Specifications

J/46 OWNER GUIDE

Tuning The Rig

Tuning the Mast

Please refer to special manufacturer instructions for the optional Hall carbon fiber mast included at the end

of this guide.

• The standard headstay length is designed to allow sufficient rake for good upwind balance with

either small or large jib. The Harken MK III Unit 2.0 furler fits the standard –17 rod headstay. The

backstay is set-up with a toggle under the hydraulic cylinder to set the handle forward and the

release knob aft. The mast step has a small range of adjustment.

• After the mast is in a Spartite kit has been provided in order to support the spar completely at the

deck. Please follow the installation instructions from Spartite to install properly. After the Spartite

sets, add a large bead of silicone around the mast to eliminate incremental wicking of moisture

belowdecks.

• After taking up the upper and lower shrouds hand-taught to center the mast (using the main

halyard to equalize distance to the port and starboard rail), apply maximum backstay on the

cylinder to bend the mast.

• Tighten the upper shrouds equally to port and starboard with a wrench.

• Release the backstay and tighten the lower shrouds to straighten the mast and establish the

correct amount of pre-bend recommended by your sailmaker

• The middle section of the mast is held in place laterally by intermediate shrouds which attach to

the mast below the upper spreaders and terminate at the deck. Each are adjusted with

turnbuckles. Most people tend to over-tighten these on their first try.

• Double check your tuning handiwork by looking up the backside and front side of the mast to be

sure that it is straight from side to side.

• Go sailing in 12-14 knots of wind with 80-90% backstay pressure. Chances are your leeward

upper shrouds will look loose. If so, take up on the leeward upper 2-3 turns, then tack and adjust

the other upper shroud the same. Continue back and forth until you’ve eliminated any visible slack

in the leeward upper shroud. Release backstay to medium pressure, site up the mast to check

side-to-side straightness, and then tighten the leeward lower shrouds as necessary to straighten

the side to side. You’ll probably find the lowers will only need 1 or 2 turns beyond hand-tight for the

right setting. Too much and you’ll see the mast bow to windward at the lower spreader.

• Check straightness and repeat the process making minor correcting adjustments to leeward

rigging only. Pin and tape the shrouds when finished.

Rigging The Boom

Run the single line 1

clew/tack reef from the clew to the forward end of the boom, up through a sheave on

the boom, to an individual turning block attached to a SS hook (this hooks into tack reef grommet in sail).

This line then leads down to the turning block at the mast collar, through the organizer and aft to a rope

clutch. The 2

clew reef line leads in a similar fashion but exits the boom down to the mast collar block

then aft.

• Attach boom gooseneck to lug on mast with large clevis pin.

• Attach Quik-Vang to mast lug at deck and then boom lug (hoist end of boom with main halyard if

necessary).

• Install mainsheet block (Harken 100mm) on bail at end of boom.

• Install mainsheet per rigging diagram.