Operating instructions

Now,withtherouterliftedupslightlysothatthecutter
bit doesnottouchtheworkpiece,rotatethecrankin
the directionthat pullsthe router'towardthe head
stockuntilthecarriagecontactsthestopnearestthe
headstockend.Checkto besurethatthecutteris
nowat thepointat whichyouwantthemovementof
thecutterto stop.Withtherouterstillliftedupslightly
off the workpiece,reversethe crankdirectionand
returntheroutercarriagetothetailstockend.
Nowlet theroutercarriagefeedscrewpadsrest on
the front bar and turn the router on. Hold the router
handle with the left hand, and with the right hand,
turn the crank fairly slowly, but steadily, to pull the
router along the work piece toward the head stock. DO
NOT STOP TURNING THE CRANK WHILE THE
CUTTER BIT IS IN CONTACT WiTH THE WORK PIECE.
If for some reason you do not want to complete the
cut, lift the router up off the work piece and return the
router to the tail stock end.. Do not crank backward
with the cutter bit in contact with the work piece.. To
do so would cause an inconsistent spiral, thus ruining
the work piece°
After the first cut has been made, and the router has
been turned off and returned to the left end of the
work piece, notice what number the arrow on the
cable drum is pointing to (Fig 4)_ If you want eight
equal spaces around the work piece, pull the index
pin out and turn the drive spindle three numbers
(either direction) and push the index pin back in. This
has turned the work piece 1/8 of a turn and you are
now ready to make another spiral cut. if the original
depth of cut was not quite deep enough, you may
drop the cutter bit slightly by loosening the wing nuts
of the feed down screws, backing the feed screws off
slightly and retightening the wing nuts_
Make the second and remaining cuts in the same
manner as the first cut° The index positions are
numbered 1 through 24; therefore, for example, if you
want to make 8 equal spirals and the first cut was
made with the arrow pointing to number one, then the
other cuts should be made with the same arrow point-
ing to numbers, 4, 7, 10, 13, 16, 19 and 22° It is a good
practice to write down the number you start on and
nil the other numbers you must index the arrow to for
the correct number of equal spaces so that you don't
have to remember the original number you started
on--helps to prevent mistakes that could ruin the
work piece_
Figs. 21, 22, 25, 26, 30 and 31 are examples of ropes
and spirals..
DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD FROM THE ELEC-
TRICAL OUTLET BEFORE CHANGING CUTTER BITS
OR MAKING ADJUSTMENTS.
STRAIGHT BEADS AND FLUTES CUT LENGTHWISE
Cutting the straight, lengthwise, equally spaced beads
and flutes can be done very quickly. DISCONNECT
THE ROUTER POWER CORD FROM THE ELECTRICAL
OUTLET., Select the proper cutter bit for the shape of
cut you desire to make and install in the router coIlet.
The router is positioned on the router carriage so that
when the cutting depth is correct, the center Iine of
the cutter bit is pointed to the center of the work piece.
The depth of cut is set by positioning the down feed
screws "F" (Fig. 5). After positioning the down feed
screws, be sure to lock them in place by tightening the
wing nuts "G" (Fig,. 5). Of course, the router can be
adjusted up and down in its own base as is customary
with routers,
The carriage travel stops "H" (Fig. 5) should be set so
that the carriage, and thus the cutter bit, can only
move lengthwise in the area that is to be cut. This
serves to make consistent length of cuts and to
prevent accidentally moving the router carriage too far
and cutting into a portion of the work piece you don't
want cuL Turn the cable drum until the spring in the
cable is at the extreme left toward the tail stock as far
as it will go,.
The cable drum "C" (Fig_ 4) should now be c_amped
to the head stock frame. This is done by holding socket
head screw "B" with the hexagon wrench provided
and tightening the wing nut "A" (Fig_ 3),. The wing nut
will feel a little hard to turn because it is a vibration
resistant type wing nut.. Do not over tighten _ just
enough that you can't turn the cable drum by hand_
The index pin "A" (Fig. 4) should be "in" , that is, the
knob should be touching, or very near to touching, the
back side of the cable drum. This Eocks the cable
drum to the drive spindle so that the drive spindle
will not rotate.
The first cut should be made with both hands on the
router feeding from left to right at a reasonably steady
spee& Do not stop in the middle of a cuL tf for some
reason it is necessary to stop, raise the router up so
that the cutter bit is not in contact with the work piece
before stopping the feed of the carriage, When the
carriage has been moved all the way to the "stop" at
the head stock, or right end, lift the router up slightly
off the work piece, return the router to the left end
stop and turn off the router_
Now the work piece should be indexed to the position
to make the second cut. Be sure that the cutter bit is
not touching the work piece If, for example, you want
twelve equally spaced cuts, pull the index pin back
and rotate the drive spindle two number-s and push
the index pin back in_ It is important that you note
what number is next to an arrow head on the cable
drum. It is best to write down the number and then
write down all the numbers you must locate at the
arrow head to make the remaining cuts. If the first cut
was made at number 24 position, for example, to get
the twelve equal spaces, you would also cut at posi-
tions 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 and 22.
ALWAYS REFER "TO THE SAME ARROW THAT WAS
REFERRED TO WHEN MAKING THE FIRST CUT.
(Fig. 4) ALWAYS BE SURE THE POWER CORD IS
DISCONNECTED BEFORE MAKING ADJUSTMENTS
AND CHANGING CUTTERS, ETC.
Fig. 23, 24 and 25 are examples of flutes cut length-
wise. Fig !3 shows shape of lengthwise beads of vari-
ous size work pieces with different numbers of equal
spaces.
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