switch Figure 4.11 2d. Remove the two screws in the cargo net area, at the bottom of the dash. See Figure 4.12. Figure 4.9 2b. Disconnect the parking brake by removing the hair pin clip and sliding the rod out of the lever. See Figure 4.10.
BODY/CHASSIS Remove the fender 2e. Remove the screws at the bottom of the dash, on each side. See Figure 4.13. Screw removed 1. Remove the dash by following the steps described in the previous section of this chapter. 2. Disconnect the wires to the seat switch. NOTE: Tractors built prior to 2008 have two yellow wires that go to a switch on the side of the seat bracket. See Figure 4.14. Seat switch wires Remove the nut and bolt to remove seat Figure 4.13 2f.
BODY/CHASSIS 5. 10. Remove the nuts from the under side of the foot rests. See Figure 4.16. Place the steering wheel on the steering shaft. Turn the wheels to the left and right to allow the fenders to clear the steering arm assembly. See Figure 4.18. Steering arm assembly Remove these nuts Place some tape here to protect the paint Figure 4.16 6. Remove the brake and drive pedals. 7. Remove the screw from the center of the fender. See Figure 4.17. Figure 4.
BODY/CHASSIS 22
DRIVE SYSTEM-HYDROGEAR CHAPTER 5A: DRIVE SYSTEM - HYDROGEAR TRANSMISSIONS 4. There are two drive systems available for the Iseries tractor. One system uses two HydroGear transmissions. The other system uses an Infinitrak full-toroidal Infinitely Variable Transmission (IVT). This chapter will cover the HydroGear version of the tractor. Unbolt the electric PTO using an impact wrench and a 5/8” socket. See Figure 5A.2. The HydroGear version of this tractor uses two EZT transmissions.
DRIVE SYSTEM-HYDROGEAR 5. 7. Slide the engine pulley down far enough to slip the belt off of the pulley. See Figure 5A.3. Work belt off of the idler pulleys. NOTE: It may be necessary to loosen the moveable idler pulley to get the belt to clear the belt guide on the idler bracket. See Figure 5A.4. 8. The transmission brace doubles as a belt keeper. Remove the two screws that hold the transmission brace to the transmission.
DRIVE SYSTEM-HYDROGEAR 10. Belt adjustment Remove the two screws that hold the transmission links to the shifter plate. See Figure 5A.6. The drive belt is tensioned by a spring loaded moveable idler pulley. When the brakes are applied, the drive belt is de-clutched. An adjustable linkage connects the tensioner pulley to the brake shaft. A brake link that is out of adjustment will prevent the moveable idler from correctly tensioning and de-tensioning the belt.
DRIVE SYSTEM-HYDROGEAR 4. Transmissions Slide the ferrule out of the idler bracket. See Figure 5A.8. The I-series tractor uses two EZT transmissions from Hydro-gear. The transmissions can be removed separately. To remove a transmission: NOTE: The transmission model and serial number tags are located on the frame channel next to the transmission that they refer to. Washer 1. Remove the deck as described in chapter 8 Cutting Decks and Lift Shaft. 2.
DRIVE SYSTEM-HYDROGEAR 7. 10. Remove the two bolts that thread into the cross tubes. See Figure 5A.11. Remove the two bolts that fasten the transmission to the frame. See Figure 5A.13. Reinforcing strap Cross truss Spacer Bolts Figure 5A.11 Figure 5A.13 8. Support the transmission to prevent it from falling while the mounting bolts are removed. 9. Remove the bolt holding the transmission to the torque bracket. See Figure 5A.12.
DRIVE SYSTEM-HYDROGEAR 6. Drive pedal shaft To remove the drive pedal shaft: 1. Remove the deck as described in chapter 8 Cutting Decks and Lift Shaft. 2. Disconnect the link between the steering gearbox and the bell crank on the drive pedal shaft. See Figure 5A.14. Drive out the two roll pins that secure the drive pedal bracket to the drive pedal shaft. See Figure 5A.16. Drive pedal bracket Hex bushing Steering gearbox lever Bell crank Link Figure 5A.16 Reverse switch 7. Remove the hex bushing.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT CHAPTER 5B: DRIVE SYSTEM - IVT TRANSMISSION The power from the engine is transferred to the transmission via a belt and pulleys. The power is applied to a “T” box assembly. The “T” box output drives the inner discs of the variator assemblies. See Figure 5B.2 There are two drive systems available for the Iseries tractor. One system uses two HydroGear transmissions. The other system uses an Infinitrak full-toroidal Infinitely Variable Transmission (IVT).
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT The key to making this work is a special traction fluid that was developed for this transmission. A Traction fluid is a synthetic transmission fluid designed with properties specifically for transmitting torque between the discs and rollers. NOTE: The RPM numbers used in figures 5B.2, 5B.3 and 5B.4 are not the actual measurements of the disc speeds. They are just an example to demonstrate the speed differences.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT If the answer is positive, transmission drives in a forward direction. If the answer is negative, the transmission drives in reverse. If the answer is zero, the transmission will have zero output and be in what is known as a geared neutral state. See Figure 5B.9 The output shaft of the T-box drives a sun gear in the center of the planetary gears at the same speed as the input discs. The planetary gear carriers are attached to the output discs. See Figure 5B.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT Drive belt The transmission output shafts drive a pair of drop axles assemblies. The drive belt is the most common drive system component that will need attention. To remove/replace the drive belt: The IVT transmissions are NOT serviceable. The drop axles and brakes are serviceable and will be covered in later sections of this chapter. Cub Cadet belts are design to fit our equipment and are not standard lengths.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 4. 9. Slide the retainer clip half way out of the dampener end using small flat head screw driver. See Figure 5B.12 Unplug the electric PTO harness. See Figure 5B.14 Starter Moveable idler Dampener end PTO connector Retainer clip Figure 5B.14 Figure 5B.12 10. 5. Disconnect the dampener from the moveable idler pulley bracket. 6. Disconnect the brake link from the moveable idler pulley bracket. 7.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 11. Slide the engine pulley down far enough to slip the belt off of the pulley. See Figure 5B.16 12. Remove the rear wheels. 13. Remove the transmission fan. 13a. Reach in through the wheel opening. 13b. Remove the three transmission fan screws using a 5/16” wrench. See Figure 5B.18 Transmission fan Engine pulley Figure 5B.16 NOTE: If the engine pulley will not slide down the crankshaft using the steps above, remove the engine mounting bolts and slide the engine back.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 15. Slip the belt off of the transmission pulley. Belt adjustment 16. Remove the belt from the tractor. 17. Install the belt following the previous steps in reverse order. The drive belt is tensioned by a spring loaded moveable idler pulley. When the brakes are applied, the drive belt is de-clutched. An adjustable linkage connects the tensioner pulley to the brake shaft.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 3. Transmissions Remove the cotter pin and washer from the ferrule. See Figure 5B.22 To remove the transmission: Cotter pin 1. Remove the deck as described in chapter 8 Cutting Decks and Lift Shaft. 2. Lift and safely support the rear of the tractor. 3. Remove the dash and fender by following the steps described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis. 4. Remove the rear wheels. 5.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 10. 8a. Remove the hair and clevis pins. See Figure 5B.25 Remove front mounting screw on each side of the tractor using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 5B.27 drive control link Hair pin clip Front mounting screw Clevis pin Figure 5B.25 Figure 5B.27 8b. Slide the drive control links off of the input levers 9. NOTE: Support the transmission to prevent it from falling while the mounting bolts are removed. Remove the two screws that fasten the expansion tank to the left side of the frame.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 13. If replacing the transmission assembly, remove the transmission fan. 14. If only replacing the IVT (center section of the transmission), remove the drop axles by following the procedures described in the drop axle section of this manual. 15. Install the transmission by following the previous steps in reverse order. 16. Perform a neutral adjustment and wheel alignment by following the steps described in 6B: Steering - IVT. 17.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 3. Rebuilding the drop axles Remove the four screws that secure the drop axle assembly to the IVT, using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 5B.30 1. Remove the drop axle by following the procedures described in the previous section of this chapter. 2. Remove the brake: 2a. Remove the snap ring that secures the brake drum to the brake shaft. See Figure 5B.32 Pivot Screw Snap ring Remove these screws Figure 5B.30 4. Tap the drop axle off of the alignment dowels using a soft faced hammer.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 4. 11. Remove the by-pass lever. NOTE: The by-pass lever has a very tight fit on the by-pass fork. It will need to be persuaded off. 5. Remove the eleven housing screws using a 3/8” wrench. 6. Lift the upper housing off of the gearbox. 7. Remove the drive axle assembly. See Figure 5B.34 Remove the brake shaft assembly. See Figure 5B.36 By-pass fork Drive axle Brake shaft assembly Figure 5B.36 12. Slide the bushings off of the brake shaft. 13.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 15. Separate the spur gear from the brake shaft by removing the retaining ring. See Figure 5B.38 NOTE: When seating the bushings of the brake shaft in the drop axle housing, the tab on the bushings must seat in the notch in the housing. Notch Tab Retaining ring Figure 5B.38 16. Remove the bearing. See Figure 5B.39 Figure 5B.40 NOTE: Apply Loctite #271 or an equivalent threadlocker to the threaded section of the drive axle.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 4. Drive pedal shafts NOTE: If the main drive pedal shaft is the only part that needs to be serviced, the reverse pedal shaft can be left in place. However Cub Cadet recommends removing the reverse pedal shaft and replacing the bushings at the same time. The I-series tractors equipped with the IVT transmission have two drive pedal assemblies. The main drive pedal shaft is attached to the forward drive pedal.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 6. 4c. Rotate the reverse drive pedal shaft out of the reverse pedal support. See Figure 5B.45 Disconnect both brake release rods from the main drive pedal shaft by removing the cotter pins. See Figure 5B.47 Brake release rod Cotter pin reverse drive pedal shaft Reverse pedal support Figure 5B.47 Figure 5B.45 5. 7. Disconnect the right side brake link from the brake pedal shaft by removing the cotter pin. See Figure 5B.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 8. 10. Remove the hair pin clip, washer and hex bushing from the right side of the main drive pedal shaft. See Figure 5B.49 Remove the three screws that secure the reverse pedal support using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 5B.51 Washer Hex bushing Hair pin clip Remove these screws Figure 5B.51 Figure 5B.49 9. Drive out both of the roll pins securing the drive pedal bracket to the main shaft using a 1/4” pin punch. See Figure 5B.50 11.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 15. Swing the rear of the drive pedal shaft support bracket down. 16. Disconnect the steering gear box from the main shaft by removing the hair pin clip. See Figure 5B.53 To install the drive shaft assemblies: 1. Install the middle hex bushing. See Figure 5B.55 Middle hex bushing Steering gearbox arm Hair pin clip Figure 5B.55 Figure 5B.53 17. Disconnect the reverse switch. See Figure 5B.54 2. Slide the right side of the main shaft through the middle hex bushing. See Figure 5B.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 5. 8. Insert the main shaft into the hole for the left hex bushing by sliding it through the slot. See Figure 5B.57 Slide the drive pedal bracket onto the main shaft. NOTE: Do not install the roll pins at this point. 9. Install the reverse pedal support. 10. Install the hair pin clip, washer and hex bushing on the right side of the main drive pedal shaft. See Figure 5B.59 Hole for hex bushing Washer Hex bushing Hair pin clip Slot Figure 5B.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 15. 16c. Modify the hex bushing by: Install the right side brake link onto the brake pedal shaft using a new cotter pin. See Figure 5B.61 Brake link • ´ ´ ´ ´ 1(: 02',),(' Cotter pin Figure 5B.61 16. Cut or grind the bushing to an overall height of 1/2” . See Figure 5B.63 Figure 5B.63 Install the reverse drive pedal shaft. • Grind a 30o tapper on the hex end of the bushing. 16a. Rotate the reverse drive pedal shaft into the reverse pedal support.
DRIVE SYSTEM-IVT 16e. Slide the reverse drive pedal shaft into the modified hex bushing while aligning the timing marks on the gears of the two shafts. See Figure 5B.65. • One mark on the fourth tooth from the bottom of the reverse gear. • One mark on the fourth valley from the valley of the main drive shaft gear. Timing marks Figure 5B.65 16f. Install the washer and hair pin clip. See Figure 5B.66 Hair pin clip Figure 5B.66 48 17.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR CHAPTER 6A: STEERING - HYDROGEAR TRANSMISSIONS Introduction Cam Slot Angle Adjustment The steering on the I-series tractor works in two phases. The cam slot adjustment is a critical adjustment on the I-series tractor, but it should only be necessary in two cases. • • First it will steer like any other tractor by turning the front wheels. Second and more importantly, the steering linkage will control the drive output of the rear wheels through the use of two HydroGear transmissions.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 2. Disconnect the transmission link from the right side of the gear box only. 2c. Raise the transmission link away from the cam slot. 2a. Removing the nut and bolt that passes through the double roller. See Figure 6A.1. NOTE: Catch the double roller when lifting the transmission link away from the steering gear box. See Figure 6A.3. Remove this nut and bolt Cam slot Double roller Figure 6A.1 Figure 6A.3 2b. Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin. See Figure 6A.2. Cotter pin 3.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 4. Insert the pins of the gauge block tool P/N 75305437 into the cam slot. See Figure 6A.5. 6. Tighten the return to neutral bolt. See Figure 6A.7. Pins Return to neutral bolt Gauge block tool Figure 6A.5 5. Rest the tool flat against the frame. See Figure 6A.6. Figure 6A.7 7. Remove the gauge block. 8. Adjust the transmission for neutral and align the front wheels as described in the following sections of this chapter. 9. Reassemble the tractor. 10.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 1d. Finger tighten the screw to set the screw fully into the detent. The steering gear box is now centered and locked. See Figure 6A.9. Neutral and Transmission Links Adjustment The first step is to coordinate the neutral points of the steering gear box, both transmissions and the control linkages. The transmission links will self adjust when the neutral adjustment and wheel alignment are done. To establish neutral: 1. Lock Steering Gear Box in Neutral Position: 2” bolt 1a.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 3. 5a. Loosen the two screws that connect each drive control link to the shifter T-plate on each transmission. See Figure 6A.11. Loosen these screws Loosen the socket head cap screw in the slot of the shift selector plate. See Figure 6A.12. Shifter T-plate Loosen this bolt Shift selector plate Figure 6A.12 Figure 6A.11 4. NOTE: Feel the shifter T-plate, it should be free of any input from the transmission links. If tension is felt there, disconnect the links completely.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 3. Wheel alignment NOTE: The transmission neutral adjustment must be done prior to adjusting the steering linkage. 1. Insert a 5/16” pin through the hole in the steering gear on each side. The pins should pass through the gears, through the lower cover plate and into the pivot bar. See Figure 6A.15. Remove the three screws holding each steering gear cover in place. See Figure 6A.13. 5/16” punch Remove these screws Figure 6A.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 3b. Adjust the drag link until the holes line up See Figure 6A.17. Rotate to lengthen or shorten Steering gear box removal To replace the gear box: 1. Remove the dash and fender by following the steps described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis. 2. Disconnect the transmission linkages: 2a. Remove the cotter pins, washers and clevis pins in the linkages. See Figure 3.18. Hair pin clip Figure 6A.17 NOTE: The punch should slide in and out without binding.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 3. At the bottom of the lever with the cam slot there is a connector link. Remove the hairpin clip and push it out of the lever. See Figure 6A.20. 5. Remove the transmission dampener cylinder using two 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 6A.22. Remove hair pin clip Transmission dampener Figure 6A.22 Figure 6A.20 6. 4. Disconnect the steering links on both sides: 4a. Gently pry the link retainer over the master link. See Figure 6A.21.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 8. NOTE: Rotating the steering shaft bushing 90 degrees will allow the bushing to pop out, relieving the pressure on the steering shaft. This will make it easier to remove or install the shaft. See Figure 6A.24. Remove the four screws holding the gear box to the frame with a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 6A.26. Rotate the bushing 90o Figure 6A.26 Figure 6A.24 7. Disconnect the ground wire. See Figure 6A.25. Ground wire Figure 6A.25 9.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 15. Apply anti-seize compound to the rollers and the cam slots on the gear box levers. See Figure 6A.28. Apply never seize Figure 6A.28 16. Adjust the speed cam angle by following the steps described in the previous section. 17. Connect the transmission links. 17a. Place the rollers into the cam slots and slide the transmission links over the levers. 17b. Insert the bolt through the transmission link and roller. 17c.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR Rebuilding the steering gear box 3. There are two different gear boxes available for the I-series tractors that are equipped with HydroGear transmissions. • The 618-04430 steering gear box was used until the end of the 2007 model year. • The 618-04634 steering gear box was used in 2008 through current production. Remove the return to neutral bracket using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 6A.31. The procedures to rebuild both gear boxes are similar.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 5. Lift the upper housing off of the lower housing. 7. NOTE: There is no sealant between the two housings. They should easily slip apart. If they are stuck together, there are three pry points cast into the housings that can be used to separate the housings. See Figure 6A.33. Remove the speed cam assemblies. See Figure 6A.35. Speed cam assemblies Figure 6A.35 Using one of the pry points to separate the housings. 8. Separate the speed cam assemblies. See Figure 6A.36. Figure 6A.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 9. Separate the speed cam from the output bevel gear assembly by removing the small snap ring from the speed cam shaft. See Figure 6A.37. 11. Remove the washer from the input sector gear. See Figure 6A.39. NOTE: The 618-04430 gear boxes only Speed cam Output bevel gear assembly Remove the washer Input sector gear Small snap ring Figure 6A.37 10. Separate the output bevel gear assembly by removing the snap ring. See Figure 6A.38. Figure 6A.39 12. Remove the input sector gear.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 13. Inspect the input sector gear bushings for damage and/or signs of wear. If they show signs of wear of damage, press both of the bushings out of the input sector gear using a press. See Figure 6A.41. 15. Remove both of the bevel gears. See Figure 6A.43. Press out the bushings Bevel gears Figure 6A.43 16. Figure 6A.41 14. Remove the spiral ring from the post on the bevel gear. Slide the roller off of the bevel gear. See Figure 6A.44.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 17. Remove the snap ring from the input shaft. See Figure 6A.45. 19. Remove the wear block. NOTE: On early production models of the 61804430 and all versions of the 618-04634 steering gear boxes there is a spring that presses the wear block against the steering rack. See Figure 6A.47. Figure 6A.45 18. Remove the input shaft from the inside of the housing. See Figure 6A.46. Wear block Figure 6A.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 20. Inspect the bearings. If they are worn or rough, carefully drive the inner bearing out of the upper housing using a pin punch and hammer. See Figure 6A.49. To assemble the steering gear box: 1. Put a dab of 737-0300A DurinaTM grease into each of the bushings in the lower housing. See Figure 6A.51. Drive out the inner bearing Put a dab of grease in each bushing Figure 6A.49 21. Drive the outer bearing out of the upper housing using a pin or brass punch and hammer. See Figure 6A.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 3. Insert the steering shaft. See Figure 6A.53. 5. Install the internal cam with the shoulder facing up. The bevel gear rollers in the slots. See Figure 6A.55. Slots Shoulder Steering shaft Figure 6A.53 4. Figure 6A.55 Place the large washer over the steering shaft. See Figure 6A.54. 6. Apply a dab of 737-0300A DurinaTM grease to the side of the steering shaft. See Figure 6A.56. Large washer Figure 6A.54 Figure 6A.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 7. Insert the input sector gear into the internal cam. NOTE: The input sector gear and the internal cam have a master spline to time the two to each other. See Figure 6A.57. Speed cam Shim Output bevel gear Bushing Hydro arm Chamfer Figure 6A.59 Master spline 9c. Place a .030” shim over the hydro arm. See Figure 6A.59. Figure 6A.57 8. On the 618-04430 gear boxes, place the smaller washer over the steering shaft. See Figure 6A.58.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 10. 9e. Install both of the snap rings. • 9f. Repeat for the right output bevel gear assembly. The bevel gears should face away from the input sector gear. • The first tooth of each output bevel gear should rest in the first valley the bevel gears in the bottom of the lower housing. • The output bevel gear should have no play once it is installed. If it does have play go back to step 9. See Figure 6A.63. Place both output bevel gear assemblies on the bench, facing each other.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 12. Fill the lower housing with 12 oz. of 737-0300A DurinaTM grease. See Figure 6A.65. 14. Press the lower ball bearing into the upper housing. See Figure 6A.67. A socket can be used to press in the ball bearing Figure 6A.65 13. Press in the upper ball bearing into the upper housing. See Figure 6A.66. Figure 6A.67 15. Insert the input shaft thought the ball bearings from the inside of the steering gear box. See Figure 6A.68.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 16. Install the snap ring on the input shaft. See Figure 6A.69. • For all other steering gear boxes: 17c. Insert the spring into the wear block. 17d. Set the wear block and spring into the square recess in the upper housing. See Figure 6A.71. Snap ring Wear block Figure 6A.69 17. Install the wear block: • For the 618-04430 steering gear boxes with the adjustment bolt: 17a. Insert the washer into the hole in the wear block. 17b.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 20. With the wear block facing the front, adjust the steering rack until the right side measures 1.8” from the case to the shoulder at the end of the shaft. See Figure 6A.73. 22. Check the timing of the gear box: 22a. Turn the input shaft until the steering rack has moved all the way to the left. The right shoulder should be flush with the housing. See Figure 6A.74. 1.8” Shoulder be flush with the housing Figure 6A.73 21. Figure 6A.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR Wear block adjustment 3. All of the steering gear boxes have a wear block that presses the wear block against the steering rack to set the back lash between the steering rack and the input shaft. Most of the steering gear boxes have a spring that holds a constant pressure on the wear block. While turning the input shaft, tighten the adjustment bolt until increased drag is felt. See Figure 6A.77.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR Front wheels and axles To replace the front wheel ball bearings: Remove/ replace the front wheels: 1. Lift and safely support the front end of the tractor. 2. Remove the front wheel by following the procedures describe in the previous section of this chapter. 3. Drive the bearings out of the wheel hub using a drift or pin punch. See Figure 6A.80. 1. Lift and safely support the front end of the tractor. 2. Gently pry off the hub cap. See Figure 6A.78.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR To remove/ replace the front axles: 1. Lift and safely support the front of the tractor. 2. Remove the front wheel by following the procedures the front wheel section of this chapter. 3. Remove the steering gear covers. 4. Insert a 5/16” pin punch into one of the alignment holes to lock the steering gears in place. See Figure 6A.82. 7. Take the bolt all the way out. NOTE: The axle should fall out at this point. 8.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 5. Drag links NOTE: Count the number of turns to remove the spherical rod ends. To remove/replace a drag link: 1. Remove the steering gear covers. 2. Remove and discard the nut holding the drag link to the inboard steering gear using two 9/16” wrenches (one of them should be a slim-line wrench). See Figure 6A.85. Remove the spherical rod ends. 6. Install new spherical rod ends.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR To remove/replace the tie rod: 1. Remove the steering gear covers. 2. Remove and discard the nut holding the tie rod spherical rod ends to the inboard steering gear using two 9/16” wrenches (one of them should be a slim-line wrench). See Figure 6A.87. To remove/replace the inboard steering gear or king pin: 1. Remove the steering gear covers. 2.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 7. Install the king pin. Pivot bar 8. Align the timing marks and install the inboard steering gear. To remove/replace the pivot bar: 1. Lift and safely support the front end of the tractor. 2. Remove the front axles by following the procedures described in the front wheels and axles section of this chapter. 3. Remove and discard the nut holding the drag link to the inboard steering gear using two 9/16” wrenches (one of them should be a slim-line wrench). See Figure 6A.91.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 6. Remove the pivot bar shoulder bolts. See Figure 6A.93. 10. With the pivot bar on a bench, the inboard steering gear and the tie rod can be serviced. 11. Remove the tie rod by removing and discarding the nut holding the tie rod ends to the in board steering gear. See Figure 6A.95. Shoulder bolts Remove nuts Pivot bar bracket Figure 6A.93 ! W A R N IN G At this point there is nothing holding the pivot bar in place.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 14. Start re-assembling the pivot bar by inserting the steering king pins into the pivot bar. Secure them with new cotter pins. See Figure 6A.97. 18. Insert a 5/16” pin punch in the alignment holes of the out board steering gears. NOTE: Make sure they go all the way through into the pivot bar to lock the gears in position. See Figure 6A.98. 5/16” pin punch Timing marks Adjust tie rod end King pin Cotter pin jam nut Figure 6A.97 15. Install the axle assemblies. 16.
STEERING-HYDROGEAR 22. Install the pivot bar by following steps 3 - 7 in reverse order. NOTE: When installing the pivot bar, use a clamp to line up the screw holes in the frame, pivot bar and bumper mounting brackets. See Figure 6A.100. Figure 6A.100 23. Slide the front wheels on and secure them with new cotter pins. NOTE: Make sure the washer is installed between the wheel bearings and the cotter pin. 24. Push the hub caps on till they snap in place. 25. Take the tractor off of the jack stands.
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STEERING-IVT CHAPTER 6B: STEERING - IVT TRANSMISSION Introduction Cam Slot Angle Adjustment Just like the I-series with HydroGear transmissions, the steering on the I-series tractor with the Infinitely Variable Transmission (IVT) works in two phases. First it will steer like any other tractor by turning the front wheels. Second and more importantly, the steering linkage will control the drive output of the rear wheels through the use of the IVT transmission.
STEERING-IVT 2b. Using a 1/4”-20x2” bolt, thread it into the steering box centering port until you feel it touch the steering rack. While trying to gently thread the bolt further, slowly rotate the steering shaft back and forth until the bolt seats into the detent in the steering rack. Finger tighten the screw to set the screw fully into the detent. The steering gear box is now centered and locked. See Figure 6B.2. 4. Loosen the two nuts and bolts on the drive control link. 5.
STEERING-IVT 6b. Remove the bow tie and clevis pins. 8. 6c. Raise the drive control link away from the cam slot. Set the cam slot angle at 90o to the frame using a combination square. See Figure 6B.8. NOTE: Catch the double roller when lifting the drive control link away from the steering gear box. See Figure 6B.6. 90o Figure 6B.8 Double roller Figure 6B.6 7. 9. Tighten the return to neutral bolt. 10.
STEERING-IVT Neutral and drive control links Adjustment IMPORTANT: Check the tire air pressure before attempting to diagnose any problems with the steering or tracking of an I-series tractor. If the tire air pressures are not equal across the same axles, it will greatly affect the performance of the tractor. NOTE: There is no puller needed for the steering wheel. Once the bolt is removed it will lift off of the steering shaft. 2.
STEERING-IVT 4. Remove the two screws in the cargo net area, at the bottom of the dash. See Figure 6B.13. 7. Lock Steering Gear Box in Neutral Position: 7a. Remove the 1/4”-20 plug screw from the steering gear box centering port using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 6B.15. 2” screw Remove these screws Figure 6B.13 NOTE: The cargo net was removed for a clearer picture. Do not remove the net to remove the screws. 5. Remove the screws at the bottom of the dash, on each side. See Figure 6B.14.
STEERING-IVT 8. Jack the tractor up so that both rear wheels are off of the ground and place a pair of jack stands under the rear transmissions. 9. Remove the rear wheels. 10. Wedge the brakes open on both sides of the transmission. See Figure 6B.17. NOTE: If a tachometer is not available: 14a. Before starting the tractor, mark the brake drum and shoe with a reference mark. See Figure 6B.18. Chisels used to hold brakes open Reference mark Figure 6B.18 Figure 6B.17 11.
STEERING-IVT If the transmission needs adjusted: 15. Turn off the engine. 16. Loosen the two nuts and bolts in the center of the drive control linkage on the side that needs adjusted . See Figure 6B.19. 20. Tighten the two nuts and bolts in the center of the drive control linkage. 21. Reassemble the tractor. NOTE: Leave the 1/4”-20x2” bolt threaded in the steering gearbox. 22. Perform the wheel alignment by following the procedures described in the next section of this manual.
STEERING-IVT 3. Wheel alignment NOTE: The transmission neutral adjustment must be done prior to adjusting the steering linkage. 1. Insert a 5/16” pin through the hole in the steering gear on each side. The pins should pass through the gears, through the lower cover plate and into the pivot bar. See Figure 6B.23. Remove the three screws holding each steering gear cover in place. See Figure 6B.21. 5/16” punch Remove these screws Figure 6B.23 NOTE: If the alignment is off, the holes may not line up.
STEERING-IVT 3b. Adjust the drag link until the holes line up See Figure 6B.25. Steering gear box removal To replace the gear box: 1. Remove the dash and fender by following the steps described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis. 2. Match mark the drive control link between the two nuts and bolts. See Figure 6B.26. Rotate to lengthen or shorten Figure 6B.25 Match mark NOTE: The punch should slide in and out without binding.
STEERING-IVT 4. Disconnect the drive control link from both sides of the gear box by removing the nut and bolt. See Figure 6B.5. 6. On the right side cam slot lever there is a connector link. Remove the hairpin clip. See Figure 6B.30. Remove this nut and bolt Remove hair pin clip Cam slot Figure 6B.30 Figure 6B.28 5. Raise the drive control link away from the cam slot. NOTE: Catch the double roller when lifting the drive control link away from the steering gear box. See Figure 6B.6. 7.
STEERING-IVT 8. Remove the steering shaft by removing the two clamp bolts in the steering shaft receiver and lifting the shaft out. See Figure 6B.32. 9. Disconnect the ground wire. See Figure 6B.34. Steering shaft Steering shaft Receiver Ground wire Figure 6B.34 Figure 6B.32 10. Remove the four screws holding the gear box to the frame with a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 6B.35.
STEERING-IVT 17. Attach the steering links. Install the retainers. Rebuilding the steering gear box NOTE: If the retainers are bent or twisted, the whole link must be replaced. The retainers are not available separately. To take the steering gear box apart: 18. Apply anti-seize compound to the rollers and the cam slots on the gear box levers. 19. Adjust the speed cam angle by following the step described in the cam slot angle section of the chapter. 20. Connect the drive control links. 1.
STEERING-IVT 4. Remove the six remaining case screws using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 6B.38. 7. Separate the speed cam assemblies by driving out the two roll pins using a 5/32” pin punch and a hammer. See Figure 6B.40. Remove these screws 5/32” pin punch Figure 6B.38 Figure 6B.40 5. Lift the upper housing off of the lower housing. NOTE: There is no sealant between the two housings. They should easily slip apart.
STEERING-IVT 9. Remove the input sector gear. See Figure 6B.42. 11. Remove the internal cam and both of the washers on top of the cam. See Figure 6B.44. Washers Steering shaft Input sector gear Internal cam Figure 6B.42 10. Inspect the input sector gear bushings for damage and/or signs of wear. If they show signs of wear or damage, press both of the bushings out of the input sector gear using a press. See Figure 6B.43. Figure 6B.44 NOTE: The steering shaft is pressed into the lower housing. 12.
STEERING-IVT 13. Slide the rollers off of the bevel gears. See Figure 6B.46. 16. Remove the snap ring from the input shaft. See Figure 6B.48. Rollers Figure 6B.46 Figure 6B.48 NOTE: There are no retains for these rollers because they are trapped between the bevel gears and the cam. 14. Lift the steering rack out of the upper steering box cover. 15. Remove the wear block. 17. Remove the input shaft from the inside of the housing. See Figure 6B.49.
STEERING-IVT 18. Inspect the bearings. If they are worn or rough, carefully drive the inner bearing out of the upper housing using a pin punch and hammer. See Figure 6B.50. To assemble the steering gear box: 1. Put a dab of 737-0300A DurinaTM grease into each of the bushings in the lower housing. See Figure 6B.52. Drive out the inner bearing Put a dab of grease in each bushing Figure 6B.50 19. Drive the outer bearing out of the upper housing using a pin or brass punch and hammer. See Figure 6B.51.
STEERING-IVT 3. Install the internal cam so that the rollers on the bevel gears ride in the groves of the cam. See Figure 6B.54. 5. Set the thin washer on top of the thick washer. See Figure 6B.56. Cam groves Thin washer Figure 6B.56 Figure 6B.54 6. 4. Set the thick washer on the internal cam, over the steering shaft. See Figure 6B.55. Apply a dab of 737-0300A DurinaTM grease to the side of the steering shaft. See Figure 6B.57. Thick washer Figure 6B.57 Figure 6B.
STEERING-IVT 7. Insert the input sector gear into the internal cam. NOTE: The input sector gear and the internal cam have a master spline to time the two to each other. See Figure 6B.58. 8c. Place a .030” shim (or a wave washer if it came with one) over the output arm. See Figure 6B.59. NOTE: The bevel gear needs to be shimmed to a bind. That means that once the assembly is installed in the lower housing, there is zero play between the bushing and the bevel gear.
STEERING-IVT 8e. Install the snap ring. • Line the hole in the input sector gear up with the the center of the square recess at the front of the lower housing. • The bevel gears should face away from the input sector gear. • The first tooth of each output bevel gear should rest in the first valley the bevel gears in the bottom of the lower housing. • The output bevel gear should have no play once it is installed. If it does have play, go back to step 9. See Figure 6B.64. 8f.
STEERING-IVT 14. NOTE: If one or both of the output bevel gears are out of time, the steering rack will lose travel on the affected side. 12. Press the lower ball bearing into the upper housing. See Figure 6B.68. Fill the lower housing with 12 oz. of 737-0300A DurinaTM grease. See Figure 6B.66. A socket can be used to press in the ball bearing Figure 6B.68 15. Insert the input shaft thought the ball bearings from the inside of the steering gear box. See Figure 6B.69. Figure 6B.66 13.
STEERING-IVT 16. Install the snap ring on the input shaft. See Figure 6B.70. 19. Set the steering rack into the grove in the upper housing. Trapping it between the input shaft and the wear block. See Figure 6B.72. NOTE: The hole in the steering rack should line up with the hole in the housing. See Figure 6B.72 Insert. Snap ring Align holes Figure 6B.70 17. Install the wear block: 17a. Insert the spring into the wear block. 17b.
STEERING-IVT 22. Check the timing of the gear box: Front wheels and axles 22a. Turn the input shaft until the steering rack has moved all the way to the left. The right shoulder should be flush with the housing. See Figure 6B.74. Remove/ replace the front wheels: 1. Lift and safely support the front end of the tractor. 2. Gently pry off the hub cap. See Figure 6B.75. Hub cap Shoulder should be flush with the housing Figure 6B.74 Figure 6B.75 22b.
STEERING-IVT To replace the front wheel ball bearings: To remove/ replace the front axles: 1. Lift and safely support the front end of the tractor. 1. Lift and safely support the front of the tractor. 2. Remove the front wheel by following the procedures describe in the previous section of this chapter. 2. Remove the front wheel by following the procedures in the front wheel section of this chapter. 3. Remove the steering gear covers. 4.
STEERING-IVT Take the bolt all the way out. Drag links NOTE: The axle should fall out at this point. To remove/replace a drag link: 8. Install the axle by following the previous steps in reverse order. 1. Remove the steering gear covers. 2. 9. Install the axle by following the previous steps in reverse order. Remove and discard the nut holding the drag link to the inboard steering gear using two 9/16” wrenches (one of them should be a slim-line wrench). See Figure 6B.82. 7.
STEERING-IVT 4. Loosen the jam nuts. Tie rod 5. Remove the spherical rod ends. To remove/replace the tie rod: NOTE: Count the number of turns to remove the spherical rod ends. 1. Remove the steering gear covers. 2. Remove and discard the nut holding the tie rod spherical rod ends to the inboard steering gear using two 9/16” wrenches (one of them should be a slim-line wrench). See Figure 6B.84. 6. Install new spherical rod ends.
STEERING-IVT Inboard steering gear 7. Install the king pin. To remove/replace the inboard steering gear or king pin: 8. Align the timing marks and install the inboard steering gear. 1. Remove the steering gear covers. 2. Remove and discard the nut holding the tie rod spherical rod ends to the inboard steering gear using two 9/16” wrenches (one of them should be a slim-line wrench). See Figure 6B.85. 3.
STEERING-IVT Pivot bar 6. To remove/replace the pivot bar: 1. Lift and safely support the front end of the tractor. 2. Remove the front axles by following the procedures described in the front wheels and axles section of this chapter. 3. Remove and discard the nut holding the drag link to the inboard steering gear using two 9/16” wrenches (one of them should be a slim-line wrench). See Figure 6B.88. Remove the pivot bar shoulder bolts. See Figure 6B.90. Shoulder bolts Pivot bar bracket Figure 6B.
STEERING-IVT 10. With the pivot bar on a bench, the inboard steering gear and the tie rod can be serviced. 11. Remove the tie rod by removing and discarding the nut holding the tie rod ends to the in board steering gear. See Figure 6B.92. 14. Start re-assembling the pivot bar by inserting the steering king pins into the pivot bar. Secure them with new cotter pins. See Figure 6B.93. 15. Install the axle assemblies. 16.
STEERING-IVT 20. Install the tie rod end using a new lock nut. 26. 21. Apply high quality grease to the frame and the inside of the pivot bar bracket, where the pivot bar rides. See Figure 6B.95. Perform a neutral adjustment and wheel alignment as described in the begining of this chapter. 27. Test drive the tractor in a safe area before returning to service. Apply grease here Figure 6B.95 22. Install the pivot bar by following steps 3 - 7 in reverse order.
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ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CHAPTER 7: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Introduction Components This chapter is divided into four sections: The I-series tractors have the Cub Cadet Rev-Tek system.. • Section 1: About this chapter and precautions • Section 2: Components This section will describe the location and operation of the electrical components on the tractor. Where appropriate, some disassembly or component removal instructions will be included. • • 1.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM • information and the proper tools, a technician should be able to efficiently diagnose most electrical problems. 2. NOTE: In the OFF position, the magneto primary windings are grounded, disabling the ignition system. The after-fire solenoid loses its power from the B terminal. This turns off the fuel supply. Key switch The Key Switch is similar to those used in a variety of MTD applications since 1999.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM • • Symptom-No crank, solenoid click: The problem lies in the heavy-gauge side of the starter circuit; battery cables, starter cable, solenoid, or ground issue. • Symptom-Crank, spark, but not fuel: First test for power at the solenoid, if no power then check for continuity from B to A1 in the START position. If power is reaching the red wire that connects to the A1 terminal in the start position, the problem lies down-stream of the key switch.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM • 2e. The RMC Module is in the same housing as the key switch, and is not available separately. For the purpose of diagnosis it is treated separately. Diagnosis of the module with the key switch introduces too many over-lapping variables. See Figure 7.3. When the RMC module is disarmed, the tractor will operate as MTD tractors have historically operated: If reverse is engaged when the electric PTO is ON, the PTO clutch will turn off.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ton. It will be confirmed that the module is ON by the illumination of the red LED on the module. B Looking at the plug head-on, it will be configured as shown in the diagram: There will be 8 female pin terminals. When probed, they should yield the results described in the following sections. See Figure 7.6. 2f. To identify a faulty RMC module: If the RMC module does not function as described, the RMC plug test should be the first step in diagnosis.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM • Circuitry: The yellow wire with black trace leads to the PTO switch, where it finds a path to ground when the PTO is ON. • Interpretation: If behavior is correct, the N.C. side of the PTO switch /circuit is functioning properly this terminal and the black probe is grounded, regardless of the key switch position. • Circuitry: This wire draws power directly from the B terminal on the key switch.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 3b. B-COM is in the safety shut-down circuit. It is a normally opened (NO) set of contacts. A circuit is completed from the M terminal on the key switch through the yellow wire to the Magneto terminal on the RMC module through the yellow wire with black trace when the contacts are closed. This gives the RMC module the ability to turn off the engine when the PTO is ON. 4. The Brake Switch is mounted to the inside of the frame on the right side. See Figure 7.8. 3c.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 5. The Reverse Safety Switch is a simple metal contact tang. When the drive pedal is pressed into reverse, the reverse switch is pushed into a bolt. This provides a path to ground. See Figure 7.9. • The yellow wire with white trace is connected to the front spade terminal on the seat safety switch. When the seat is vacant, the tab on the seat bracket closes a ground path in series with the PTO switch.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 8. The lighting circuit is hot whenever the engine is running. It does not draw from the battery, but runs directly off its own circuit on the alternator. See Figure 7.12. • There is a second red wire with white trace for the auxiliary power point that will supply a 5 amp service to the power point. CAUTION: DO NOT PUT A CIGARETTE LIGHTER IN THIS POWER POINT. this will cause the fuse to blow and can seriously damage the harness.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Electronics ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS The outdoor power equipment has historically had relatively simple electro-mechanical controls. Customer expectations and regulatory demands continue to drive change in the industry, while electronic controls have become relatively inexpensive. NOTE: Electrical diagnostic procedures and tools are the same for all Cub Cadet and MTD tractors. This section is written in a way to provide basic trouble shooting skills that can be used on any tractor.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM • Heat and Vibration: Heat and vibration are hard on most mechanical devices. The same is true of electronics. • Moisture: Moisture causes a nasty combination of corrosion and shorts. Corroded connections and wires create resistance that results in low voltage and ground issue. Many electronic components are “potted” or encased in a sealant that protects them from moisture. They are still vulnerable to bad inputs caused by corroded external connections and damaged switches.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 4. 5. Ohm’s Law Kirchhoff’s current law Ohm’s Law relates voltage, amperage, and resistance. It states that voltage is the product of resistance times current. Kirchhoff’s current law deals with nodes. Nodes are the junction of two or more wires or the junction of a wire to a component. • It is written as V = I x R. • In simplest terms, it goes like this: It takes 1 volt to push 1 amp through a resistance of 1 ohm (1 = 1 x 1).
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 6. Kirchhoff’s voltage law 7. Kirchhoff’s voltage law deals with voltage drops. A voltage drop is the amount of voltage used up or “dropped” by resistance in a circuit. Ohm’s law states that V = IxR, every component in a circuit has resistance, even the wires. To push current through resistance, it takes voltage. Kirchhoff’s voltage law states that the sum of all the voltage drops equals the source voltage.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Types of circuits Series/parallel There are three ways a circuit can be wired: Series/parallel circuits have some sections wired in series and some in parallel. See Figure 7.20. • Series • Parallel • Series/parallel Lamp Battery Series Lamp Series circuits are wired so that the current has only one path to follow. If one component in the system fails, the circuit will be broken and whole system will not work. See Figure 7.18. Lamp Lamp Switch Switch Figure 7.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Increased resistance Digital Multi-meter Increased resistance is, as the name implies, an increase in resistance. A DMM is the most useful tool to trouble-shoot any electrical system. There is an amazing variety of DMMs on the market. Some are very basic, others are tailored to specific industries, and some high-end graphing meters function like oscilloscopes. Even the most basic ones are quite versatile. See Figure 7.21.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Amperage Wiring diagram or schematic Most DMMs have a very limited capacity to test amperage (2-3 Amperes). When measuring current flow, the meter must be connected in series with the component to be measured. That means opening the circuit and having the circuit go through the meter. A wiring or a schematic diagram, and the ability to read it are very important in troubleshooting a circuit.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Self-powered continuity lights Ammeters and specialized charging system testers Continuity lights can indicate whether a circuit is complete or not, but they give no indication of resistance. They are handy for finding point-break when static-timing some older engines, but have largely been replaced by DMMs. Inductive ammeters are available in many forms. Some are as simple as a gauge to be held against the circuit in question when it is energized.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM To identify a specific charging system problem, isolate the components of the system and check their performance individually. NOTE: Usage of the DC Shunt tool is detailed in the 1995 and 1999 editions of their Update Seminar materials. 1. Kohler makes a proprietary Rectifier/Regulator tester (Kohler Part Number 25 761 20 and the up-dated version: 25 761 20-S). This tester works on Kohler regulator / rectifiers and the company claims it works on similar systems from other companies.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 2e. Interpretation: If the ohm meter indicates no continuity between the two the purple stator leads, there is a fault in the stator windings. If the ohm meter indicates continuity between either purple stator lead and ground, the stator windings are shorted to ground. 2b. Check the stator for resistance across the leads. It should be in the range of 0.1 -0.2Ω. See Figure 7.28.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Batteries 3f. With the engine off, connect Kohler tool #25 7651-20 to the regulator/rectifier: The two black leads go to the terminals normally connected to purple stator leads. The red lead goes to the center terminal (B+). The ground clip goes to ground. 1. Precautions: See Figure 7.32. ! CAUTION Batteries produce flammable and explosive gases, particularly during charging. 3g. Plug the tester into a 110V AC outlet, turn it ON and push the test button until it clicks.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 2. • Importance of battery charge level and condition: A fully charged battery that is in good condition is an important factor when trying to diagnose other parts of an electrical system: Some charging systems do not work if the system voltage falls below 6V. It takes a certain amount of voltage to excite the fields in the alternator. • Some solid-state components will not work if the system voltage falls below a given threshold.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Battery Testers: 6c. Squeeze the bulb on the hydrometer, then insert the hose into the cell. There are four major ways to check a battery: 6d. Release the bulb, drawing electrolyte into the hydrometer to the fill line. IMPORTANT: Hold the hydrometer straight up and down when drawing up the electrolyte. The float needs to float free, not rubbing against the sides of the hydrometer.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 2. NOTE: CCA stands for cold cranking amps. The rating should be on the battery for aftermarket batteries. For OEM batteries, contact the manufacturer for the CCA rating. Most riding mower batteries are 200-275 CCA. See Figure 7.34. Fixed load testing Fixed load testers (sometimes called toasters) are inexpensive load testers found at any auto parts store. See Figure 7.35. OEM batteries do not list the CCA’s Figure 7.35 Figure 7.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 3. 4. Capacitance testing Battery discharge test Occasionally a battery will discharge while sitting unused. To test for a battery that is “leaking” voltage: There are several brands of capacitance battery tester presently on the market. Capacitance battery testers use the battery being tested as their power source. These testers send a small AC signal through the battery to measure the capacity of the plate to hold a charge. 4a.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 6c. Take a methodical approach to finding the problem. As a rule of thumb, start at one end of the circuit and work to the other. 4e. If the battery is being checked independently of the equipment it powers, measure and note the battery voltage while it is disconnected, over a three-day period. 6d. The next step is to decide what method to use to troubleshoot the circuit. 4f. There should be less than a .2 volt drop in the readings. If there is more than a .
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Voltage Drop Test 7a. Starting with a fully charged battery and battery cable connections that are clean and tight, measure the battery voltage. See Figure 7.39. To review: • Ohm’s law states that it takes voltage to push current through a resistance. • Kirchhoff’s voltage law states that the sum of all the voltage drops equals the source voltage. • Combining those two laws, we see that any restriction in a circuit (e.g.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 9f. A similar ground-side test on a tractor with a slow-cranking starter motor can be conducted between the engine block and the negative battery post. See Figure 7.42. 9d. The voltage that shows-up on the meter is the voltage that is being used to pass current through a resistance in the circuit. 9e. Voltage drop on a good circuit should be less than 0.1 volts. A voltage drop reading on the meter of greater than 0.2 volts indicates a fairly substantial problem that demands attention.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 10. • Applying this principle to the positive side of the system. See Figure 7.43. As an example, if the tractor had a slow-turning starter, the ground-side voltage drop measured below 0.1 volts, and there was not a parasitic load on the engine (e.g. PTO clutch that is not fully disengaged), it would be logical for the technician to check voltage drop to the starter. See Figure 7.44. Figure 7.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 11. Testing switches: • Refer to the “COMPONENTS” section of this chapter that describes the function of the individual switches to be tested. • Switches can be tested “hot” by looking for voltage at the appropriate posts. This is not definitive, since the source of the voltage is not always confirmed. Checking for voltage does not work on switches that work by providing a ground path to the magneto primary windings or a solid state control device.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 12f. Switch the leads. Testing a diode: 12g. The meter should indicate no continuity. See Figure 7.49. 12a. Isolate the diode in the circuit. 12b. Set the DMM to the diode or Ω scale. See Figure 7.47. No continuity Silver band (-) (+) Diode scale Figure 7.49 Figure 7.47 12h. If the results do not match the above, replace the diode. 12c. Attach the negative lead of the DMM to the side of the diode with a band on it. 12d. Place the positive lead on the other side of the diode. 12e.
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CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT CHAPTER 8: CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT Cutting decks 5. The I-series comes with the option of a 42”, 46” or 50” deck. The procedure to remove the deck is the same for all of them. Slide the deck forward to unhook the front hanger. See Figure 8.2. To remove the deck: 1. Place the tractor on firm level ground and set the parking brake. 2. Lower the deck to the lowest cutting height. 3. Pull the deck pins on both sides and rotate them to keep them out. See Figure 8.1.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT Cleaning the deck Blades Cleaning debris off of the deck should be done every time the deck is removed. It is routine maintenance that will make the deck easier to work on and prolong the life of the deck and spindles. The condition of the blades will greatly effect the quality of the cut. The blades should be sharpened and balanced after every five acres, depending on local conditions. A dull blade tears the grass instead of cutting it.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT To remove the blades: 1. Remove the deck as described in the previous section of this chapter or lift the tractor using a professional grade lift. 2. Block the blade with a piece of wood to prevent it from spinning. 3. Remove the blade nuts using an impact wrench and a 15/16” socket. See Figure 8.3. • The blade can be tested by using a blade balancer. Grind metal from the heavy side until it balances evenly. 6.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT PTO belt To replace the PTO belt: Some cutting deck designs use a single belt to transfer power from the engine crankshaft directly to the blade spindles. 1. NOTE: Removal of the deck is not necessary, but makes it easier to route the belt around the spindles. Other cutting deck designs use one belt to transfer power from the engine crankshaft to a second belt that drives the blade spindles. 2.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT • For a 46” deck, See Figure 8.7. Timing belt To service the timing belt: 1. Remove the deck as describe at the begining of this chapter. 2. Remove the PTO belt by following the steps described in the previous section of this manual. 3. Remove the PTO belt idler spring. See Figure 8.9. Figure 8.7 • For a 42” timed “R” deck, See Figure 8.8. PTO belt PTO belt idler spring Timing belt Figure 8.9 4. Remove the timing belt idler stop using a pair of 9/16” wrenches.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT 7. NOTE: The idler pulley will back away from the idler stop bolt as the belt wears. The stop bolt should be adjusted after every 10 hours of use. 5. To install the timing belt turn the blades 90o apart. See Figure 8.13. Remove the timing belt idler spring. See Figure 8.11. ¡ Figure 8.13 NOTE: Failure to time the blades will result in the blades hitting each other. Timing belt idler spring NOTE: The timing marks line up with the blades and need to be 90o apart.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT Spindles 3. Each blade spindle is sold as a complete unit. The only replaceable parts are the pulley and nuts. The spindles are equipped with a grease fittings that should get one squirt of grease after every use of the deck wash system or every 10 hours of use. To reach the outer spindles, remove the spindle covers. See Figure 8.16. Spindle cover To replace a pulley: 1. Remove the deck as described at the beginning of this chapter. 2.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT To replace a spindle: Leaving the deck 1. Remove the deck as described at the beginning of this chapter. 2. Remove the blade following the steps described in the previous section of this chapter. For the best quality cut, the deck must be level side to side and the front of the deck should be 1/4” - 3/8” lower than the rear of the deck. 3. Remove the spindle covers. See Figure 8.16. 4. Slip the PTO belt off of the spindle pulley that is to be serviced. 5.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT 3. Working from the left side of the tractor, loosen, but do not remove, the bolt on the left deck hanger bracket. See Figure 8.19. 2. Measure the distance from the front of the blade tip to the ground and the rear of the blade tip to the ground. NOTE: The front measurement taken should be between 1/4” - 3/8” less than the rear measurement. Determine the approximate distance necessary for proper adjustment and proceed, if necessary, to the next step. 3.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT Deck Gauge Wheel Adjustment Deck Rear Roller Adjustment The cutting decks are of a “floating” design. This means that they are suspended above the ground. The gauge wheels occasionally touch the ground. They are designed to bump the deck up and over irregularities. This prevents scalping damage to the turf and to the deck. The rear rollers on the mower deck are not designed to carry the weight of the deck.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT 50" Deck ONLY Deck lift shaft assembly bushings NOTE: The 50" deck roller assembly index bracket has five adjustment holes. A The deck lift shaft assembly bushings for the Iseries tractor can be replaced with out removing the deck lift shaft assembly. To replace the bushings: While supporting the roller assembly, remove clevis pin and withdraw the clevis pins from both of the roller index brackets. See Figure 8.23. 1.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT 5. Deck lift shaft assembly removal/replacement 1. Remove the deck by following the steps described at the beginning of this chapter. 2. Remove the fender by following the steps described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis. 3. Remove the hairpin clips that hold the top of the deck lift cables and slide the cables out of the deck lift shaft assembly. See Figure 8.25. Remove the E-clips that retain the bushings. See Figure 8.27.
CUTTING DECKS AND LIFT SHAFT Deck lift links and cables The deck lift links have two functions. The first function is to support the rear of the deck. The second function is to raise or lower the deck in response to movement of the deck lift lever. To accomplish the second function, the deck lift cables run from the deck lift shaft assembly, over a pulley to the lift links. As with most tractors made by Cab Cadet there are two holes in the lift link that the lift cable can go into.
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MAINTENANCE INTERVALS CHAPTER 9: MAINTENANCE INTERVALS Lubrication The spark plugs To help keep the I-series in proper running order, Cub Cadet recommends the following lubrication intervals be used (adjustable to local conditions). Use a high quality petroleum grease to lubricate the tractor. The spark plugs should be checked, cleaned and re-gapped on a monthly basis or every 100 hours of use. The plugs should be replaced every six months or 300 hours of use.
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS 2. Air filter and foam pre cleaner Remove the spark plugs with a 5/8” spark plug socket. See Figure 9.2. A dirty air filter and/or foam pre cleaner can reduce engine power, increase fuel consumption and make starting more difficult. 5/8” socket The foam pre cleaner should be checked before each use and cleaned every 25 hours. The air filter should be cleaned before each use and replaced every two months or 50 hours of use. To check the air filter and pre cleaner: 1.
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS 3. Remove the air filter and pre cleaner. Oil change 4. Slide the pre cleaner off of the air filter. See Figure 9.5. The oil change interval is every 100 hrs. NOTE: The first oil change should be preformed at 5 hours. Pre cleaner To change the oil: Air filter 1. Remove the cap from the oil drain. See Figure 9.6. drain cap Oil drain Figure 9.5 5. Install by following the above steps in reverse order. To clean a pre cleaner: 1.
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS 5. After all of the oil has been drained, close the oil drain by pushing it in. 6. Remove the drain hose. 7. Place the cap back on the oil drain. 8. Fill engine with new oil. Use a good quality 10w30 motor oil that meets the specifications recommended by Kohler. 9. Check the dip stick to verify that the oil is at the proper level before returning to service. Oil filter To replace the oil filter: 1. Drain the oil by following the previously described steps. 2.
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS Fuel system Fuel filter What you should know about fuel. A dirty fuel filter can result in a lean run condition. The fuel filter should be replaced every 100 hours. Most of the fuel presently available in North America is oxygenated to some extent. This is commonly done through the addition of ethanol. Most engines offered for sale on outdoor power equipment in the North American markets are designed to tolerate no more than 10% ethanol by volume To replace the fuel filter: 1.
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS Clean the engine Air cooled engines cool better if they are clean. Check for nesting or signs of nesting especially after dormant season storage. See Figure 9.10. Obstructed air filter Mouse nest Figure 9.
