Installation Guide

Table Of Contents

CONNECTING TO THE HOUSE WATER LINE

ELECTRIC SHOCK HAZARD

Attach tubing clamp using existing hole only. DO NOT drill into the

refrigerator.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Connect to potable water supply only. A cold water supply is required for

automatic ice maker operation. The water pressure must be between 21

and 121 psi (147-834 kilo-Pascals).

• A copper or approved flexible universal refrigerator tubing kit or ice-

maker install kit with 1/4" outer diameter to connect the refrigerator to

the water supply. If using copper, be sure both ends of the tubing are cut

square.

• A cold water supply. The water pressure must be between 21 and 121 psi

(147-834 kPa).

• Power drill.

• 1/2" or adjustable wrench.

• Straight and Phillips blade screwdriver.

• Two 1/4" outer diameter compression nuts and two ferrules

(sleeves) to connect the copper tubing to the shutoff valve

and the refrigerator water valve, OR you can find kits that

come with all parts included such as Stop Tee and

compressing fittings.

• If your existing copper water line has a flared fitting at the end, you will

need an adapter (available at plumbing supply stores) to connect the

water line to the refrigerator, OR you can cut off the flared fitting with a

tube cutter and then use a compression fitting.

• Shutoff valve to connect to the cold water line. The shutoff

valve should have a water inlet with a minimum inner

diameter of 5/32" at the point of connection to the cold

water line. Saddle-type shutoff valves are included in many

water supply kits. Before purchasing, make sure a saddle-

type valve complies with your local plumbing codes.

WARNING