Specifications

Symptom Probable Cause Corrective Action
Water at dish machine is not at
the proper temperature.
Gauge(s) not working properly. Check temperature of water with a
thermometer to be certain gauges are working
correctly. If not, replace gauge(s).
Thermostat set too low. Adjust or recalibrate, refer to “Thermostat
Adjustment” in the MAINTENANCE section. If
thermostat will not recalibrate properly,
replace it.
Booster heater has more than (5) linear feet
(1524 mm) of water pipe to the dish
machine, causing the water to cool off
inside the pipe.
If located farther than 5 linear feet (1524 mm),
pipes should be wrapped in insulation, and/or
a recirculating system installed.
Heating element(s) burn out. Tank inadvertently drained leaving
element(s) in a dry condition.
Replace element(s), and make sure tank is full
of water at all times. Check low water cut-off
system for proper operation.
Lime buildup in tank causing element(s) to
split and burn out.
Replace element(s), and clean or delime tanks
periodically. A water softener or blended
phosphate treatment system may be required.
Relief valve dribbles. No pressure reducing valve installed or
incorrect valve installed causing pressure
build-up inside booster tank.
A pressure reducing valve with high pressure
bypass must be installed in the incoming water
line to allow water to expand back into the
feed line.
Bypass in pressure reducing valve may be
blocked.
Clean bypass or replace with new valve with
built in bypass.
Check valve or anti-siphon valve installed in
the feed line.
Remove check valve or anti-siphon valve to
allow for water expansion or install a back
pressure relief valve (P/N 03.02.039.00) on
the incoming water line.
Relief valve opens. Unit is overheating. Thermostat may be set too high or is sticking.
Recalibrate or replace the thermostat.
Contactor may be sticking in closed
position not allowing unit to cycle off.
Replace contactor(s).
High temperature limit safety
switch trips.
Temperature limit safety switch is defective. If booster heater is not overheating, replace
High Limit Safety Switch.
Thermostat set too high. Adjust or recalibrate, refer to “Thermostat
Adjustment” in the MAINTENANCE section.
Incoming water temperature too high
causing nuisance tripping of high
temperature limit switch.
Incoming water temperature should not be
higher than 160°F (71°C).
Chattering contactor or low
water cutoff circuit board
Loose connections or wire connection has
insulation under crimp.
Tighten all connections and check crimps
Low voltage. Check control circuit voltage or secondary
voltage with transformer.
Probe may be fouled. Bypass probe by removing wire from low
water cutoff probe and grounding to tank.
Clean or replace probe if chattering stops.
Contactor(s) may be bad. Test contactor coils and replace if needed.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Form No. EBOOSTERM-0712
29