The Unofficial Manual of the Chipley Custom Machine Series 5 Basic and the Series 6 Pump Markers V 1.4 www.pumpenstein.
I. I. Table of Contents: Series 6 Marker Schematic a. Facing Left b. Facing Right Page 3 Page 3 Series 5 Basic Marker Schematic a. Facing Left b. Facing Right Page 4 Page 4 III. Liability Page 5 IV. Safety and Handling Page 6 V. Quick Start Guide Page 7 VI. A Brief Description… Page 8 VII. Velocity Page 11 VIII. Setting up the CCM Marker Page 12 IX. Additional Adjustments to the CCM Marker Page 14 X. Regular Cleaning Page 18 XI. Maintenance a. Tools Needed b.
II. The CCM® Series 6 (Facing Left) Control Bore Clamping Feed Neck 5/32nd Allen Key Back Block Barrel Auto Trigger 1/8th Allen Key Timing Hole 1/8th Allen Bolt Pump Cocking Rod Regulator Undertravel Screw 3/32nd Allen Key Grip Frame Can also come in .45 style. Regulator Adjustment 3/16th Allen Key ASA or Air Source Adaptor III.
IV. Series 5 Basic (Facing Left) V. Series 5 Basic (Facing Right) Note: All of the other parts are as named on the Series 6. Besides milling, the pump, and the detent – the Series 5 Basic is a very similar marker.
VI. Liability: Pumpenstein has no affiliation with Chipley Custom Machine or Datum Precision Machining. Likewise, we have no affiliation with WGP or the Autococker®. We do not work for them, are not sponsored by them, represent them, or speak for them in any way. Pumpenstein or any of it’s members does not accept any liability for the handling of these markers, tools, air tanks, or any other item mentioned in this Unofficial manual.
VII. Safety and Handling: A Paintball Marker is not a toy. Any of the tools in this manual are not toys. Tools and paintball markers should be used only by adults or with adult supervision. Respect other peoples’ property and when using any paintball marker, obey all local, state and federal laws. When entering a paintball field, become aware of their rules and regulations. It is very important to have the proper paintball protection before going to the paintball field for play.
VIII. Quick Start Guide: 1. Screw barrel onto marker – if your S5 Basic or S6 does not come with a barrel – use a barrel with Autococker® threads. 2. Place barrel blocking ‘Barrel Bag’ device properly onto the marker CAUTION: Always wear paintball approved eye and face protection when dealing with a pressurized paintball marker. 3. Pull the cocking rod back until it latches into place. You will hear a click when this happens. 4. Connect the air source to the ASA (air system adapter.
IX. A Brief Description of the workings of the Series 5 and 6. A cutaway of a Series 5 Body with Sear Engaged This is the marker cocked with a ball in the chamber. When you pull the trigger a sear is lowered which releases a hammer (inside the bottom tube of the marker). This hammer is under spring pressure (you load a spring when you pull back the cocking rod or pump the marker).
Marker being pumped – hammer and bolt traveling to the rear – ball ready to drop in breach. The ball is temporarily held in place by the ball detents installed in your Series 6 marker (they are hidden under the little caps on the side of your marker that say S6). When the cocking rod (attached to the hammer) allows the hammer to clear the sear, the sear will catch (with a click). Sear Engaged, Bolt moving forward ball entering the chamber.
every time the pump is returned to the starting position. With practice, the user can fire his Series 6 over six balls per second with accuracy. The auto-trigger is simply a cam that does not allow the trigger to fire until the pumping cycle is complete. The cam, behind your trigger, is attached to the pump arm (via a bolt – that takes a 1/8th Allen key). This allows for the proper timing of the auto-trigger.
X. Velocity: CAUTION: Industry approved protective gear (for face and eyes) must be worn at all times while operating and performing adjustments on this marker. • Do not insert objects into the space between the cocking block and the main body of the marker at any point in time. Improper marker treatment may result in damage to the marker and serious injury to the operator.
XI. Setting up the CCM® Marker: If you have not played with your CCM® marker and have just pulled it out of the box – skip to #3 of this section. For those that have already been playing with their marker - start at #1. 1) Back out your regulator adjustment screw (3/16th) until the marker starts hissing down the barrel when you pull the trigger. Turn it up until this leak stops. Your marker will most likely be shooting about 230 - 250 FPS.
However, a weaker main spring would lighten your pump stroke. I find the CCM® main spring is VERY light and I do not adjust my springs. I have found that 300 PSI is a great place to start with CCM® markers. You can use a Pressure Testing Gauge or just start low on the Regulator and turn it up from there. Perhaps even start at 275 psi and make smaller adjustments to the regulator to get it to plateau at the highest FPS you can.
XII. Additional Adjustments to the CCM Marker: Sear / Lug: The lug height controls how far the trigger must be depressed in order to fire the marker. If this lug is set too high, the marker will not cock because the sear does not come into contact with the lug. If the lug is set too low – the marker will not cock or will not fire because the lug is dragging on the grip frame or the sear cannot drop far enough to release the hammer.
Timing Hole – 1/8th Allen Turn the Allen key clockwise to lower the lug (allow the marker to fire with a longer trigger pull – or during auto trigger – later in the cycle) and to the anticlockwise to raise the lug (allow the marker to fire with a shorter trigger pull or during auto trigger - earlier in the cycle). Lug adjustment shown in cutaway. Lug is at its highest point. If the lug becomes to easy to turn with the Allen key it may vibrate loose and cause your timing to change.
Undertravel Screw: The undertravel screw (marked by the screwdriver in the picture below) is essentially only there to stop the Auto trigger and Cam from coming out of the grip frame. Pump the marker until you hear the sear ‘click’. Holding the pump in this position adjust the undertravel screw until it touches the trigger. This should set the undertravel screw to the proper position.
Pump Arm: Ensure that the bolt that attaches the Auto Trigger to the pump arm is perfectly perpendicular to the pump arm or else you will get binding and marring of the Auto Trigger arm. Cocking Rod: Set the cocking rod so that when you pump the marker the bolt just clears the chamber (looking down the feedneck) when the marker cocks. In other words, when you hear the click of the sear catching on the lug the bolt should have just cleared the chamber allowing another ball to enter the chamber.
XIII. Regular Cleaning. CAUTION: Always make sure you and everyone around you wears protection when you clean the marker or check it for paintballs. This is the cleaning I perform after every day of play. 1. Remove air source and ensure that all air has been released from the marker. 2. Remove the barrel. Spray a mix of rubbing alcohol, a little dish soap, and water down the barrel and run a pull through squeegee down it. Finish off with a swab. 3.
XIV. Maintenance: From time to time, it may be necessary to clean or replace worn parts within the marker. For this, you will need to break down the marker further than the regular maintenance lists above. This section will be broken into subsections: The Grip Frame, the Chassis, and the regulator. I will assume the marker has been degassed, the barrel has been removed and the marker checked for residual air and paint. Be SAFE! Tools Needed: A full set of American Allen Keys.
2. Remove the grip screws (4 - 5/64th) and the grip panels and the Frame Screws (2 1/8th Allen Screws for the Series 5 Basic and 2 - 3/32nd for the Series 6) that attach the frame to the marker chassis. The screws on the Series 6 are submerged and thus can be simply loosened a turn or two and the frame slid to the rear of the marker and removed. The Series 6 screws are of two different lengths – ensure you replace these properly when reassembling. Set the chassis aside. 3.
6. The Sear, Sear Pin, and Spring will come out. 7. Inspect the Sear to see if it has wear where the lug catches. (Notice the slight wear on this sear.) Wear can cause the marker to ‘skip’ (not recock from time to time) or be VERY hard to time the auto trigger. Replace this if wear is evident or malfunctions are occurring. This should not need to be done often and perhaps will never need to be replaced on your marker.
8. Remove the Trigger Shoulder Bolt and slide the trigger from the frame (shown with the top Allen key). Also remove the Trigger Undertravel Screw (shown with the bottom Allen key) - it must be removed from the top of the frame. Use Blue Loctite® on these screws upon reassembly. Be sure not to over tighten the Trigger Shoulder Bolt. Over tightening can cause drag on the trigger. 9. Your trigger frame is now completely disassembled. Clean thoroughly and reassemble. Chassis Disassembly and Maintenance: 1.
4. Use 3/16th Allen Key (Series 5 Basic) or a Spanner to remove the Pump Rod. On the Series 5 Basic the Pump Arm Guide Ring will come with it. 5. Inspect the o-rings on the Series 5 Basic’s Guide Ring or the Series 6 Guide Rod. If either is damaged, replace them. Lightly lubricate these orings upon reassembly. Series 5 Basic Pump Arm Guide Ring and o-rings. 6. Remove Vertical Regulator Adaptor (VRA). This is held on with red Loctite® and thus you may need to use some heat to remove it.
This is the Series 5 Basic’s VRA. The S6’s has a small guide rod attached. 7. The VRA has one static o-ring – which I lightly lubricate upon reassembly. 8. Note the depth of the Lug before disassembly. You want to replicate this depth upon reassembly. It will make timing the marker much easier. 9. Remove the IVG from the marker (1/8th Allen Key) noting its depth from flush to the rear of the body. About 2 full turns or 2.5 turns are normal. The main spring will also come out at this point.
10. Insert a 1/8th Allen key into the Timing Hole (on the top of the marker) and turn the lug until it is flush with the hammer. This allows for the removal of the hammer. 11. Remove the Valve Retaining Screw and the Valve Retaining Nut Set Screw from the bottom of the marker.
Cutaway view showing removal of Valve Retaining Nut Screw. Cutaway view showing removal Valve Retaining Nut Set Screw. 12. Insert an Autococker® Valve Tool into the rear of the bottom tube until you feel it seat deeply on the Valve Retaining Nut and remove it. Because CCM® uses a Valve Retaining Nut Set Screw; the Valve Retaining Nut is often marred. This can make this nut a bit stiff to remove. Take your time, make sure the tool is seated as deeply as it can be, and be careful.
Cutaway showing Valve Wrench fully engaged in Valve Retaining Nut. Cutaway showing Valve Wrench removing Valve Retaining Nut. 13. Carefully dump out the Valve, Valve Seal, and Valve Spring.
This is the CCM® internals set. From left to right – top to bottom: IVG, Main Spring, Hammer and Lug, Valve Alignment Nut, Valve Body and Valve Body O-Ring, Valve Pin and Cup Seal, Valve Spring. 14. Inspect the Valve Seal. If it appears damaged – replace it. These can last a very long time, but dirt and other debris can cause them to fail. If your marker is leaking down the barrel (and the cause is not the pressure of the marker being too low) it may be a bad Valve Seal.
16. Clean these parts completely and reassemble. NOTE: When reassembling the Valve Assembly – stack the Valve Spring, Valve, and Valve body, and Valve Retaining Nut on top of the Autococker® Valve Tool and slide the body over this assembly. Be sure not to cross thread the Valve Retaining Nut into the Chassis of the marker upon reassembly. Take your time, go slow, and get help from a qualified airsmith if you do not know what you are doing.
Disassembled Regulator (From Right: to Left: 3/16th Adjustment Screw, Regulator Housing Bottom, Regulator Spring Seat, Spring, Regulator Piston and O-Ring, Poppet Nut, Poppet Seat, Poppet Pin, Poppet Spring, Regulator Housing Top, O-Ring.) 1. Unscrew the halves of the regulator. CCM® has machined flats into the bottom of the regulator to assist in disassembly however, this is often not necessary to use. If you do, use some sort of protection so that you do not mar the anodizing. 2.
4. Clean (use your Q-tips® in all the appropriate places on the regulator top) and replace the regulator Pin O-Ring if necessary. Apply a light coat of oil to these parts and replace them. 5. Use your Needle nose pliers to pull out the Regulator Piston and O-ring (marring the cone portion of the regulator piston is okay - just do not mar where the regulator pin touches the regulator piston). You can also take the Velocity Adjustment Screw out of the bottom and push the piston out with a long rod. 6.
8. Clean the bottom portion and replace the Regulator piston or Regulator Piston O-Ring if necessary. 9. CCM® packs the lower portion in clear grease. I have found no grease is necessary here and simply apply a coat of Dow® 55 or Hater Sauce on the Piston and Piston O-Ring. 10. Put the regulator bottom back together and screw in the 3/16th screw flush with the base of the reg. 11. Reassemble the regulator and check it. I use a simply pressure testing kit. Set the Regulator at 300 PSI.
XV. Pimpin’ Your ‘Ride’: There is very little one can do to either of these markers to improve their performance. Both come with delrin bolts, polished and lightly sprung internals, and a good pump kit. However, I have experimented with trying to squeeze a little more performance out of both since I have owned them. I will start with what is a waste of money and time and then move on to the few modifications that seem to work.
during high rates of fire. I currently use a modified Sportshot Hopper that feeds great at about 6 to 7 bps that I can achieve in rapid fire. I find that an agitating loader simply adds weight and is unnecessary. Drop Forward: This may be a matter of opinion on my part but I think that due to the risk of the bolt smacking you in the mask when you re-cock the marker a straight rail is probably the best option when mounting your tank.
XVI. Troubleshooting: My velocity is very erratic. This is most often caused by inconsistent paint sizing. See if your paint fits your barrel well and consistently. If not, try better paint. I have good paint and my velocity is still erratic. Clean your regulator. If this still is happening – replace the seals inside the regulator. I have good paint, my regulator is working fine, and my velocity is still erratic. Clean the bottom tube and hammer.
Marker leaks down the barrel after I pull the trigger but stops once I cock it again. This is most likely caused by your Regulator Pressure being too low. Follow the set up instructions above and this should solve this problem, or set the regulator at 300 PSI and it should stop this leak. Marker leaks down the barrel no matter what I do. This is probably caused by a bad Valve Seal (Cup Seal). Replace this part. Sometimes you can get this leak to stop by running oil through the marker.
break very easily – this is most likely your culprit. Get a more robust shelled paint. Another common cause is that your detents are bad and you are double feeding paint. Again, you are not chopping paint but causing one ball to hit the other and break in the barrel. Replace your detents. If you are indeed chopping paint – it is either user error (you are simply closing the breach on a ball), feed issues (your hopper is not keeping up) or your paint is horribly out of round and not fitting in the breach.
XVII.
Small Guide Rod Pump Arm ‐ Drilled and Tapped Pump Kit Chassis Pump Guide Screw Pump Kit Guide Screw O‐Rings Grip Frame from the Trigger Guard. 86 Degree or .45 Hinge Frame Trigger Trigger Bearing Trigger Bearing Pin Sear Sear Pin Sear Pin Lock Screw (no present on the S5 or S5B) Sear Spring (Same as Valve Spring) Grips (on 86 degree grip) Grips (optional on 86 degree grip) Grips on .
Regulator Lower Housing Lower Housing top O‐ring Regulator Piston Regulator Piston O‐ring Regulator Main Spring Regulator Spring Seat Regulator Adjustment Screw Feedneck: Feedneck Clamp Ring Clamp Ring Screw Rail Mounting Screws Rail Spreading Screws Side Port Plug Screw Knob O‐ring On‐Off Body On‐Off Shaft O‐Ring 2011 Aluminum McMaster Buna‐N McMaster Delrin DPM Buna‐N McMaster Music Wire Lee Springs 2011 Aluminum DPM Stainless Steel McMaster 2011 Aluminum DPM 2011
XVIII. Contact Information for CCM: CCM / DPM 19641 N. Hirsch St Anderson, Ca 96007 Phone- 530-378-3420 Sales- 1-877-412-6850 Fax- 530-378-3420 www.chipleymachine.com XIX. Additions and Changes: We will be making changes to this manual periodically as we find out more and add more information. Please feel free to contact TF@Pumpenstein.com with any additions, corrections, or changes.
