Table of Contents Table of Contents 1 2 Introduction.........................................................................................Section 1.............................Page Safety.......................................................................................................... 1-1.....................................1-1 Model and Serial Numbers..........................................................................1-2.....................................1-1 3 Fasteners.............
Table of Contents Drive Axle Service................................................................. .Section 3.............................Page Lift the Big Country and Remove the Drive Wheels........................3-1....................................3-1 Chain Lubrication........................................................................... 3-2.....................................3-2 Chain Retention............................................................................. 3-3..................
Table of Contents Front Suspension................................................................................Section 6............................Page Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Front Wheels............................ 6-1.....................................6-1 Front Suspension and Steering Component Inspection............................. 6-2..................................... 6-2 1 Checking and Adjusting Front Wheel Alignment.........................................6-3.............
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Section 1: Introduction Section 1: Introduction 1. Safety 1.1. Before servicing the Big Country, technicians should be familiar with the vehicle and the Operator’s Manual that applies to it. There are important instructions that pertain to safe and correct operation and service of the Big Country contained in the Operator’s Manual. 1.2. 2.4. If the tag comes off, or if the seat plate is removed, the servicing dealer can get a new tag issued by calling Cub Cadet. 2.5.
Section 1: Introduction 2.8. 2.9. 4. The engine family and specification numbers are located on a tag on the rear cylinder shroud of the engine. Special Tools NOTE: We are not in the tool business. Where special tools will make a specific job easier for the technician, we offer them. The transmission identification number is located on a flat surface adjacent to the dipstick. See Figure 2.9. 4.1.
Section 1: Introduction 4.3. 4.5. Universal Joint Spacer Tool: See Figure 4.3. Universal Joint Spacer Tool Two 1/4” by 4 1/2” long dowel pins are used to lock the roller-type chain Tensioner in the released position. The can be made or purchased locally. See Figure 4.5. Dowel pins used to lock chain tensioners in the released position Part Number 703-05104 Side of Frame Between Drive Axles Figure 4.3 4.4.
Section 1: Introduction 6. Lubrication Specifications. Application Type Amount Part Number Engine Oil general use 10W-30 API: SJ 1.16 qt. 1.48 qt. with / filter 737-3030A Engine Oil sub-freezing 5W-30 API: SJ 1.16 qt. 1.48 qt. with / filter Obtain Locally Gear Lube Drive System Fluid Plus 189 oz. 5.9 qt.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 1. Shift Linkage 2. NOTE: The shift linkage and brake linkage of the Big Country are tied together by a shift interlock mechanism that prevents the operator from shifting gears while the vehicle is in motion. The brake pedal must be depressed before the gearshift lever will move. The effect is the same whether the brake is held down by the operator’s foot or by the parking brake.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 2.8. 2.10. To Remove the shift rod, remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that connect it to the transmission shift arm. See Figure 2.10. Inspect the shift interlock mechanism. If the interlock mechanism does not work properly, refer to the “Shift Interlock and Clutch Pulley Brake Adjustment” section of this manual. See Figure 2.8. Transmission Lever Shift Rod Interlock Arm Clevis Pin Hairpin Clip Figure 2.10 I 2.11.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 2.13. Withdraw the pivot pin. See Figure 2.13. 3.3. Remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that connect the clevis to the transmission shift arm. 3.4. Rotate the clevis to thread it up or down the length of the shift link. See Figure 3.4. Pivot Pin 2 Transmission Lever Figure 2.13 Clevis 2.14. Remove the shift lever. 3.5. NOTE: Apply white lithium grease to all pivot points on assembly.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages NOTE: Internal transmission damage, or collision damage may result if the differential lock lever is not operated in accordance with the instructions in the “Big Country Operator’s Manual”. NOTE: When the brake is released and a gear is engaged, the pin that connects the clevis to the transmission shift lever should be centered in a slot in the interlock arm. If it is not, refer to the “Shift Interlock and Clutch Brake Adjustment” section of this manual.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 5.4. Pivot the cable in the differential lock arm so that the cable aligns with the slot in the arm. This will allow the barrel at the end of the cable to be remove from the arm. See Figure 5.4. 5.8. Unhook the spring at the end of the cable from the differential lock lever. See Figure 5.8. Differential Lock Lever 2 Slot Differential Lock Arm Differential Lock Cable Figure 5.8 Figure 5.4 5.5. 5.9. Trace the cable forward to the bracket on the frame.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 5.19. Tighten the second jam nut against the bracket to secure the cable. 5.13. Withdraw the pivot pin far enough to clear the differential lock lever, and remove the lever. See Figure 5.13. 5.20. Insert the barrel on the end of the cable through the hole in the differential lock arm by aligning the cable with the slot in the arm. Partially Removed Pivot Pin 5.21.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 6.3. When the differential lock lever is released, there should be slight slack in the cable. 6.4. When fully engaged, the differential lock arm should move up at least 3/4” as measured along the cable. See Figure 6.4. NOTE: The differential lock bracket is located at the right rear corner of the transmission, beneath the air filter. 7. Brake System Description 7.1. There are two multi-disc wet brakes inside the transmission.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 8.5. 8.9. Remove the jam nut from the end of the brake cable core using a deep ½” socket on an extension. See Figure 8.5. Slip the cable core through the slot in the bracket. 8.10. Working from the front of the Big Country, remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that connect the brake cable clevises to the brake pedal. See Figure 8.10. Cable Core(Grip here if necessary.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 8.14. Slip the threaded end of the replacement cable into the yoke of the cable to be replaced. The nut should fit into the throat of the yoke, locking the two cables together. See Figure 8.14. 8.18. Slip the boot off the end of the cable housing and remove the large jam nut. See Figure 8.18. 2 Clevis End of Old Cable Threaded End of New Cable Figure 8.18 Figure 8.14 8.19.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 8.30. Apply a small amount of white E.P. chassis lube grease to the clevis pin, and install it through the brake pedal, the clevises of all three cables. 8.25. Working at the front of the Big Country, thread the first jam nut all the way up the cable housing end until it stops against the shoulder. See Figure 8.25. 8.31. Secure the clevis pin with a hairpin clip. 8.32.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 9.6. 9.12. Check the parking brake latch for correct operation. See Figure 9.12. Pull the threaded end of the cable core as far out (back) as possible, while pushing the brake cam arm forward until resistance is felt. See Figure 9.6. 2 Parking Brake Switch Parking Brake Latch (Engaged) Pull Cam Arm Pull Cable Upper Notch Brake Pedal Lower Notch Figure 9.12 Figure 9.6 NOTE: The latch mechanism is visible beneath the dashboard.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 9.15. Slide the switch forward until the plunger on the switch makes an audible “click”, indicating the closure of the contacts within the switch. NOTE: The ferrule is threaded onto the end of the cable housing. NOTE: The plunger need not be fully depressed. 10.3. Push the ferrule down to release it from the lockout arm. 9.16. Secure the switch in this position by tightening the screws that hold it to the bracket. 10.4.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 10.17. Secure the pin with a hairpin clip. 10.7. Loosen the jam nuts that hold the clutch pulley brake and shift interlock cable to the bracket using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. 10.18. Close the hood, and install the two bolts, rubber washers, and flat washers that secure it using a 1/2” wrench. NOTE: A crowfoot socket may be helpful. 10.19.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 11.9. Tighten the jam nut to lock the adjustment. 11.5. If either arm binds or exhibits excessive play, inspect the bushings that the arm pivots on. See Figure 11.5. Ferrule 11.10. Loosen the jam nuts on either side of the ferrule using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. 11.11. Thread the ferrule up or down the threaded end of the cable housing to reach a point where the pin on the ferrule slips easily through the hole in the clutch pulley brake arm.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages • Equal and effective application of both sets of brakes (left and right). 12.4. Remove the two bolts that fasten the plenum to the frame using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. • Complete engagement of shift lock-out mechanism when the brakes are released. 12.5. Lift the plenum straight up, and remove it. See Figure 12.5. • Complete disengagement of shift lock-out mechanism when brakes are applied.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 12.15. Hook the spring through the hole in the interlock arm, and stretch the spring to allow the shoulder bolt to reach the slot in the bracket. See Figure 12.15. 12.9. Remove the nut from the shoulder bolt that the lock-out arm pivots on using a 9/16” wrench and a ¾” wrench. See Figure 12.9. Hook-up spring Figure 12.9 Figure 12.15 12.10.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 13. NOTE: The mounting hole is slotted to allow adjustment. Clutch Pulley Brake Arm Removal and Replacement 13.1. Remove the belt guard using the procedure described in the “Belt Removal” section of this manual. NOTE: If the lock-out link forces the shift arm to one side or the other it will apply a constant load to the shift collar inside the transmission, reducing service life. 13.2.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 13.13. To install the clutch pulley brake arm, hook the return spring through the hole in the interlock arm, and position the brake arm on the bracket. 13.9. On the bench, remove the nut from the shoulder bolt that the clutch pulley brake arm pivots on using a 9/16” wrench and a ¾” wrench. See Figure 13.9. NOTE: The end of the spring that hooks outward connects to the clutch pulley brake arm. Brake Arm 13.14.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 14. 14.4. Roll the belt off of the driven clutch pulley. See Figure 14.4. Belt Removal and Replacement 14.1. The Belt should be checked for wear every 40 hours. This is a visual inspection, and does not necessarily involve belt removal. NOTE: The belt is the primary wear item in the drive system. If drive system performance begins to degrade, inspect or replace the belt. 2 NOTE: The driving clutch should engage the belt at 2,100 R.P.M.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 15. NOTES Driven Clutch Pulley Removal and Replacement 15.1. Set the parking brake 15.2. Place the shift lever in forward gear. 15.3. Loosen the bolt that secures the driven clutch pulley to the input shaft of the transmission using a 17 mm wrench. 15.4. Remove the drive belt from the driven clutch pulley as described in the “Drive Belt Removal and Replacement” section of this manual. See Figure 15.4. 16.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 17. 16.6. Slip the clutch off the end of the crankshaft. See Figure 16.6. Transmission Removal and Replacement 17.1. Remove the two bolts, flat washers, and rubber washers that secure the hood using a 9/16” wrench. 17.2. Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 17.2. Negative Battery Cable Figure 16.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 17.13. Loosen the clamp bolt using a ½” wrench. See Figure 17.13. 17.6. Remove the drain plug from the transmission using a 17mm wrench and allow the transmission lubricant to drain. NOTE: If the transmission is not being removed to perform an internal repair, it is not necessary to drain the fluid. Clamp Bolt Shift Arm Jam Nut 17.7. Replace the plug when the transmission has drained completely. Tighten it to a torque of 2236 ft-lbs using a 17 mm wrench.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 17.24. Remove the bolt that holds cable clamp securing the wiring harness to the transmission using a 12 mm wrench. 17.17. Lift the bracket out as an assembly. 17.18. Remove the nut, bolt, and flat washer that hold the upper transmission support to the transmission using 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 17.18. Bolt to Transmission 17.25.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 17.30. Remove the air filter assembly. 17.35. Remove the right drive axle assembly. 17.31. Loosen the clamp bolts that hold the right universal joint onto the right out-put shaft of the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 17.31. 17.36. Slip the universal joint and sprocket off of the output shaft. See Figure 17.36. RightAxle Axle Right Disconnected Disconnected Clamp Bolts Figure 17.36 Figure 17.31 17.37.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 17.42. Loosen the jam nuts that hold the left brake cable to the bracket on the frame using two 7/8” wrenches. 17.49. Lift the transmission out of the Big Country. See Figure 17.49. 17.43. Remove the rear jam nut and pull the cable housing forward so that the cable core will pass through the slot in the bracket. 2 17.44. Move the brake cable out of the way. 17.45. Repeat the steps used to disconnect the left side brake cable on the right side. 17.46.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 18.8. Remove the output shaft, three steel plates and two friction plates. See Figure 18.8. 18.4. Using a 12mm socket wrench remove the ten bolts securing the left side brake cover to the transmission housing. The left side contains the transmission input shaft. See Figure 18.4. Brake Cam Arm Friction Plate Steel Plate Brake Cover Output Shaft Dowel Pin Location Figure 18.8 Figure 18.4 18.9. Repeat steps 18.4 through 18.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 18.15. Use a 12mm socket wrench to remove the sixteen perimeter bolts from the transmission housing. 18.19. Lift and rotate the shift arm far enough to allow the shift block to be removed, then remove the shift block. NOTE: Support transmission so the transmission input shaft is not resting on the table. NOTE: If the shift block and shift collar show abnormal wear or discoloration, the shift rod or the shift interlock may be out of adjustment. 18.16.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 18.24. Remove the differential and differential lock shaft as an assembly. See Figure 18.24. NOTE: Use of a three-jaw puller will assist in removing worn or damaged bearings. Differential Lock Shaft Differential Assembly 18.29. Check the final gear for tooth wear. 18.30. Check the differential side gears for abnormal tooth wear and spline damage.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 18.32. Check the pins on the differential lock slider. See Figure 18.32. Differential Housing NOTE: Make certain side gear thrust washer is centered before tightening the fasteners that hold the differential housings and final gear together. Differential Bearing 18.34. Apply thread locking compound such as Loctite 242 to the bolts that hold the differential housings and final gear together. 18.35.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 18.41. Remove the differential lock shaft seal from the right transmission housing. 18.37. Clean and inspect the input shaft. See Figure 18.37. Reverse Sprocket 18.42. Thoroughly clean and inspect the transmission housings. Remove all traces of old sealant from the sealing surfaces. Remove all traces of old transmission fluid from the inside of the housings. Bearing Dogs NOTE: The use of abrasive cleaning wheels is not recommended.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 18.46. Install the differential lock fork and shaft, as an assembly, back into the right transmission housing. See Figure 18.46. 18.49. Install the chain on the input shaft sprocket and reduction sprocket and install both shafts into the right side case as a unit. See Figure 18.49. Snap Ring Input Shaft Linked to Reduction Shaft 2 Washer Differential Lock Shaft Figure 18.46 Figure 18.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 18.56. Using an appropriate driver and seal protector, install the seal on the differential lock shaft. 18.51. Place a small amount of grease on the shift block and place it in the shift collar. See Figure 18.51. 18.57. Install the shift arm plate on the shift arm, and secure it with a bolt. Tighten the bolt to a torque of 203 - 260 in-lbs. Shim Washer Spacer 18.58. Proceed to brake assembly. 18.59.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 18.66. When installing the brake cover lower the cover and rotate until brake actuator arm touches the actuator plate and enters its opposing support bore. At that point the actuator balls will enter their individual pockets. Tapping lightly with a hammer handle will assist in seating the cover plate to the brake housing. 18.61. Install the brake shaft making certain the shaft has engaging the friction discs and the inner bearing. 18.62.
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages 19.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service Section 3: Drive Axle Service 1. Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Axle Wheels 1.1. Park the Big Country on firm, level ground. 1.2. Raise the bed if service is to be performed in the engine compartment. 1.3. Turn the key to the off position, and remove it from the key switch. 1.4. Set the parking brake. 1.5. Place the gearshift in “Neutral”. 1.6. Chock the front wheels. 1.7.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 3. 1.12. To install the wheel, lift it onto the hub. It will rest on the center boss of the mounting flange. The valve stem must face out. Chain Retention If the chain retention is an issue: 3.1. 1.13. Rotate the wheel to align the holes in the wheel with the holes in the mounting flange. 1.14. Insert one lug bolt through the wheel into the mounting flange, and thread it into the mounting flange finger tight.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service NOTE: There are index marks on each chain tensioner that may be used to check the amount of available travel. See Figure 3.5. NOTE: Allowable mis-alignment is 1/8”. Allowable flange run-out is .020”.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 4. 4.5. Chain Tension Adjustment (Early units Equipped With Fixed Chain Guides) NOTE: Chains are used to transfer power from each of the front drive axles to the rear drive axles. The chains are set tight from the factory, and will not reach normal operating length and tension until the Big Country has been used. NOTE: Early production Big Country vehicles used adjustable lower chain guides to set chain tension.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 4.9. 5.2. If the travel of the chain guide is not sufficient to reach the specified chain tension, the half-link adjacent to the master link can be removed to shorten the chain. See Figure 4.9. Lower the bracket far enough for the chain guide to clear the chain, then remove the chain guide. See Figure 5.2. Chain guide fits beneath chain Master Link Half Link 3 Figure 5.2 Figure 4.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 6. Chain Removal and Replacement (Early Units Equipped With Fixed Chain Guides) 6.1. Lift and support the Big Country as described in the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Axle Wheels” section of this manual. 6.8. Route the chain beneath the front drive axle assembly, and over the lower chain guide toward the rear sprocket. See Figure 6.8. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the wheels if the chain is the only item to be serviced. 6.2.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 6.11. Wrap the front end of the chain around the front sprocket. The end of the chain should be near the top of the sprocket. See Figure 6.11. 7. Chain and Tensioner Removal and Replacement (Units Equipped With Roller Tensioners) NOTE: Two locking pins are necessary for servicing the chain tensioners and chain. They can be easily made by cutting 1/4” steel round stock into two 4 1/2” lengths. See Figure 7.0.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 7.4. 7.7. Push the upper tensioner roller down to relieve tension from the chain and lock it in position using a 1/4” steel dowel pin. See Figure 7.4. Unbolt the air filter bracket from the air intake shoulder using a 13mm wrench, and remove the air filter. See Figure 7.7. Air Intake Shoulder Air Filter Bracket Roller Locking Pin Bolts Upper Chain Tensioner Lower Chain Tensioner Figure 7.7 Figure 7.4 7.8.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 7.9. 7.12. Mark the hole that the smaller indexing bolt goes through, and remove the indexing bolt using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 7.12. Remove the roller and flat washers along with the bolt. See Figure 7.9. Shoulder Bolt Paint Mark Roller Indexing Bolt Hole (Threaded) 3 Mounting Bolt Flat Washer Locking Pin Hole Figure 7.9 Figure 7.12 7.10. Push down on the tensioner arm to relieve the load from the 1/4” pin, withdraw the pin, and carefully release the tensioner arm.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 7.21. Apply Loctite 242 or an equivalent thread locking compound to the mounting bolt and the indexing bolt for the lower chain tensioner. 7.15. Disconnect the master link of the chain using a pair of needle-nose pliers. See Figure 7.15. 7.22. Position the lower chain tensioner in the frame of the Big Country, and install the mounting bolt finger-tight. Upper Run of Chain Lower Chain Tensioner 7.23.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 7.34. Push the upper tensioner arm down until the locking hole in the arm aligns with the locking hole in the frame, and insert the 1/4” steel locking pin to hold it in place. See Figure 7.34. 8. Spring and Shock Assembly Removal and Replacement 8.1. Perform the steps described in the “Lifting Big Country and Removing Tires” section of this manual.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 8.5. 8.11. Remove the hairpin clip that secures the clevis pin connecting the lift motor to the bed. See Figure 8.11. Lift the prop rod to allow the “T” slot in the prop rod to clear the pin on the bracket. See Figure 8.5. Hairpin Clip Clevis Pin Rear Screw Removed Figure 8.5 8.6. Figure 8.11 8.12. Remove the pin, tilt the bed as near to vertical as possible, and secure it there in a safe fashion.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 8.25. Pull out and down on the tool to compress the spring. While the spring is compressed, push the bolt through the top mounting eye of the spring and shock assembly. See Figure 8.25. 8.15. Pull out and down on the lever to compress the spring. While the spring is compressed, remove the bolt, washer, and spacers by pushing the bolt out with a dowel pin. See Figure 8.15. 3/8” X 1 3/8” Dowel Pin Pull 3 Displace Bolt With Pin Figure 8.25 Figure 8.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 9.14. Remove the nuts from the vertical bolts that hold the belt guard to the cross member behind the seats using a pair of ½” wrenches. NOTE: Set and release the parking brake as necessary to reach and loosen each bolt. 9.4. Tilt both seats forward. 9.5. Loosen the hose clamps that secure the hose between the plenum behind the seats and the inlet port on the air filter assembly using a screwdriver or a 5/16” driver. See Figure 9.5.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 9.18. Release the bale clips that hold the cover on the air filter, and pull the cover off. 9.22. Examine the rubber travel stops while the axle assembly is out. 9.19. Remove pinch bolts that hold the air filter assembly to the air intake shoulder using a 13mm wrench. NOTE: The travel stops can be replaced without removing the axle assembly, but they are much easier to reach with the axle removed. 9.20.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 10. 10.4. While the sprocket is removed, inspect the universal joint for play between the yoke and the cross (loose needle bearings), stiffness, stripped threads, damaged flange surface, damaged splines, loose or missing grease zerks. If any of these conditions exist the universal joint should be repaired before the Big Country is returned to service. See Figure 10.4. Front Drive Sprocket Removal and Replacement 10.1.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 11. Universal Joint Removal and Replacement 11.7. Install the front drive sprocket to the universal joint. 11.1. Remove the front drive axle as described in the “Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” section. NOTE: The hole in the sprocket must align with the grease zerk that feeds the spline. 11.2. Remove the front drive sprocket as described in the “Front Drive Sprocket Removal and Replacement” section. 11.8.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 12.3. In a universal joint press, push one cup in the end yoke in as far as possible without coming out of the bore in the yoke. See Figure 12.3. 11.17. Slide the universal joint outward, until it pinches the tool in position. See Figure 11.17. Universal Joint Spacer Tool Figure 11.17 Figure 12.3 11.18. Tighten the nuts on the universal joint pinch bolts to a torque of 48-58 ft-lbs. 12.4.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 12.11. Use the universal joint press to push one cup in the center yoke as far as possible in one direction. See Figure 12.11. 12.7. Drive the end yoke in the opposite direction, forcing the second cup partially out of the bore in the yoke. See Figure 12.7. 3 Figure 12.7 Figure 12.11 12.12. Support the cross in a vise and drive the center yoke in the same direction that the cup was pushed. See Figure 12.12. 12.8. Remove the second cup. 12.9.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 12.20. Carefully install the opposite cup. 12.15. Drive the center yoke in the opposite direction, forcing the second cup partially out of the bore. See Figure 12.15. 12.21. Press the second cup deep into, but not completely through its bore, using the universal joint press. See Figure 12.21. Figure 12.15 Figure 12.21 12.16. Carefully remove the cross and remaining cup from the center yoke. 12.22. Install a new snap ring behind the second cup. 12.17.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 12.31. Install the snap ring behind the first cup. See Figure 12.31. 12.26. Press a new cup partially into one bore of the end yoke. See Figure 12.26. 3 Figure 12.26 Figure 12.31 12.27. Seat the accessible end of the cross in the opposite cup. 12.32. Align the yokes with a blow from a soft hammer to insure smooth operation. See Figure 12.32. 12.28.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 13.4. Remove the circlip that holds the rear sprocket to the axle shaft, using a circlip tool. See Figure 13.4. 12.33. Repeat the process on the second side of the universal joint. See Figure 12.33. Aligning Yoke Snap Ring Rear Sprocket Washers and Nuts on Axle Pivot Bolts Figure 12.33 Figure 13.4 NOTE: If any joint fails to move easily, undue loads will be placed on the transmission. 13.5.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 15. 13.6. Examine the rubber travel stops while the axle assembly is out. They can be replaced without removing the axle assembly, but they are much easier to reach with the axle removed. Axle Bushing Removal and Replacement 15.1. Remove the axle assembly as described in the “Drive Axle Service: Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” or “Rear Suspension Service: Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” section of this manual. 13.7.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 15.4. After the first bearing is driven out, a 15/16” socket may be used in conjunction with the soft drift to drive the second bearing (inner bearing) out. NOTE: Current production Big Country vehicles use non-shouldered sleeve bearings. These can be identified by the external gussets on the front drive axles and internal gussets on the rear drive axles. See Figure 15.7. 15.5. Lubricate the metal inner bushings and the sleeve bearings with Benaline 920 grease. 15.6.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 16. Axle and Bearing Removal and Replacement 16.4. Drive the inner axle bearing out of the axle assembly using a hammer and soft drift. When driving the bearing, apply force to the outer race. 16.1. Remove the axle assembly as described in the “Drive Axle Service: Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” or “Rear Suspension Service: Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” section of this manual. 16.5.
Section 3: Drive Axle Service 16.12. Position the inner axle bearing over the splined end of the axle and press it into place. See Figure 16.12. 16.9. Clean any paint or corrosion from the machined recesses that the axle bearings fit into. 16.10. To put the drive axle assembly together, press the outer axle bearing (larger internal diameter) onto the axle shaft. See Figure 16.10. Press Bearing Press Axle Support Axle Figure 16.12 Support Inner Race of Bearing 16.13.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly 1. Engine and Transmission Support Assembly: Removal and Replacement as a Unit 1.4. Lift and remove the bed with an assistant or a suitable lifting device. See Figure 1.4. NOTE: The engine and transmission can be removed individually. This procedure is for the removal of the engine support as an assembly. 1.1.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly 1.7. Cover the carburetor to prevent foreign objects from entering the engine. 1.8. Unbolt the air filter bracket from the air intake shoulder using a 13mm wrench, and remove the filter. See Figure 1.8. Air Filter Mounting Bolts 1.17. Carefully disconnect the negative cable from the battery using a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 1.17. Negative Battery Cable Air Intake Shoulder Throttle Cable Choke Cable Upper Transmission Support Figure 1.17 1.18.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly 1.21. Disconnect the bullet terminal on the red with black tracer 14 AWG harness wire from the black wire with red trace that leads to the engine ignition. See Figure 1.21. 1.23. Match mark and disconnect the bullet connectors that join the brown 14 AWG harness wire and the gray 14 AWG harness wire to the gray alternator leads from the engine. See Figure 1.23.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly 1.33. Move the plenum far enough forward to gain access to the bolts that hold the belt guard to the upper cross-member at the front of the engine compartment. 1.27. Disconnect the black 8 AWG ground cable from the frame (at the isolator) using a ½” wrench NOTE: Insure that the ground cable from the engine to the frame has a clean connection at both ends, otherwise the starter motor and charging system will not work properly. 1.34.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly 1.43. Remove the bolt that secures the driven clutch pulley to the input shaft of the transmission using a 17mm wrench. See Figure 1.43. 1.49. Remove the shift interlock bracket as an assembly. See Figure 1.49. Shift Interlock assembly Driven Clutch Pulley Figure 1.49 Figure 1.43 1.50. Slide the driven clutch pulley off of the input shaft. 1.44. Place the transmission shift lever in Neutral. 1.51.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly 1.53. Remove the two bolts and flat washers that hold the parcel bin in the recess under the passenger seat using a ½” wrench. 1.59. Loosen the jam nuts that hold the differential lock cable to the differential lock bracket using a 1/2” wrench. 1.54. Remove the parcel bin. 1.60. Slip the cable housing out of the bracket, rotate the cable so that the cable aligns with the slot in the differential lock arm, and disengage the cable from the arm.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly 1.63. Remove the spring and shock assembly from the left front drive axle, as described in the “Spring and Shock Assembly Removal” section of this manual. See Figure 1.63. 1.66. Disconnect the rear of both brake return springs by unhooking them from the rib in the engine support assembly. 1.67. Remove the Jam nuts from the end of each brake cable using a deep 1/2” socket. See Figure 1.67.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly 1.75. Lift the engine and transmission support assembly far enough to take the weight off of the isolators. 1.72. Remove the nuts and bolts that fasten the front of the engine and transmission support bracket to the isolator mounts using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 1.72. 1.76. Push the engine and transmission support assembly far enough to the right to disengage the left output shaft of the transmission from the inner left universal joint.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly 1.83. Reverse the removal process to install the engine and transmission support assembly. NOTE: The engine support isolators can be unbolted from the frame and removed using a ½” wrench. The bolts attach to threaded inserts in the frame, and there is no nut to reach on the bottom of the frame. See Figure 1.80. NOTE: Check the brake adjustment as the brake cables and shift lockout mechanism are installed.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly 2.2. Remove the nut, bolt and washer that hold the upper transmission support to the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches. 2.3. Remove the upper transmission support. See Figure 2.3. 2.6. Reach under the starter motor with a 17mm box wrench, and position it securely on the one of the nuts that secure the engine to the engine support assembly. See Figure 2.6.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly 2.14. Attach an appropriate lifting device to the lift eyes, and carefully remove the engine from the Big Country. See Figure 2.14. 2.10. Push the engine forward and rotate it to loosen the belt. See Figure 2.10. Figure 2.10 Figure 2.14 NOTE: Do not damage the oil drain valve on the front of the sump: it extends below the engine support assembly. 2.15. To install the engine in the Big Country, reverse the steps used to remove the engine.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly 3. Engine Support Assembly Isolator Mounts (Rear), Removal and Replacement 3.1. Position the Big Country on a firm level surface in a location that leaves room to work around the rear of the vehicle. 3.2. Turn the engine off, remove the key, and set the parking brake. 3.3.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly 4. Engine Support Assembly Isolator Mounts (Front), Removal and Replacement 4.1. Position the Big Country on a firm level surface in a location that leaves room to work around both sides of the vehicle. 4.2. Lift and support the bed. 4.3. Turn the engine off, remove the key, and set the parking brake. 4.4. Tilt both seats forward. 4.5.
Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly 5. Torque Table: Eng. and Trans.
Section 5: The Fuel System Section 5: The Fuel System 1. Precautions 2.2. 1.1. Clean, fresh gasoline with a pump octane rating of 86 or higher is to be used. 1.2. Do not fill the fuel tank beyond the mold-parting seam. 1.3. Use common sense when dealing with gasoline: it is flammable and toxic. Common sense precautions include but are not limited to: • Do not fill the fuel tank or service any part of the fuel system in the presence of any heat source, sparks, or open flame.
Section 5: The Fuel System 2.4. Any of these items can be removed by disconnecting any hoses or wires that are attached to them and gently pulling or prying them out of the fuel tank. 2.5. Each of these items fits through a grommet in the top of the tank. Install the grommet first, then the device. 2.6. The fuel level switch is of a normally closed design. When the fuel tank is full, continuity is broken.
Section 5: The Fuel System 3. Fuel Tank Removal and Replacement 3.1. Park the Big Country on a firm, level surface. Set the Parking Brake, and remove the key from the key switch. 3.2. Drain the fuel tank into an approved container. 3.10. Remove the four bolts that secure the console support plate to the frame using a ½” wrench. See Figure 3.10.
Section 5: The Fuel System 3.17. Unhook the spring on the end of the differential lock cable from the differential lock lever. 3.22. Maneuver the fuel tank hold down bar out from between the frame cross-members, and remove it. 3.18. Remove the differential lock lever. NOTE: The gearshift lever may be left connected to the shift rod. 3.23.
Section 5: The Fuel System • NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the filler cap from the filler neck. 3.25. To install the fuel tank, reverse the removal procedure. A damaged pick-up tube within the tank. This could be a blockage, or an air leak somewhere above the level of the fuel in the tank. See Figure 4.4.A. NOTES Fuel Valve Fuel Pick-up Tube Grommet 4. Fuel Pump Performance 4.1.
Section 5: The Fuel System 4.5. 4.6. 4.7. If the pump makes no noise at all, confirm that an electrical problem is not to blame. If the fuel pump has good power supply and good ground, yet fails to operate, it is bad. If the pump runs normally, but fails to supply fuel to the carburetor, check the fuel line between the pump and the engine for kinks or obstructions. This includes the second fuel filter that is located under the air intake shoulder. 5. Fuel Pump Removal and Replacement 5.1.
Section 5: The Fuel System 6.5. NOTE: There is an “IN’ fitting and an “OUT” fitting on the pump. They are clearly marked. NOTE: There are two rubber bushings that separate the plenum from the frame. 5.10. To install a fuel pump, reverse the removal procedure. 6.6. NOTE: A small quantity of grease or adhesive can be used to help hold the isolator mounts in position while the fuel pump is fastened to the console support bracket. Plenum and Air Filter 6.7.
Section 5: The Fuel System 6.12. Loosen the hose clamp that holds the hose from the air filter to the carburetor using a 5/16” driver or screwdriver. See Figure 6.12. Carburetor under Air Intake shoulder 7. Choke Cable Removal and Replacement 7.1. Park the Big Country on firm level ground. 7.2. Raise and secure the bed. 7.3. Remove the keys from the key switch. 7.4. Remove the two bolts, flat washers, and rubber washers that hold the hood closed using a 9/16” wrench, and open the hood. 7.5.
Section 5: The Fuel System 7.11. To install the choke cable, cut the fish tape off of the old choke cable, and attach it to the new choke cable in such a way that it will not snag as it is pulled back through the frame. 8. Choke Cable Adjustment 8.1. Loosen the hose clamps on the hose from the air filter to the carburetor, and remove the hose. 8.2. Position the Z-fitting on the end of the cable in the hole in the choke arm, and install the cable housing under the clamp on the choke cable bracket.
Section 5: The Fuel System 8.6. Pull the choke knob out, and verify that the choke arm is pulled tight against the choke arm stop screw. Check that this corresponds with the choke plate closing. See Figure 8.6. Choke Arm Stop Screw 9. Throttle Cable Removal and Replacement 9.1. Park the Big Country on firm level ground. 9.2. Raise and secure the bed. 9.3. Remove the keys from the key switch. 9.4.
Section 5: The Fuel System 9.14. Release the cable tie that holds the throttle cable in a loop. 9.18. Secure the new throttle cable to the old throttle cable in such a way that it will not snag as it is drawn through the channel under the floor of the Big country. 9.15. Working at the front of the Big Country, Remove the torx head shoulder screw that connects the eyelet on the end of the throttle cable to the throttle pedal, using a T30 torx driver and a ½” wrench. See Figure 9.15. 9.19.
Section 5: The Fuel System 9.30. Adjust the clamps as necessary to make the travel of the pedal coincide with the travel of the throttle input arm. NOTE: The cable should pull just tight enough for the throttle input arm stop screw to contact the stop plate at full throttle. There should be tension on the cable, but not “over-throw”. 9.31. If there is insufficient travel in the pedal to attain full travel at the throttle input arm, adjust the pedal stop bolts using two 9/16” wrenches. 9.33.
Section 6: Front Suspension Section 6: Front Suspension 1. Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Front Wheels 1.1. Turn the ignition off, and remove the keys from the key switch. 1.2. Set the parking brake. 1.3. Chock the rear wheels. 1.4. Remove the wheel bearing dust cover. 1.5. Loosen the wheel bolt using a 3/4” socket on breaker bar. 1.6. Safely lift the Big Country. See Figure 1.6. 1.7. Place jack stands under the front of the Big country, and lower the vehicle onto them.
Section 6: Front Suspension 1.8. Remove the front wheel bolt and two flat washers completely. See Figure 1.8. Outer Wheel Bearing Flat Washers 2. Front Suspension and Steering Component Inspection 2.1. Park the Big Country on firm, flat, level ground. Remove the keys from the key switch. 2.2. Check the air pressure in the front tires. It should be in the range of 5-6 psi. Adjust as necessary. 2.3. Check the ride height.
Section 6: Front Suspension 2.7. 2.12. Place a block next to each front tire for sighting purposes, and spin each tire. They should both spin true to within 1/4” measured at the sidewall. The bearings should spin quietly. See Figure 2.12. Pronounced tread wear at the inner edge of either front tire indicates a negative camber condition (leaning in at the top) at that wheel. NOTE: If the Big Country is consistently operated with a heavy load, this may be normal wear for the conditions.
Section 6: Front Suspension 2.17. Inspect the tie rods. 2.14. With a helper holding the steering wheel, attempt to pivot each tire around its steering axis. If more than 1/8” of play is present, identify the source of the play. NOTE: Sources of play in this direction are: worn or loose steering rack, worn wheel bearings, worn or loose tie rod ends, worn joint between the steering knuckle and the axle assembly. • If either one is visibly damaged, the steering rack should be replaced.
Section 6: Front Suspension 3.2. 2.22. Indications: • If a wheel bearing is worn or damaged, refer to the “Wheel Bearing Removal and Replacement section of this manual. • If components of the joint between the axle assembly and the steering knuckle are worn or damaged, refer to the “Steering Knuckle Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.
Section 6: Front Suspension 3.5. 3.6. With the steering rack centered, the steering wheel spokes should be visually centered. If they are not, this must be dealt with when setting the toe angle. NOTE: The height of the vehicle floor roughly corresponds with the height of the front wheel hub. Tie a 10’ length of string to each side of the front bumper or brush guard, at roughly the same height as the center of the front wheel. See Figure 3.6. 3.9.
Section 6: Front Suspension 3.14. Thread the tie rods in or out of the tie rod ends as necessary, using a 12mm wrench, to achieve correct adjustment. See Figure 3.14. NOTE: A condition in which the front measurement is less than the rear measurement would indicate toe-in. Wrench on flats of tie rod NOTE: A condition in which the front measurement is greater than the rear measurement would indicate toe-out. 3.11. Make a table to keep track of adjustments and results. See Figure 3.11. Figure 3.14 3.15.
Section 6: Front Suspension 4. Steering Wheel Removal and Replacement 4.1. Pry the center cover off of the steering wheel. See Figure 4.1. 5.2. Support the steel part of the wheel on a solid surface, providing enough clearance beneath the wheel to allow the bearing to come out. NOTE: Some tires available on the Big Country provide enough cushion to absorb the impact that is meant to drive the bearing out of the wheel. 5.3.
Section 6: Front Suspension 5.6. 6.3. Drive or press the new bearing into the wheel, applying force to the outer race of the bearing. See Figure 5.6. Loosen the jam nut one facet using a pair of 22mm wrenches. See Figure 6.3. Wrench on Jam Nut Wrench on Tie Rod End Figure 6.3 Figure 5.6 5.7. Turn the wheel over. 5.8. Position the spacer and the second bearing in the wheel bore. 5.9. Drive or press the second bearing into the wheel, applying force to the outer race of the bearing. 5.10.
Section 6: Front Suspension 6.7. 6.11. Install the new tie rod end on the tie rod, threading it down to the jam nut. Remove the nut from the tie rod end, and remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. See Figure 6.7. 6.12. Insert the tie rod end through the steering knuckle. 6.13. Tighten the nut to a torque of 80-95 ft-lb using a 19mm wrench.
Section 6: Front Suspension 7.3. Using two 17mm wrenches, remove the nut from the upper bolt that holds the shock and spring unit to the frame. 7.6. Remove the shock and spring unit from the bracket on the frame, taking care to hold the two spacers on dowel. 7.4. Remove the bolt that holds the bottom of the shock and spring unit to the axle assembly. See Figure 7.4. 7.7. To install a new spring and shock unit, reverse the steps used to remove it.
Section 6: Front Suspension 8.5. 8.9. Strike the steering arm where the tie rod end enters the tapered bore, using a heavy hammer. See Figure 8.5. Remove the steering knuckle from the axle assembly. See Figure 8.9. Spacer Tie Rod End Tapered Bore Sleeve Bushing Steering Arm (on Steering Knuckle) Figure 8.9 Figure 8.5 8.10. Remove the spacer from the axle assembly. See Figure 8.10. NOTE: This will distort the tapered bore in the steering knuckle, “spitting” out the tie rod end. 8.6.
Section 6: Front Suspension 8.11. Drive the bushings out of the axle assembly using a hammer and drift. See Figure 8.11. 8.14. To install the steering knuckle, reverse the removal procedure. NOTE: Lubricate the steering knuckle bushings, spacer, and pivot bolt shoulder with lead-free Alvania EPROO grease on installation (P/N: 737-0168A 8fl. oz.). Remove Top Bushing NOTE: Tighten the nut on the steering knuckle bolt to a torque of 80-95 ft-lbs.
Section 6: Front Suspension 9.3. 9.5. Remove the nut and bolt that hold the inner end of the axle assembly to the frame using two 15/16” wrenches. See Figure 9.3. Inspect the bearings that the axle pivots on if the axle is to be reused. See Figure 9.5. Axle Bolt Axle Pivot Bushing Nut Figure 9.5 Figure 9.3 NOTE: The bushings may be pressed-out and replaced using a hydraulic press, or appropriate size arbors and the bolt that holds the axle to the frame. Heat may be necessary.
Section 6: Front Suspension 10. Steering Rack Removal and Replacement 10.5. Pull or drive the upper steering shaft upward to disengage it from the lower steering shaft at the universal joint. See Figure 10.5. 10.1. Remove both front axle assemblies as described in the “Front Axle Assembly Removal and Replacement” section of this manual. See Figure 10.1. Channel for Clamp Bolt Splined Joint Lower Steering Shaft Figure 10.5 10.6.
Section 6: Front Suspension 10.11. On the bench, remove the two nuts, bolts, and washers that hold the steering sector bracket to the steering rack using two 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 10.11. 10.8. Remove the nuts and flat washers from both bolts that hold the steering sector bracket to the frame using two 9/16” wrenches. Nuts and Flat Washers Steering Rack Steering Sector Bracket (Removed) Bolt Holes in Steering Rack Slotted Bolt Holes Steering Sector bracket Figure 10.8 Figure 10.11 10.9.
Section 6: Front Suspension NOTE: If a steering rack is sufficiently worn or damaged to require replacement, it makes sense to replace the tie rod ends as well. 10.21. One at a time, insert the bolts through the steering mounting bracket and the mounting holes in the frame. Place a lock washer over each bolt, and thread a nut on behind it. See Figure 10.21. 10.14. To Install the steering rack in the Big Country, perform the following steps: 10.15.
Section 6: Front Suspension 11. NOTE: In order to achieve proper alignment, it may be necessary to adjust the position of the steering rack on the steering sector bracket. This adjustment is the reason for the slotted mounting holes in the steering sector bracket. Torque Table: Front Suspension Location 10.25. Insert the clamp bolt through the hole in the universal joint 10.26. Install the lock washer and nut on the clamp bolt, and tighten the nut to a torque of 48-58 ft-lbs. using two 9/16” wrenches.
Section 7: Electrical Section 7: Electrical 1. Component Location 1.1. Battery: Under the hood on the right side 1.2. Regulator-Rectifier: Under the hood on the right side, immediately above the battery. See Figure 1.2. 1.6. The fuel pump relay is located in the engine compartment, at the right front corner. 1.7. The starter relay is located in the engine compartment, at the right front corner. See Figure 1.7.
Section 7: Electrical 1.9. 1.11. Two wires along the top frame member on the right side of the engine compartment accommodate future installation of accessory lighting and a beacon atop the light bar. See Figure 1.11. The key switch, hour meter, accessory switches*, warning lights, and front power port*, are located in the dash panel. Warning Lights Key Switch Hour Meter Power for Light Bar Figure 1.9 Figure 1.11 * Where applicable 1.10.
Section 7: Electrical 1.17. The small read wire triggers the solenoid, which is mounted on the starter. See Figure 1.17. 1.13. The oil pressure switch is located on the back of the engine, near the oil filter. See Figure 1.13. Battery Lead to Starter Solenoid Trigger Wire Oil Pressure Switch Alternator Leads Figure 1.13 Figure 1.17 1.14. The fuel level switch is located in the fuel tank. See Figure 1.14. 1.18. The black and red wire entering the fan cover is the stop (grounding) lead for the magneto.
