37” WOODLATHE Model No. CWL12D Part No.
CONTENTS PAGE Lathe Specifications ................................................................................................... 3 General Safety Instructions ........................................................................................ 5 Wood Lathe Safety Instructions ................................................................................. 6 Electrical Connections and Motor Specifications ................................................... 7 Unpacking And Checking Contents .....
Thank you for purchasing this CLARKE 37” Wood lathe, designed for DIY and semi professional use. Before assembling this machine, please read this manual thoroughly and follow all instructions carefully. In doing so you will ensure the safety of yourself and that of others around you, and you can GUARANTEE This CLARKE product is guaranteed against faulty manufacture for a period of 12 months from the date of purchase. Please keep your receipt as it will be required as proof of purchase.
GENERAL SAFETY RULES FOR OPERATING MACHINERY WARNING As with all machinery, there are certain hazards involved with their operation and use. Exercising respect and caution will considerably lessen the risk of personal injury. However, if normal safety 1. contained. KNOW YOUR MACHINE. Read the manual carefully. Learn the machines applications and limitations, as well as the specific potential hazards peculiar to it. 2. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE and in working order. 3. EARTH ALL MACHINES.
ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR WOOD LATHES 1. IMPORTANT: You should not operate this machine unless you are thoroughly familiar with wood turning lathes and wood turning techniques. If there is any doubt whatsoever, you should consult a qualified person. mount the Centre with workpiece attached into headstock spindle. 2. Do not operate the machine until it is completely assembled, and this entire manual, has been read and understood. 10.
ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS Connect the mains lead to a standard 230 volt (50Hz) electrical supply using a 13 amp BS1363 plug fitted with a 13 amp fuse. or a suitably fused isolator switch. WARNING : THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE EARTHED.
UNPACKING AND CHECKING CONTENTS OF CARTON Your wood lathe is shipped complete in one carton. Separate all parts from packing materials and check against the lists below to ensure that all items are accounted for, before discarding any packing material. If any parts are missing or damaged in any way, please contact your Clarke dealer immediately. Fig. 1 A. Head stock assembly. B.
ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION Ref. Figs. 1 & 2 To carry out this alignment, first align the two keys by eye as close as possible. Next, using a metal straight edge against one side of the keys, slide the end of the straight edge across the joint first from one side of the joint and then from the opposite side. If there is a “click” or a hang-up of the straight edge at the joint, it will be obvious what relative direction the two halves of the bed will have to be rotated to achieve alignment.
If the bed is too loose however, the weight of the Tailstock and Tool rest base may cause the bed to rotate. In this event, nip `up the Bed Securing Set Screw (T, fig 10). Fig. 5 4.3 For additional rigidity of the motor and it’s mounting brackets, a 8mm hole must be drilled through the bench top using the hole in the hinge bracket (V, fig 10), as a pilot. It will be necessary to remove the four mounting bolts and moving the headstock slightly to facilitate the drilling of the hole.
5. ALIGNING THE CENTRES 6. REMOVAL OF SPUR CENTRE FROM SPINDLE 5.1 The spur centre and the revolving centre are used for spindle turning and should always be in alignment. To align centres refer to Fig. 7 and adjust as follows: To remove the spur centre from spindle, hold the spindle pulley with one hand whilst turning the spindle nut on the threaded portion of the spindle, with a spanner, anticlockwise until the centre is ejected. 5.
UNDERSTANDING YOUR LATHE LATHE PARTS, CONTROLS, NOMENCLATURE AND FUNCTIONS Become familiar with the nomenclature and purpose of the various operating controls and parts of your lathe. Please read and fully understand this manual before attempting to perform any operation. Fig. 10 J. HEX. NUT. Used for the removal of the Spur Centre. K. SPUR CENTRE. L. TOOL REST BRACKET LOCK. Clamps the tool rest bracket to the tool rest base. M. TOOL REST LOCK. Clamps the tool rest to the tool rest bracket. N.
SPINDLE SPEEDS A chart showing spindle speeds and recommended turning speeds is mounted on the pulley cover, and for convenience, is duplicated as follows: SPINDLE SPEEDS RECOMMENDED GENERAL SPEEDS SPINDLE TURNING SQUARE LENGTH ROUGHING FINISHING 1” (25mm) 12” (305mm) 1374 3260 2” (50mm) 18” (455mm) 838 2215 3” (75mm) 24” (610mm) 838 2215 4” (100mm) 30” (760mm) 475 2215 5” (125mm) 36” (915mm) 475 2215 FACE PLATE TURNING DIAMETER THICKNESS ROUGHING FINISHING 12” (305mm) 4” (100
PREPARATION 1. SPINDLE TURNING NOTE: If you use a ‘dead centre’ i.e not a rotating type, put a drop of oil or wax on the wood where it contacts the centre. This will lubricate the wood whilst it is turning. If you are not experienced at the art of wood turning, we suggest that you practice using the various wood turning tools, starting with turning a small spindle. 1.8 Place the wood between the centres and lock the tailstock. 1.1 Select a piece of wood 50x50x305mm. 1.
5.12 Check to ensure there are no spanners/ wrenches/pieces of wood or other debris in the area, and that your clothing is properly adjusted before pushing the ON button. 3. INDEXING Fig. 17 The procedure for cutting and the use of woodworking chisels is described under “Using Woodworking Chisels, starting on page 15. See also ‘Spindle Turning’ on page 24. 2. FACEPLATE TURNING Turning which cannot be worked through centres, must be mounted on a faceplate, or other work-holding device.
2.3 Pull out the index pin and slowly rotate the workpiece until the pin slides into the next hole in the pulley. 3. OUTBOARD TURNING This technique is used to do jobs that are too large to mount conventionally. It is straight forward faceplate turning except that because of the work size, extra caution must be taken and speeds must be restricted to minimums. 2.4 Do this six times and put the next mark on the workpiece. The two marks will be spaced 60° apart.
USING WOODWORKING CHISELS Fig. 20 THE SIX MOST COMMONLY USED CHISEL TYPES 1. SELECTION OF CHISELS Cutting is faster than scraping and produces a smoother finish which requires less sanding. However, it is far more difficult to master. Scraping, on the other hand, is far more precise and easier to control. Better chisels have handles approximately 10" (250mm) long, to provide plenty of grip and leverage. Sharp tools are essential for clean, easy work. Buy tools that will take and hold keen edges. 2.
Either a cutting or scraping action can be used when cutting at the circumference. The shaving is removed like a peeling from a potato. difficulty holding the chisel, then the improperly supported chisel will begin to bounce, or chatter, against the workpiece. Scraping only, is used when cutting at the diameter. The reason is obvious when you consider that faceplate turning always requires removal of wood across the grain.
2.4 How to Position Tool Rest for Circumference Scraping Fig. 26 In scraping operations, the tool rest position is not as critical as it is for cutting operations. The chisel generally is held horizontally, though it can be held at an angle to reach into tight places. Considering that the wire edge of the chisel does the scraping, sketches 9 and 10 show the results of too low or too high a position for the rest, and sketch 8 shows the chisel action with the rest correctly positioned. Fig.
bevel side down, keep the base of the bevel against the work. Good practice is to place the skew well over the work, pull it back until the edge begins to cut, then swing the handle into position to advance the cut. Both the toe and the heel of the skew can be used for taking light cuts, but do not penetrate the wood too deeply without cutting clearances, as there is danger of burning the tip of the tool.
10.2 9. USING WOOD RASPS AND FILES Finish Cutting Fig. 32 Finish cutting requires more control with less force and is better done with the palm of the tool rest hand turned up. The wrist is still held down, and the side of the index finger acts as a guide along the rest. In this position, control of the chisel is shared by both hands, the fingers of the tool rest hand being free to assist in positioning the tool. A wood rasp will remove stock quickly when held against the revolving workpiece.
MAKING STANDARD CUTS end can also be taken. Roughing-off generally is continued until the cylinder is approximately 3mm larger than the desired finished size. Roundness can be tested by laying the gouge on top of the work - it will not ride up and down when cylinder is perfectly round. 1. THE ROUGHING OFF-CUT Reducing a square or odd shaped workpiece down to a cylinder of approximate size for finish turning is called roughing-off.
heel of the skew into it along the surface of the outside area. Tilt the cutting edge with handle raised up, so that only the extreme heel does this cutting. If the shoulder is at the end of work, the process is called squaring the end. In this case, reduce outer portion to a diameter about 6mm larger than tool centre diameter, then later saw off the waste stock. 5.
MAKING STANDARD CUTS At this stage long cuts from the centre of either end can also be taken. Roughing-off generally is continued until the cylinder is approximately 3mm larger than the desired finished size. Roundness can be tested by laying the gouge on top of the work - it will not ride up and down when cylinder is perfectly round. 1. THE ROUGHING OFF-CUT Reducing a square or odd shaped workpiece down to a cylinder of approximate size for finish turning is called roughing-off.
heel of the skew into it along the surface of the outside area. Tilt the cutting edge with handle raised up, so that only the extreme heel does this cutting. If the shoulder is at the end of work, the process is called squaring the end. In this case, reduce outer portion to a diameter about 6mm larger than tool centre diameter, then later saw off the waste stock. 5.
Fig. 45 Now draw the skew straight back whilst raising the handle slowly, until the edge of the heel at the pencil line starts to cut. As the edge begins to cut, roll the skew in the direction of the vee, so that the exact portion of the edge, when started cutting, will travel in a 90° arc down to the bottom of the vee.
SPINDLE TURNINGS 1. PLOTTING THE SHAPE 2. DUPLICATE TURNINGS Once the basic cuts have been mastered, you are ready to turn out finished work. Identical turnings require great accuracy when plotting the work and doing the various cuts. Many methods have been devised to assist in perfecting the work. The first step is to prepare a plan for the proposed turning. This can be laid out on a suitable sheet of paper, and should be to full size. 2.
turning. The first finished turning can also be used as a template. Attach the template to a board, then mount the board behind the lathe on hinges, so that the template can be moved down to touch the workpiece and allow you to closely observe progress of your work. If a great many turnings are being produced, a diameter board will save the time used for resetting callipers.
MISCELLANEOUS OPERATIONS 1. GUIDE BLOCKS FOR SCRAPING OPERATIONS A guide block can be clamped to a chisel to limit the depth of cut and aid the production of perfect cylinders, tapers and facings on faceplate turnings. Scraping methods must be used when the guide block is employed. it in the headstock, using a 4-jaw (metal-lathe) chuck or a Jacobs chuck. When this method is employed, there is no accurate support for the workpiece so that centre drilling is difficult.
FACEPLATE & CHUCK TURNINGS 1. PLANNING THE WORK Fig. 55 Fig. 57 wood bit available. This can be accomplished as illustrated above, or in any of the ways shown on pages 18 & 19. Be careful to measure in advance the depth to which the drill can be allowed to go. Make a layout first, to provide a visual pattern to follow while working the turning. Patterns can be laid out in the same manner as spindle patterns, or templates can be made which can be held against the work for visual comparison.
FANCY FACEPLATE TURNINGS Fig. 59 After making a recess at least 1/2 the way through the workpiece, and finishing this on the inside, remove the workpiece from the lathe. Now mount a short length of soft wood stock on the screw centre and turn this down to form a dowel that will be a tight press (not driving) fit inside the recessed end of the cylinder. Mount the cylinder on this wooden chuck, and recess the unworked end deep enough to form a perfect hole through the entire cylinder. 1.
and mounted on this chuck. thus mounted, the remaining contours can be turned to shape. After being chucked the remaining face of the ring can be turned to the proper contour, thus cutting away the centre portion. Fig. 63 Work of this type take constant measurements, or better still, use a template to guard against over or under cutting. 5. TURNING BALLS Fig. 65 Wooden balls of large size are first roughly turned between centres, using standard procedures.
ball is constantly shifted, never more than 1/8 turn and always with a definite pattern. Since turning between centres makes the work a perfect sphere across the grain, the ball must be mounted in the chuck so that the first scraping cuts will round it up in the opposite direction . 6. TURNED BOXES Fig. 68 Fig. 67 6 or 8 pieces if desired.
TURNING PLASTICS 4. USE OF FORMED TOOLS FOR PRODUCTION BEADING AND SIMILAR OPERATIONS 1. TYPES OF PLASTICS There are two general groups of plastics. The first includes all phenol plastics moulded under heat and pressure. Bakelite and Formica are examples. In the second are all catalyst setting plastics of various bases sold under such trade names as Lucite, Catalin, Cast Bakelite, Marblette, Tenite and Trafford. Those in the second group are most generally used for craftwork.
SANDING, BUFFING AND POLISHING Fig. 73 The application of the sandpaper strip is shown in fig. 74. Care must be exercised in order to prevent dubbing the corners of beads, shoulders etc. It is good practice to finish sanding with the work in reverse rotation. This is particularly true when sanding basswood, white pine and mahogany. These woods are hard to sand clean since sanding packs the surface fuzz down to the wood.
glued or tacked in place, do satisfactory work. These have the advantage that special sizes, tapers etc., can be made. Quick acting chucks can be very useful for sanding operations on duplicate production parts. The chuck is made slightly oversized, and a piece of rubber hose (for small parts) is inserted in the recess to grip the workpieces. Workpieces can be changed without stopping the lathe. The drum is used mainly for sanding theFig. edges 76 Fig.77 of curved work.
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES A full range of optional accessories (detailed below) are available from your local dealer.
PARTS LIST ** See your CLARKE dealer No. Description Part No. No. Description Part No.
PARTS DIAGRAM 38
