User's Manual

XIII. Pimpin’ Your ‘Ride’:
There is very little one can do to either of these markers to improve their
performance. Both come with delrin bolts, polished and lightly sprung
internals, and a good pump kit. However, I have experimented with trying to
squeeze a little more performance out of both since I have owned them. I will
start with what is a waste of money and time and then move on to the few
modifications that seem to work.
What Not To Buy:
Regulator:
The regulator that comes with the CCM® is essentially a Torpedo® style
regulator. It is a tried and true design and I have had very few problems with
my CCM® regulators. I have used a CCM® regulator for over two years
without changing a seal and perform maintenance every few months as
described above.
Barrel:
I have found that the stock barrel is a very good and accurate barrel. It
comes stock with a 2” control bore at .690 Inner Diameter that opens up to
.695 at the tip. If you want to match paint and have a greater flexibility in a
barrel you may want to purchase additional backs for your CCM® marker.
The two inch control bore, in my opinion, may not be the most efficient but it is
accurate and very high quality.
A Low Pressure Tank:
I have used both 450 psi output tanks and 800 output tanks on my CCM®
markers for a few years and see no difference in performance. I rarely even
need to adjust my regulator to compensate for the slight difference in output
from the secondary regulator when switching from tank to tank. The CCM®
regulator is a 50 to 1 regulator and thus switching from a low pressure tank to
a high pressure tank will only result in an 8 psi output difference at the
secondary regulator. This will not make that much difference in FPS over the
chronograph.
Some may argue that your regulator will work much less hard by using a high
pressure tank – but I don’t think with a pump that really matters. With that
said, however, I do use a low pressure tank. This is simply because I already
had it when I bought my first CCM® .
Agitating Hopper: