Professional Shop Handbook 4x4 Utility Vehicle w/Kohler Engine NOTE: These materials are for use by trained technicians who are experienced in the service and repair of outdoor power equipment of the kind described in this publication, and are not intended for use by untrained or inexperienced individuals. These materials are intended to provide supplemental information to assist the trained technician.
Table of Contents Chapter 1: Introduction.....................................................................................................1 Chapter 2 - Drive Sytem: CVT and Transfer Case............................................................9 Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum..............................................................................63 Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum........................................................................
Chapter 1: Introduction CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION 1. Poly bed 4X2 INTRODUCTION: PRODUCT LINE For 2005, a lighter-duty version of the 4X2 was introduced, using a plastic cargo box and a 9.5 H.P. drives system sourced from Kawasaki. See Figure 1.3. 6X4 Cub Cadet entered the utility vehicle market in the 2003 season with a 6X4 vehicle having fully independent suspension and Honda power (20 H.P.). The Big Country 6X4 continues in production with evolutionary changes and a switch to Kohler power.
Chapter 1: Introduction 2. 3. UNDERSTANDING UTILITY VEHICLE MODEL NUMBERS PROFESSIONAL SHOP MANUAL INTENT This Manual is intended to provide service dealers with an introduction to the mechanical aspects of the new vehicle. e.g.: 37AJ467D710 • 37 - - - - - - - - - indicates that this is a U.V.
Chapter 1: Introduction 4. Fasteners: • CAUTION: Use common sense and safety when lifting and supporting any equipment: Most of the fasteners used on the vehicle are sized in fractional inches. Some are metric. For this reason, wrench sizes are frequently identified in the text, and measurements are given in U.S. and metric scales. • If a fastener has a locking feature that has worn, replace the fastener or apply a small amount of releasable thread locking compound such as Loctite® 242 (blue).
Chapter 1: Introduction Jack stands will safely support the front of the vehicle if positioned beneath the frame, where the front out-rigger extends to meet the base of the OPS. See Figure 1.8. Jack stands can safely be positioned beneath the upright frame members that are roughly even with the centerline of the tray that supports the engine and transfer case. See Figure 1.6. Figure 1.6 Figure 1.
Chapter 1: Introduction 5. DRIVE SYSTEM DESCRIPTION • A belt-type CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) system carries power from the engine crankshaft to the transfer case. See Figure 1.10. • The transfer case is mounted adjacent to the engine, with the input shaft running fore-and-aft in the frame. See Figure 1.11. CVT driven element Transfer case CVT belt Figure 1.11 CVT driving element Figure 1.10 • The transfer case contains two forward ratios, neutral, and reveres.
Chapter 1: Introduction 6. The front differential has an aluminum housing, and an electronically controlled, slip sensing Auto-Lok® feature. See Figure 1.13. Front differential The transfer case is manufactured by Cub Cadet. If it fails during the first year, it should be removed and replaced as a complete unit. Electrical connection for Auto-Lok® feature • In the event of a failure, the transfer case will be called back for engineering analysis.
Chapter 1: Introduction 7. 7.3. SPECIAL TOOLS NOTE: There are many specialized tools that will make servicing the Cub Cadet 4X4 easier. There are only a couple of tools that are not likely to be in a technician’s normal tool assortment that necessary to service the 4X4. 7.1. A small metric screw (6m/1.0) (size/thread pitch) having a minimum thread length of 1.15” (2.9cm) can be used to spread the sheaves of the driven clutch. This is necessary if the belt is to be replaced without removing both pulleys.
Chapter 1: Introduction 8
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case CHAPTER 2- DRIVE SYSTEM: CVT AND TRANSFER CASE DRIVE SYSTEM: SERVICE INTENT CVT AND TRANSFER CASE OPERATION 1. The transfer case is manufactured by Cub Cadet. If it fails during the first two years, it should be removed and replaced as a complete unit. 1. The transfer case contains a relatively conventional three-shaft gear-set providing Neutral, Reverse, Forward, and Forward Low-range. 2.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 4c. 5. 5b. At about 1,400 RPM, the sheaves move closer to each-other. As they do, they touch the sides of the belt and begin to transmit power. See Figure 2.3. The driving elements are tuned to get the best vehicle performance out of each model engine, taking into account: engine power band and top speed, vehicle weight, maximized vehicle pulling power, maximized vehicle acceleration, and a 25 MPH (40 KPH) maximum speed.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case • The further the drive point (contact patch between the belt and the sheaves) is from the crankshaft, the greater the effective circumference of the driving pulley (element). • The greater the effective circumference of the driving pulley, the more linear motion is transferred to the belt for each crankshaft revolution. • This increases the drive speed, but reduces the amount of torque the engine transfers to the drive system.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case • Slower idle speeds will result in poor idle quality, reduced flow of cooling air, and reduced oil flow. DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE ACCESS, SAFETY, AND TIPS • Higher idle speeds will result in harsh gear selector action and possible internal damage to the transfer case. 1. When working on the belt, block the wheels to prevent the UV from rolling. 2. Place the transmission in neutral. 2.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENTS: 1. CVT spacing and alignment: • Spacing and alignment are critical to proper CVT performance and belt longevity. • In normal service, these items should not be an issue on this vehicle. The engine and transfer case are firmly tied to each-other by the engine / transmission plate that holds proper spacing and alignment. 2.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 1d. Thread the screw into the tapped hole in the outer half of the driven element sheave. The end of the screw will press against the inner half of the sheave, spreading the two apart. See Figure 2.12. NOTE: On the Caterpillar engines, The belt may be harder to roll off the sheave, but it will roll off. 1f. The belt can easily be installed by reversing the removal process. See Figure 2.14. Screw maintains distance between sheaves Figure 2.12 Figure 2.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 2b. Remove the three screws holding the cover in place, then remove the cover. See Figure 2.15. 3. Install the clutch removal tool (M14 - 2.O) by threading it into the clutch, pressing against the crankshaft. 3a. Driving element cover Hold the pulley with a 30mm wrench, and turn the tool using a 22mm wrench. This will force the driving element off of the crankshaft. See Figure 2.17.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 6. 4b. Place the transfer case in H position, and set the parking brake. 4c. Make the wood block spacer as described in the accompanying illustration. See Figure 2.19. Loosen the bolt that holds the driven element to the input shaft using a 9/16” wrench. 3-1/2” (8.9CM) NOTE: Hold the driven element from rotating using a pin spanner, if needed. 4d. Remove the bolt and washers. See Figure 2.18. 5-1/8” (13.1CM) 4-3/8” (8.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 6b. Install the belt around the pulleys and insert the wood block tool between the pulleys to establish correct spacing. See Figure 2.21. 6f. Secure the driven element to the input shaft using the bolt, washer, and shoulder spacer previously removed. Do not tighten fully at this time. See Figure 2.23. Wooden tool sets spacing and holds assembly together for installation CVT installed all at once Figure 2.21 Figure 2.23 6c.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 6i. DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENTS: TRANSFER CASE SHIFT LINKAGE Remove the wood block tool. See Figure 2.24. 1. Before attempting any linkage repair of adjustment, confirm whether the problem at hand is in the linkage or elsewhere in the system. 2. A handy quick-check to confirm that the transfer case is in neutral when the gear selector is in neutral can be made using the two safety switches in the starter circuit: See Figure 2.25.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 7. Centering the linkage: See Figure 2.27. NOTE: Methodology: start at the source (the transfer case), and work toward the control input (the gear selector). 5. Operate the gear selector through its full range of motion (high range forward, low range forward, neutral, and reverse). Look for the following issues: See Figure 2.26. Forward-NeutralReverse rod Low-range rod Neutral alignment holes Figure 2.27 7a.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 8. Rod adjustment is made by lengthening or shortening the shift rods to make neutral at the Hurst gear selector lever correspond with neutral within the transfer case. See Figure 2.28. Disconnecting linkage to make low-range adjustment 10. After the rod adjustment is done, operate the linkage to confirm that the shift forks move fully to their engaged detent positions.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 10d. Unbolt the console cover / cup holder using a 9/16” wrench to remove the two screws that hold the back of the console cover. A 9/16” wrench can also be used to loosen the two screws that secure the front edge of the cover through slotted holes. 14. 14a. Snug the jam nut. 14b. Move the lever into reverse 14c. Repeat the adjustment in the opposite direction on the reverse stop bolt. 10e. Lift the cover off to remove it. 11.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 5. DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT: PARKING BRAKE NOTE: The parking brake is mounted to the transfer case, and its operation is completely independent of the hydraulic service brakes. 1. Checking caliper adjustment: See Figure 2.31. Parking brake caliper Feeler gauge .010-.013 (.254-.330mm) The parking brake has two functions: 1a. It should prevent the vehicle from rolling when it is applied. 1b. It should not drag when released. 2.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 6. The caliper can be adjusted using the screw and jam nut on the caliper. Us a 7/16” wrench and an 11/16” wrench. See Figure 2.32. • There is a park brake switch mounted beneath the lever. The contacts within the switch are normally closed. As the lever is pulled-up, the plunger extends from the switch, closing the contacts. • Contact closure = 2 notches. 7.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 10. 11.1. Adjustment can be made using a pair of 1/2” wrenches at the anchor point of either end of the cable. See Figure 2.37. By the fourth notch, it should be impossible to rotate the drive shaft. See Figure 2.35. Adjustment at caliper end of cable Correct adjustment = fourth “click” on handle + tight cable + brake fully engaged Figure 2.35 Figure 2.37 11.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE: LUBRICATION 1. 3. The universal joints in the drive shafts that connect the transfer case to the front and rear differentials are lubricated on assembly, and should not need further lubrication in their normal service life. See Figure 2.38. The transfer case contains 64 fl.oz. (1.9 l.) of 80W-90 Low Foam Oil (Cub Cadet P/N: 73704040). See Figure 2.40. Vent Fill plug Figure 2.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 5. 6a. The fill plug can be removed with a 5/8” open-end wrench. 13.4. Transfer case, continued... 5a. Park the vehicle on a firm level surface. 5b. Allow the engine and drive system to cool to ambient temperature. 5c. Tilt the cargo box up. 5d. Release the CamlocR fasteners and lift away the engine cover. 5e. Clean the area surrounding the fill plug and level plug. 6. 5f.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE: TRANSFER CASE REMOVAL WITH KOHLER ENGINE 4. Disconnect the black cable from the negative terminal on the battery using a 10mm wrench. 1. 5. Remove the CVT belt and pulleys as described in the DRIVE SYSTEM: CVT BELT AND PULLEYS section of this manual. See Figure 2.45. Remove the cargo box from the vehicle: See Figure 2.44. Attachment clip Lift assist cylinder Cargo box hinge bolt (1 per side) CVT removed Figure 2.44 Figure 2.45 1a.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 9. Confirm that the transfer case is in neutral. 14. Confirm that the parking brake is released. 10. Disconnect the heavy Forward-Neutral-Reverse shift rod from the shift arm mounted to the transfer case. use a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 2.47. 15. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake caliper by removing the hairpin clip and clevis pin. See Figure 2.49. ForwardNeutralReverse rod Parking brake cable Clevis pin Figure 2.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 17. Lift and safely support the utility vehicle, as described in the LIFTING AND SUPPORTING section of this manual. 18. Drain the transfer case lube into an appropriate container, as described in the DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE: LUBRICATION section of this manual. 19. Disconnect the front drive shaft, as described in the DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE: DRIVE SHAFT TO FRONT DIFFERENTIAL section of this manual. See Figure 2.51. 21.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 23. Disconnect the transfer case wiring harness from the two neutral safety switches, and remove it. This will prevent the harness and switches from being damaged when the transfer case is removed. 24. Carefully lift the transfer case and brackets out of the vehicle. 25. If the transfer case is to be disassembled, it is best to simply leave the brackets attached to the housing, so that their position is not disturbed. 26. 27a.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE: TRANSFER CASE REMOVAL WITH CATERPILLAR ENGINE 28c. Install the CVT as described in the DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE:CVT BELT AND PULLEYS section of this manual. 29. 1. Make the remaining electrical and mechanical connections: Remove the cargo box from the vehicle: See Figure 2.56. Attachment clip 29a. Connect the transfer case safety switch harness to the main harness, confirming that it is properly routed.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 4. Disconnect the black cable from the negative terminal on the battery using a 10mm wrench. 5. Remove the CVT belt and pulleys as described in the DRIVE SYSTEM: CVT BELT AND PULLEYS section of this manual. See Figure 2.57. 10. Disconnect the heavy Forward-Neutral-Reverse shift rod from the shift arm mounted to the transfer case. use a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 2.58. Forward-Neutral-Reverse shift rod CVT removed Figure 2.58 Figure 2.57 6.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 14. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake caliper by removing the hairpin clip and clevis pin. See Figure 2.60. 16. Lift and safely support the utility vehicle, as described in the LIFTING AND SUPPORTING section of this manual. 17. Drain the transfer case lube into an appropriate container, as described in the DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE: LUBRICATION section of this manual. 18.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 20. 23. Attach a lifting apparatus to the transfer case, being careful not to fowl the linkages. See Figure 2.64. If the transfer case is to be replaced, matchmark the position of each mounting bracket so that it can be installed in an identical position on the new transfer case. See Figure 2.66. Mounting bracket Transfer case Figure 2.64 Figure 2.66 21.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 24e. Move the transfer case into it’s mounting position in the drive system tray. 24f. 26. Secure the transfer case with the four sets of 5/16” -18 nuts and bolts, but do not fully tighten the fasteners. 26a. Connect the transfer case safety switch harness to the main harness, confirming that it is properly routed. 24g.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 1e. DRIVE SYSTEM BENCH SERVICE: TRANSFER CASE DISASSEMBLY 1. Preliminary steps: 1a. Clean-up and visually examine the transfer case for wear and damage that may make it unfeasible to repair. 1b. Unless there is a specific reason to remove the mounting brackets, they are best left in place. 1c. If the gear lube was not previously drained, remove the drain plug using a 13mm wrench and allow the fluid to drain into a clean pan. See Figure 2.68.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 2. If the parking brake is being removed for transfer to a replacement transfer case: 2a. 3. Remove the screws that hold the caliper bracket to the transfer case housing using a T-45 driver. See Figure 2.72. If the parking brake is being removed for brake replacement or other service: NOTE: The inner brake pad is epoxied into the caliper. Because the inner pad cannot be replaced, the caliper is offered only as a complete assembly.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 3c. Remove the outer caliper housing. See Figure 2.76. 3e. Slide the inner caliper housing off of the two bolts that locate it. See Figure 2.78. Outer caliper housing Inner caliper housing Figure 2.76 3d. Figure 2.78 Slip the rotor off of the brake shaft. It will clear the shift arm assembly. See Figure 2.77. 3f. Installation is essentially the reversal of the removal process. 4.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case • The adjustment screw acts by moving the contact point that the cam arm pivots against. See Figure 2.80. 5b. NOTE: Long arm = Low range Adjustment screw Cam arm Loosen but do not remove the nut and bolt that the Low-range shift arm pivots on using a pair of 7/16” wrenches. 5c. “Bullet” Remove the nut and bolt that the ForwardNeutral-Reverse shift arm pivots on using a pair of 7/16” wrenches, and remove the arm from the bracket. See Figure 2.82.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 5d. 6b. Check the plastic split-busings for wear. They are inexpensive, and replacing them if there is any significant wear will improve shift action. See Figure 2.84. Remove the detent plate using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 2.86. Detent plate Bolt Nut Detent springs Plastic split bushing plastic split bushing spacer tube Figure 2.86 Figure 2.84 6. Remove the safety switches and detents: 6a.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 7c. Remove the four screws that hold the adaptor housing to the transfer case using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 2.88. 7f. Remove the screws that hold the case halves together using a 1/2” wrench. 7g. Gently separate the case halves using the three pry points, and a soft hammer if necessary. Do not pry against the mating surfaces to separate the case halves. See Figure 2.90. Adaptor housing Lift left case half Tension pin Right case half (down) Figure 2.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 8a. 9. Lift the input shaft assembly straight out of the case. See Figure 2.92. Input shaft assembly Middle shaft and output shaft: NOTE: The middle shaft gears all have features that dictate their orientation during assembly. Output shaft 9a. Middle shaft Remove and discard the square-section hog-ring from the end of the middle shaft. See Figure 2.94. Square-section hog ring Figure 2.92 8b. The input shaft assembly consists of: See Figure 2.93. .
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 9c. Lift the low gear shift shaft assembly (shift shaft and fork) out of the right side housing. See Figure 2.96. 9e. Lift the output shaft out of the housing. See Figure 2.98. Output shaft Low gear shift collar Right side case half Low gear shift shaft Alignment dowel Figure 2.98 Figure 2.96 9f. 9d. Lift the spacer and 69-tooth bull gear off of the output shaft. See Figure 2.97. Lift the middle shaft assembly out of the housing. See Figure 2.99.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 9h. 9k. The middle shaft is easily disassembled using a pair of external snap ring pliers. See Figure 2.100. Lift-out the reverse gear and washer. See Figure 2.102. Reverse gear washer Figure 2.102 Figure 2.100 9l. 9i. Lift the forward-neutral-reverse shift shaft, shift yoke, spacer, and shift collar out of the bore that is closer to the output shaft bearing. See Figure 2.101. 9m.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 10. Remove and discard the seals from both halves of the transfer case housing. See Figure 2.104. 11b. The left side case half contains three bearings: See Figure 2.106. Left side case half Shift shaft seals (use hook tool with caution) Bearing seal bores Middle shaft bearing Figure 2.106 Figure 2.104 11. NOTE: Use caution not to damage the seal bores when removing the seals.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 2. DRIVE SYSTEM BENCH SERVICE: TRANSFER CASE INSPECTION 1. Check the middle shaft gears: Figure 2.108. See Clean and inspect the case and all internal parts. NOTE: Most of the inspection process is visual or tactile. A limited amount of measurement is necessary, mostly to confirm whether a part that is usually worn is still serviceable. 1a. Clean all sealant from the mating surfaces and clean all lubricant and dirt from the internal and external surfaces.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 3. Check the forward / reverse shift yoke (fork) and shift collar groove for wear: 3c. Inspect the shift shaft for wear on the mating and seal surfaces. 3a. 3d. Check that the snap rings are seated in their grooves. If removed, replace the snap rings with new ones. Check the thickness of the shift yoke pad that contacts the shift collar using a micrometer (preferably) or calipers. See Figure 2.110.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 4b. 5. Check the forward / neutral / reverse shift collar groove for wear: Use a .035” (.889mm) feeler-gauge as a go / no-go tool. If the feeler gauge can be inserted to the base of the groove in the shift collar, and the shift yoke is good, replace the shift collar. See Figure 2.113. The forward, reverse, and low range gears spin on the middle shaft. Check the bearing contact surfaces on the middle shaft for wear. See Figure 2.114.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 5a. The bearing surface that the low gear rides-on (opposite end from the brake rotor spline, measured inboard from the snap-ring groove) should be a minimum of .617” (15.672mm) diameter. See Figure 2.115. 5c. The bearing surface that the reverse gear rides on (second largest cross-section of shaft, adjacent to large set of dog teeth) should be a minimum of .970” (24.638mm). See Figure 2.117.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 7. 8a. Visually check: *The end spline (CVT mounting) *The reverse pinion (machined onto shaft) *The spline that engages the Low pinion. *The spline that engages the high pinion. *The surfaces that ride in the ball bearings and seals for galling, fretting, and scratches. Inspect output shaft: See Figure 2.119. Bull gear Bull gear/shaft splines Bearing contact area End spline 8b. 8c. Spacer 7a.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 2. DRIVE SYSTEM BENCH SERVICE: TRANSFER CASE ASSEMBLY 1. Install the reverse idler gear: 2a. Apply a small amount of thread locking compound such as Loctite 262 (red) to the threads of the 1/2”-13 bolt that holds the reverse idler in place. 2b. Apply a small amount of grease such as Cub Cadet multi-purpose grease (P/N 737-3034) to the bearing inside the gear. 2c. Assemble the bolt, flat washers, spacer and gear.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 3. 3g. Assemble the three main shafts: 3a. Position the input shaft /reverse gear in the right side case half, meshing with the reverse idler. 3b. Apply a small amount of grease such as Cub Cadet multi-purpose grease (P/N 737-3034) to the bearing inside the reverse gear and position the gear on the middle shaft so that the dog teeth on the gear are next to the dog teeth on the shaft. See Figure 2.123.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 3i. Install the 22-tooth forward (high) gear and spacer onto the input shaft. See Figure 2.126. 3l. Install the spacer on the output shaft. See Figure 2.128. Input shaft Spacer 22-tooth forward gear Figure 2.128 Figure 2.126 3j. 3m. Install the final pinion on the middle shaft. The shoulder on the gear should face the forward (high range) gear. The flat side faces up. 3n. Install the snap ring that secures the final pinion. Use a new snap ring.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 3r. Insert the D-shaped end of the shift shaft into the small bore that is closer to the input shaft. The low range shift collar would slip over the teeth on the middle shaft. See Figure 2.130. 3v. Install the small, .030” (.762mm) flat washer on the middle shaft, against the low pinion. 3w. Slip a new middle shaft retaining ring over the small diameter portion of a 3/8” drive 3/8” socket. Push the ring down the socket, onto the large diameter portion.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 3y. Install the low pinion on the input shaft, followed by the .060” (1.52mm) flat washer. See Figure 2.134. 4. Checking and final assembly: 4a. Affix a dial indicator to the input shaft, so that it reads against the case. See Figure 2.136. Input shaft Checking input shaft end-play Flat washer Low pinion Figure 2.134 3z. Figure 2.136 Install the alignment dowels in the untapped holes of the mating surface of the right side case half. See Figure 2.135.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 4d. • 4g. Work the axle up and down to get and endplay measurement on the dial indicator. end play should be between .005”-.015” (.127mm-.381mm). If axle end-play exceeds .015”, add .010” (.254mm) shim P/N: 936-3104 to correct. Install the shim between the spacer and the bull gear. 4e. Position the low range shift shaft (the one closer to the input shaft) so that it extends 2” (5.1cm) from the surface to the case. See Figure 2.140.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 4l. 4j. Test-spin the input shaft: Neutral • Insert the detent balls, followed by the detent springs into the detent bores. See Figure 2.142. With both shift shafts in neutral, the output shaft should not spin with any significant force when the input shaft is turned. It may spin lightly from internal friction. Detent ball Low Gear • Push the low gear shift shaft in until the end of the shaft extends 1-3/8” (3.5cm) from the case.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 4s. Fasten the lug nut to the input shaft using a 5/16”-18 bolt. The tapered side of the lug nut should face away from the input shaft. NOTE: Seal installation tips: • The sealing surface on the shaft should be inspected before assembly. Small scratches on the sealing surface can be polished-out. • Protect the lip of the seal using a seal protector sleeve, obsolete microfiche, plastic, or cellophane tape.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 4x. Install the adaptor housing, using the tension pin to confirm proper indexing. See Figure 2.147. 4ac. Install the magnetic drain plug in the bottom of the transfer case. Tighten the plug to a torque of 220-280 in-lb. (25-32 N-m). Adaptor housing NOTE: If the sealing gasket needs replacement, it can be ordered as part number 721-04174. This part is not listed in the IPL. Roll-pin 4ad. If removed, install the vent. Tighten it 2-3 turns.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 5c. 6. Install the low-gear shift arm. See Figure 2.150. Install the parking brake: 6a. Apply a small amount of thread locking compound such as Loctite® 262 (red) to the screws that hold the caliper bracket to the case. 6b. Apply a small amount of ant-seize compound to the brake shaft. 6c. Position the brake caliper and brake rotor as one assembly, and secure them to the case. See Figure 2.152.
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case Item ft-lbs N-m Reverse idler bolt1 32-40 43-54 Neutral safety switches2 32-36 43-49 Detent plate screw 16-21 23 Case screws 16-21 23 Adaptor housing screws3 16-21 23 Drain and level plugs 18-23 25-32 Fill plug and vent snug snug Shift arm bracket3 16-21 23 Shift arm pivot bolt 9 13 Shift arm / shift pin shoulder screws3 9 13 Brake caliper bracket screws1 16-21 23 Brake caliper bolts1 16-21 23 1 Apply a small amount of pe
Chapter 2- Drive System: CVT and Transfer Case 62
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum KOHLER ENCLOSED CVT ADDENDUM DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE: SAFETY AND TIPS 1. 6. When working on the vehicle, set the parking brake or block the wheels to keep it from rolling. 2. Place the transmission in neutral. 3.
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum 2. CONVERSION INSTRUCTIONS: ENCLOSED CVT 1. ACCESS PREPARATION 2a. Lift the load box (bed). 1a. Review and understand these instructions before starting to work on the vehicle. 2b. Slide the driver’s seat all the way back on its tracks. 1b. Collect all necessary tools. 2c. 1c. Lay-out the contents of the CVT enclosure kit. Make sure all the parts are present and identified. See Figure 2a.1. Tilt the seats forward.
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum 2h. Remove the original seat plate from the grab handle, and replace it with the seat plate from the kit. See Figure 2a.3. 2j. Remove the three screws that hold the right rear fender to the splash shield using a 5/16” wrench. See Figure 2a.5. Grab bar Fender to splash shield screws Flange brgs. Old seat plate New seat plate Figure 2a.5 Figure 2a.
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum 3. 2l. Remove the fender: See Figure 2a.7. BELT REMOVAL 3a. To remove the belt, a 6mm/1.0 screw with a minimum thread length of 1.15" (2.9cm) will be required. See Figure 2a.9. 1.15” (2.9cm) thread length Figure 2a.7 • • Pull the fender out slightly at the top to provide freedom of movement around the fuel filler neck. Figure 2a.9 Lift the fender up at the back to pull the front edge clear of the channel that it locks into. • Pull the fender clear of the vehicle.
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum 3c. Lubricate the screw with a small amount of grease or motor oil, then thread the screw into the tapped hole in the outer sheave of the driven element. The end of the screw will press against the inner half of the sheave, spreading the two apart. See Figure 2a.11. 4. REMOVE THE CVT PULLEYS 4a. Remove the three screws holding the cover in place using a T-20 driver, then remove the cover. See Figure 2a.13.
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum 4i. 4c. Withdraw the bolt, washers, and shoulder spacer. 4d. Install the clutch removal tool by threading it into the clutch (driving pulley), pressing against the crankshaft. 4e. Hold the pulley with a 30mm wrench, and turn the tool using a 22mm wrench. This will force the driving pulley (clutch) off of the crankshaft. See Figure 2a.15. Slide the driven pulley off of the splined transfer case input shaft. See Figure 2a.16.
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum 5c. Loosen all the screws that hold the back plate to the transfer case using a 1/2” wrench. Remove all but one. See Figure 2a.18. 5h. Attach the heat shield to the new back plate using the 1/4-20 screws and spacers. Tighten them using a 5/16” wrench. See Figure 2a.20. Heat shield Original back plate Inset: mounting detail Spacer Screw Screws mounting back plate to engine New back plate Screws mounting back plate to transfer case Figure 2a.18 5d.
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum • Tighten the 5/16-18 screws to a torque of 18-22 ft-lbs. (24-30 N-m). • Tighten the 3/8-16 screws to a torque of 22-25 ftlbs. (30-34 N-m). 5k. 6. 6a. Once the back plate is secured to the engine and transfer case, check to see that: The heat shield does not fowl the engine governor. See Figure 2a.22. Prepare the CVT for installation: • Clean the shafts and the surrounding area before installing the CVT. • Confirm the presence of the .060” (1.
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum 6d. Check the alignment of the two pulleys: Place the alignment tool over the hub of the driven pulley so that it lays flat against the front surface of it. The furthest corner of the thick end of the tool should meet-up with the inner lip of the fixed sheave on the driving pulley See Figure 2a.25. 6g. Install the cooling fan on the driving pulley, securing it with the flat washer and castle nut. See Figure 2a.26.
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum 6k. Remove the screw that was used to spread the sheaves of the driven pulley. 6l. Place the gear selector in neutral. 6m. Re-connect the spark plug leads to the spark plugs. 6n. Re-connect the negative battery cable. 6o. Confirm that the drive belt area is clear, and that no unsafe conditions will arise from starting the engine. 6p. Start the engine briefly and confirm that the CVT operates properly throughout the engine RPM range, before installing the CVT cover.
Kohler Enclosed CVT Addendum 7i. Center-punch and drill the two mounting holes in the seat box using a 9/32” (7mm) drill bit. 7j. Mount the bracket beneath the front lip of the seat box. Tighten the two 1/4-14 screws using a T-27 driver. See Figure 2a.31. Opening in bottom of seat plate Tube bracket Figure 2a.31 7k. Install the intake tube between the bracket and the spigot on the front of the CVT cover. Secure it with the hose clamp. See Figure 2a.32. Intake tube installed Figure 2a.32 7l.
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Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum CATERPILLAR ENCLOSED CVT ADDENDUM DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE: SAFETY AND TIPS 1. 6. When working on the vehicle, set the parking brake or block the wheels to keep it from rolling. 2. Place the transmission in neutral. 3. When working on any parts (like the CVT) that rotate with the engine, disable the engine: 3a. Disconnect the fuel solenoid. 3b. Remove the key from the key switch. 3c. Disconnect the ground cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 2. CONVERSION INSTRUCTIONS: ENCLOSED CVT 1. ACCESS PREPARATION 2a. Lift the load box (bed). 1a. Review and understand these instructions before starting to work on the vehicle. 2b. Slide the driver’s seat all the way back on its tracks. 1b. Collect all necessary tools. 2c. 1c. Lay-out the contents of the CVT enclosure kit. Make sure all the parts are present and identified. See Figure 2b.1. Tilt the seats forward.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 3. Unbolt the fuel filter bracket from the vehicle using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 2b.3. 3b. Remove the original seat plate from the grab handle, and replace it with the seat plate from the kit. See Figure 2b.5. Grab bar Flange bearings Old seat plate Fuel filter bracket New seat plate Figure 2b.3 Figure 2b.5 3a. With the fuel filter and bracket out of the way, the grab bar and seat plate can be removed using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 2b.4.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 3d. 4. Unbolt the electric fuel pump from the console-cup holder support using a pair of 7/ 16” wrenches. See Figure 2b.7. BELT REMOVAL 4a. To remove the belt, a 6mm/1.0 screw with a minimum thread length of 1.15" (2.9cm) will be required. See Figure 2b.9. Fuel pump 1.15” (2.9cm) thread length Ground wire Figure 2b.7 3e. Figure 2b.9 Unbolt the air filter bracket from the console-cup holder support using a pair of 1/ 2” wrenches. See Figure 2b.8.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 4c. Lubricate the screw with a small amount of grease or motor oil, then thread the screw into the tapped hole in the outer sheave of the driven element. The end of the screw will press against the inner half of the sheave, spreading the two apart. See Figure 2b.11. 5. REMOVE THE CVT PULLEYS 5a. Remove the three screws holding the cover in place using a T-20 driver, then remove the cover. See Figure 2b.13. Driven pulley Install screw to spread sheaves Figure 2b.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 5i. 5c. Withdraw the bolt, washers, and shoulder spacer. 5d. Install the clutch removal tool by threading it into the clutch (driving pulley), pressing against the crankshaft. 5e. Hold the pulley with a 30mm wrench, and turn the tool using a 22mm wrench. This will force the driving pulley (clutch) off of the crankshaft. See Figure 2b.15. Slide the driven pulley off of the splined transfer case input shaft. See Figure 2b.16.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 6c. Loosen the four screws that hold the back plate to the transfer case adaptor using a 1/2” wrench. Remove all but one. See Figure 2b.18. 6g. Position the new aluminum back plate, connecting the engine to the transfer case. See Figure 2b.20. New back plate Screws holding back plate to transfer case adaptor Figure 2b.20 Figure 2b.18 6d. Remove the final two screws and carefully lift the back plate out of the vehicle. 6e.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 6j. 6l. Re-mount the starter motor. See Figure 2b.24. Seat the opening at the transfer case end of the back plate over the boss that surrounds the input shaft. See Figure 2b.22. Starter motor Mounting boss Screws Back plate Transfer case Figure 2b.24 Figure 2b.22 • • If the opening in the back plate sill not align with the boss on the transfer case, DO NOT attempt to draw the two together by tightening the screws.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum • Confirm the presence of four .030” (.75mm) spacers on the shaft between the driven element and the transfer case housing. See Figure 2b.25. 7b. Fasten the driving pulley to the crankshaft using the, washer and shoulder spacer previously removed on the double-ended stud. Tighten it to a torque of 35-36 ftlbs.(43-49 N-m). See Figure 2b.26. Spacers Figure 2b.25 Figure 2b.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 7e. Adjust the number of shims (spacers) behind the driven pulley to achieve correct alignment. Use the three .800” (2 cm) I.D. flat washers that are included in the kit, if necessary. 7f. Once alignment is correct, install the driven pulley screw with thread locking compound such as Loctite® 262 (red), and tighten it to 32-36 ft-lb. (43-49 N-m). 7g. Install the cooling fan on the driving pulley, securing it with the flat washer and castle nut. See Figure 2b.28. 7j.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 8. FINAL ASSEMBLY 8a. 8d. Install the drain plug in the CVT cover, and carefully tighten it until snug, using a 9/16” wrench. See Figure 2b.30. Fasten the CVT cover to the back plate using the (12) 1/4-20 self tapping screws. Tighten the screws using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 2b.32. Drain plug Figure 2b.32 Figure 2b.30 8b. 8e. Slip the CVT cover in through the opening in the passenger side of the seat box. See Figure 2b.31.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 8f. 8h. Position the air filter and intake tube in the vehicle. See Figure 2b.34. Air filter intake tube Reinstall the grab handle with the new seat plate. See Figure 2b.36. Flange bushings Spacers (secured with tape to ease mounting) Figure 2b.34 • Remove the seals from the tube and the engine air intake. • Connect the tube to the engine intake manifold. 8g. Figure 2b.
Caterpillar Enclosed CVT Addendum 8n. Install the intake tube between the bracket and the spigot on the front of the CVT cover. Secure it with the hose clamp. See Figure 2b.38. Intake tube Figure 2b.38 8o. Install the passenger seat and its new bracket to the new seat plate using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 2b.39. Figure 2b.39 8p. Reinstall the engine cover and parcel bin. 8q. Lower the work-box and seats. 8r.
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Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials CHAPTER 3 - DRIVE SYSTEM: DRIVE SHAFTS AND DIFFERENTIALS 4. DRIVE SYSTEM DESCRIPTION 1. Chapter 2 of this manual covers the drive system from the engine crankshaft to the output shafts of the transfer case. Chapter 3 covers the drive system down-stream of the transfer case.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 5b. 5.3. A cam/roller type over-running clutch within the differential provides a limited slip feature between the two front wheels. Each differential transfers power to the drive hubs through a drive shaft with Rzeppa-type constant velocity joints at each end. See Figure 3.4. • In the event of a failure, the component will be called back for engineering analysis and vendor recovery.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 4. Manually rotate one rear wheel, with the differential lock disengaged: • If the vehicle is in neutral, the drive shaft leading from the transfer case to the differential will turn. • If the transfer case is in gear, the other rear wheel should rotate in the opposite direction. 5.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 10. The control lever operates in a cam-over fashion, with an extension spring and pivot link between the control lever and the cable. 11. Remove the console cover / cup holder to gain access to the control lever connection. See Figure 3.8. 12. When the differential lock is released, the pivot link is held horizontal by spring tension. See Figure 3.9.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials LUBRICATION 1. The universal joints in the driveshafts that connect the transfer case to the front and rear differentials are lubricated on assembly, and should not need further lubrication in their normal service life. See Figure 3.10. 3. The rear differential contains roughly 32 fl.oz. (950 ml.) of 80W-90 Low Foam Oil (Cub Cadet P/N: 737-04040). • The rear differential gear lube should be changed after the first 50hrs.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 4f. 6d. If the fluid level is low, gear lube may be added through the level plug, or through the vent at the top of the differential housing. Use a 1/2” wrench to remove the vent. See Figure 3.13. Clean the area surrounding the fill plug and level plug. See Figure 3.14. Front of vehicle Front differential level plug Rear differential vent may be used as a fill point Figure 3.14 6e.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials REMOVAL OF FRONT DRIVE SHAFT 4. NOTE: If the universal joints exhibit enough play to indicate that they are worn, or if the front driveshaft is identified as the source of a driveline vibration, replace the driveshaft as an assembly. Remove the six nuts and bolts that hold the brush guard to the front of the frame, and remove the brush guard. See Figure 3.17. NOTE: Both driveshafts are constantly engaged.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 5c. 6c. Carefully slide the cooling matrix straight forward. Do not allow the radiator core to come into contact with anything that might damage it. See Figure 3.19. 7. Lift the rear of the cover, and draw it back to disengage the locating tabs at the front edge. Remove the driveshaft cover.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 8. Loosen the front differential. 8a. Remove the four bolts that hold the bottom of the front differential to the frame using a 9/16” wrench. See Figure 3.22. 9. Release the Camloc® fasteners that secure the tool bin under the driver’s seat, and remove the tool bin. 10. Remove the guard between the driven element of the CVT and the universal joint on the front driveshaft using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 3.24.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 11b. After it is free of the pinion shaft on the front differential, move the front end of the driveshaft to the right of the vehicle and pull it off of the splined output shaft on the transfer case. 11c. Carefully lift the front differential a few inches above the frame and support it using a short length of 2x4 dimensional lumber or a similar object: See Figure 3.26. 11d.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 12. Assembly notes: FRONT HALF SHAFT REMOVAL • Inspect the splines and shaft seals before installing the front drive shaft. Make any necessary repairs before reassembly. Failure mode, cause, and remedy: • Lubricate the splined joints with anti-seize compound on assembly. • Reverse the removal procedure to install the front drive shaft. • Replace any worn hardware or components before reassembly.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 2. 3. Remove the axle nut 2a. Disconnect the upper ball joint and tie rod end 3a. Remove and discard the cotter pin that locks the axle nut. See Figure 3.29. Loosen the nut that holds the upper ball joint to the front hub as far as possible using a 19mm wrench. See Figure 3.31. Upper ball joint nut Figure 3.29 2b. NOTE: Apply the brakes or block the hub from rotating, then remove the axle nut and flat washer using a 1-5/16” wrench.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 3d. Support the lower control arm and the hub with enough stability that they will not fall, yet allow some freedom of movement. See Figure 3.33. 3g. Use a soft drift to drive the axle out of the hub. See Figure 3.35. Lower control arm Front hub Figure 3.35 Figure 3.33 NOTE: Positioning a length of 2 X 4 dimensional lumber to brace the hub will make the job easier.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 4b. Move the hub and lower control arm out and forward far enough to slip the end of the axle out of the hub. See Figure 3.37. 7. Installation notes: • Apply anti-seize compound to the splines of the axle before assembly. • Apply anti-seize compound to the bolts that hold the lower control arm to the frame. • Replace any worn hardware or components before reassembly.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials FRONT DIFFERENTIAL REMOVAL 1. Remove one front axle shaft as described in the FRONT HALF SHAFT REMOVAL section of this chapter. It does not matter which one is removed. 2. Disconnect the front drive shaft and unbolt the front differential as described in the FRONT DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL section of this chapter. 3.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials FRONT DIFFERENTIAL 2. NOTE: The front differential will not be repaired in the field. If there is damage to it, it will be replaced as a complete unit. The following section of this chapter is intended to increase the technician’s understanding of how the front differential works. Greater understanding will help eliminate mis-diagnosis of differential-related service issues .
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 4. The height of the pin is adjusted by a set screw that is accessible from the outside of the housing. See Figure 3.42. 6. The pinion shaft and bearing slip out of the housing once the cover is removed. See Figure 3.44. Pinion bearing PInion cover Pinion shaft Pinion mesh adjustment screw Figure 3.44 Figure 3.42 4a. 4b. NOTE: The pinion shaft can be removed together with the pinion cover, or separately.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 8. The left side of the housing contains a small electromagnet. See Figure 3.46. • The magnet acts on a toothed steel ring. • The toothed ring engages the end of a cage that surrounds two sets of rollers. See Figure 3.48. 2-sets of rollers Electro-magnet Roller cage Toothed steel ring Cable-tie to hold rollers in place during removal Figure 3.48 Figure 3.46 • NOTE: Each roller is centered in its recess in the cage by a set of springs.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials • The right side drive spool is supported in a similar Timken ball bearing in the larger right-side housing. See Figure 3.49. 11. The caged rollers fit down into the drum, with the drive spools rotating freely within the rollers, as long as the magnet is not energized. See Figure 3.51. Pilot bearing Bearing material sleeve Right-side drive spool Figure 3.49 Figure 3.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 13. 13a. The wheel to the inside of the curve will rotate the fastest, clamping the rollers tightest between the inside drive spool and the ring gear drum. NOTE: If the universal joints exhibit enough play to indicate that they are worn, or if the rear driveshaft is identified as the source of a driveline vibration, replace the driveshaft as an assembly. 13b.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 3. Remove the four bolts that hold the bottom of the rear differential to the frame using a 9/16” wrench. See Figure 3.53. 5. Once disconnected, remove the driveshaft. See Figure 3.55. Accessible from beneath vehicle Rear drive shaft Rear differential mounting bolts Rear differential pinion spline Figure 3.55 Figure 3.53 3.1. Remove two bolts that hold the differential housing to the torque bracket using a 13mm wrench. 3.2.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 6.1. 2. Test-run the vehicle in a safe area before returning it to service. Item ft-lbs 2a. N-m Torque bracket to frame 16-20 22-27 Torque bracket to differential 20-22** 27-30** Differential to frame 32-36** 43-49** Preparation for removal of a rear axle: If an impact wrench is unavailable: • Engage the differential lock and apply the parking brake.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 5. Disconnect the top of the rear hub from the upper control arm using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. 9. NOTE: To hold the upper control arm out of the way while working, loosen the bolts that hold it to the frame. Tilt the arm up out of the way and tighten one of the bolts to hold it there. Return the arm to it’s static position on assembly. 6. Tilt the hub out from the upper control arm, providing support so that it does not stress the brake line.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 12. From this point, any repairs made to the axle can be done on the bench, or it may be replaced as a complete unit. See Figure 3.61. Drive axle (half shaft) removed 13. Assembly notes: • Inspect the splines and shaft seals before installing the axle. Make any needed repairs before reassembly. • Apply anti-seize compound to the splined joints on assembly and to the bolts connecting the hub to the upper control arm.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials REAR DIFFERENTIAL REMOVAL 1. Remove one of the rear axles as described in the REAR AXLE REMOVAL section of this manual. NOTE: It is not strictly necessary to remove the cargo box for the remainder of this procedure, but the technician may choose to do so for ease of access. CAUTION: Allow the engine and exhaust system to cool to a safe temperature before starting any work in close proximity to them. 2. 5.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 9. 12. Remove one of the two bolts that hold the exhaust system bracket to the forward crossmember using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. Loosen the second nut and bolt. See Figure 3.66. Clean the area surrounding the connection to the second axle, and pop the axle loose from the differential. See Figure 3.68. Muffler Pry bar attachment bolts Second C.V. joint Forward cross member Figure 3.68 Figure 3.66 10.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 16. Assembly notes: Rear differential installation • Inspect the splines and shaft seals before installing the rear differential. Make any necessary repairs before reassembly. • Lubricate the Splined joints with a small amount of anti-seize compound on assembly. • Reverse the removal procedure to install the differential and half-shaft. • Confirm that the drive shaft splines are properly aligned so that the holes for the tension pin lineup.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 2. 2c. To remove the pinion cartridge: 2a. Remove the four screws that secure the cartridge using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 3.71. Keep track of the number of shims on each cartridge if the differential is disassembled. See Figure 3.73. Pinion shaft Shims O-ring seal Pinion cartridge Figure 3.73 Figure 3.71 2b. 2d. Pull the cartridge off of the main housing. It may be necessary to shock it with a soft drift. See Figure 3.72. 3.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 3c. Keep track of the 1.0mm shims beneath the mounting flange of the bearing cartridge. 3f. NOTE: The shims set the end-play and position of the differential. 3d. With the left bearing cartridge removed, the differential carrier bearing cone is exposed. See Figure 3.77. Carrier bearing The left bearing cartridge holds the sealed bearing that supports the inner end of the axle. See Figure 3.75.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 4b. 5a. The right side case half can also be removed with the cartridge in-place. See Figure 3.79. Right-side case Differential lock fork The differential components and ring gear are held together by one set of 3/8”-24 gr. 8 screws. With the screws removed, the ring gear comes-off and the differential can be separated. See Figure 3.81. Differential housing, less ring gear: ready to separate Differential assembly Figure 3.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 5d. The four pins on the differential lock collar extend through the differential side plate when the lock is engaged. This locks the 16-tooth bevel gear to the differential side plate. See Figure 3.83. 4 differential lock pins 5f. With the block and cross-pins removed, the four 10-tooth meter gears can be lifted-out of the differential body. See Figure 3.85.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials 6a. 6c. The first step is to set the pre-load on the carrier bearings. Pre-load is set with the total number of shims separating the carrier bearing cartridges from the differential housing. See Figure 3.87. Once the number of shims is correct, the distribution from left-to right must be determined. See Figure 3.88. Shims Carrier bearing cartridge Figure 3.88 Figure 3.
Chapter 3 - Drive System: Drive Shafts and Differentials • Removing shims from the pinion cartridge reduces back-lash, moves the contact patch toward the base of the pinion gear and inward on the radius of the ring gear. • Shimming the ring gear closer to the pinion gear reduces back lash with minimal effect on the location of the contact patch • Once the back-lash and gear mesh are set correctly, install the O-ring seals on each of the cartridges.
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Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering CHAPTER 4 - FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING ABOUT THIS CHAPTER: FRONT SUSPENSION & STEERING: INSPECTION Layout: There are three main sections of this chapter Adjustability: 1. The first section is concerned with identifying problems in the front suspension and steering system. • The toe angle and spring rates are adjustable on the front wheels. • Spring rates effect the camber angle. 2.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering Things to know about tire pressure: 1. A large imbalance in air pressure from left to right on the front tires will put undue strain on the over-running clutch in the front differential when operating in four-wheel-drive mode on paved surfaces. • Front tread blocks that appear “smeared” inward on the front surface of the tire indicate a toe-out condition.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering Steering gear: See Figure 4.3. 2a. If the steering requires more than 20 lbs. (9.1 kg.) of force applied where the steering wheel spokes meet the rim, isolate the steering gear from the rest of the system. Make this test with the vehicle empty. The front wheels should be on a smooth, dry concrete surface. 2b. To isolate the steering gear, disconnect the tie rod ends one at a time.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering Spring and damper units See Figure 4.7. Ride height See Figure 4.6. Front spring and damper assembly 10” Figure 4.7 Figure 4.6 1. Prior to checking ride height, roll the vehicle back and forth, bouncing it slightly to settle the suspension. 2. Check front ride height on a firm level surface, with the front seats and cargo box empty, and the tires properly inflated. 3. Ride height, measured at the front bottom corner of the frame should be 10” + 1/2” (25.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering Wheel bearings See Figure 4.8. Brakes • While spinning the wheels to check the wheel bearings, pay attention to the amount of effort necessary to spin the wheel. • A wheel that does not spin easily most likely indicates a dragging brake. Symptoms: A dragging brake is likely to generate a customer complaint that the vehicle pulls to one side or the other. Refer to the HYDRAULIC BRAKES chapter of this manual for specific brake service procedures.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 2. 3. Apply a lifting/tilting force of 50-75 lbs. (22.734kg.) 4. If the wheel rocks more than 1/8” (.32cm) beyond the wheel bearing play, one or both ball joints are worn. 5. To check the control arm bushings: See Figure 4.10. Grasp the tire as described in the FRONT SUSPENSION INSPECTION: WHEEL BEARINGS portion of this section of the manual.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering FRONT SUSPENSION ALIGNMENT Alignment Specifications: Adjustability: The toe angle and spring rates are adjustable on the front wheels. Need for adjustment: • • • Alignment should be checked whenever front suspension or steering parts are replaced. Before making any front suspension adjustments, check the components as described in the FRONT SUSPENSION INSPECTION section of this manual. Replace any worn components before making and adjustment.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 4. Position the framer’s square vertical against a plain area on the sidewall of the tire. It should touch the lower part of the sidewall, but there should be a gap between the framer’s square and the upper part of the sidewall. 5. Measure the distance between the framer’s square and the nearest spot on the upper sidewall using the adjustable square. 6. Camber should be 1.25 + .25 deg. negative: See Figure 4.14.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 7. If the camber is out of adjustment, and the ride height is correct, there are worn or damaged parts in the front suspension.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 10. 13. Take measurements between the string and the gussets where the base of the rear OPS support structure meets the floor of the vehicle. See Figure 4.18. To correct the illustrated toe-in condition on the left front wheel, shorten the tie rod. See Figure 4.19. Loosen jam nut Gusset Turn tie rod Shorten Lengthen Front of vehicle 1-3/4” Target point Turn tie rod Rear fender (measurement shows excessive toe-in) Figure 4.19 Figure 4.18 13a. 11.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 14. Correcting a steering wheel that is not visually centered when the wheels are pointed straight ahead: • Shortening the left tie rod and lengthening the right tie rod by a corresponding amount will bias the steering to the left. If the steering wheel needs to rotate clockwise to be visually centered, this adjustment will straighten the wheel. • 16a. Pry the cover off of the center of the steering wheel. 16b.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 4. Steering travel stop bolts If adjustment is necessary: See Figure 4.22. In normal service, these should not need adjusting. If it is necessary to adjust the stop bolts, use the following guidelines. Travel stop bolt Contact point on bracket on lower control arm The stop bolts should be adjusted so that the maximum outside angle of the constant velocity joint is 43º.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING COMPONENT REPLACEMENT 5. Install the replacement spring and damper unit. Tighten the nuts to a torque of 42-64 ft-lbs (6088 N-m). 6. If the spring and damper that was removed was adjusted to meet the operating conditions of the vehicle, adjust the new one to the same spring rate. See Figure 4.25. Spring and Damper Unit Refer to the INSPECTION section of this chapter for information on when to replace spring and damper units. 1.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 5. Tie Rod End Refer to the INSPECTION section of this chapter for information on when to replace tie rod ends. 1. Lift and safely support the vehicle as described in the INTRODUCTION section of this manual. The vehicle should be supported by the frame. 2. Remove the front wheel using a 3/4” wrench. 3. Match-mark the tie rod jam nut so that the new tie rod end can be installed to the same thread depth on the tie rod. See Figure 4.26.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 7. Once released from the steering arm on the hub assembly, spin the tie rod end out of the tie rod. A 9/16” wrench may be used on the square section of the tie rod, to keep it from rotating. See Figure 4.29. Upper Ball Joint 1. Lift and safely support the vehicle as described in the INTRODUCTION section of this manual. The vehicle should be supported by the frame. 9/16” wrench to hold tie rod 2. Remove the front wheel using a 3/4” wrench. 3.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 5. 7. Separate the upper ball joint from the upper control arm: See Figure 4.31. Position a two-jaw puller to drive the ball joint downward, out of the upper control arm. See Figure 4.33. Two-jaw puller Chisel Drive ball joint down Figure 4.31 Figure 4.33 5a. 5b. 5c. 6. Position a chisel as a wedge between the top surface of the hub assembly and the bottom surface of the upper control arm. The chisel tip should not point toward the joint. 8.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 11. Position the new ball joint for installation: See Figure 4.35. 11e. Remove the socket when it meets the bottom of the upper control arm. 11f. Upper control arm supported by jack stands, board, and socket Continue driving the ball joint until it is fully seated. See Figure 4.37. Drive ball joint into upper control arm without damaging either part Figure 4.35 11a.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 14. 15. Upper Control Arm (and bushings) Re-connect the bottom of the spring and damper unit to the control arm, tightening the nut to a torque of 42-26 ft-lbs (60-88 N-m). If the locking feature of the nut has worn, replace the nut or apply a small amount of threadlocking compound such as Loctite® 242 (blue) to the threads. Refer to the INSPECTION section of this chapter for information on when to replace control arm bushings.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 3. Remove the bolts that fasten the upper control arm to the frame using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 4.40. 5c. Drive the bushing out of the arm. 5d. Clean and lubricate the bore that the bushing was driven out of. 5e. Reverse the positions of the arbors to drive the replacement bushing in. Press it until the outer steel sleeve of the bushing is flush with the edge of the bore. See Figure 4.42.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 11. Install the wheel, and tighten the lug nuts to a torque of 75 ft-lbs (102 N-m). 12. Lower the vehicle to the ground. 13. Check alignment, and test drive the vehicle in a safe area before returning it to service. Item ft-lbs Lower Ball Joint Refer to the INSPECTION section of this chapter for information on when to replace ball joints. N-m Spring and damper unit mounting bolts 42-64 60-88 Ball joint stud nut 22-28 30-38 Lug nuts 65-75 88-102 1.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 4. Loosen the bolts (one turn) that hold the lower control arm to the frame using a 9/16” wrench. See Figure 4.44. 6. Washer (front) Bolts attaching lower control arm to frame Carefully pry or drive a wedge between the lower control arm and the hub assembly to pull the ball joint down, out of the hub. See Figure 4.46. Lower ball joint and lower control arm Hub assembly Pry bar Figure 4.44 Figure 4.46 5.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 9. 11. To separate the lower ball joint from the control arm: See Figure 4.48. Brass drift To install the new ball joint into the hub: 11a. Drive ball joint into the hollow of the socket Position the new ball joint under the hub, with the metal shoulder of the ball joint supported by a seal driver or a length of tubing. See Figure 4.49. Soft drift and nut protect threads Lower ball joint firmly supported by shoulder Lower control arm Socket Figure 4.48 9a.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 11d. Secure the new ball joint with a new retaining ring. See Figure 4.51. 14. Secure the ball joint stud to the hub assembly, tightening the nut to a torque of 22-28 ft-lbs (3038 N-m). If the locking feature of the nut has worn, replace the nut. 15. Prop, or jack-up the front suspension to get the upper control arm roughly horizontal, then tighten the nuts at the lower control arm/frame pivot point to a torque of 32-36 ft-lbs. (43-49 Nm).
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 3. Wheel Bearings Refer to the INSPECTION section of this chapter for information on when to replace the wheel bearings. Remove the C-Clips from the brake caliper mounting pins using a small screwdriver. See Figure 4.53. Wheel bearing construction: • A pair of tapered Timken® roller bearing cones support the axle in each front hub. Both bearing cones ride in a one-piece cup (race) that is shaped like the middle third of an hour glass.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 5. When the mounting pins are removed the pads will come loose, and the caliper will come free of the bracket on the hub assembly. See Figure 4.55. 8. Affix an automotive hub puller to the axle and hub assembly. See Figure 4.57. Brake caliper removed Figure 4.57 Figure 4.55 9. CAUTION: Support the caliper. Do not allow it to hang on the flexible hydraulic line.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 10. 12. Remove the nut that holds the upper ball joint to the hub, and separate the upper ball joint from the hub as described in the Upper Ball Joint section of this chapter. See Figure 4.59. Support the hub assembly and separate the lower ball joint from the hub, as described in the Lower Ball Joint section of this chapter. See Figure 4.61. Hub supported Separating upper ball joint Figure 4.59 11. Figure 4.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 17. Press the bearing assembly using a round arbor that has an outside diameter of roughly 2.125” (5.39cm), pressing against the outer edge of the cup. See Figure 4.63. 19c. Strike the hubcap on top of a work bench with sufficient force to cause the bearing cone to dislodge the seal. See Figure 4.65. Bearing cone seal 4X4 hub cap Figure 4.65 Figure 4.63 18. The bearing assembly will come out with the bearing cones captive, held in by the seals. 19.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 22. 23j. Position each bearing cone in its side of the cup, and press the seal in flush behind it using a flat driver. See Figure 4.66. Flat driver (2X4) Bearing cone Install the brake pads and caliper. Tighten the mounting pins to a torque of 22-26ftlbs (30-35 N-m), and secure them with Cclips. 24. Install the wheel, and tighten the lug nuts to a torque of 75 ft-lbs (102 Nm). 25. Lower the vehicle to the ground. 26.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering Steering Gear 5. Refer to the INSPECTION section of this chapter for information on when to replace the steering gear. NOTE: Diesel models: The radiator, bracket, fan, and shroud (cooling matrix) assembly may get in the way of removing the hardware that holds the kick panel in place. The assembly can be unbolted and moved out of the way without completely disconnecting and removing it.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 8. 9c. Carefully slide the cooling matrix directly forward. Do not allow the radiator core to come into contact with anything that might damage it. See Figure 4.69. Cooling matrix Remove the shoulder bolt that the throttle pedal pivots on using a 9/16” wrench and a 3/4” wrench. See Figure 4.71. Throttle pedal Pivot point Shoulder bolt Cooling matrix = radiator + fan + air ducts Figure 4.71 Figure 4.69 9d.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 11. Remove the kick panel: 11a. Remove the 4 screws that hold the kick panel to the floor using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 4.73. NOTE: The far left bolt can be most easily loosened from below the vehicle. A socket and a long extension can be inserted behind the left side steering rack gaiter, just inboard of the inner fender, to reach the nut. Steering gear box 11c. Lift the kick panel out of the vehicle. 12.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 15c. Insert the steering rack mounting bolts, threading the nuts on finger tight. After all the nuts and bolts are in position, tighten each to a torque of 18-22 ft-lbs. (24.5-30 N-m). 13b. Three bolts hold the left side of the steering gear box. See Figure 4.77. 15d. Insert the pinch bolt that clamps the lower universal joint to the splined shaft on the steering gear box. Install the nut on the bolt, and tighten it to a torque of 32-36 ft-lbs. (43-49 N-m).
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering Steering Shaft 5. Refer to the INSPECTION section of this chapter for information on when to replace the steering shaft. Remove the grab handle from the passenger’s side of the dash panel using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 4.80. To remove the steering shaft and the bearings that support it: 1. 2. Remove the hood for easy access: 1a. Open the hood. 1b. Disconnect the headlights 1c. Disconnect the check cables using a 3/8” wrench. 1d.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 7. 9. Remove the steering wheel: See Figure 4.82. Remove the driver’s side hood and dash support bracket using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 4.84. Hood and dash support bracket bolts Figure 4.82 Figure 4.84 7a. 7b. 7c. 7d. 8. Remove the cover from the center of the steering wheel by carefully prying it off. 10. Remove the bolt that holds the steering wheel to the steering shaft using a 1/2” wrench.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 12. Remove the four sets of nuts and bolts that hold the steering wheel bracket to the frame using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 4.86. 14. If the steering shaft is to be removed, disconnect it from the splined input shaft of the steering gear box by removing the clamp bolt on the lower universal joint of the steering shaft. Use a pair of 9/ 16” wrenches. See Figure 4.88. Steering wheel bracket Clamp bolt Figure 4.86 13. Figure 4.
Chapter 4 - Front Suspension and steering 16. Assembly notes: 16k. Connect the negative cable to the battery. 16a. Lubricate the splines that join the steering shaft to the steering gear box with antiseize compound. Align the blind spline on the steering shaft with the blind spline on the steering box input shaft, and slide the steering shaft into place on the steering box. See Figure 4.89. 16l. Install the hood. 16m. Test run the vehicle in a safe area before returning it to service.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension CHAPTER 5 - REAR SUSPENSION 2. ABOUT THIS CHAPTER: Layout: There are two main sections of this chapter 1. The first section is concerned with identifying problems in the rear suspension. 2. The second section covers component replacement methods. Rear suspension inspection: Tire inflation See Figure 5.1. Approach: How the sections fit together 1. The first step in troubleshooting the rear suspension is to check the basics.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension 3. Rear suspension inspection: tire size and condition. • Do not rotate the tires. Tire sizes differ from front-to-rear and are directional. • Do not use mis-matched tires. • Original Equipment is: Carlisle brand AT489 model direction-specific trail tire Front: 26x10.00-12 size Rear: 26x11.00-12 size Other tires may be used in future production.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension 6. Checking rear wheel toe angle: 7. NOTE: Rear wheel toe angle should be ZERO, and is not adjustable. If there is toe-in or toe-out in the rear suspension, it is due to worn or damaged parts that should be identified and replaced. 6a. A string or (straight-edge) that just touches the outer edge of the tire side-wall, at the height of the wheel’s hub should be parallel to the outer frame channel. 6b.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension 8. Inspecting wheel bearings. See Figure 5.6. Figure 5.6 9. 8a. Lift and safely support the rear of the vehicle as described in the LIFTING AND SUPPORTING section of the INTRODUCTION chapter of this manual. 8b. Rock the wheel around a horizontal axis with light pressure (less than 10 lbs. / 4.5 kg.). 8c. There should be less than 1/8” (.32 cm) total rock from top to bottom (the top part of the sidewall moves 1/16” and the bottom moves 1/16”). 9a.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension 10. Inspecting the rear control arm bushings: See Figure 5.9. 11. Anti-sway bar inspection. See Figure 5.10. Anti-sway bar mount and pillow block Curved end of prybar Anti-sway bar end link Upper control arm bushing Figure 5.10 Figure 5.9 • The upper control arm bushings are more prone to wear than the lower control arm busings, but the technique for checking them is the same.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension COMPONENT REPLACEMENT 5. Install the replacement spring and damper unit. Tighten the nuts to a torque of 42-64 ft-lbs (6088 N-m). 6. If the spring and damper that was removed was adjusted to meet the operating conditions of the vehicle, adjust the new one to the same spring rate. See Figure 5.13. Spring and Damper Unit Refer to the INSPECTION section of this chapter for information on when to replace spring and damper units. 1.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension 4. Control Arms and Bushings Refer to the INSPECTION section of this chapter for information on when to replace control arm bushings. 1. Remove the bolts that fasten the control arm to the frame using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 5.16. Separate the hub from the control arm by removing the hub bolt using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 5.14. Figure 5.16 NOTE: Both bolts enter from the rear of the vehicle.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension 6c. Drive the bushing out of the arm. 6d. Clean and lubricate the bore that the bushing was driven out of. 6e. Reverse the positions of the arbors to drive the replacement bushing in. Press it until the outer steel sleeve of the bushing is flush with the edge of the bore. See Figure 5.18. 7. Fasten the control arm to the frame of the vehicle. The brake line should go over the top of the arm. Do not tighten the nuts at this point. 8.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension Control arm to Hub bushings 1. 2. Remove the control arm from the hub by following the steps described in the previous section of this chapter. Wheel Bearings Refer to the INSPECTION section of this chapter for information on when to replace the wheel bearings. Press the spacer out. With the spacer removed the bushings can now be removed. See Figure 5.19. Wheel bearing construction: • A pair of tapered Timken® roller bearing cones support the axle in each front hub.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension 5. 2. Remove the rear wheel using a 3/4” wrench. 3. Remove the C-Clips from the brake caliper mounting pins using a small screwdriver. See Figure 5.20. When the mounting pins are removed the pads will come loose, and the caliper will come free of the bracket on the hub assembly. See Figure 5.22. Caliper slides out freely C-Clip Figure 5.22 Figure 5.20 4. CAUTION: Support the caliper. Do not allow it to hang on the flexible hydraulic line.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension 7. Remove the axle nut and the heavy flat washer behind it using a 1 5/16” wrench. 8. Affix an automotive hub puller to the axle and hub assembly. See Figure 5.24. 10. Remove the hub bolts using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 5.26. 9/16” wrenches Automotive hub puller Figure 5.26 9. Figure 5.24 11. Carefully slide the hub assembly off the axle, and remove the from the vehicle.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension 14. 16c. Strike the hubcap on top of a work bench with sufficient force to cause the bearing cone to dislodge the seal. See Figure 5.30. Press the bearing assembly using a round arbor that has an outside diameter of roughly 2.125” (5.39cm), pressing against the outer edge of the cup. See Figure 5.28. Bearing cone seal 4X4 hub cap Figure 5.30 Figure 5.28 15. The bearing assembly will come out with the bearing cones captive, held in by the seals. 16.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension 19. Position each bearing cone in its side of the cup, and press the seal in flush behind it using a flat driver. See Figure 5.31. Flat driver (2X4) 20f. Install the brake rotor on the hub, and secure it with the heavy washer and castle nut. 20g. Tighten the axle nut to a torque of 150165 ft-lbs. (203-224 N-m) and secure it with a new 5/32”x1-1/4” (.4x3.175cm) cotter pin. 20h. Install the brake pads and caliper.
Chapter 5 - Rear Suspension SWAY BAR AND LINKS Sway bar and bushings removal: Sway Bar and Bushings service intent: 1. Remove the sway bar links as described above. • If the sway bar bushings show signs of wear, replace them. 2. Remove the sway bar bushing mounts using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 5.33. • If the ball joint in the sway bar links have play, replace the sway bars links. Sway bar mount Replacement of the sway bar links: 1.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes CHAPTER 6 - HYDRAULIC BRAKES GENERAL INFORMATION Checking the fluid: See Figure 6.2. Service intent: If the master cylinder or brake caliper fails under warrantable conditions, replace it as a complete unit. Rebuild kits may eventually become available through Cub Cadet, but failures in the initial two years of production will be serviced primarily with replacement master cylinders or calipers. Lock tabs Notches Scope: This chapter covers the hydraulic service brakes.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes BRAKE PUSH ROD ADJUSTMENT: The brake hydraulic system is divided into two circuits: front and rear. See Figure 6.3. Front chamber Rear chamber • In the course of normal operation, brake adjustment should not be necessary. • If brake adjustment does become necessary, check the system for wear, damage, and leaks. 3. To make an adjustment: loosen the brake clevis jam nut using a 13mm wrench, while holding the brake actuator rod with a 6mm wrench. See Figure 6.4.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes BRAKE FLUID FLUSHING AND BLEEDING 3. The brake fluid should be flushed and bled every two years. NOTE: Be careful of spilling brake fluid on painted surfaces. While the powder-coat process used on the frame of the Cub Cadet utility vehicle line is relatively resilient to brake fluid, surrounding surfaces may not be. The brake fluid should be bled any time the pressurized portion of the hydraulic system has been opened.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 7. To bleed under pedal-pressure: See Figure 6.9. NOTE: If it is suspected that air is trapped in the master cylinder it may be necessary to bleed the master cylinder. 12. Apply pressure The procedure for bleeding at the master cylinder closely follows the procedure use to bleed the individual wheels. Instead of loosening the bleeder screws at each caliper the Banjo bolts at the base of the master cylinder are loosened to allow the air trapped to escape. See Figure 6.10.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS Firm pedal but poor brake performance Soft Pedal • Friction surface problems are the most likely cause of this situation. Clean any liquids off the brake rotor, and identify the source of those liquids. If the source is an oil or gear lube leak, repair it to prevent reoccurrence. If the pads are contaminated, replace them.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes Brake drag / pulling (if at front caliper) AT-WHEEL COMPONENTS • The brake calipers (single-piston, floating) are identical front to rear, and the pad replacement method is identical as well. See Figure 6.11. • • • Caliper frozen on slide pins: After a long period of dis-use or extremely gentle use, the calipers may have become stuck on the slide pins by corrosion or debris.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes Brake Pads: The brake caliper must be removed to replace the brake pads. 1. 5. Remove the C-clips from the mounting pins using a small screwdriver. See Figure 6.13. When the mounting pins are completely removed, the caliper will come free of the bracket on the hub. See Figure 6.15. Caliper removed C-clips Figure 6.15 Figure 6.13 2. Loosen the top bleed screw 1/2 turn using a 1/4” wrench. 3. Remove the mounting pins using a 3/8” allen wrench. See Figure 6.14.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 7. Check the slide bushings. See Figure 6.17. 9. Check the brake rotor as described in the following section of this manual before reinstalling the caliper. Replace the rotor if necessary. 10. Installation notes: brake caliper See Figure 6.19. Slide bushing O-ring seals NOTE: A brake pad service kit is available as 959-04116. This kit is not shown in the Illustrated Parts List. The kit consists of: two brake pads, two slide pins, and two retaining rings.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 11. Bleed the hydraulic system, if necessary. Component Repair: Brake calipers 12. Install the wheels, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 1. 13. Test-drive the vehicle in a safe area before returning it to service. Remove the brake caliper as described previously in the AT-WHEEL COMPONENTS section of this manual. 2. Remove and inspect the slide bushings that go over the mounting pins. See Figure 6.20.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 5. Remove both bleeder screws with a 1/4” wrench. See Figure 6.22. 7. With the piston removed from the bore, the square section O-rings can be removed from their grooves in the bore. See Figure 6.24. Caliper housing Bleeder screws Piston bore O-rings in bore Figure 6.22 Figure 6.24 6. Drive the piston out of the bore using hydraulic pressure, a screw, or a drift through the hydraulic port. See Figure 6.23. NOTE: The piston is symmetric, and closed at both ends. 8.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 10. Assemble the caliper using the new parts contained in the kit, installed as described in the disassembly process. See Figure 6.25. 13. Carefully insert the piston into the bore of the cylinder. See Figure 6.26. Insert piston into bore Caliper housing O-rings Piston Figure 6.26 Figure 6.25 11. Lubricate the bore of the caliper with brake fluid.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 2. Brake Rotors Examine the brake rotors. Original thickness is .1875” (4.76mm). See Figure 6.27. Remove and discard the cotter pin that secures the axle nut. See Figure 6.29. Axle nut Cotter pin Dial indicator mounted to steering travel stop bolt Figure 6.29 Figure 6.27 3. Remove the axle nut and the heavy flat washer behind it using a 32mm wrench. 4. Affix an automotive hub puller to the axle and hub assembly. See Figure 6.30.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 5. Use the puller to draw the hub and rotor assembly off of the axle and hub carrier (upright) assembly. See Figure 6.31. 7. Installation notes: brake rotor 7a. Inspect the axle splines, hub splines, wheel studs, and axle threads before assembly. Replace any suspect components. 7b. Apply a small amount of thread locking compound such as Loctite® 262 (red) to the bolts that hold the brake rotor to the hub, prior to assembly.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes MASTER CYLINDER To Replace a Master Cylinder: Before condemning a master cylinder, check the following: 1. Open and remove the hood for easy access to the master cylinder: • Leaking lines or fittings 1a. Tilt the hood forward • Leaking caliper piston seals 1b. Disconnect the wires from the headlights • Binding caliper slide bushings 1c. • Pedal linkage binding or mis-adjustment Disconnect the hood check cables using a 3/8” wrench. 1d.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 5. Remove the left front fender from the vehicle: See Figure 6.35. Left front fender 11. Disconnect the brake lines using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 6.37. Nuts / bolts Copper washers Self-tapping screws 90 degree front 45 degree rear Figure 6.37 Figure 6.35 6. Remove the 3 sets of nuts and bolts attaching the fender to the frame uprights using a pair of 7/16” wrenches. NOTE: The front circuit is connected with a 90 degree elbow.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 13. Installation notes: Mounting the master cylinder See Figure 6.39. Mounting bolts 15. Bleed the entire brake hydraulic system, starting at the furthest point of each circuit: • Check for leaks and pedal feel. 16. Final assembly: 16a. Install the front fender 16b. Install the front spring and damper unit. 16c. Install the wheels 16d. Lower the vehicle to the ground 16e. Test drive the vehicle in a safe area 16f.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes Pedal Linkage 5. The pedal pivots on a pair of thin-wall split plastic bushings. A dry graphite or PTFE-based spray lube may extend the life of the bushings. Once the brake pedal is loose, the bushings can be easily pried-out and replaced. 6. To remove the brake pedal arm from the vehicle: See Figure 6.42. To replace the bushings: 1. 2. Remove the left front fender, as described in the To Replace a Master Cylinder section of this chapter.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 4. Component Repair: Master Cylinder NOTE: Master cylinder repair will not be available during the initial year of production. • Pending availability, this section of the manual will provide guidance repairing the master cylinder. • If repair parts are not available, this section will help the technician further understand the workings of the master cylinder, which may aid in the diagnosis of a brake hydraulic problem. 1.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 5d. Remove the dust seal from the push rod end of the master cylinder. See Figure 6.47. 6. Remove the rear piston and spring from the master cylinder bore. See Figure 6.49. Dust seal Rear piston assembly Match mark for jam nut Figure 6.49 Figure 6.47 7. 5e. Carefully fixture the master cylinder in a vice. Do not clamp it tightly enough to distort the bore. Do not damage any of the threaded features or sealing surfaces. 5f.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 8. 8d. Install the repair kit components on the rear piston: 8a. Carefully fixture the front piston in a vice, gripping it by the necked-down section of the piston. 8b. Remove the shouldered screw that secures the transfer cup, transfer spring, and spring seat, to the rear piston using a phillips head screwdriver. See Figure 6.51. Remove the make-up seal from the rear end of the rear piston. See Figure 6.52.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 9b. Remove the power seal and flat washer from the front end of the front piston. See Figure 6.54. Make-up ports in flange behind flat washer are sealed under load. On return, the flat washer lifts off the ports, allowing fluid transfer Front piston Flat washer Power seal Spring seat 10. Inspect the bore of the master cylinder. • If the bore is undamaged, clean it thoroughly and continue with assembly.
Chapter 6 - Hydraulic Brakes 17. Compress the springs, pushing the pistons into the bore using the push rod. See Figure 6.56. Push rod Retaining ring Retainer plate Rear piston Figure 6.56 18. Secure the push rod and retaining plate by installing the snap ring. NOTE: Use a new snap ring if the original shows signs of stress. 19. Install the dust seal over the push rod. 20. Install the jam nut, and yoke to the position marked in the disassembly process. 21.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System CHAPTER 7 - KOHLER ENGINE SERVICE ACCESS AND FUEL SYSTEM ENGINE MAINTENANCE ACCESS CAUTION: Allow the engine and it’s exhaust system to cool before performing any work on or around the engine.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 4. 4d. The air filter can be reached by removing the air filter cover. The cover is secured by a captive wing-nut. See Figure 7.3. Look for evidence of dirt ingestion inside of the filter. It will be most pronounced near the source of vacuum: the carburetor throat. See Figure 7.5. Figure 7.3 Figure 7.5 NOTE: Engine manufacturer’s recommended maintenance intervals are embossed on the inside of the air filter cover. Follow them. 4a. 4e.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 6. To Change the oil and filter: 5a. Lift and safely support the vehicle. 5b. Position a drain pan beneath the oil filter and drain. 5c. Open the drain valve using a 10mm wrench. 5d. Clean thoroughly around the filter before removing it. 5e. “Prime” the replacement filter with oil by pouring the oil into the threaded hole in the filter base. Fill the filter once, and allow the oil to be absorbed into the filter media.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 6d. 6f. Remove the remaining fasteners that hold the fender to the vehicle: See Figure 7.9. The high tension lead and spark plug can be reached through an opening between the top frame member and the fuel tank. See Figure 7.11. Fender mounting screws #2 spark plug access Figure 7.9 • Figure 7.11 Remove the two screws that hold the front edge of the fender to the upright that the rear tube of the OPS mounts to using a 5/16” wrench.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 7. 8. Removing the splash shield provides access to the right side of the engine. See Figure 7.12. To remove the starter motor: See Figure 7.14. Starter solenoid Heavy-gauge “Hot” cable Mounting screws Trigger wire Starter motor body Splash shield Figure 7.14 Figure 7.12 7a. Remove the right rear fender as described previously in this section. 7b. Remove the 6 screws connecting the splash shield to the frame using a 1/2” wrench. 7c.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 8f. 9b. Reverse the procedure to install the starter. Tighten the bolts that hold the starter to the engine block to a torque of 135 in. lb. (15.3 N-m). Remove the screws that hold the air filter housing and element cover bracket using an 8mm wrench. See Figure 7.17.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 9e. Remove the screws that hold the voltage regulator and it’s ground strap to the engine using an 8mm wrench. See Figure 7.19. 9.8. Remove the fan, followed by the cooling shroud. See Figure 7.21. Voltage regulator White wires: stator out-put Violet wire Regulator/ rectifier out-put Ground strap Figure 7.21 Figure 7.19 9i. Installation notes: See Figure 7.22. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the wires from the voltage regulator. 9.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System Engine removal Cylinder head removal 1. NOTE: The Cylinder head can be removed from the #1 cylinder without removing the engine from the vehicle. The head on #2 cylinder is too close to the frame to allow removal of the valve cover, so the head cannot be removed with the engine in-place. See Figure 7.23. Remove the cargo box from the vehicle: See Figure 7.24.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 5. Remove the CVT belt and pulleys as described in the DRIVE SYSTEM: CVT BELT AND PULLEYS section of this manual. See Figure 7.25. 9. Carefully disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump inlet barb on the valve cover on the #1 cylinder. See Figure 7.27. Insulating wrap Fuel line from tank disconnect and clamp Engine / transmission plate Fuel pump inlet Figure 7.27 Figure 7.25 6. 7.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 11. Remove the nuts that secure the exhaust manifold to the cylinder heads using a 13mm wrench. See Figure 7.29. NOTE: It is nearly as easy to separate the muffler from the exhaust manifold, but reassembly requires a fresh gasket. It is simpler to remove the system without breaking the joint. 14. Heavy gauge red cable Exhaust manifold Starter motor with attached solenoid Figure 7.29 12.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 19. Attach a lifting apparatus, and carefully raise the engine. Support the engine without straining any of the electrical connections. See Figure 7.32. Engine is lifted and supported for final disconnection of wires 21. Remove the engine completely, placing it on a strong workbench or stable work platform. 22. Prior to engine installation, check all the service points on the engine that are easily assessable while it is removed. 23.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 24. Reverse the removal process to install the engine. • Install the engine mounting bolts loosely, then tighten them after the heavy plate connecting the engine to the transfer case is installed. • Tighten fasteners to the torque specified in the table. • If the locking feature on any of the nuts are worn, replace them or apply a small amount of thread locking compound such as Loctite® 242 (blue) to the threads.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System FUEL SYSTEM: DESCRIPTION CAUTION: Gasoline and it vapors are extremely flammable. Use common sense when working around the fuel system: • Do not work on any part of the fuel system or fill the vehicle with fuel while the engine is running or hot. • Store gasoline only in approved containers in well ventilated area. • Keep gasoline away from any sparks, open flame or other sources of potential ignition.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 8. 11. There are three fittings on top of the fuel tank: See Figure 7.37. Fuel tank vent Remove the two screws that fasten the fuel tank hold-down wire to the frame. See Figure 7.39. Fuel level sender Fuel pick-up Hold-down wire Fuel tank Screws Figure 7.37 Figure 7.39 12. 8a. The fuel level sending unit, mounted furthest forward Lift the fuel tank hold-down wire up, and pivot the front of the tank inward. See Figure 7.40. 8b.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 14. Fuel pick-up fitting: See Figure 7.41. 16. Fuel pick-up Bushing When diagnosing a fuel starvation or flooding issue confirm that the vent is not blocked. See Figure 7.43. No pressure Vent good No vacuum Figure 7.41 • The fitting consists of a brass 90 degree elbow and an plastic tube. • The tube reaches to near the bottom of the fuel tank and is shrunk onto the fitting.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 18. Sender diagnostics: See Figure 18.0. • Lower the float to the lowest position to close the contacts in the sender. • ADJUSTMENTS: ENGINE SPEED AND THROTTLE LINKAGE 1. Raise the float approximately 3” to open the contacts in the sender. Float up: contacts open Float down: contacts closed The engine should idle at 1,200 RPM: See Figure 7.45. Figure 7.45 Figure 18.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 7. NOTE: A photo tachometer can be used on the driving clutch element, which is connected directly to the engine crankshaft. A photo tachometer used on the driven clutch element will not register correct engine RPM. 3. Lift the cargo box, release the camloc® fasteners that secure the engine cover and remove the engine cover to reach the throttle linkage. 4.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 9. 11. After the idle and throttle stop are set, check and adjust top no-load speed. See Figure 7.49. Confirm that the cable is securely clamped in place at the engine end. See Figure 7.50. Governor input arm Intermediate governor arm Throttle cable Cable clamp Top no-load speed adjustment screw Figure 7.50 Figure 7.49 • Apply light force to the governor input arm bringing it against the stop. • The engine should reach 3,850 RPM.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System Final Throttle Cable Adjustment: 16. 13. To get full travel, adjust the pedal end of the cable so that the eyelet on the cable core just rests against the socket head cap screw that passes through it. There should be 1/8” to 1/4” travel before tension is felt on the cable. 14. After the cable is adjusted in its bracket, check the adjustment of the travel-stop bolt beneath the pedal. See Figure 7.52.
Chapter 7 - Kohler Engine Service Access and Fuel System 5. CHOKE 1. If a vehicle exhibits any of the following symptoms, inspect the operation of the choke: See Figure 7.56. If the choke does not open and close completely with the operation of the knob, the cable may be adjusted: See Figure 7.58. Choke cable Choke knob Choke arm Figure 7.58 Figure 7.56 • hard starting when the engine is cold or ambient temperatures are low • poor high-load performance • rough or inconsistent idle 2.
Kohler Engine Speed and Throttle Adjustment Addendum KOHLER ENGINE SPEED AND THROTTLE ADJUSTMENT ADDENDUM ADJUSTMENTS: ENGINE SPEED AND THROTTLE LINKAGE 1. NOTE: A photo tachometer can be used on the driving clutch element, which is connected directly to the engine crankshaft. A photo tachometer used on the driven clutch element will not register correct engine RPM. The engine should idle at 1,200 RPM: See Figure 7a.1. 3.
Kohler Engine Speed and Throttle Adjustment Addendum 7. 9. The governed idle can be adjusted by bending the tab that holds the light spring that applies tension between the governor bracket and the governor arm. It should be set to achieve steady idle of 1,300 RPM. See Figure 7a.3. After the idle and throttle stop are set, check and adjust top no-load speed. See Figure 7a.5.
Kohler Engine Speed and Throttle Adjustment Addendum 11. Confirm that the cable is securely clamped in place at the engine end. See Figure 7a.6. Final Throttle Cable Adjustment: 13. To get full travel, adjust the pedal end of the cable so that the eyelet on the cable core just rests against the socket head cap screw that passes through it. There should be 1/8” to 1/4” travel before tension is felt on the cable. 14.
Kohler Engine Speed and Throttle Adjustment Addendum 16. Have an assistant hold the throttle pedal all the way down or block the pedal down with a weight. The throttle pedal arm should be against the head of the travel-stop bolt. See Figure 7a.10. Depress gas pedal Figure 7a.10 17. Pull the throttle cable housing to apply tension to the governor linkage. Tighten the cable clamp with the governor input arm in contact with the stop screw. See Figure 7a.11. Travel stop screw Governor input arm Figure 7a.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems CHAPTER 8 - CATERPILLAR ENGINE AND RELATED SYSTEMS 2. ENGINE MAINTENANCE OVER-VIEW CAUTION: Allow the engine and it’s exhaust system to cool before performing any work on or around the engine. The fuel filter can be reached by tilting the passenger’s seat forward. See Figure 8.2.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 4. The cooling system extends to the front of the vehicle. See Figure 8.4. Front-mounted radiator • The tag Identifies the Model Number (C0.7), Arrangement Number, and Serial Number • These numbers will be necessary when dealing with a Caterpillar Service Center. • Basic engine specifications are described in the table below: Item Figure 8.4 Specification Cylinder Arrangement 3 In-line Firing Order 1-2-3, 120 deg. Displacement 46 inches3 (.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems FILTERS: AIR, OIL, FUEL 1. Importance of the air filter: • Caterpillar recommends a 500 hrs. or annual service interval for air filter replacement. • Intervals may be reduced in severely dusty operating conditions. • Diesel engines are unthrottled. Because the incoming air is not regulated, they may draw-in as much as 6,000 gallons of air for each gallon of fuel consumed. • Ingesting contaminated air will rapidly destroy a diesel engine.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 3. Cleaning the air filter: See Figure 8.9. 4. Air filter construction and installation notes: • Because this utility vehicle is not equipped with a secondary air filter, cleaning the air filter is not recommended in normal service. Generally, if the air filter is removed, it should be replaced with a new one. • A red plastic cap covers the port that is used for the service indicator in other applications. See Figure 8.10.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 5. Engine oil and oil filter • Oil and filter change intervals are 500 hrs or 12 months. This figure may need to be reduced if the load factor for the engine is greater than 40%. The load factor is a function of the way the an individual piece of equipment is used by the operator. • The typical Caterpillar service rating Definition for the engines used in Cub Cadet utility vehicles is “C”. • Caterpillar dealers offer S-O-S oil analysis service.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 6g. Clean thoroughly around the filter before removing it. 6h. Use an appropriate filter wrench to remove the oil filter from the engine. See Figure 8.13. 6l. Disconnect the fuel solenoid by unplugging the connection from the engine wiring harness. See Figure 8.14. Plug Fuel solenoid Oil filter Figure 8.14 6m. Crank the starter motor until the “OIL” light on the instrument cluster goes-out. Do not exceed 30 seconds of cranking.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 6r. • Break apart the pleats to look for excessive debris. • A magnet may be used to differentiate between ferrous and non-ferrous metal. The types of metal in the oil filter provide an indication as to what parts of the engine are wearing. • Normal engine wear will result in some debris accumulation in the oil filter. • Examining filters on a regular basis will help technicians develop a feel for what is a normal amount and what is excessive.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 7a. 7b. 8. With the engine turned-off and cool, tilt the passenger seat forward to reveal the fuel filter. Fuel Filter Maintenance: changing filter CAUTION: Diesel fuel is flammable. Do not service the fuel filter or any other part of the fuel system when the engine is hot or near any source of potential ignition. Place a suitable container under the fuel filter. A shallow container that fits between the coolant pipe and the filter is best.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 8f. Open the air bleed to drain the filter assembly completely. See Figure 8.17. 8i. Install the replacement filter cartridge by pushing it straight onto the filter housing, with the ears aligned to fit the notches in the housing. The unlock icons on the filter cartridge and filter housing should be aligned or nearly aligned to show the orientation of the ears when the filter can be pushed-up. See Figure 8.19.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems Other maintenance items 8m. Wipe-up any spilled fuel. Dispose of any waste fuel in a safe, legal, and environmentally responsible manner. 8n. 1. Turn the key to the run position, but do not start the engine. The electric fuel pump will fill the new cartridge with fuel. The crankcase breather valve is mounted on top of the valve cover/intake manifold assembly. It should be serviced every 2,000 hrs. of use.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 1d. Remove the spring from the breather cover. 1e. Clean the cover thoroughly, making certain that the vent hole is clear. 1f. Apply a very sparing amount of thread locking compound such as Loctite® 242 (blue) to the threads of the screws, and install the breather cover using no sealant. 3b. Correct belt tension is 4.4lbs. (2kg.) using a 7” (18cm) belt span. See Figure 8.23. 2. Valve lash is .008” (0.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 3h. 3e. Use a 5/16” wrench to remove the screws that hold the splash shield to the fender. See Figure 8.25. Mounting screws Right rear fender Figure 8.25 3f. If the previous belt failed prematurely, identify and correct the cause of the belt failure. 3i. Carefully pry the alternator outwards to make the desired change in tension. 3j. Tighten the tension adjusting bolt then the pivot bolt to a torque of 13 ft-lbs. (18 N-m) then re-check belt tension.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 4d. Disconnect the heavy gauge red cable from the alternator using a 10mm wrench. See Figure 8.28. 4i. Withdraw the pivot bolt carefully so as not to drop the shouldered spacer that fits between the alternator and the engine block. See Figure 8.30. Heavy red cable to alternator Figure 8.28 Figure 8.30 4e. Disconnect the paired orange wires from the end of the alternator (IG and L terminals) by squeezing the tab to release the molded connector.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 5b. Remove the splash shield, and disconnect the alternator as described in the proceding section of this chapter. The alternator need not be removed. See Figure 8.31. 5f. Again working from the front of the engine, loosen the upper screw that holds the starter to the engine. 5g. Remove both screws, and withdraw the starter motor through the right rear fender. See Figure 8.33.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 5j. • Install the starter by reversing the removal process. 6b. Use a magnetic socket, or wedge the screws into a conventional socket with a sheet of paper. This will make it easier to reach the threads with the screws. • Tighten the screws to a torque of 13 ft-lbs. (18 N-m). • Test the starter before reinstalling the splash shield. 6. Flywheel Remove the tapered shaft adaptor using a 16mm wrench. See Figure 8.36.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 6f. 6c. Note the match-mark that indexes the flywheel to the crankshaft to maintain factory balance of the rotating assembly. There is a cast dimple in the bolt face of the flywheel. See Figure 8.38. Wiggle the flywheel or rap it with a soft hammer to release it from the crankshaft. See Figure 8.40. CAUTION: Flywheel weighs 20.0 lbs. (9.1Kg.) Dimple in casting Figure 8.40 Figure 8.38 6d.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems • An M10 - 1.25 stud may be temporarily installed in one of the holes to aid positioning. See Figure 8.41. 7a. The exhaust system is covered by a series of heat shields. See Figure 8.42. Muffler shield M10 - 1.25 stud aids in flywheel alignment Exhaust system shield Figure 8.42 Figure 8.41 • Install the bolts and tighten them to a torque of 65 ft-lbs. ( 88 N-m).
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems • • Although it is not directly related to the exhaust system, the engine cover also helps to protect the cargo box and operators from engine heat. It is backed with heat insulating material. See Figure 8.44. The spark arrestor may be removed for cleaning or replacement using a 1/4” wrench. See Figure 8.46. Spark arrestor: must be used in unimproved areas Engine cover: backed with insulating material Figure 8.46 Figure 8.44 7b. 7c.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems • Temporarily creating extra back pressure while the engine runs will cause leaking exhaust gasses to hiss, making them easier to locate. See Figure 8.47. COOLING SYSTEM 1. Precautions: CAUTION: Removing the radiator cap or disconnecting any part of the cooling system when it is hot will allow it to expel hot coolant under pressure, which may cause sever burns.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 2. Cooling System Description 2a. The liquid-cooled engine is mid-mounted, under the cargo box. 2b. The radiator is mounted horizontally, at the front of the vehicle. It is protected by the hood. 2c. An electric fan forces air through the radiator when the coolant in the radiator exceeds a pre-set temperature. See Figure 8.49. 2e. A thermostat on the engine regulates the flow of coolant between the engine and the radiator. 2f.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems • • The vent point at the back of the system is a setscrew at the highest point: the metal coolant pipe that connects to the thermostat housing. See Figure 8.52. Thermostat housing The coolant enters the top (rear) of the radiator, on the left side. See Figure 8.54. Top (rear) coolant hose Vent plug Radiator Figure 8.54 Figure 8.52 • The coolant exits the radiator at the bottom (front) on the right side. See Figure 8.55. 2h.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems • • Coolant returns to the engine through the hose that connects to bottom of the water pump. See Figure 8.56. The fan switch is mounted on the bottom front edge of the radiator, next to the return hose connection. See Figure 8.58. To-radiator Front / bottom edge of radiator Return hose Fan switch Return Figure 8.56 • Figure 8.58 NOTE: In this location, the fan switch monitors the temperature of the coolant as it exits the radiator.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems COOLING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE 1. Coolant requirements • The engine coolant should be sampled annually or every 250 hrs of operation. Submit the coolant sample to the partnering Caterpillar dealer for S-O-S level-1 analysis. This includes checking the glycol concentration, conductivity, pH level, and concentration of SCA (Supplemental Coolant Additive). NOTE: Refer to the accompanying table for water content specifications.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems • 4. The coolant level should be between 1”-4” (2.54cm-10.16cm) deep, as indicated by the two lines on the reservoir. See Figure 8.60. Draining and filling coolant NOTE: Before draining the coolant, pressure test the cooling system and inspect it for any signs of leakage. Most cooling system repairs require at least a partial draining of the system. It makes sense to do any necessary repairs in conjunction with coolant replacement.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 4g. Remove the air vent plug from the to-radiator pipe, above the thermostat housing. A 3/16” allen wrench will fit the plug. See Figure 8.62. NOTE: With the plugs removed, it is acceptable to apply 30 PSI (2.0 Bar) of pressure with a blow-gun to drive the coolant from the system. This is about twice the pressure the system was designed to hold, so it should only be done if there are substantial openings in the system.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 4q. 4x. If liquid does not come out of the air vent port, it may be necessary to pressurize the front of the system using a cooling system test kit. See Figure 8.65. Figure 8.66 Figure 8.65 4r. Apply thread sealant to the air purge plug. Once liquid is expelled from the air purge port, reinstall the plug. 4s. Fill the coolant reservoir to a depth of roughly 3” (7.6cm) with coolant. 4t.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 5. 5f. Cleaning the radiator (external) 5a. The radiator should be visually checked for air blockage at the start of each operating day, while checking the coolant level. 5b. 5c. If over-heating or general operating condition merits extra attention, check the condition of the radiator before checking other components. Heavier mud can be cleared using a water hose. Use line head pressure only. Do not pressure-wash the radiator. See Figure 8.67.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 6. 7. Cooling system checking: radiator See Figure 8.68. Cooling system checking: radiator cap See Figure 8.69. Look for corrosion or blockages within the core. Pressure-test cap: It should release at 13-14 PSI (0.9 Bar) Figure 8.68 6a. • • Figure 8.69 A fair indication of the radiator’s internal condition can be obtained by simply looking into it through the filler neck opening one of the hose connections.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 8a. The system can be tested using a commercially available tester and a 45mm adaptor that also fits Toyota, Mitsubishi, and Subaru cars as well as water-cooled Honda motorcycles (eg. Stant TA 21) 8b. Apply 13-14 PSI (0.9 Bar.) using the test kit and inspect the system for leaks. 8c. Repair any leaks before returning the vehicle to service. • The thermostat is referred-to in Caterpillar text as a “water temperature regulator”.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 9c. Use the non-contact thermometer to monitor the temperature in two spots as the engine warms-up from a cold start: Check the engine block adjacent to the water pump. Check the to-radiator pipe. See Figure 8.72. NOTE: The thermostat opens at 167 deg. f. (75 deg.c.), but the insulating properties of the metal reduce the surface reading.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 10. Cooling system checking: flow 11. 10a. The presence of coolant flow or the lack of coolant flow can be detected using a noncontact thermometer. See Figure 8.75. Cooling system component removal: cooling matrix NOTE: Generally, the cooling matrix is most easily removed as a complete unit, then disassembled on the bench. The cooling fan may be easily removed individually if it is to be replaced. Non-contact thermometer 11a.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 11d. Disconnect the plug that connects the fan to the main wiring harness. That plug is between the cooling matrix and the dash panel, and the lock-tabs are on the short side of each plug. See Figure 8.77. NOTE: With the coolant drained from only the radiator, it can be removed with minimal fluid loss and minimal drainage. 11h. Disconnect the front radiator hose from the lower (front) radiator tank using a 5/16” driver. Disconnect cooling fan 11i.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 11m. Loosen the hose clamp, disconnect the hose, and remove the cooling matrix to a clear workbench. See Figure 8.82. NOTE: Each screw passes through a heavy flat washer and a spacer, providing controlled compression of the rubber mounting bushings. See Figure 8.80. Disassembly is easiest on the bench Mounting screw Rubber grommet Mounting ear Flat washer Spacer Figure 8.82 11n. Any further disassembly can be done easily on the bench. Figure 8.80 11l.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 13. 13e. Place a catch-pan under the matchmarked joint, and disconnect the pipe from the hose. Loosen the hose clamp using a 5/16” driver. See Figure 8.85. Cooling system component removal: coolant pipes and hoses NOTE: The procedure described in this section is for the removal of both coolant pipes. The pipes may be removed individually: simply omit the steps pertaining to the pipe that is not being removed.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 13h. Match-mark the two coolant pipes at the engine end of the system. Disconnect the to-radiator pipe by loosening the hose clamp using a 5/16” driver. 13m. Match-mark the return pipe for alignment in such a way that the pieces can be distinguished from the pieces of the to-radiator pipe. 13i. 13n. Use a compact tubing cutter, ratcheting tubing cutter, or a hacksaw to cut the to return pipe at this point. See Figure 8.89.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 13r. Connect the rear pieces of pipe to the appropriate hoses coming-off the engine: The to-radiator pipe connects to the hose from the thermostat housing. The return pipe connects to the hose from the water pump. NOTE: Pipe positioning: The to-radiator pipe is high and outside of the return pipe at the rear of the vehicle. It bendsdown under the passenger’s seat, crossing-over the return pipe.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems FUEL SYSTEM: DESCRIPTION 3. CAUTION: Diesel fuel is extremely flammable. Use common sense when working around the fuel system: Fuel line: 3a. The fuel line leads from a fitting atop the fuel tank to the fuel filter. See Figure 8.94. • Do not work on any part of the fuel system or fill the vehicle with fuel while the engine is running or hot.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 5. The fuel pump feeds the injector pump mounted on the side of the engine. See Figure 8.96. 7a. Tilt-up the load bed 7b. Remove the 3 screws that hold the fender to the splash shield using a 5/16” wrench. See Figure 8.98. Mounting screws Injector pump Line from fuel pump Right rear fender Figure 8.96 • Some fuel that bleeds out of the injectors is returned from the bleed rail to the injector pump feed line.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 7d. Remove the fender: See Figure 8.100. 9. Pull 8a. The fuel level sending unit, forward of the others. 8b. The fuel pick-up for the engine (brass fitting) is mounted out-board. 8c. The fuel return from the injector pump is mounted furthest in-board. 8d. The fuel tank vent, with no line connected to it (plastic fitting) is mounted between the fuel pick-up and the fuel return. To remove the fuel tank: See Figure 8.102. Fuel pick-up Figure 8.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 10. 12. Un-bolt the fuel filter and bracket from the frame using a pair of 7/16” wrenches, and move the fuel filter assembly out of the way. See Figure 8.103. Lift the fuel tank hold-down wire up, and pivot the front of the tank inward. See Figure 8.105. pivot out Fuel filter bracket Then pull back Figure 8.105 Figure 8.103 11. Remove the two screws that fasten the fuel tank hold-down wire to the frame. See Figure 8.104. 13.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 16. Vent fitting See Figure 8.107. 18. Fuel level sender: See Figure 8.109. Figure 8.107 • The vent fitting regulates the amount of vapor that escapes. It also allows air to enter the fuel tank to take up room in the tank as the fuel is used. • The fitting consists of a plastic chamber that contains a regulating orifice. • For installation: install the bushing first, lubricate the fitting with diesel fuel, and install it in the bushing. 17.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 20. ADJUSTMENTS: ENGINE SPEED AND THROTTLE LINKAGE Return-line fitting See Figure 8.111. 1. The engine should idle at 1,200 RPM: See Figure 8.112. Photo-tach: suitable for use on the driving element Figure 8.111 • • This is a simple elbow with no orifices or regulation. Figure 8.112 For installation: install the bushing first, lubricate the fitting with diesel fuel, and install it in the bushing.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems NOTE: A photo tachometer can be used on the driving clutch element, which is connected directly to the engine crankshaft. A photo tachometer used on the driven clutch element will not register correct engine RPM. 3. NOTE: The governor feature is built into the fuel injector pump.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 8. Final Throttle Cable Adjustment: Confirm that the cable is securely clamped in place at the engine end. The return spring should not bind or be pulled off-center. See Figure 8.115. Return spring 10. To get full travel, adjust the pedal end of the cable so that the eyelet on the cable core just rests against the socket head cap screw that passes through it. There should be 1/8” to 1/4” travel before tension is felt on the cable. 11.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 14. Tighten the cable clamp screw. ENGINE PERFORMANCE ISSUES 15. Release and depress the throttle pedal fully: 1. If the over-temp light on the panel, or oil pressure light on the instrument cluster come-on, and the cause cannot be found or eliminated using non-intrusive means, contact the partnering Caterpillar dealer. 2.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems • ENGINE REMOVAL The cylinder or cylinders having poor combustion can be identified by checking the temperature of the individual exhaust runners using a non-contact thermometer. • Look primarily for evenness of temperatures between the exhaust runners. • If a mis-firing cylinder is identified, contact the partnering Caterpillar dealer. 6.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 4. Remove the right rear fender and splash shield, as described in the water pump and alternator belt section of this chapter. 5. Disconnect the differential lock control cable at the differential end, and move it out of the way. See Figure 8.121. 6. Drain the coolant from the engine and coolant pipes as describe in the Draining and Filling Coolant section of this chapter. See Figure 8.123. Figure 8.123 7. Figure 8.121 5a.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 8. 10. Unplug the main connection between the engine harness and the main harness. See Figure 8.125. Unbolt and remove the exhaust system heat shield using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 8.127. Heat shields Bed locators / bump stops Main harness Engine harness Figure 8.127 Figure 8.125 9. Disconnect the heavy gauge red cable from the starter using a 12mm wrench. See Figure 8.126. The heat shield shares mounting bolts with the bed locators / bump stops.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 12. Remove the exhaust system, complete. See Figure 8.129. Unbolt here • Remove the hoses and rigid pipe that connect the thermostat housing to the to-radiator pipe. • Remove the hose that connects the return pipe to the water pump. • Inspect the hoses and clamps. If the hoses are cracking, softening, or swelling, replace them with new ones and thoroughly inspect the hoses that connect the coolant pipes to the radiator.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 16. Disconnect the air intake hose. See Figure 8.133. 18. Remove the 3 screws that hold the tapered shaft adaptor to the flywheel using a 16mm wrench, and remove the adaptor. 19. Remove the 5 sets of nut and bolts that hold the steel engine-to-transmission plate to the engine using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 8.135. Bolts Air intake hose Figure 8.133 Engine-totransmission plate 16a.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 20. Disconnect the transfer case harness from the neutral switches on the transfer case. Move the wires out of the way. 21. Lift and safely support the vehicle as described in the LIFTING AND SUPPORTING section of this manual. 22. 22d. Remove all but 2 of the screws. The screws left in place should be at opposite ends of the 2 rows of screws. See Figure 8.139. Loosen, but do not remove until ready to lift Remove the engine from the vehicle: 22a.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 24a. Contact the partnering Caterpillar dealer for major engine repair or a service replacement engine. 24b. Transfer all of the ancillary components from the removed engine to the replacement engine. 24c. Prior to engine installation, check the replacement (or repaired) engine for any fit or service issues that need to be addressed. 24d.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems Item ft-lbs ENGINE AND TRANSFER CASE TRAY N-m Engine to tray & Engine to bracket 32-36 43-49 Engine bracket to tray 13 18 Engine / Transmission plate to engine plate 13* 18* Engine / Transmission Plate to transfer case 12* 16* Tapered-shaft adaptor to flywheel 32-36** 43-49** Driving element to engine adaptor 32-36** 43-49** Driven element to transfer case input shaft 70-80** 95109** Exhaust screws 13 18 NOTE: Because of clearan
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 2. 1d. Examine the rear-center mount with the jacking-load released. 1e. If the rear-center mount is pulled substantially downward on the tray side, it should probably be replaced. 1f. If the rear-center mount needs to be replaced, it is very likely to be a victim part of other worn mounts. All five mounts are identical, and a strong case can be made for replacing all five mounts. 2c.
Chapter 8 - Caterpillar Engine and Related Systems 3. Replacing a corner mount: 3a. 3b. 3e. Reverse the removal procedure to install the mount. Loosen the center bolt on each of the four corner mounts using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. Remove the center bolt from the rear-center mount using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 8.146. Figure 8.147 3c. Unbolt the mount from the frame using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. 3d.
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Chapter 9 - Electrical CHAPTER 9 - ELECTRICAL ABOUT THIS CHAPTER COMPONENTS This chapter is divided into four sections: 1. Fuse and Relay Center, Kohler Gas Engine: • Section 1: About this chapter and Precautions • • Section 2: Components This section will describe the location and operation of the electrical components on the vehicle. Where appropriate, some disassembly or component removal instructions will be included. Location: Open the hood to reach the fuse and relay center.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • 2. Fuse and Relay Center, Caterpillar diesel engine • Location: Open the hood to reach the fuse and relay center. It is mounted on the firewall, immediately forward of the steering column. • There are three positions in the relay center. The fuses and relays for standard equipment occupy position three, the most inboard position. See Figure 9.2.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 3. Additional Fuses and Relays at Center Position One: 4. Additional Fuses and Relays at Relay Center Position Two: • Location: Open the hood to reach the fuse and relay center. It is mounted on the firewall, immediately forward of the steering column. • Location: Open the hood to reach the fuse and relay center. It is mounted on the firewall, immediately forward of the steering column. • There are three positions in the relay center.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 5. Additional Relays for Glow Plugs (Caterpillar) • There are two relays that operate the glow plugs on the Caterpillar diesel powered vehicles: a glow plug timer relay, and a glow plug relay. • The glow plug timer relay is mounted just inboard of the driver’s side hood and dash support bracket. • The part number for the glow plug timer relay is not listed in the Illustrated Parts List, but it may be ordered as Cub Cadet part number 725-04218. See Figure 9.5.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 7. Relay Function • Most of the relays used on this vehicle have five pins. See Figure 9.7. • Terminal 5 is the “Normally Open” terminal. It connects to terminal 3 when the relay is energized. When 3 & 4 are connected, 3 & 5 are disconnected, and vice-versa. An Ohm meter should show zero resistance, or “0.0Ω” between 3 & 4 when the relay is at rest, and it should read 1.0Ω or “O.L.” when the relay is energized. 8.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 9. Terminal Continuity Key Position STOP M - G - A1 Run w/ Lights B - A1 Run B - A1 Start B - S - A1 Safety Switches 9a. L - A2 • The transmission switches are located in a separate sub harness that consists of a simple loop connecting the two switches in series. The orange and grey wires of the transmission harness can be found just outboard of the front edge of the transfer case. See Figure 9.9.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • If there is continuity through the circuit when the transfer case is in gear the problem must be identified and repaired to prevent the engine from being started when the vehicle is in gear. See Figure 9.10. • To identify the switch that is failing to break the circuit when the vehicle is in gear, engage the gears one at a time. • If the continuity does not change when “L” is selected, then the problem is in the switch that is mounted closer to the top of the transfer case.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 10. • The Starter motor on the Kohler engine is located on the outboard side of the engine block. The starter solenoid is part of the starter. See Figure 9.12. The Alternator feeds A.C. power out-put to the regulator/rectifier that is attached to the inboard side of the cooling fan shroud. See Figure 9.14. Purple wire: regulated 12V.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • The connector is most easily reached by removing the right rear wheel and the splash shield behind the right rear wheel. • The wires are as described in the following table: Wire in main harness Wire in engine harness Red Blue wire and red wire Starter solenoid trigger wire Yellow Green Oil pressure sender Red with black trace White Magneto ground Orange Red wire and purple wire Current to charge battery and power accessories 15. Function Figure 9.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • The engine harness contains wires for the circuits listed in the table below: Wire in main harness Wire in engine harness Orange / white trace Orange / white trace Starter solenoid trigger wire Green Green Ground Black Black Oil sender Purple Purple Glow plug relay windings Orange Orange Fuel solenoid White / black trace White / black trace Over temp sensor Yellow Yellow Glow plugs / light 17.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 18. The Fuel Shut-off solenoid for the Caterpillar engine is mounted on the front of the injector pump, on the inboard side of the engine. See Figure 9.20. 19. Injector pump Solenoid connection The 4x4 Activation switch contains a simple open-or closed set of contacts. The switch is easily removed from the dash panel by unplugging the electrical connector and squeezing the tabs on the narrow sides of the switch. See Figure 9.21.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • When power is applied from the engagement switch, the clutch engages without any noise or perceivable motion. • Once engaged, the front drive shaft is linked to the pinion shaft, driving one front wheel. There is also an over-running clutch within the differential that will drive the second front wheel if the first one begins to slip. • • 21.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • The oil pressure sensor on the Caterpillar engine is located on the inboard side of the block, between the oil filter and the injector pump. See Figure 9.25. 21b. The Fuel light is Illuminated when a float in the fuel tank sinks far enough to close a set of contacts. See Figure 9.27. Fuel level (float) sender Purple wire to light Green wire to ground Oil pressure sender Figure 9.27 Figure 9.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • If the key is left in the RUN position, the meter will continue to count-off hours and tenth-hours until it is turned-off or the battery goes flat. • An hour-glass symbol flashes at the left end of the display while the hour meter is counting 21f. 21d. The Battery light illuminates whenever the hour meter senses that system voltage has fallen below 12V. This generally indicates a failure in the charging system. See Figure 9.29.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • The black wire with white trace leads to the overtemp sensor on the engine water pump. When the coolant temperature exceeds 230 deg.f. (110 deg.c.) the contacts within the switch close, creating a path to ground. See Figure 9.32. Green wire to ground 23. Over-temp sensor The Cooling fan (diesel only) is mounted under the hood, atop the radiator. It is wired to blow cool air down through the radiator core. See Figure 9.34. Cooling fan plug Bk/W wire to light Figure 9.
Chapter 9 - Electrical Fan Switch, continued • • Take steps to minimize coolant loss if the switch is removed. Refill and purge the coolant system after a fan switch is replaced. Refer to the CATERPILLAR ENGINE AND RELATED SYSTEMS chapter of this manual for more complete instructions. The fan switch receives power through the windings of the fan relay via the black wire with white trace (R4, spade #2). • When the coolant temperature in the radiator reaches 176.8 deg.f. (80.4 deg.c.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 26. The 12V. Power Outlet is located directly below the Warning Light Cluster / Hour Meter in the dash panel. See Figure 9.38. • The accessory harness plug itself is located near the fuse and relay center. It is the connection point for the accessory harness. See Figure 9.39. Orange Yellow Purple Red Black Wing nut 12V. Power outlet Accessory harness plug Figure 9.38 Figure 9.39 • The outlet is secured to the dash by a wingnut on the opposite side of the panel.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • • The rear accessory harness wires terminate under the bed, near the bumper on the passenger side upper frame channel. See Figure 9.41. The battery is secured by a metal strap and two 5/16” screws. They can be removed using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 9.43. Rear accessory harness plug Figure 9.41 Figure 9.43 28. The Battery is located under the parcel bin, beneath the driver’s seat. • Release the camloc fasteners and remove the parcel bin to reach the battery. See Figure 9.
Chapter 9 - Electrical Outputs can include power to run an electric PTO clutch, a trigger signal to a starter solenoid, or the grounding of a magneto to turn-off an engine if an unsafe condition exists. ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS With a basic understanding of the behavior of electricity and the tools used to measure that behavior, a technician can be about 80% effective at finding electrical problems.
Chapter 9 - Electrical Electrical environment: AC Vs. DC Most modern outdoor power equipment that has an electrical system complex enough to require diagnosis will be equipped with an alternator that produces alternating current (AC). In most systems, this current is immediately rectified to direct current (DC), and regulated to a nominal 12 Volts. The presence of AC is very limited.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 5. Kirchhoff’s current law: 6. Kirchhoff’s voltage law: • Kirchhoff’s current law deals with nodes. Nodes are the junction of two or more wires or the junction of a wire to a component. • • Kirchhoff’s current law states that what ever current goes into a node must come out. • As an example: Three wires are connected with a wire nut. One wire has 5 amps going into the connection. The sum of the current coming out of the other two wires must equal 5 amps.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 7. Types of circuits How the system is wired together There are three ways a circuit can be wired: The Rules: All circuits have some basic rules that must be followed: 7a. 7b. All circuits must have at least one voltage source. It is could be a battery, an altenator or both. • Series • Parallel • Series/parallel Series All circuits must have a load. A circuit without a load the same as shorting out the power source.
Chapter 9 - Electrical Series/parallel • Increased resistance Series/parallel circuits have some sections wired in series and some in parallel. See Figure 9.49. • Increased resistance is as the name implies, an increase in resistance. • Causes: This can be caused by loose or corroded connections, or connections that are insulated by grease, paint, or coatings. Fasteners finished in oil/phosphate or black oxide are bad conductors. Use bright fasteners (zinc coated).
Chapter 9 - Electrical Amperage: Most DVOMs have a very limited capacity to test amperage (2-3 Amperes). When measuring current flow, the meter must be connected in series with the component to be measured. That means opening the circuit and having the circuit go through the meter. Digital Volt Ohm Meter • A DVOM is the most useful tool to trouble-shoot any electrical system. There is an amazing variety of DVOMs on the market.
Chapter 9 - Electrical Wiring diagram or schematic • • A wiring or a schematic diagram, and the ability to read it are very important in troubleshooting a circuit. The diagram shows how the circuit was designed and what paths the electricity is suppose to flow. Self-powered continuity lights • Continuity lights can indicate whether a circuit is complete or not, but they give no indication of resistance.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • Ammeters and specialized charging system testers • Inductive ammeters are available in many forms. Some are as simple as a gauge to be held against the circuit in question when it is energized. See Figure 9.53. Usage of the DC Shunt tool is detailed in the 1995 and 1999 editions of their Update Seminar materials. NOTE: The operating principle is based on Ohm’s Law, as described earlier in this section.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 1. First check the raw A.C. Voltage out-put from the stator. It will be necessary to compare it to the engine manufacturer’s specified out-put. This varies from model to model. See Figure 9.56. 2. Raw stator out-put @3,600 RPM If raw out-put of the running Kohler alternator is less than 28 volts, check the stator. 2a. With the engine stopped, unplug the stator lead from the voltage regulator / rectifier. 2b. Check the stator for resistance across the leads.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 3f. With the engine off, connect Kohler tool #25 7651-20 to the regulator/rectifier: The two black leads go to the terminals normally connected to purple stator leads. The red lead goes to the center terminal (B+). The ground clip goes to ground. NOTE: If there is an intermittent charging system problem, perform these tests when the engine is cold, and again when the engine is hot. 3g. Plug the tester into a 110V AC outlet, turn it ON and push the test button until it clicks.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 4d. With the engine running at 2,000 RPM, energize the load tester to draw amperage from the system. 4e. Read the amperage on the meter. 4f. If the output is less than 25 amps @2,000 RPM, test the regulator / rectifier: See Figure 9.61. Batteries 1. Precautions: See Figure 9.62. CAUTION: Batteries produce flammable and explosive gas, particularly during charging: Precautionary battery label Figure 9.62 Figure 9.61 NOTE: Output varies with load.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • • • • Some charging systems do not work if the system voltage falls below 6V. It takes a certain amount of voltage to excite the fields in the alternator. Some solid-state components will not work if the system voltage falls below a given threshold. 3. Charging the battery: • Visual inspection • Electrolyte test • Operational test • Many electric PTO clutches will fail to work dependably if battery needs to be replaced.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 6c. Squeeze the bulb on the hydrometer, then insert the hose into the cell. 6d. Release the bulb, drawing electrolyte into the hydrometer to the fill line. Battery Testers: There are four major ways to check a battery: IMPORTANT: Hold the hydrometer straight up and down when drawing up the electrolyte. The float needs to float free, not rubbing against the sides of the hydrometer. 6e. Write down the specific gravity of each cell. 6f.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 2. Fixed load testing Fixed load testers (sometimes called toasters) are inexpensive load testers found at any auto parts store. See Figure 9.65. NOTE: CCA stands for cold cranking amps. The rating should be on the battery for aftermarket batteries. For OEM batteries, contact the manufacturer for the CCA rating. Most riding mower batteries are 200-275 CCA. The Cub Cadet 4X4 has a nominal CCA of 500. See Figure 9.64. OEM batteries do not list the CCA’s Figure 9.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 3. Capacitance testing 4. There are several brands of capacitance battery tester presently on the market. Capacitance battery testers use the battery being tested as their power source. These testers send a small AC signal through the battery to measure the capacity of the plate to hold a charge. Occasionally a battery will discharge while sitting unused.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 5. 6. 4e. If the battery is being checked independently of the equipment it powers, measure and note the battery voltage while it is disconnected, over a three-day period. 6c. Take a methodical approach to finding the problem. As a rule of thumb, start at one end of the circuit and work to the other. 4f. There should be less than a .2 volt drop in the readings. If there is more than a .2 volt drop, the battery is bad. 6d.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 7a. Starting with a fully charged battery and battery cable connections that are clean and tight, measure the battery voltage. See Figure 9.69. Voltage Drop Test To review: • Ohm’s law states that it takes voltage to push current through a resistance. • Kirchhoff’s voltage law states that the sum of all the voltage drops equals the source voltage. • Combining those two laws, we see that any restriction in a circuit (e.g.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • 9d. The voltage that shows-up on the meter is the voltage that is being used to pass current through a resistance in the circuit. 9e. Voltage drop on a good circuit should be less than 0.1 volts. A voltage drop reading on the meter of greater than 0.2 volts indicates a fairly substantial problem that demands attention. 9f. A similar ground-side test on a tractor with a slow-cranking starter motor can be conducted between the engine block and the negative battery post.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 10. • Applying this principle to the positive side of the system: See Figure 9.73. As an example, if the tractor had a slow-turning starter, the ground-side voltage drop measured below 0.1 volts, and there was not a parasitic load on the engine (e.g. PTO clutch that is not fully disengaged), it would be logical for the technician to check voltage drop to the starter. See Figure 9.74. Figure 9.
Chapter 9 - Electrical 11. Testing switches: • Refer to the “COMPONENTS” section of this chapter that describes the function of the individual switches to be tested. • Switches can be tested “hot” by looking for voltage at the appropriate posts. This is not definitive, since the source of the voltage is not always confirmed. Checking for voltage does not work on switches that work by providing a ground path to the magneto primary windings or a solid state control device.
Chapter 9 - Electrical • Which way does this electrical check-valve work?: There will be a band on one end of the diode. The band indicates the negative side of the diode • Most DVOMs have the ability to test a diode. 13. Testing a diode: 13f. Switch the leads. 13g. The meter should indicate no continuity. See Figure 9.79. No continuity Silver band 13a. Isolate the diode in the circuit. 13b. Set the DVOM to the diode or Ω scale. See Figure 9.77. (-) (+) Figure 9.79 13h. Diode scale Figure 9.
Chapter 9 - Electrical Electrical Schematic: Main Wiring Harness w/Kohler engine 725-04351 / 725-04365 314
Chapter 9 - Electrical Electrical Schematic: Engine Harness w/Kohler engine 315
Chapter 9 - Electrical Electrical Schematic: Main Harness w/Caterpillar engine 725-04327 / 725-04365 316
Chapter 9 - Electrical Electrical Schematic: Engine Harness w/Caterpillar engine 725-04341 317
Chapter 9 - Electrical 318
Front Drive System Differential Gearcase P/N 6203-01-280 Parts and Service Manual Rev.
Basic Operation: The Hilliard Front Drive System (Differential) is an electro-mechanically-activated bi-directional overrunning clutch. When 12 volts of power is sent to the 4WD switch, the unit is activated to engage both front wheels instantaneously, whenever the rear wheels loose traction. The clutch also releases or overruns automatically the instant the rear wheels regain traction. Because torque is transmitted to both front wheels, it is a “true” 4WD.
Troubleshooting: Problem: 4WD will not engage 1. Check the minimum battery voltage going to the CFD Gearcase. The voltage should not read below 11 volts for the unit to operate properly. If the voltage is at or above 11 volts, continue on to step #2. 2. Check the resistance of the coil harness on the large output cover. This can be achieved by attaching a multi-meter to the (2) terminal pins (part #30 on the exploded view drawing located on page #5). The resistance should be 24.7 to 27.
flat surface or granite block and making sure the plate does not rock. If the armature plate wear is consistent and the plate is flat, continue on to step #2. 2. Clean and inspect the internal clutch components. Slowly remove the roll cage (part #22) from the clutch housing/ring gear (part #20). Using a clean, dry, lint-free cloth, clean the (14) clutch rollers (part #27), the (2) race/output hubs (parts #25 & #26), and the internal profile in the clutch housing/ring gear (part #20).
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