Specifications
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
The standard wiring loom and 55 ampere
alternator are completely satisfactory and need
only be modified when several extra electrical
components are to be fitted. Under certain event
conditions, four additional driving lamps, a short
wave radio and additional navigational
i
nstruments may be required. Under these
circumstances we would advocate the fitment of
a 90 ampere alternator and additional individual
wiring harnesses appropriately relayed and fused.
The 1600 model is fitted with a 44 ampere hour
capacity, maintenance-free battery.This is
completely satisfactory for all competition
applications.
When refitting the wiring loom following a
major vehicle rebuild such as this, certain
precautions must be taken to ensure satisfactory
performance of all electrical components.
Wherever possible secure the wiring to the
bodyshell using proprietary clips and always use
grommets where the wiring passes through metal
panels.
Additional care when making cable runs
will pay dividends... neat, tidy and secure means
safe and reliable!
Ensure all plug-in connectors
are clean and completely engaged when
assembled. Special attention must be given to all
the earthing points around the vehicle, as some
of these may have become insulated during the
painting process.
Thoroughly scrape away
excess paint from these positions to ensure a
good connection.
Certain additional electrical items are
obligatory under FIA Appendix J regulations
concerning safety. A general circuit breaker must
be fitted to cut out all electrical circuits and must
now be wired in such a way that it also stops a
running engine.
A foot switch to operate the horn from the
co-driver's side of the car must also be fitted. To
fit these and other important items, the following
procedures should be adopted.
CIRCUIT BREAKER (Master Switch)
An
ideal position for mounting this is the centre
console, just above the gearlever linkage (see
photo).
Using the existing wiring loom, take the thickest
battery +ve lead (16mm) and re-run it through
the bulkhead to the switch terminal.
Connect the other switch terminal directly to the
starter motor using similar 16mm cable. Replace
the link lead from the starter motor to the
alternator with 16mm cable. This will now be
suitable for use with a larger output alternator if
required.
Now take the remaining smaller diameter
(10mm) battery +ve lead, re-route and attach it
directly to the alternator.
To ensure that the engine is also cut when the
master switch is moved to the off position, the
coil -ve terminal must be connected to one of the
two small `W' contacts on the master switch.
The second `W' contact must be connected to
chassis ground.
A coil -ve terminal can easily be found on the
rear face of the instrument cluster as this lead is
also the tachometer pulse supply lead (light
green).
Run an additional wire from this
connection point to the appropriate `W' terminal
on the master switch, following the path of and
taped to the existing harness where possible for
support.
NOTE: Certain event regulations require that
this switch can also be actuated from outside the
vehicle.
In this case a choke or bonnet release
cable assembly can be adapted to operate the
switch from a cable pull mounted on the
bulkhead.
FOOT
SWITCH
This switch requires a lead from the -ve side of
the horn (brown/white), and a return to chassis
ground.
We would suggest making the
connection with the -ve side of the horn in the
region of the horn push, where the lead emerges
at the top of the steering column and connects to
a contact ring, rather than breaking into the
harness at the lower end of the steering column.
Again follow the path of and tape to the existing
harness for support.