The Unofficial Manual of the Chipley Custom Machine T2 Pump Marker V.
www.pumpenstein.com I. Table of Contents: I. T2 Marker Schematic a. Facing Left b. Facing Right Page 3 Page 3 II. Liability Page 4 III. Safety and Handling Page 5 IV. Quick Start Guide Page 6 V. A Brief Description… Page 7 VI. Velocity Page 10 VII. Setting up the CCM Marker Page 11 VIII. Additional Adjustments to the CCM Marker Page 13 IX. Regular Cleaning Page 16 X. Maintenance a. Tools Needed b. Grip Frame Disassembly and Maintenance c. Chassis Disassembly and Maintenance d.
II. The CCM® T2 (Facing Left) Control Bore Clamping Feed Neck Back Block Bolt Pin Barrel Auto Trigger Pump Regulator Grip Frame Undertravel Screw Regulator Adjustment ASA or Air Source Adaptor III.
IV. Liability: Pumpenstein has no affiliation with Chipley Custom Machine or Datum Precision Machining. Likewise, we have no affiliation with WGP or the Autococker®. We do not work for them, are not sponsored by them, represent them, or speak for them in any way. Pumpenstein or any of it’s members does not accept any liability for the handling of these markers, tools, air tanks, or any other item mentioned in this Unofficial manual.
V. Safety and Handling: A Paintball Marker is not a toy. Any of the tools in this manual are not toys. Tools and paintball markers should be used only by adults or with adult supervision. Respect other peoples’ property and when using any paintball marker, obey all local, state and federal laws. When entering a paintball field, become aware of their rules and regulations. It is very important to have the proper paintball protection before going to the paintball field for play.
VI. Quick Start Guide: 1. Screw barrel onto marker – if your CCM Marker does not come with a barrel – use a barrel with Autococker® threads. 2. Place barrel blocking ‘Barrel Bag’ device properly onto the marker CAUTION: Always wear paintball approved eye and face protection when dealing with a pressurized paintball marker. 3. Pull the back block back until it latches into place. You will hear a click when this happens. 4. Connect the air source to the ASA (air system adapter.
VII. A Brief Description of the workings of the T2. Note: This is a a cutaway of a CCM Series 5, a full block marker. The T2 works nearly the same way and seeing a cut away will help you understand what is happening inside your marker. The T2 is nearly identical to the Series 5 and 6 markers with the exception of being ‘half blocked’. This is the marker cocked with a ball in the chamber. When you pull the trigger a sear is lowered which releases a hammer (inside the bottom tube of the marker).
Marker being pumped – hammer and bolt traveling to the rear – ball ready to drop in breach. The ball is temporarily held in place by the ball detent installed in your T2 marker (It is hidden under to top tube and protrudes into the breach. When the hammer clears the sear, the sear will catch (with a click). Sear Engaged, Bolt moving forward ball entering the chamber. At this point, move the pump forward (away from the rear of the marker).
every time the pump is returned to the starting position. With practice, the user can fire his T2 over six balls per second with accuracy. The auto-trigger is simply a cam that does not allow the trigger to fire until the pumping cycle is complete. The cam, behind your trigger, is attached to the pump arm (via a lug). This allows for the proper timing of the autotrigger.
VIII. Velocity: CAUTION: Industry approved protective gear (for face and eyes) must be worn at all times while operating and performing adjustments on this marker. • Do not insert objects into the space between the cocking block and the main body of the marker at any point in time. Improper marker treatment may result in damage to the marker and serious injury to the operator.
IX. Setting up the CCM® Marker: If you have not played with your CCM® marker and have just pulled it out of the box – skip to #3 of this section. For those that have already been playing with their marker - start at #1. 1) Back out your regulator adjustment screw (3/16th) until the marker starts hissing down the barrel when you pull the trigger. Turn it up until this leak stops. Your marker will most likely be shooting about 230 - 250 FPS.
7) (Optional) If your regulator reached 300 fps before it plateued you could go to a weaker main spring and re do this procedure in order to have the most efficient marker. A heavier valve spring would accomplish the same thing. However, a weaker main spring would lighten your pump stroke. I find the CCM® main spring is VERY light and I do not adjust my springs. I have found that 300 PSI is a great place to start with CCM® markers.
X. Additional Adjustments to the CCM Marker: Sear / Lug: The lug height controls how far the trigger must be depressed in order to fire the marker. If this lug is set too high, the marker will not cock because the sear does not come into contact with the lug. If the lug is set too low – the marker will not cock or will not fire because the lug is dragging on the grip frame or the sear cannot drop far enough to release the hammer.
Turn the Allen key clockwise to lower the lug (allow the marker to fire with a longer trigger pull – or during auto trigger – later in the cycle) and to the anticlockwise to raise the lug (allow the marker to fire with a shorter trigger pull or during auto trigger - earlier in the cycle). Lug adjustment shown in cutaway. Lug is at its highest point. If the lug becomes to easy to turn with the Allen key it may vibrate loose and cause your timing to change.
Undertravel Screw: The undertravel screw (marked by the screwdriver in the picture below on a Series 6) is essentially only there to stop the Auto trigger and Cam from coming out of the grip frame. Pump the marker until you hear the sear ‘click’. Holding the pump in this position adjust the undertravel screw until it touches the trigger. This should set the undertravel screw to the proper position.
XI. Regular Cleaning. CAUTION: Always make sure you and everyone around you wears protection when you clean the marker or check it for paintballs. This is the cleaning I perform after every day of play. 1. Remove air source and ensure that all air has been released from the marker. 2. Remove the barrel. Spray a mix of rubbing alcohol, a little dish soap, and water down the barrel and run a pull through squeegee down it. Finish off with a swab. 3.
XII. Maintenance: From time to time, it may be necessary to clean or replace worn parts within the marker. For this, you will need to break down the marker further than the regular maintenance lists above. This section will be broken into subsections: The Grip Frame, the Chassis, and the regulator. I will assume the marker has been degassed, the barrel has been removed and the marker checked for residual air and paint. Be SAFE! Tools Needed: A full set of American Allen Keys.
2. Loosen the Frame Screws (2 1/8th Allen Screws are submerged in the frame) that attach the frame to the marker chassis. The screws are of two different lengths – ensure you replace these properly when reassembling (shorter screw in back). 3. Now that the frame screws are loosened you can slide the AT arm off the AT lug (attached to the pump arm with Loc-tite). This will take some practice – but I find that depressing the pump arm near the lug while finessing the frame and AT arm does the trick. 4.
6. 7. Sometimes you can simply rotate the AT arm to remove it - if it feels stuck you will most likely have to back out the undertravel screw (shown above). Carefully (the sear is under slight spring tension) remove the sear retention pin. Simply push out the pin using a punch or a small Allen key. 8. The Sear, Sear Pin, and Spring will come out. 9. Inspect the Sear to see if it has wear where the lug catches. (Notice the slight wear on this sear.
10. Remove the Trigger Shoulder Bolt and slide the trigger from the frame (shown with the top Allen key). Be sure not to over tighten the Trigger Shoulder Bolt. Over tightening can cause drag on the trigger. 11. Your trigger frame is now completely disassembled. Clean thoroughly and reassemble. Chassis Disassembly and Maintenance: 1. Remove the feedneck by unscrewing it from the Feedneck Mounting Adapter. 2.
3. Remove the Bolt Pin, and bolt. 4. Remove the back block by using the T-10 Torx screws on the back block. The back block is countersunk in two spots to allow the pump arms to slide into the back block. This can cause the back block to feel stuck. Be patient and carefully remove the back block. I find moving the pump forward puts even pressure on the back block and can help finesse the back block off the pump arms. Note: Be very careful when replacing these screws.
8. The VRA has one static o-ring – which I lightly lubricate (Dow 55)upon reassembly. 9. Remove the two screws that affix the top tube (breach) to the bottom tube. These are T10 Torx Screws. These are held on with blue loc-tite and should be replaced with blue Loctite. The Ball Detent will also come out at this point (shown here red).
10. Note the depth of the Lug before disassembly. You want to replicate this depth upon reassembly. It will make timing the marker much easier. This is a Series 5 – but the principle is the same. 11. Remove the Bottom Tube Cap with a ¼ Allen key. 12. Remove the IVG from the marker (3/16thth Allen Key) noting its depth from flush to the rear of the body. About 3 turns are normal. The main spring will also come out at this point.
13. Insert a 1/8th Allen key into the lug and turn it until it is flush with the hammer. This allows for the removal of the hammer. 14. Remove the Valve Retaining Screw and the Valve Retaining Nut Set Screw from the bottom of the marker. Cutaway view showing removal of Valve Retaining Nut Screw. Cutaway view showing removal Valve Retaining Nut Set Screw. 15. Insert an Autococker® Valve Tool into the rear of the bottom tube until you feel it seat deeply on the Valve Retaining Nut and remove it.
CCM® uses a Valve Retaining Nut Set Screw; the Valve Retaining Nut is often marred. This can make this nut a bit stiff to remove. Take your time, make sure the tool is seated as deeply as it can be, and be careful. Cutaway showing Valve Wrench fully engaged in Valve Retaining Nut. Cutaway showing Valve Wrench removing Valve Retaining Nut. 16. Carefully dump out the Valve, Valve Seal, and Valve Spring. Sometimes a few taps on a soft surface are necessary.
The good news and a great innovation by CCM is that the Valve Seal is replaceable without scrapping the whole Valve Pin Assembly. An N70011 O-ring is used to repair a leak. Simply take apart the valve body from the valve top hat (or base) carefully (it is held together with blue Loc-tite) and snap on the O-Ring. Screw the pieces back together, using Loc-tite again, and you are ready for the field. 18. Clean these parts completely and reassemble.
Regulator Disassembly and Maintenance: Assembled Regulator (CCM® has had various models of this regulator – the internals have not changed significantly.) Disassembled Regulator th (From Right: to Left: 3/16 Adjustment Screw, Regulator Housing Bottom, Regulator Spring Seat, Spring, Regulator Piston and O-Ring, Poppet Nut, Poppet Seat, Poppet Pin, Poppet Spring, Regulator Housing Top, O-Ring.) 1. Unscrew the halves of the regulator.
2. Use a 5/16th Allen Key to remove the Regulator Pin Retainer. 3. Carefully dump out the rest of the pieces from the top of the regulator.
4. Clean (use your Q-tips® in all the appropriate places on the regulator top) and replace the regulator Pin O-Ring if necessary. Apply a light coat of oil to these parts and replace them. 5. Take the Velocity Adjustment Screw out of the bottom and push the Top Hat, Spring, and Piston from the top with a long Allen Key. 6. Clean the bottom portion and replace the Regulator piston or Regulator Piston O-Ring if necessary. 7. CCM® packs the lower portion Hater Sauce.
XIII. Pimpin’ Your ‘Ride’: There is very little one can do to either of these markers to improve their performance. Both come with delrin bolts, polished and lightly sprung internals, and a good pump kit. However, I have experimented with trying to squeeze a little more performance out of both since I have owned them. I will start with what is a waste of money and time and then move on to the few modifications that seem to work.
I have found that the fastest any pump with an auto trigger can be fired tops out at about 7 balls per second. Due to the rocking motion inherent in the pumping process, a good feeding gravity hopper will work just fine. I have had no issues with a VL 200, an Empire® Hopper, or even an Ammo Box during high rates of fire. I currently use a modified Sportshot Hopper that feeds great at about 6 to 7 bps that I can achieve in rapid fire. I find that an agitating loader simply adds weight and is unnecessary.
XIV. Troubleshooting: My velocity is very erratic. This is most often caused by inconsistent paint sizing. See if your paint fits your barrel well and consistently. If not, try better paint. I have good paint and my velocity is still erratic. Clean your regulator. If this still is happening – replace the seals inside the regulator. I have good paint, my regulator is working fine, and my velocity is still erratic. Clean the bottom tube and hammer.
Marker leaks down the barrel no matter what I do. This is probably caused by a bad Valve Seal (Cup Seal). Replace this part. Sometimes you can get this leak to stop by running oil through the marker. Try this first and then replace the Valve Seal. I took off the grip frame and now the marker won’t even pump to the cocking point. You have the screws that hold the frame on the marker reversed and the rear screw is protruding into the bottom tube of the marker and stopping the hammer from re-cocking.
The marker does not fire when I am using the auto-trigger or skips shots. Lower the lug. Follow the setup procedures. If this does not solve the problem, it could be a worn sear. Replace the sear. Trigger is very sticky. Check to see that you have not over tightened the Shoulder Bolt that retains the trigger. This can cause drag on the trigger against the frame. In addition, this can be caused by simply having a dirty trigger frame. I seem to lose velocity during higher rates of fire (Auto-Triggering).
XV.
Pump Kit Guide Screw O-Ring Buna-N McMaster 6061 Aluminum Delrin DPM DPM N70-015 Grip Frame from the Trigger Guard. .
Clamp Ring Screw Mounting Adapter Rail and ASA: Rail Mounting Screws Rail Spreading Screws Side Port Plug Screw Knob O-ring On-Off Body On-Off Shaft O-Ring XVI. Stainless Steel 6061 Aluminum Fastenal DPM 6061 Aluminum Stainless Steel Stainless Steel Zinc Plated DPM Fastenal Fastenal McMaster O-Rings West Buna-N 6061 Aluminum Buna-N 10-32x1/2 SCS 10-32 x 1/2 SCHMS 1/4 - 28 x 5/8 SSCP 1/8 pipe plug McMaster N90-015 N70-008 Contact Information for CCM: CCM / DPM 19641 N.
