Operating instructions
ROUTER
BIT NO.
*These bits
Could be
used for
this cut
*26316
26315
26314
26312
Figure 12
You can make circular cuts in this r=tanner with any of
the cutter bits which will "plunge" or "end" cut.
If you wish, you can position the router carriage to the
right or left to make another cut to blend in with the
previous cut.,
ALWAYS BE SURE THE STOPS HAvE BEEN POSI-
TIONED AGAINST EACH SIDE OF THE ROUTER
CARRIAGE AND TIGHTENED BEFORE ATTEMPTING
TO MAKE CIRCULAR CUTS. FAILURE TO DO SO
COULD CAUSE YOU TO RUIN THE WORK PIECE° See
Fig 12 for typical beads, coves, and flats made on
the Router Crafter_
Fig. 21 through 31 show futl size drawings of various
style parts with coves, beads, etc, (These are on a
separate sheet and inside back cover)_
Sand the work piece with coarse sandpaper then
progressively with finer grit paper. You may turn the
work piece with the crank for initial sanding This
applies to all the various types of turning covered in
this manual.
ROPING (SPIRALING)
Among the many types of cutting which can be done
on .your Router Crafter is "roping" or "spiraling",
which is. rather unique.. Roping is the cutting of
spiraled beads around the work piece, so that the
piece looks somewhat like a rope° Spiraling is a
general term and refers to any form or shape of spirals
around the work piece. You can cut right hand and
_eft hand spirals _both on the same work piece if
you wish to produce a "pineapple" or diamond effect.
The drive spindle has 24 positions marked on it and
by means of the index pin, can be set to 24 equally
spaced positions; therefore, you can make your choice
of 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, or 24 equalfy spaced spirals
The portion of a piece which is to be roped or spiraled
should, of course, be rounded up prior to the spiraling,
and, in order to achieve best resu/ts, the work piece
should not be removed from the Router Crafter after
rounding up until the roping or spiraling has been
done.
For roping spirals either a craftsman No. 9_26324
(3/16" quarter round) or a 9. 26323 (9/32" point cutting
Ogee) bit should be used. Put the cutter bit in the
router and set the feed down screws so that the bit
will cut about 1/8" deep in the portion bf the work
piece which is to be cuL When the cutter bit _s _n
Cutting position, the axis of the bit should point
directly to the center of the work piece (Fig,, 11)o NOw
set the carriage stops which are on the rear bar in a
position which will only permit the carriage to move
as far to the right and to the left as you want it to,.
This serves to prevent accidental over travel and the
cutter hitting some other part of the work piece. It is
preferred that the carriage movement to the left
(toward the tail stock) be far enough to get the cutter
past the left stop° This is preferred because the actual
cutting of all spirals and ropes is done with the router
moving from the tail stock end toward the head stock
end _eft to right)_ NEVER SPIRAL CUT FROM R_GHT
TO LEFT--_ doing so would produce an inconsistent
cut.
At this point, be sure that the cabie drum is not
clamped to the head stock frame., if it is, unctamp it by
loosening the wing nut "A" (Fig 3),
The cable clamp "N" (Fig,. 5) must now be attached to
a steel "fug" which is permanently attached to the
cable. There is one lug on the top cable and one lug
on the bottom cabfeo Attaching the cable clamp to the
lug on the top cable will produce a left hand spiral,,
Attaching the cable lamp to the lug on the bottom
cable will produce a right hand spiral There is a
recess or "pocket" in the cable clamp under the flat
washer in which the lug will fit,. Place the lug in the
recess of the cable clamp, and with the lug under the
flat washer, tighten the cap screw with the hexagon
wrench until the washer clamps the tug to hold the
lug in the recess, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN _ JUST
TIGHT ENOUGH TO KEEP THE LUG FROM MOVING.