Installation Guide

STEP 4: Installing the Floor
(Mechanically Fastened/Staple-Down Installations)
• Always use the recommended stapler for the specific product being
installed (see “Installation Applications”). Use a minimum 1˝ (2.5 cm) staple
recommended by the stapler manufacturer, 1˝-2˝ (2.5-5 cm) from the ends
spaced at 3˝-4˝ (8-10 cm) intervals. Continue to Step 5.
• Set compressor at 70 PSI. If tongue damage occurs, lower air pressure
(Figure 8).
• Fasten several sacrificial boards to the floor. At least two boards, stapled side
by side, must be used to indicate proper machine adjustments.
• Check for surface damage, air pressure setting, tongue damage, edge
blistering, etc. before proceeding. Make all adjustments and corrections
before installation begins. Once proper adjustments have been made, remove
and destroy the boards.
• Install the remainder of the floor working from several cartons.
• The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed when clearance does not
permit blind nailing with a stapler or a brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail or
pneumatically nail on the tongue side, following the nailing pattern used for
the first row.
General Information for Glue-Down Applications
• Maximum adhesive working times: Armstrong Equalizer adhesive - 60
minutes; Armstrong ProConnect
™
Hardwood Flooring Adhesive - 60
minutes. When not in use, keep the adhesive container tightly closed
to prevent thickening. Thickening will cause difficulty in spreading the
adhesive. Summit – 50 minutes
• Open times and curing times of ALL adhesives vary dependent upon
subfloor porosity, air movement, humidity and room temperature. Urethane
adhesive has a shortened working time in high humidity environments,
whereas the working time for ProConnect
™
and polymeric resin adhesives
will be lengthened. In areas of low humidity, open time will be longer with
urethane adhesives and shorter with ProConnect
™
. Adjust the amount of
adhesive spread on the subfloor accordingly. The adhesive should not be
applied if subfloor or room temperature is below 60°F (16°C). WORKING
TIME WILL VARY DEPENDING ON JOB SITE CONDITIONS.
• Hold trowel at a minimum 45° angle (Figure 9) firmly against the subfloor to obtain a 40-60 ft.
2
(4-5.5 m
2
) per gallon spread
rate (30-35 ft.
2
per gallon for Summit spread with the included Summit All-In-One trowel) The trowel will leave ridges of
adhesive and very little adhesive between the ridges. This will allow you to still see the chalk lines between the ridges and
provide the recommended spread rate.
• For additional application instructions, follow the recommendations on the adhesive container.
• Proper ventilation within the room must be provided. An electric fan is helpful.
• Rolling is not required, but if desired, do not do so until the adhesive has cured for two hours.
NOTE: DO NOT INSTALL FLOORING USING RUBBER MALLETS. STRIKING THE SURFACE WITH A RUBBER MALLET MAY
“BURN” THE FINISH CAUSING IRREPAIRABLE DAMAGE.
STEP 3: Spread the Adhesive
(Glue-Down Installations)
• Spread sufficient amounts of the recommended adhesive with the recommended trowel (Figure 2) in an area that can be
covered in 60 minutes (see adhesive information).
• If necessary, nail a sacrificial row with 1˝ (2.5 cm) nails on the dry side of your chalk line to help hold the first row in place.
NOTE: Avoid installing on the surface of the flooring. If necessary, distribute weight using a kneeler board.
STEP 4: Installing the Floor
(Glue-Down Installations)
(Figure 10a-10d)
• Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows. For
random and alternate width products, use the widest plank for the first row.
The first row of planks should be installed with the edge of the groove lined
up on the chalk line. The tongue should be facing the starting wall. The first
row must be aligned and seated in the adhesive, as all additional rows will
be pushed back to this original row. Remove tongue to allow for expansion
space, if necessary, on the row adjoining the wall. Continue to Step 5.
• When installing products wider than 3 1/4˝ (8 cm), apply a bead of
recommended wood glue to all of the end grooves prior to installing into
the adhesive.
• When installing pieces, engage the end-joint first, as close to the side (long)
tongue and groove as possible, then slide together tightly to engage the
side (long) joint tongue and groove. To avoid adhesive bleed-through and
memory pull-back, avoid sliding pieces through the adhesive as much as
possible when placing them in position.
• During the installation occasionally remove a piece of flooring from the
subfloor and inspect the back for proper adhesive transfer. Adequate
adhesive transfer is necessary to ensure sufficient holding strength.
• If the adhesive skins over and fails to transfer, remove and spread new
adhesive to achieve proper bonding.
NOTE: Clean adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently, using the
recommended adhesive cleaner. Urethane adhesives become extremely
difficult to remove when cured. Do not use 3M Scotch-Blue
™
2080 Tape before
adhesive is removed from the surface. Use clean towels, changed frequently,
to prevent haze and adhesive residue.
• Check for a tight fit between all edges and ends of each plank. End-joints
of adjacent rows should be staggered 4˝-6˝ (10-15 cm) when possible, to
ensure a more favorable overall appearance (Figure 4).
• It may be necessary to align the product with a cut-off piece of scrap as
shown (Figure 11 - Keep scrap angle low to avoid edge damage).
• To eliminate minor shifting or gapping of product during installation, use
3M Scotch-Blue
™
2080 Tape to hold the planks together. After installation is
complete, remove all of the 3M Scotch-Blue
™
2080 Tape from the surface
of the newly installed flooring. Do not let the tape remain on the flooring
longer than 24 hours. Avoid the use of masking or duct tape, which leaves
an adhesive residue and may damage the finish.
• If necessary, use weights to flatten boards with bows until adhesive cures,
in order to prevent hollow spots. Boards that cannot be flattened should be
cut in length to reduce the bow, or not used.
• Be sure not to spread adhesive too far ahead of your work area (Figure
10d).
• Complete the installation using this same technique for the remainder of the
floor.
• Avoid heavy foot traffic on the floor for at least 24 hours. Lift the furniture or
fixtures back into place after 24 hours.
3
General Information for Floating Floors
Floating floors can be installed over any structurally sound surface that meets or exceeds local building codes. Any width of
flooring can be installed in this manner but wider widths are preferred.
• Plan the floor layout (in width) to avoid having to rip the last row narrower than 1˝ (2.5 cm). This may require ripping the first
row to assure the last row is at least the minimum width.
• Allow 1/2˝ (13 mm) expansion around all vertical obstructions.
STEP 3: Installing the Underlayment
(Floating Installations Only)
• Install the underlayment in the same direction the hardwood flooring is to be
installed.
• Extend the underlayment a few inches up the wall.
• Trim excess prior to installing trim or moldings.
• The floating floor underlayment already has double-sided tape for ease
of taping the precut overlapping seams (Figure 12). If a non-adhesive
underlayment is used, tape all seams with the included tape.
STEP 4: Installing the Floor
(Floating Installations Only)
• The first row can be installed using one of two methods after the layout has
been completed (Step 2). Allow 1/2˝ (13 mm) expansion.
• Sacrificial board: If the wall is not straight, scribe the first board (Figure 13)
as necessary to maintain alignment with the chalk line. Install a sacrificial
board (with a straight edge) using the appropriate fasteners for the subfloor.
If a board is used for the starter row make certain the groove faces the wall.
• Wedges: Align the first row with the wall using wedges to maintain a
1/2˝ (13 mm) expansion in place and to stabilize the product. If the wall
is not straight, scribe the first board (Figure 13) as necessary to maintain
alignment with the chalk line.
• Select the first board. All installations
should begin with the groove side
against the wall using the longest
boards available. Apply a continuous
1/8˝ (3 mm) glue bead to the inside
bottom of the groove on the end of
the board. Do not apply glue to the
groove side at this time (Item C,
Figure 14). Products with the end
tongue on the left should be installed
right to left, opposite tongues should
be left to right. (Item D, Figure 14). If
a sacrificial board was used DO NOT
glue the first row to it.
• Complete the first row. Cut the last
board allowing for 1/2˝ (13 mm)
clearance between the wall and the
floor. (Use the remaining end of the
cut board as a starter board for any row following row three). Install a wedge on the end of the board between the hardwood
flooring and the wall, allowing 1/2˝ (13 mm) expansion space. Avoid installation of any boards shorter than 16˝ (40.6 cm) in
the first four rows. (Item F, Figure 14).
• Use a pull bar to pull the last board into place from the opposite end. Install wedges into the gap and tighten (Item B, Figure 14).
• If any glue gets on the surface of the flooring, wipe off immediately with a clean damp cloth.
• Cut or use a shorter board for the first board of the second row. Start the second row by applying a 1/8˝ (3 mm) bead along
the inside bottom of the end and side groove of the new board. Install the first board of row two. Apply a bead of glue to the
inside bottom of the end and side groove of the next board and install. When installing boards together, use a tapping block
against the tongue, not the groove (Item G, Figure 14). Tap the boards into place by tapping with a hammer on the tapping
block. DO NOT tap on the edge directly with the hammer. Complete the second through fourth rows using this technique.
Insert wedges on the ends, as necessary, to restrain the movement of the floor.
• In the remaining rows, stagger joints 4˝-6˝ (10-15 cm) apart. Install the rest of the floor. Be sure all joints are tight. Use
spacers on the long and butt walls. Use a tapping bar to tighten the joints from the ends.
STEP 5: Complete the Installation
(All Installation Methods)
• Remove all tape and clean the floor with the recommended hardwood flooring cleaner.
• Trim all underlayment (floating only) and install or re-install any transition pieces, reducer strips, T-moldings, thresholds,
bases and/or quarter round moldings that may be needed. These products are available pre-finished to blend with your
flooring (see below). Nail moldings into the wall, not the floor.
• Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
• If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.
• Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner. Advise them of the product name and code number of the flooring
they purchased.
• To prevent surface damage, avoid rolling heavy furniture and appliances on the floor. Use plywood, hardboard or appliance
lifts if necessary. Use protective casters/caster cups or felt pads on the legs of furniture to prevent damage to the flooring.
V. TRANSITION AND WALL MOLDINGS
• Reducer Strip: A teardrop shaped molding used around fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a transition between
hardwood flooring and adjacent thinner floor coverings. Fasten down with adhesive, small nails or double-faced tape.
• Threshold: A molding undercut for use against sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or existing thresholds to
allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height difference. Fasten to subfloor with adhesive and/or
nails through the heel. Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Stair Nosing: A molding undercut for use as a stair landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair steps. Fasten down
firmly with adhesive and nails or screws. Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Quarter Round: A molding used to cover expansion space next to baseboards, case goods, and stair steps. Predrill and nail
to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
• Combination Base and Shoe: A molding used when a base is desired. Used to cover expansion space between the floor and
the wall. Predrill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
• T-Molding: A molding used as a transition piece from one rigid flooring to another of similar height or to gain expansion
spaces. Fasten at the heel in the center of the molding. Additional rigid support may need to be added to the heel of the
molding dependent upon the thickness of the goods covered. Do not use this molding as a transition to carpet.
Figure 10a
chalk line
work area - adhesive
Figure 10b
chalk line
work area - adhesive
groove side
2 31
Figure 10c
Figure 10d
1 2 3
10 11 12
13
4 5 6
7 8 9
Figure 11
Figure 14
16"
(40.6 cm)
Apply a 1/8˝ (3 mm)
bead along the
inside bottom of the
end and side.
Always work directly in front of the
plank you are installing. Never stand
or sit on any of the planks you have
already installed.
C
A
B
D E
F
G
Wooden Wedges
Underlayment
Starter Strip
“Work Zone”
Reducer Strip Threshold Stair Nosing Quarter Round T-Molding
Underlayment will install
parallel to longest wall
Pre-measured overlap
Underlayment
Les panneaux di renforcement
doivent être installés parallèlement
au mur le plus long.
Zone de recouvrement de panneaux
de renforcement pré-mesurée.
Panneaux de renforcement
El recubrimiento inferior se
instala en sentido paralelo
a la pared más larga
Superposición incluida
Recubrimiento inferior
Figure 12
Figure 9
Figure 13
Too Low Too High Correct
Figure 8
Wood Plank