R1100 Maintenance Guide - R850R Internet BMW Riders and R1100 List Contributors 1
Edited by Carl Kulow Send comments/corrections to kulowc@indiana.edu ISBN R-1100 Second Edition Copyright: IBMWR and R1100 List Members All authors have done their best to produce accurate information. However, they assume no liability for any damage or injury caused by any errors or omissions in this manual. Use at your own risk.
TABLE OF CONTENTS R1100 CHECKLIST - CARL KULOW.........................................................................................................................................4 R1100 PARTS AND TOOL LIST - CARL KULOW.....................................................................................................................4 R1100 MAINTENANCE STEPS - CARL KULOW ......................................................................................................................
R1100 Checklist - Carl Kulow • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Check alternator belt (replace 36K miles) Adjust valves Spark plugs (replace 12K) Air filter (replace 12K) Lube and adjust clutch cable Lube front shock lower mount Lube side and center stand Check brake fluid (replace yearly) Check brake pads Check battery acid level Fuel filter (replace 24K) Throttle body sync Oil and filter (replace 6K) Check transmission fluid level (replace 12K) Check rear wheel drive fluid level (replace 12K) Check ti
R1100 Maintenance Steps - Carl Kulow Note: This overview section serves only as a step by step reminder for experienced workers.
Lube and Adjust Clutch Cable adjust maximum slack at clutch lever, at rear of transmission pry clutch release arm to release the clutch cable there, lube both ends of clutch cable with BMW #10 grease, reattach cable, using the knurled adjuster at the hand lever adjust to 12mm between it and the knurled locknut, at clutch release arm loosen the 13mm locknut using 13mm deepwell socket and swivel, adjust the 10mm bolt to give 7mm freeplay at the hand clutch lever, pull in the hand clutch lever while tightening
Throttle Body Sync attach carb stix to each throttle body, RS,RT = 1 1/2 and R,GS = 2 turns out, start bike, adjust brass screws to balance mercury at idle, check balance at 3500 rpm and adjust throttle cable on right side TB by loosening 10mm locknut and turning cable adjuster, replace TB vacuum hoses or caps, (see Bob Gorman and Jon Diaz and Stephen Karlan "Throttle Body Sync") (also see Bob Gorman and Rob Lentini “Throttle Position Sensor”) Change Oil and Filter replace every 6K miles, remove oil drain p
R1100 Routine Service – Paul Glaves In this article we will cover the specifications and other information needed for a mechanically experienced R1100 owner to perform routine maintenance on his or her motorcycle. This article is not intended to teach the mechanically inexperienced owner everything they need to know about maintaining an R1100 motorcycle. From my experience, at least 90% of motorcycle maintenance is core knowledge of fundamental mechanic’s technique. Ten percent is motorcycle model specific.
event of a malfunction or failure, determining whether or not the failure represents a defect in materials or workmanship in the manufacture of the motorcycle or represents a failure due to a lack of maintenance or improper maintenance may be an issue. Do not take shortcuts! Do not neglect recommended maintenance! Document the maintenance you do! I do not recommend that any owner perform the initial (600 mile) service on a motorcycle. More than maintenance is involved at this step.
Check Battery: Inspect the battery to ensure that the electrolyte level is between the minimum and maximum marks. Top off to the maximum mark with distilled water. Check the connections for signs of corrosion. Clean the terminals and connections as required. Check and Adjust the Alternator Drive Poly Belt: The alternator drive belt is located behind the front cover. The alternator is mounted so that it can slide vertically up or down when the retaining bolts are loosened.
Check the Brake Rotors: Examine the brake disks for scoring and wear. BMW specifies a minimum thickness of 4.5 mm (.17 inches) for the front rotors and 4.6 mm (.18”) for the rear rotor. Carefully examine the “rivets”which attach the front floating disks to their carriers. These wear, and need to be replaced when worn. Each rotor is mounted with two types which may be identified as having a large hole or smaller hole in the center of the “rivet.
MAJOR SERVICE: For a Major Service, perform all of the service items called for in a minor service, and in addition perform the following: Change the Transmission Oil: With the bike fully warmed up, drain the transmission oil and refill the transmission. The fill plug is readily identifiable on the right side of the transmission. The drain plug is not in the bottom of the transmission, where it would dump oil onto the catalytic converter and exhaust system.
Check the Brake Fluid Level: Check the level of the brake fluid in the reservoirs and top off to the maximum fill line with DOT 4 brake fluid. You should plan on changing the brake fluid at least once each year, regardless of mileage. BMW specifies that when changing brake fluid or flushing the system the front (but not the rear) caliper pistons need to be recessed fully back into their bores. This is so fluid is forced out of the caliper cylinders and stale fluid is not trapped in the calipers.
Alternator Belt Adjustment - Jon Diaz The following is not BMW factory procedure....use at your own risk. I remove the left fairing panel, the airbox horn, and the front cover on the engine block. The belt needs to be tightened with a 6mm allen wrench from the rear (airbox) side of the alternator. The allen screw is blind. Do all this when the bike is cold or you will burn your elbow on the exhaust header.....
Valve Adjustment - Stephen Karlan (Dali Meeow) TOOLS NEEDED newspaper (oil catcher) med. screwdriver (pry) compressed air hemostat for rubber plug 5/8-in. or 17mm socket flashlight 3, 4, 5, 6 mm T handle Allen torque wrench 10mm box wrench pliers drain pan plug tool 2 sets gauges carb stix You must start with a cold engine. Put newspaper or drain pan under the cylinder heads to catch the oil drips. Remove alternator cover using 4mm Allen wrench.
After the first valve is adjusted, the second valve will then be adjusted while the first is stabilized. To check if a valve is properly adjusted, attempt to insert the next thicker size of feeler gauge -- it should be too big to fit. The valve clearance may change as you tighten the lock nut. Experiment with tightening technique to maintain clearance as you tighten, and recheck the clearances after all four valves on one side have been adjusted.
Clutch Adjustment - Paul Glaves The clutch adjustment at the hand lever specified as 7mm when resistance is felt is a bit deceptive, or at least ambiguous. Proper clutch adjustment procedure - which BMWNA says is critical to proper clutch operation is: a. adjust the knurled adjuster at the hand grip so that exactly 12mm is between the knurled adjuster and the knurled lock ring. b. Loosen the 13mm lock nut on the adjusting pin (small bolt) on the clutch lever at the rear of the transmission.
Clutch Adjustment - Bob Gorman A just released service bulletin revises the clutch freeplay specification to 12mm between the knurled nuts and 7mm at the lever. This is revised from 10mm and 5mm respectively. It appears that improper clutch adjustment has been the cause of many shifting problems. In order to obtain the new clearances you'll need to adjust the clutch at the motor. You can have your dealer do it next time you have service or you can easily do it yourself.
Brake Bleeding - Stephen Karlan (Dali Meeow) R1100 and R850 yearly maintenance requires replacing (by bleeding) the brake fluid. RECOMMENDED FLUIDS Use only fluids from a new, never-been-opened container. The manual calls for: BMW DOT4, Castrol Disc Brake, DOW ET 504 Shell Donax DOT 4, Hydraulan DOT 4. None of these is a synthetic. Use the recommended fluids. Synthetics (DOT 5) are not approved and may not be compatible with the R1100.
more fluid to the reservoir and start this cycle again. Memorize step #3. The brake nipple is located on the caliper body. Stand to the left side of the bike and look at the front wheel. The tire is mounted on the rim. The brake disc (rotor) is smaller than the rim, made of shiny metal with holes bored in it. At the one o'clock position there is a black metal caliper with the word "BREMBO" in metallic relief on the body. A rubber hose containing the brake fluid is attached to the top of the caliper.
WARNING: You must pump both front and rear brakes to confirm that they are responding with a solid feel BEFORE you ride the bike!!! Note on brake fluid level: Before replacing brake pads, remove brake fluid so that it is NOT at the maximum level. New brake pads will take up some of the brake fluid space in the system; if the brake fluid is at maximum level it probably will overflow the reservoir. METHOD TWO. No Mityvac is used in Method Two.
After the fluid has been completely replaced and all nipples are tight, check that the front and rear reservoirs are filled and secure. Slowly pump the brake lever, then pump the foot pedal until there is a solid feel. Continue pumping the brakes for a few minutes, then recheck the reservoir level and refill if necessary.
SPEED BLEEDER (a new third method) This new product is a one-way valve that looks similar to the standard bleed nipple at the caliper, but replaces it. It operates like the standard bleed nipple, opening when turned counter-clockwise and allowing brake fluid to flow from the nipple at the caliper. The advantage of the Speed Bleed is that it is manufactured with a check valve that prevents air from entering the brake system at the nipple.
Brake Pad Replacement - Carl Kulow Many riders are particularly pleased with EBC pads which can be ordered through any motorcycle dealer from Tucker-Rocky. Front Pads (2 sets) - - - - - all R1100’s = EBC # FA246 Rear Pads - - - - - - - - - - - - GS, R, RT = EBC # FA245 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -RS = EBC # FA171 The EBC pads may not be a perfect fit. The front pads may need very gentle filing where they touch in the top inside corners (see where the paint is worn off on the OEM pads).
Rear (GS, R, RT) remove bags remove keeper from pin drive out pin from keeper side (drive toward wheel) remove caliper bolts - 8 mm hex remove caliper, rock back and forth on rotor to spread pads remove old pads grind or file EBC pads to fit (see above) insert new pads drive in pin insert keeper install caliper onto rotor install caliper bolts, torque to 40 Nm (30 ft.lb.
Spongy Brakes Fix – Simon Evans Fiddling with the R1100GS this morning, I removed the handguards for cleaning and to top up the brake master cylinder (the spate of warm weather in the UK having caused a re-ocurrence of that perennial old bugbear - the “Spongy brake – or the ohmigodthelevercumsbacktothebar syndrome”). Accidentally, I knocked off the lower plastic cover under the brake lever housing and hey!, what's this - a large screw that appears to wind into the master cylinder or the piston...
Changing the Fuel Filter on an R1100RS - Jon Diaz Here is the procedure to change your R1100RS fuel filter. It took me about 90 minutes the first time....but hopefully, things will go more quickly for you! Purchase the following before you start: a new fuel filter, a new sealing O-ring for the fuel pump plate, and two standard BMW fuel line clamps just like the ones used on the fuel lines by the right side throttle body (point to these on your bike if your parts jockey doesn't understand).
groove, the vent lines forced back on the plate, and install the plate exactly as removed. Start all six screws, and tighten in a cross pattern. I tilted the tank back up after this operation to try and get the O-ring to leak. After 30 minutes or so, nothing had come out. I would suggest doing this as well to avoid having to re-remove the tank to fix a leak. Reinsert the fuel tank, and the lines pretty much fall into place.
Synchronizing R1100 Throttle Bodies - Bob Gorman This is and will continue to be a hot topic amongst R1100 owners. Properly synched throttle bodies will greatly reduce surging and vibration but getting them synched and keeping them synched is probably the most difficult of any BMW motorcycle to date. Dealers were required to purchase a $1000.00 special instrument in order to properly synch the big twin but it can be done with the conventional Carb-Stix.
rpm's, as this can potentially suck mercury into the motor. If you need to make an adjustment loosen, or slacken in BMWese, the 10mm lock nut on the cable nipple. Turn the cable nipple in or out being careful not to turn the cable housing at the same time. Keep checking to make sure the cable turns freely in the nipple. Make small adjustments, 1/2 half turn in or out can make a difference. Once you get the mercury columns to rise together and settle fairly closely at various rpms you are done.
to provide a little cooling breeze and temperature stability. After the warm-up ride, place the bike on the centerstand. Remove the black plastic injector covers if your bike has them, remove the vapor recovery tubes from the bottom side of each injector body, and insert the hoses from the Carb Stix onto the exposed taps. Hang the Carb Stix from the ceiling with a bungee cord or something similar so you can see the mercury levels easily from the right side of the bike.
Throttle Body Synch for Dummies – Stephen Karlan (Dali Meeow) An out-of-synch condition develops (R850 and R1100) because the throttle body cables stretch or because they lose their adjustment. The result is vibration, sometimes unreal vibration. The following procedure, which I call the Gorman/Diaz Balance, was developed by Bob Gorman and Jon Diaz from Chicago. It is a fast and simple procedure that can yield dramatic riding improvement.
There is one black tube attached to the under side of each throttle body. Remove both black (vapor recovery) tubes and you will expose the brass nipples that point down. Attach one of the carb stix's flexible plastic tubes to each brass nipple. Make certain that the carb stix's plastic tubing does not touch hot exhaust parts; the tubing will melt. There is no need to plug the black vapor recovery tubes.
HIGH RPM SYNCH: When performing the high rpm synch, you will be moving the throttle up to 4,000 rpm. Move the throttle slowly to avoid sucking mercury into the engine. The right side crossover synch cable has already been loosened ['97- right throttle cable has already been loosened]. The knurled knob should turn without turning or binding the crossover synch cable. Adjust the knurled knob so that the mercury columns rise together as the rpm rises.
If the mercury comes out of the reservoir (because it tipped over or the cat hit it), you can get it from Chaparral Motorsports 1-800-841-2960 part# 315-0441 for $9.99. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Glossary: RSCSC Right side crossover synch cable ['97- right throttle cable]. On the right side of the bike, forward of the fuel injection plugs and between the engine and the throttle body, you will find this vertical cable.
Throttle Position Sensor - Bob Gorman The throttle position sensor is located on the left throttle body. It is the black box with an electrical plug extending from the bottom. The sensor is what ties the mechanics of the throttle cable to the electronics of the Motronic. The Motronic needs to know the position of the throttle so it can regulate gas flow, timing, and other engine management functions. As you turn the throttle, voltage is adjusted up and down in the sensor and relayed to the Motronic.
Throttle Position Sensor - Rob Lentini Note: the following information has been updated in the “R1100 Throttle Position Sensor Tuning”article in the Super Tuning section of this manual. The following information is intended primarily for people who wish to adjust their TPS but do not want to change the factory sealed throttle body stop screw on the throttle body. Here’s what I know about Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) settings on my bike an R1100RS.
Throttle Screw and TPS Adjustment for Dummies - Stephen Karlan (reviewed by Rob Lentini) I. The Problems. Surging -- A condition of increasing and decreasing power, cycling back and forth, when the throttle is held aabsolutely steady at a fixed rpm (such as 3,500 rpm while using a throttle lock, tape or rock-solid hand). The electronic control system is hunting (up and down) for the correct air/fuel mixture and the engine is not responding to throttle input but to electronic sensors.
This article does not present significant or new procedures, it has been written for newbies and simply goes into greater detail. It was designed to help you find the right part to tweak. These instructions assume that you know almost nothing about the bike, where parts are located, or how it functions. The priority here is to help you diagnose and adjust the bike, not engineering or theory.
Step 1. Loosen throttle cable (left side) Here are four (A-D) ways to find the throttle cable. Use all of these the first time you use these instructions to ensure that you have the correct part. (A) Starting at the front edge of the seat, if you were to hang a string onto the left side of the bike, it would contact the black plastic air intake duct (2 1/4 inch diameter tube) about 11 to 13 inches down.
these are fuel injection controls. The front plug of the two may be removed by depressing (press in) on the wire clip on the plug and then lifting the plug from its mounting. After removing both the three-sided plastic cover and the fuel injection plug, there will be more room in which to work. You are now ready to loosen the throttle cable, which was the whole purpose in finding this cable.
awkward position but the metal flange piece is easy to touch. The screw, that limits how far it can close, is located on a metal plate above the flange. This screw determines the distance between the flange and the throttle plate. [If you see an adjustment screw on a long arm, this is related to the throttle advance (adjusts the "choke"); this is NOT the screw you are looking for.] Now that you have found the flange and screw, you now must figure out how to adjust the screw.
TPS slightly in one direction will increase the voltage; turning it in the other direction will decrease the voltage. Turn the TPS until the observed voltage decreases to about .006 or .005 volts, which probably is as low as the voltage will go. If it will go no lower, that's okay. DO NOT continue to turn the TPS after it reaches its minimum value, which is close to zero. Start at a high value (.300) and turn the TPS until it reaches the low value (.006 or .005) and stop.
Step 8. Turn the large brass bypass screws out in 1/4 increments if bike will not idle; attach carb stix If the bike will not idle at all, back both large brass bypass screws out in increments of 1/4 turn until the bike will sustain a rough idle. Secure the mercury manometers (carb stix) on the right side on the bike, where most of the work will take place.
Oil Change - Paul Glaves 1. Warm up engine thoroughly 2. Turn off engine 3. Place motorcycle on center stand 4. Place drain pan under the drain plug in the bottom of the oil pan 5. Remove oil filler plug to let air into crankcase 6. Take 8mm allen wrench and carefully remove the plug without burning yourself 7. Let oil all drain into the drain pan. 8. Take 3/8 drive ratchet with short extension and BMW filter wrench in hand. 9. Locate the oil filter in the recess in the oil pan casting 10.
Leaking Cam Covers and Oil filler Cap - Stephen Karlan (Dali Meeow) If you own an R850 or R1100 BMW and there is excessive grime or some messy oil leaks around the oil filler cap or the black plastic cam covers at the rear of the cylinders, then your bike might benefit from some high temperature O rings. The original O rings are made of soft materials and will deform after extended use and heat. The solution is two-fold. While you are changing O rings, also check the plastic for any casting flash.
need for this installation. Reinserting the black plastic ring can be tricky. It is a tight fit and you do not want to crack it. Lubricate (with oil) the part and line it up (black tab) and try to push it in by hand. Repeat several times. If that does not work, install the oil filler cap back into the black plastic ring (both plastic pieces now mated) and align the black tab on the ring with the cylinder depression. Lubricate and tap gently.
R1100RS Driveshaft And Clutch Spline Lube - Kit Vercella First a few introductory comments are in order. The following procedure is the result of having done this particular service only once. It is certainly possible that those who have more experience can offer some refinements to the procedure below; thus, making the entire job more efficient. This write-up is based on having done this service on a non-ABS 1993 R1100RS.
The shop manual recommends draining the oil from the rear drive unit. However, if you keep the rear drive unit upright after removal, draining isn’t necessary. Remove rear bearing retaining bolts on the driveshaft housing. These are the two large hex bolts located opposite one another on the driveshaft housing just forward of the rubber boot. Since the bolt threads are covered with threadlock, it is necessary to heat the bolts with a heat gun (BMW recommends to a maximum temperature of 120C).
Remove the three screws which secure the air box assembly. One screw is located at the rear of the air box and one screw on each side near the front of the air box. Later you will remove the air box assembly itself. Disconnect the breather hose from the air box and the wire harness that fits into a slot at the front of the air box. Remove the rear brake fluid reservoir from its bracket. Remove the rear brake line from its bracket.
At this point I don’t recall whether I was able to remove the air box assembly, or whether the rear frame had to be partially tilted upward first. (Hey, remember I only did this once). But, it should be obvious to you once you have reached this point. Unless I have forgotten something, you’re now ready to lift the rear frame. You can either tilt the rear frame upward and connect it with a strap to the handlebars or, as I did, suspend the frame from the ceiling.
A few torque values: fixed bearing retainer bolts (on right side of driveshaft housing) 150 Nm(105?) idler bearing retainer bolts (on left side of driveshaft housing) 7 Nm locknut on idler bearing retainer bolts 105 Nm transmission to engine case bolts 22 Nm brake caliper bolts 40 Nm shock absorber bolts (RS 8.8 screw) 43 Nm (RS 10.
Super Tuning! R1100 Throttle Position Sensor Tuning - Rob Lentini Background Since the "R1100 Fuel Injection/Surging/Fixes" series I have continued to investigate how the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) works. My aim was to develop the best procedure for a curious, competent home mechanic to adjust this component for best performance and least "surging", the scourge of many oilhead boxers. I went about this slowly, carefully, and enlisted the help of others--in particular Jim Roche, AKA "Dr. Curve".
this was a good starting point. What is the standard opening fixed by the blue paint? Is it air flow, gap between the butterfly and bore or, arghhh(!) "x" number of turns from full closed? I wondered, if .370-.400 volts "should" be what equates to a proper opening for idle, perhaps screwing out the throttle stop on the left throttle body should yield .000 volts at the TPS. Well, guess what? I have done this very procedure on my RS with great results.
probably go no lower, which is OK. DO NOT turn it any more as the wiper of the pot has already reached the end of travel. Stop just when the voltage stops decreasing and lock it down there. 5. With "zero = zero" set, now turn the left throttle body stop screw clockwise (CW) until the voltage starts to rise, and continue until you reach .370 volts. Stop there, and lock it down with the jamnut if so equipped. Blip the throttle several times to check accuracy and repeatability. Readjust if needed.
My instructions are to set the left stopscrew to .370 volts, which approximates the lower value of .370 - .400 that others such as Jon Diaz have reported as the normal TPS range. On some machines this setting will result in a higher than normal idle speed, say around 1400 RPM, that cannot be reduced by going CW with the bypass screws. FIX: Reduce the TPS voltage with the left stop screw in increments of .020 volts (.370, .350, .
at all. Another cable enters the distribution box from the start lever. When actuated, this cable pulls a tab across that contacts a flange on the wheel, opening the throttles a prescribed amount for starting. So the cable at each throttle body is just that, the throttle cable for that particular side. It is essentially as if the throttle cable has a "Y" upstream as the older Rs did. To do the TPS procedure loosen the free play adjusters on each throttle body.
the idle RPM is 1000 or less! If your R1100 is like mine, the timing will be advanced 50% further than the "OT" to "S" mark, for about 9 degrees of initial advance. If so, put everything back together and, if during your test ride you detect no noticeable detonation, you are in business. Valve Lash Increase - Rob Lentini If you are like me, try this. I like low and mid-range driveability and throttle response. My R1100RS would not idle for several minutes on cold mornings until I increased valve lash.
NON-OEM (ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURER) PLUGS FOR THE R1100/850 OILHEAD - Rob Lentini The BMW Internet lists have been ablaze lately over spark plugs! Why has a simple item been such a popular subject of discussion? Here’s why… Many of you are aware (sadly so!) of the surging that is common in many of the R1100/850 series BMW Oilheads. This subject itself has been one of much discussion and I took some time to investigate it myself on my personal ’94 R1100RS.
FR6DDC, a slightly hotter running tip. Some have reported the newer Bosch plug is an improvement, but many other riders I have communicated with say the Autolite or Champion plug is, in most cases, quite superior in operation and surging minimization. What’s my favorite? Autolite. They exhibit minimal wear during the 12,000 mile specified service life and the center electrode color (on my RS) is a perfect medium to light tan on the insulator.
THROTTLE BODY BUTTERFLY BUSHING/SEAL WEAR - Rob Lentini Problems with throttle body synchronization and accomplishment of "zero=zero" may, but rarely, be caused by wear or failure of the throttle butterfly shaft bushings and/or seals. While these parts are not currently available for replacement (though may be shortly), here's how to tell if you have this rare wear problem: Spray carb cleaner, propane, or simply WD-40 at the throttle shaft pivot area with the engine running and listen for RPM speed-up.
R1100 Tire Change - Carl Kulow Front Wheel Removal before removing, check rim for dents!!! out of round and runout RS: remove fender and fork covers - top=3mm, side=5mm and 3mm remove both sets of calipers - bolts through forks, 8mm (rock back and forth on rotor to spread pads for easy removal) remove axle nut (bolt) - R=17mm, RS=18mm loosen axle clamp bolts - 6mm pull axle out with screwdriver while supporting tire (watch for spacer on right side and speedo drive on left side) roll wheel out (check front b
Front Wheel Installation reinstall rotors, if you removed them 24 Nm plus Loctite 243 grease axle lightly roll wheel in insert right side spacer and left side speedo drive insert axle from right side tighten axle nut (bolt) R=17mm RS=18mm 22 ft.lbs.(30 Nm) gently pry brake pads apart with tire iron install calipers 8mm - 30 ft.lbs.(40 Nm) pump front brakes until pressure returns!!! with bike off centerstand compress front forks several times with rear brake applied tighten axle clamp bolts -6mm 16 ft.lbs.
Tools Allen socket set small torque wrench BMW tool kit 3 tire irons rubber mallet bead breaker (JC Whitney) balancing stand (homemade) valve core tool rear wheel adapter and axle hacksaw razor knife wheel weight ribbon hair dryer duct tape tire lube or dish soap paint brush (for applying lube) alcohol grease 64
