the road to fun
HELMETS SAVE LIVES! CORRECT FITTING MAKE SURE YOUR HELMET COVERS YOUR FOREHEAD. ALWAYS WEAR A PROPERLY FITTED HELMET WHEN YOU RIDE YOUR BICYCLE. DO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT. AVOID RIDING IN WET CONDITIONS. INCORRECT FITTING FOREHEAD IS EXPOSED AND VULNERABLE TO SERIOUS INJURY.
PLEASE RETAIN YOUR SALES RECEIPT AS PROOF OF PURCHASE. FILL OUT THE INFORMATION BELOW AND KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SAFE PLACE.
ABOUT THIS MANUAL This manual was written to help you get the most performance, comfort, enjoyment and safety when riding your new bicycle. It is important for you to understand your new bike. By reading this manual before you go out on your first ride, you’ll know how to get the most from your new bicycle. It is also important that your first ride on your new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles, and other cyclists.
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS It is a tragic fact that most bicycle accidents involve children. As a parent or guardian, you bear the responsibility for the activities and safety of your minor child.
The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of all aspects of maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object. We recommend that you consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or maintain your bicycle.
DIRECTORY INDEX vii TOOLS 1 2-5 PARTS LIST/IDENTIFICATION BEFORE YOU RIDE 6-25 ASSEMBLY 26-64 HOW THINGS WORK 65-75 SERVICING 76-78 DETAILED MAINTENANCE TROUBLE SHOOTING 108-110 REGISTRATION CARD AND WARRANTY 111-116 WARNING/IMPORTANT Take notice of this symbol throughout this manual and pay particular attention to the instructions blocked off and preceded by this symbol. vi | DIRECTORY 79-107 DYNACRAFT BSC, INC. 89 South Kelly Road, American Canyon, CA 94503 Customer Service 1.800.551.
1 Below the Bar Shifters BICYCLE CARE Basic Maintenance 2 Storage 3 Security 4 ASSEMBLY 5 DERAILLEUR GEARED BIKES 6 Handlebars 6 Forks 7 8 Seat and Seat Post 10 Max./Min.
TOOLS TOOLS REQUIRED 1. Allen key wrenches: 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm 2. Adjustable wrench 3. Tire lever 4. Standard Phillips head screwdriver 5. Open end or pedal wrench 15 mm 6. Standard slip joint pliers 7. Tire pump 8. Standard flat head screwdriver 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 5 6 TRAVEL TOOLS 1. Spare Tube 2. Patch Kit 3. Pump 4. Tire Levers 5. Multi-tool 6.
Mountain bicycles are designed to give maximum comfort over a wide variety of road surfaces. The wider handlebars and convenient shift lever position make them very easy to control. Wider rims and tires give them a softer ride with more traction on rough surfaces. The frame and fork on mountain bicycles are much sturdier than those on racing style bicycles.
PARTS LIST / IDENTIFICATION DUAL SUSPENSION MOUNTAIN BICYCLES Dual Suspension Mountain bicycles are designed to give maximum comfort over a wide variety of road surfaces.
BMX bicycles are a popular general purpose type most suited for young riders. They are valued because of their sturdy and simple construction, and low maintenance.
PARTS LIST / IDENTIFICATION ROAD BICYCLES Road bicycles are designed for fast travel, hard training and competition on paved surfaces exclusively. It is the lightest, most aerodynamic and “fastest” type of bicycle.
FRAME WEIGHT LIMIT 1. Diamond Frame Bicycles Standover height is the basic element of bike fit (see figure). It is the distance from the ground to the top tube of the bicycle’s frame at that point where the top of the inseam of your pants is when straddling the bike. To check for correct standover height, straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If the inseam touches the frame, the bike is too big for you.
BEFORE YOU RIDE CORRECT FRAME SIZE When selecting a new bicycle, the correct choice of frame size is a very important safety consideration. CAUTION For safe and comfortable riding there should be a clearance of no less than 1 inch between the inseam area of the intended rider and the top tube of the bicycle frame, while the rider straddles the bicycle with both feet flat on the ground.
NOTE: Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility for that risk; not the people who sold you the bike; nor the people who made it; nor the people who distribute it; nor the people who manage or maintain the roads and trails you ride on. YOU. So you need to know - and to practice - the rules of safe and responsible riding. 1. IN THE INTEREST OF SAFER CYCLING, MAKE SURE YOU READ AND UNDERSTAND YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL.
BEFORE YOU RIDE RULES OF THE ROAD AND SAFETY TIPS (continued) 11. USE CAUTION AT ALL INTERSECTIONS AND STOP SIGNS. STOP AND LOOK BOTH WAYS BEFORE PROCEEDING. 12. USE HAND SIGNALS. Communicate by using hand signals to tell other drivers what you are going to do. Signal 100 feet before turning unless your hand is needed to control the bike (see page 8 for hand signal instructions). 13. HAVE PROPER LIGHTS AND REFLECTORS.
We recommend that children not ride on rough terrain unless they are accompanied by an adult. Off road riding on approved trails with appropriate protective equipment can be done with mountain bikes and BMX bikes if you have the skill and experience necessary to maintain control.
BEFORE YOU RIDE (continued) 4. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that does not frighten or endanger them, and give them enough room so that their unexpected moves don’t endanger you. 5. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while riding off-road, help may not be close. 6. Do NOT attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike. OFF ROAD RESPECT Obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride off-road, and respect private property.
Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous than riding during the day. A bicyclist is very difficult for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children should never ride at dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults who choose to accept the greatly increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra care both riding and choosing specialized equipment which helps reduce that risk. Consult your dealer about night riding safety equipment.
BEFORE YOU RIDE CORNERING TECHNIQUE Brake slightly before cornering and prepare to lean your body into the corner. Maintain the inside pedal at the 12 o’clock position and slightly point the inside knee in the direction you are turning. Keep the other leg straight, don’t pedal through fast or tight corners. RULES FOR CHILDREN To avoid an accident, teach children good riding skills with an emphasis on safety from an early age. 1. Always wear a properly fitted helmet. 2.
Saddle Height In order to obtain the most comfortable riding position and offer the best possible pedaling efficiency, the seat height should be set correctly in relation to the rider’s leg length. The correct saddle height should not allow leg strain from over-extension, and the hips should not rock from side to side when pedaling. While sitting on the bicycle with one pedal at it’s lowest point, place the ball of your foot on that pedal.
BEFORE YOU RIDE HANDLEBAR HEIGHT Maximum comfort is usually obtained when the handlebar height is equal to the height of the seat. You may wish to try different heights to find the most comfortable position. WARNING Over tightening the stem bolt or headset assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or injury to the rider. WARNING The stem’s “Minimum Insertion” mark must not be visible above the top of the headset.
Before every ride, it is important to carry out the following safety checks: (For information and instructions on performing specific equipment checks, locate the relevant section in the manual using the index on page vii). 1. Brakes • Ensure front and rear brakes work properly. • Ensure brake shoe pads are not over worn and are correctly positioned in relation to the rims. • Ensure brake control cables are lubricated, correctly adjusted, and display no obvious wear.
BEFORE YOU RIDE 5. Chain • Ensure chain is oiled, clean and runs smoothly. • Extra care is required in wet or dusty conditions. • On bicycles equipped with coaster brakes, check for proper chain tension. 6. Derailleurs • Check that front and rear mechanisms are adjusted and function properly. • Ensure control levers are securely attached. • Ensure derailleurs, shift levers and control cables are properly lubricated. 7.
BEFORE YOU RIDE HELMETS Local laws of most places require a helmet, and common sense requires them in other places where it is not the law. It is strongly advised that a properly fitting, CSPC approved, bicycle safety helmet be worn at all times when riding your bicycle. In addition, if you are carrying a passenger in a child safety seat, they must also be wearing a properly fitted helmet.
BEFORE YOU RIDE Please refer to the following section for instructions on all types of bicycle reflectors. NOTE: CPSC Regulations do not require reflectors on 10”, 12” and 16” Sidewalk Bicycles - We recommend, however, that you attach reflectors for the protection of the rider. These types of bicycles should be operated during daylight hours only, on a smooth, paved surface such as a sidewalk, under the direct supervision of an adult.
Slide reflector over bracket (shown on page 19) and ensure that the tab clicks into the top hole of the bracket. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the clamping reflector bracket. Place clamping reflector bracket around the handlebar or seatpost. If the clamp is too loose, insert the shim inside of the clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to hold reflector assembly in place. Finally, adjust the reflector such that it is upright and facing away from the bike.
BEFORE YOU RIDE GEARS - HOW TO OPERATE Derailleur Gears Most multi-speed bicycles today are equipped with what are known as derailleur gears. They operate using a system of levers and mechanisms to move the drive chain between different sized driving gears or cogs. The purpose of gears is to let you maintain a constant, steady pedaling pace under varying conditions. This means your riding will be less tiring without unnecessary straining up hills or fast pedaling down hill.
BEFORE YOU RIDE High Middle Low For optimal performance, NOT RECOMMENDED High Low For optimal performance, NOT RECOMMENDED Recommended Chainwheel/Rear Sprocket Gear Combinations Front Low Gear Rear Low Gear Front High Gear Rear High Gear Hand Grip Shifters Many bicycles are now being equipped with a shifting mechanism that is built into the handlebar grips and does not make use of separate levers.
BEFORE YOU RIDE Left hand lever BEFORE YOU RIDE Thumb Shifters (Top Mounted) Many mountain style bicycles are equipped with shifters mounted on the top of the handlebars and operated by the thumbs. To select a lower, easier gear, shift to a bigger rear cog and a small chainwheel. Pull the left shifter back to operate the rear derailleur. To select a higher, harder gear, shift to a smaller rear cog and a larger chainwheel.
Basic Maintenance The following procedures will help you maintain your bicycle for years of enjoyable riding. • Before you ride, check the alignment of the front wheel. If it is in alignment, you should see it if when lifting the front of the bike and spinning the wheel, the gaps between the front brake pads are consistently the same. If you do not see this, your wheels need truing. CAUTION: Wheels must be true for rim brakes to work effectively.
BEFORE YOU RIDE STORAGE Keep your bicycle in a dry location away from the weather and the sun. Ultraviolet rays may cause paint to fade or rubber and plastic parts to crack. Before storing your bicycle for a long period of time, clean and lubricate all components and wax the frame. Deflate the tires to half pressure and hang the bicycle off the ground. Don’t store near electric motors as ozone emissions may effect the rubber and paint.
Includes 20”, 24”, and 26” Wheel Mountain Bikes. Assembly is the same for men’s and women’s bikes. FOREWORD: Assembling a bicycle is an important responsibility. Proper assembly not only gives the rider more enjoyment of the bicycle, it also offers an important measure of safety. Getting Started Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and all accessories and parts for possible shortages.
ASSEMBLY HANDLEBARS Most of our bikes are equipped with a “quill” stem (figure X). To assemble the handlebars remove the protective cap from the wedge end of the stem bolt and loosen the bolt using the 6 mm Allen key. Some models may use a 13 mm hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar stem into the top of the steer tube which is the top end of the fork that has been inserted into the head tube at the factory, ensuring that all cables are free of tangles.
ASSEMBLY FIGURE Y Stem Binder Bolt Top Cap Spacer A Handlebar Handlebar Stem Clamp Bolts Steerer Clamp Bolts A Spacer Compress Upper Headset Cup Upper Cone Handlebar Stem Clamp Bearing Retainer Star Nut (inside steerer tube) Installed by Factory Headtube Lower Headset Cap Bearing Retainer Headset Crown Race Fork You can adjust the handlebar height a bit by adjusting stem height.
ASSEMBLY ROTATION OF SHIFTERS, BRAKE LEVERS AND BAR ENDS FIGURE 1 Shifter binder bolt (2.5 Allen key) Tighten all bolts that clamp the shifter, brake levers, and bar ends to the handlebar using a 5 mm Allen key or Phillips head screwdriver. (figure 1) Handlebar with grip shifter. (figure 2) Top mounted thumb shifter.
There are two different types of forks that range in styles and dimensions. One type is a rigid fork (figure 1) consisting of stationary tubing with curved blades. The other type is a suspension fork (figure 2) consisting of stanchion tubes riding on elastomers or springs inside of a straight fork leg. This mechanism acts as a shock absorber with a specified amount of travel that varies between models. If service is needed on a suspension fork, consult a professional bicycle repair technician.
ASSEMBLY SEAT AND SEATPOST Seat Clamp Seatpost Quick Release Adjusting Nut Attach the seat to the seatpost by loosening the nuts on the seat clamp. Insert the tapered end of the seatpost into the seat clamp until it is at the top of the clamp. Partially tighten the nuts on the seat clamp turning each side evenly until the seat is snug, but can still be turned. Insert the seat assembly into the frame of the bicycle and adjust the seat to the proper height.
CORRECT MAXIMUM INSERTION Do not insert below Maximum Insertion Mark - insertion below Maximum Insertion Mark will block rear reflector visibility. Maximum Seatpost Insertion Mark Reflector Bracket Minimum Insertion Mark Use reflector bracket Minimum Insertion Mark to confirm rear reflector visibility when adjusting seatpost or reflector bracket. INCORRECT MAXIMUM INSERTION Reflector visibility is blocked by rear fender when seatpost is inserted incorrectly.
ASSEMBLY Attach Seat Here NOTE: Comfort style bicycles may be equipped with a suspension seatpost (see diagram - left).
Check for the right (R, red) sticker and left (L, green) sticker on each pedal and crank arm. Match the appropriate pedal to each crank (right to right and left to left) for assembly. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads. Tighten with a 15 mm narrow open ended wrench so that the shoulder of the pedal spindle is securely tightened against the crank arm. Note that the right hand pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand (clockwise) thread.
ASSEMBLY CANTILEVER BRAKES Cable End 2. Set the cable into the straddle holder. 35 | ASSEMBLY BRAKES 1. Install the cable into the link wire. Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake adjustment and maintenance, refer to pages 35-41.
ASSEMBLY /lbs.
ASSEMBLY 37 | ASSEMBLY V-STYLE BRAKES If not already assembled, take the brake noodle from the parts box and slide the cable through the larger opening. The cable housing will then seat into the end of the noodle. Slide the cable through the cable lead on the end of the left brake arm, this will cause the noodle to fit into the lead. Always make sure that the noodle is properly seated in the outer cable lead. Slip the brake cable boot over the cable and position it between both brake arms.
1. If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body into the center spring hole in the frame mounting boss, and then secure the brake body to the frame with the link fixing bolt. 2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm and 3 mm) so that dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
ASSEMBLY 3. While holding the shoe against the rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut. 5. Adjust the balance with the spring tension adjustment screws. 4. Pass the inner cable through the inner cable lead, making sure that the noodle is properly seated in the outer cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance of 1 mm between each brake pad and the rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt. 6.
Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1 mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied. Brake pads should be centered on the rim and the rear portion of each brake pad should be about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther from the rim than the front portion of the brake pad. Brake pad aligned with the rim surface. CAUTION Pad and rim should be parallel.
ASSEMBLY DISK BRAKES Some models of bicycles may be equipped with disk brakes. The set up and maintenance of disk brakes vary by model and manufacturer, please read the instructions supplied with your bicycle for the specific instructions and warnings for the disk brakes supplied on your bicycle before adjusting your brakes or riding your bicycle. Disk brakes require breaking in before full breaking power is achieved.
Although the front and rear derailleur are initially adjusted at the factory, you will need to inspect and possibly readjust both before riding the bicycle. REAR DERAILLEUR Begin by shifting the rear shifter to largest number indicated, disconnect the cable from the rear derailleur cable anchor bolt, and place the chain on the smallest sprocket. Adjust the High limit screw so the guide pulley and the smallest sprocket are lined up vertically.
ASSEMBLY FRONT DERAILLEUR 3-5 mm Shift both shifter to the smallest number indicated and place the chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel. Disconnect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt. Check the position of the front derailleur; it should be parallel with the outer chainwheel and clear the largest chainwheel by 3 - 5 mm when fully engaged.
ASSEMBLY DUAL SUSPENSION Dual suspension bikes are equipped with a front fork as well as a rear suspension generally located below the seat. The rear suspension unit is a combination of a piston that works in conjunction with a spring to allow the rear swing arm to rotate on a pivot point. Ensure all attaching hardware is secured and there is no lateral movement of the rear triangle. The amount of Rear Suspension travel can be adjusted by turning the adjusting plate.
ASSEMBLY REAR PIVOTS The pivot assembly is a simple mechanism that allows the rear swing arm to move up and down in combination with a rear suspension unit. Size, shape and components will vary between models; however, operating principles are the same. The pivot point consists of a split bushing set, held in place by a bolt that rotates inside of fixed bushings in the frame. The pivot point should be kept clean and free of grime, and should be disassembled and regreased at least once a season.
ASSEMBLY ACCESSORIES Your bike may come with some or all of these accessories that require attachment and/or assembly. Kickstand If the kickstand is not mounted to your bicycle, place the bicycle in an upright position against a wall or have someone hold it upright. Place the kickstand in the bracket mounted on the frame and use the fixing bolt secure the kickstand in place. Be sure to tighten the fixing bolt securely.
ASSEMBLY FRONT FENDER ASSEMBLY FOR SHOCK FORKS 1. With front wheel off, install preassembled fender into fork legs facing forward with fender bracket positioned behind the fork. 47 | ASSEMBLY 2. Slide a washer onto the mounting bolt and insert through brake bridge and fender bracket. Place the other washer onto the mounting bolt and secure the mounting nut as shown above. 3. Attach fender arms (align the fender arm holes with the mounting holes on the fork end).
1. Install preassembled fender into fork legs facing forward with fender bracket positioned behind the fork. NOTE: Be certain that all fender bolts and nuts are tightened prior to riding. ASSEMBLY FRONT FENDER ASSEMBLY FOR REGULAR FORKS 2. Slide a washer onto the mounting bolt and insert through fork and fender bracket. Place the other washer onto the mounting bolt and secure the mounting nut as shown above. 3. Attach fender arms (align the fender arm holes with the mounting holes on the fork end).
ASSEMBLY 49 | FRONT BASKET ASSEMBLY Before assembling, loosen and remove all mounting bolts and nuts from mounting holes. STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3 1. Position the basket rack to the fork end. 2. Slide the washer onto the mounting bolts. 3. Insert mounting bolts through basket rack and fork end. 4. Securely tighten mounting bolts. 1. Position the basket against the basket rack. 2. Slide the washer onto the mounting bolts. 3. Insert mounting bolts through the basket. 4.
ASSEMBLY REAR RACK ASSEMBLY Before assembling, loosen and remove all mounting bolts and nuts from mounting holes. STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3 1. Place rack onto rear of bicycle as shown above. 1. Position the rack against the seatpost clamp. 2. Slide the washer onto the mounting bolts. 3. Insert mounting bolts onto clamp. 4. Securely tighten mounting bolts. 1. Position the rack arm against the seat stay end. 2. Slide the washer onto the mounting bolts. 3.
ASSEMBLY FINAL CHECK • Check that the brakes operate smoothly with no binding. To test, apply the brakes while trying to push the bicycle forward to make sure they will stop the bicycle. Do not ride your bicycle unless the brakes are functioning properly. • Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem within the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel between your knees and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side to side.
ASSEMBLY SINGLE SPEED AND BMX Includes 16” and 20” BMX bikes. Assembly is the same for boys and girls bikes. Foreword: Assembling a bicycle is an important responsibility. Proper assembly not only gives the rider more enjoyment of the bicycle; it also offers an important measure of safety. GETTING STARTED Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and all accessories and parts for possible shortages.
ASSEMBLY FIGURE X HANDLEBARS Most of our bikes are equipped with a “quill” stem (figure X). To assemble the handlebars remove the protective cap from the wedge end of the stem bolt and loosen the bolt using the 6 mm Allen key. Some models may use a 13 mm hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar stem into the top of the steer tube which is the top end of the fork that has been inserted into the head tube at the factory, ensuring that all cables are free of tangles.
ASSEMBLY SEAT Loosen nut on the seat clamp and add 3 or 4 drops of oil onto the threads of the bolt. Place the smaller end of the seatpost into the seat clamp until it stops with the bolt to the rear of the seatpost. Thread the nut on the seat clamp loosely. Insert the larger end of the seatpost into the seat tube of the bicycle frame observing the Minimum Insertion Mark on the seatpost. Position the top surface of the seat parallel with the ground.
ASSEMBLY PEDALS AND CRANK SET Check for the right (R, red) sticker and left (L, green) sticker on each pedal and crank arm. Match the appropriate pedal to each crank (right to right and left to left) for assembly. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads. Tighten with a 15 mm narrow open ended wrench so that the shoulder of the pedal spindle is securely tightened against the crank arm.
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake adjustment and maintenance, refer to pages 35-41. It is important to become familiar with the use of hand brakes. When properly adjusted, hand brakes are an efficient braking system. Keep the rim and brake shoes clean and free from wax, lubricants and dirt at all times.
ASSEMBLY CANTILEVER BRAKES CANTILEVER If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm. Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and thread brake cable through it. Adjust the brake shoes using a 10 mm wrench and 5 mm Allen key so that they are parallel with the rim and are positioned 1-2 mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may be necessary to achieve the correct brake position.
ASSEMBLY ASSEMBLY | 58
ASSEMBLY U-BRAKE INSTRUCTIONS 20 mm 59 | ASSEMBLY Adjust the pads of the U-brake using a 10 mm wrench. Make sure the pad is hitting the rim and not the tire. Ideally the front of the pad should hit the rim approximately 1 mm before the rear pad. Next, tighten the Cable Carrier to the brake cable approximately 20 mm from the brake arms when they are closed against the rim. Attach the Straddle cable to the carrier.
ASSEMBLY CHECK YOUR BRAKES TRAINING WHEEL Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads are hard enough on the rims to stop the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1 mm - 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied. Brake pads should be centered on the rim and the rear portion of each brake pad should be about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther from the rim than the front portion of brake pad.
ASSEMBLY 3. Connect the upper cable to the upper plate by passing the football ends of the upper cable through the threaded holes in the upper plate and connecting them to the bearing. 4. Screw the adjusting barrels into the upper plate. Don’t tighten the locknuts at this time. Lower Cable 1. Slide the cable casing through the cable guide on the frame. 2.
ASSEMBLY 1 mm (1/32 inch) WARNING Failure to adjust correctly may result in loss of braking power and personal injury.
ASSEMBLY PLEASE NOTE: Not all axles are able to accept axle pegs. Please consult your local bicycle specialist if you have any questions. Some BMX bicycles come with two or four pegs. NON-THREADED Make sure the axle nuts are tight with a 15 mm wrench or adjustable wrench. Place the domed washer (if supplied) over the axle and axle nut. Slide the peg onto the axle, and then using the supplied tool or a 15 mm socket and extended driver, thread the peg-fixing nut onto the axle.
ASSEMBLY FINAL CHECK Install any additional parts that are supplied with your bike. NOTE: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components than the ones illustrated. Reflectors: If not already attached, attach the reflector mounts to the bicycle (see page 20). Mount the white reflector on the front bracket and the red reflector on the rear bracket by sliding the reflectors over the brackets (see diagram, page 19) and ensure that the tab clicks into the top hole of the bracket.
HOW THINGS WORK HOW THINGS WORK It’s important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to understand how things work on your bicycle. Even if you’re an experienced bicyclist, don’t assume that the way things work on your new bike is the same as how they work on older bikes. Be sure to read and to understand this section of the manual. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand something, talk to your local bicycle specialist. Call 1-800-551-0032 with any further questions.
A. Removing a Bolt-On Front Wheel 1. Open up the brake shoes. 2. With a 15 mm box wrench or a six inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts. 3. If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step 4. If your front fork has an integral secondary retention device, loosen the axle nuts about six full turns; then go to step 4. 4.
HOW THINGS WORK SEATPOST QUICK RELEASE Many bikes are equipped with quick-release seatpost binders. While a quick release looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, in fact the quick release uses a cam action to firmly clamp the seatpost. WARNING Riding with an improperly tightened seatpost can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall. Therefore: 1.
NOTE: For most effective braking, use both brakes and apply them simultaneously. 1. How Brakes Work It’s important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes are required to be set up with the right brake lever controlling the rear brake, and then left lever controlling the front brake. Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably.
HOW THINGS WORK When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you flying over the handlebars). A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure.
Shifting Gears There are many different types of shifter mechanisms, each preferred for specific types of application because of its ergonomic, performance and price characteristics. The designers of your bike have selected the shifter design which they believe will give the best results on your bike. HOW THINGS WORK 2.
HOW THINGS WORK 71 | 3. Shifting the Rear Derailleur The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear to another on the rear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater distance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios.
A. Shifting internal gear hub gears Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated position for the desires gear. After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift. HOW THINGS WORK 5.
HOW THINGS WORK TIRES AND TUBES Tires Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general purpose designs to tires designed to perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bicycle has been equipped with tires which the bike’s manufacturer felt were the best balance of performance and value for the use for which the bike was intended.
WARNING HOW THINGS WORK Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tire performs under different terrain or weather conditions depends largely on tire pressure. Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the lowest rolling resistance, but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement.
HOW THINGS WORK BICYCLE SUSPENSION Some Mountain Bikes come equipped with suspension systems which are designed to smooth out some of the shocks encountered in riding. Suspension can increase the handling capabilities and comfort of your bicycle. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster, but you must not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill will take time and practice.
WARNING Many bicycle service and repair tasks require special knowledge and tools. Do not begin any adjustments or service on your bicycle until you have learned to properly complete them. Improper adjustment or service may result in damage to the bicycle or in an accident which can cause serious injury or death. SERVICING If you want to learn to do major service and repair work on your bike: • Ask your local bicycle repair shop to recommend a book on bicycle repair.
SERVICING 77 | The following are examples of the type of service you should perform yourself. All other service, maintenance and repair should be performed in a properly equipped facility by a qualified bicycle mechanic using the correct tools and procedures specified by the manufacturer. 1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work better if you break it in before riding it hard.
Frequency Component Lubricant How to Lubricate Weekly Chain Derailleur Wheels Derailleurs Brake Calipers Brake Levers Chain Lube or Light Oil Chain Lube or Light Oil Oil Oil Oil Brush on or Squirt Brush on or Squirt Oil Can 3 Drops from Oil Can 2 Drops from Oil Can Monthly Shift Levers Lithium Based Grease Disassemble Every Six Months Freewheel Brake Cables Oil Lithium Based Grease 2 Squirts from Oil Can Disassemble SERVICING SCHEDULE 2 - SERVICE CHECKLIST Yearly Bottom Bracket Lithium Ba
DETAILED MAINTENANCE WHEELS AND TIRES Wheel Inspection It is most important that the wheels are kept in top condition. Properly maintaining your bicycle’s wheels will help braking performance and stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems: • Dirty or Greasy Rims: CAUTION: These can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean them with oily or greasy materials. When cleaning, use a clean rag or wash with soapy water, rinse and air dry. Don’t ride while they’re wet.
Tires must be maintained properly to ensure road holding and stability. Check the following areas: Inflation: Ensure tires are inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. It is better to use a tire gauge and a hand pump than a service station pump. CAUTION: If inflating tires with a service station pump, take care that sudden over inflation does not cause tire to blow out. Bead Seating: When inflating or refitting tire, make sure that the bead is properly seated in the rim.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE HUB BEARING ADJUSTMENT When checked, the hub bearings of either wheel will require adjustment if there is any more than slight side play. Locknut 1. Check to make sure neither locknut is loose. 2. To adjust, remove wheel from bicycle and loosen the locknut on one side of the hub while holding the bearing cone on the same side with the bicycle cone wrench or flat, thin open end wrench. 3. Rotate the adjusting cone as needed to eliminate free play. 4.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE 6. Match the position of the leak in the tube with the tire to locate the possible cause and mark the location on the tire. 7. Remove the tire completely and inspect for a nail, glass, etc. and remove if located. Also inspect the inside of the rim to ensure there are no protruding spokes, rust or other potential causes. Replace the rim tape which covers the spoke ends, if damaged. 8. Remount one side of the tire onto the rim. 9.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE HANDLEBARS AND STEM Handlebar Stem The handlebar stem fits into the steering column and is held firm by the action of a binder bolt and expander wedge which, when tightened, binds with the inside of the fork steerer tube. When removing the stem, loosen the stem wedge bolt two or three turns, then give it a tap to loosen the wedge inside.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE When refitting the stem, make sure the handlebars are correctly aligned and tightened using the appropriate hex wrench or Allen key. Do not over tighten. Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem within the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel between your knees and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side to side. The handlebar should not move when applying turning pressure.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE GRIP SHIFTERS Grip Shift - Installation 1. Slide front Grip Shift assembly over left side of handlebar leaving proper clearance for handlebar grip. If necessary, move the brake lever to accommodate Grip Shift and handlebar grip. 2. Rotate assembly until cable exits beneath brake lever with adequate clearance for brake lever movement. 3. Firmly tighten recessed clamp screw. Installation torque should be 20 in/lbs. 4. Slide the 7/8” plastic washer over handlebar.
Cables and housing are one of the most overlooked parts on the bicycle. The first indication that your cables and housing need to be replaced is an increased amount of pressure needed to operate the brakes or shifters. Before every ride, check that there are no kinks or frays in the cables and housing. Check that the brake cables are correctly routed and not wrapped around the stem or frame in a manner that prevents smooth operation or hampers control of the bicycle.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE HEADSET Top Inspection The headset bearing adjustment should be checked every month. This is important as it is the headset which locks the fork into the frame, and if loose, can cause damage or result in an accident. While standing over the frame top tube with both feet on the ground, apply the front brake firmly and rock the bicycle back and forth; if you detect any looseness in the headset, it will need adjustment.
Inspection The seat fixing bolt and the seatpost binder bolt should be checked for tightness and adjustment every month. On removing the seatpost from the frame, you will notice a mark about 65 mm up from the bottom with the words “Max. Height” or “Minimum Insertion”. WARNING Under no circumstance should the seatpost project from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE SADDLE ADJUSTMENT The seat can be adjusted in height, angle and distance from the handlebars to suit the individual rider. Saddle angle is a matter of personal preference but the most comfortable position will usually be found when the top of the seat is almost parallel to the ground, or slightly raised at the front. The saddle can also be adjusted by sliding it forward or back along the mounting rails to obtain the most comfortable reach to the handlebars.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE BRAKES The correct adjustment and operation of your bicycle’s brakes is extremely important for safe operation. Brakes should be checked for effective operation before every ride. Frequent checking of adjustment is necessary as the control cables will stretch and the brake pads will become worn with use. WARNING Never ride a bicycle unless the brakes are functioning properly. The inability to stop can cause lose of control, serious injury or death.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE LUBRICATION Locknut The brake lever and brake caliper pivot points should be oiled with 2 - 3 drops of light oil at least every three months to ensure smooth operation and to reduce wear. Cables should be greased along their entire length, after removing them from their casings, at least every six months. Always grease new cables before fitting. ADJUSTMENT - SIDEPULL CALIPERS Minor brake adjustment can be made via the cable adjusting barrel, usually located at the upper cable arm.
ADJUSTMENT - CANTILEVER CALIPERS Minor brake adjustment can be made via the cable adjusting barrel, usually located on each brake lever. To adjust, squeeze the brake pads against the rim, loosen the lock nut, and turn the adjuster to pull the brake pads closer to, or spread them away from the rim as required. Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2 mm from the rim. When correct, retighten the locknut.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE 93 | DETAILED MAINTENANCE Adjust the brake pad position so that it is parallel to the wheel rim and so that the leading edge makes first contact. To do this, fit an Allen key into the brake pad holding bolt, loosen the fixing nut and adjust. Move the brake pad along its mounting post to alter the distance from the rim, and move the curved adjustment washer to alter the angle of the pad.
The drivetrain of a bicycle refers to all parts that transmit power to the rear wheel including the pedals, chain, chainwheel, crank set, and freewheel. PEDALS Pedals are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials, and each are designed with a particular purpose in mind. Some pedals can be fitted with toe clips and straps. These help to keep the feet correctly positioned and allow the rider to exert pulling force, as well as downward pressure, on the pedals.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE LUBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT Many pedals cannot be disassembled to allow access to the internal bearings and axle. However, it is usually possible to inject a little oil onto the inside bearings, and this should be done every six months. If the pedal is the type that can be fully disassembled, then the bearings should be removed, cleaned and greased every six to twelve months.
The crank set refers to the bottom bracket axle and bearings, the crank arms, and chainrings. Your bike may be fitted with either a one piece crank, where the crank arms and bottom bracket are a single component, or cotterless cranks, where the crank arms bolt onto the bottom bracket axle without using old fashioned type cotterpins. The one piece system is simpler and requires less maintenance, while the cotterless system requires a little extra care. WARNING Never ride your bike if the cranks are loose.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE 97 | LUBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT - ONE PIECE CRANKS To adjust the free play in a one piece type bottom bracket, loosen the locknut on the left side by turning it clockwise and tighten the adjusting cone counterclockwise using a screwdriver in the slot. When correctly adjusted, retighten the locknut counterclockwise. To disassemble: 1. Remove the chain from the chainwheel. 2. Remove the left pedal by turning the spindle clockwise. 3.
Cotterless Cranks To adjust the free play in a three piece type bottom bracket, loosen the lockring on the left side by turning it counterclockwise, then turn the adjusting cup as required. Retighten the lockring taking care not to alter the cup alignment. To disassemble: 1. Remove the cranks from the axle (see bottom diagram). 2. Remove the left side lockring by turning it counterclockwise. 3. Remove the adjusting cup by turning it counterclockwise. 4.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE Cotterless Crank Replacement 1. Replace the crank arm onto the axle. 2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet. 3. Refit the washer and tighten flange nut or bolt securely to a torque of 27Nm. 4. Replace the dust cover. Adjustment After Use 1. Remove dust cap. 2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet. 3. Retighten the flange nuts and refit the dust caps. Mallet CAUTION New cotterless cranks may become loose with initial use.
1. Use a 6 mm Allen wrench to loosen or tighten the cap screw in the binder end (2) and the end screw (1). The binder end cap screw (2) needs to be very tight. If a torque wrench is available tighten to 215 in/lbs. 2. Tap the crank lightly with a mallet to remove or replace the crank. Note on the right side the crank arm is riveted to the chainwheel and both will be removed or replaced together. What is shown is the left side. 3. Repeat step one.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE 101 | DETAILED MAINTENANCE CHAIN Inspection The chain must be kept clean, rust free and frequently lubricated in order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement if it stretches, breaks, or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure that there are no stiff links, they must all move freely. Lubrication The chain should be lubricated with light oil at least every month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions.
FREEWHEEL Inspection Like the chain, the freewheel must be kept clean and well lubricated. If the chain has become worn and needs replacing, then it is likely that the freewheel will also be replaced. Take the chain off the freewheel and rotate it with your hand. If you hear a grinding noise or the freewheel stops suddenly after spinning it, it may need adjustment or replacement. Such action is beyond the scope of this manual and you should consult a specialist.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE Lubrication Remove any accumulated dirt from the freewheel with a brush and a degreaser. Disassembly of the freewheel is a complicated procedure requiring special tools, and should be left to a specialist. Apply oil to the freewheel whenever you lubricate the chain, taking care to wipe off any excess. COASTER HUB Many BMX style and other children’s bicycles are fitted with a coaster hub brake in the rear wheel.
The derailleur system includes the front and rear derailleurs, the shift levers, and the derailleur control cables, all of which must function correctly for smooth gear shifting to occur. There are several different types of derailleur systems but all operate using similar principles. Your new bicycle may be fitted with a standard “friction” type system where you will need to feel each gear shift into position. It may be fitted with an “index” system (e.g.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning. 105 | DETAILED MAINTENANCE Adjustment - Front Derailleur 1. Shift the rear shifter to the smallest number indicated, then shift the front shifter to the smallest number indicated. Disconnect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the chain on the smallest chainwheel. 2. Make sure the front derailleur cage is parallel with the outer chainwheel on the crankset.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE Lubrication All the pivoting points of the front and rear derailleurs should be lubricated with light oil at least every month. Be sure to wipe off any excess oil to prevent attraction of dirt into the mechanisms. The shifting cables should be cleaned and recoated with a thin layer of grease every six months, or whenever new cables are being installed.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE 107 | DETAILED MAINTENANCE REFLECTORS Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange) reflectors. These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good, clean conditions at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found.
POSSIBLE CAUSE REMEDY Gear Shifts not working properly. - Derailleur cables sticking or stretched or damaged. - Front or rear derailleur not adjusted properly. - Indexed shifting not adjusted properly. - Lubricate, tighten, or replace cables. - Adjust derailleurs. - Adjust indexing. Slipping Chain. - Excessively worn/chipped chainring or freewheel sprocket teeth. - Chain worn/stretched. - Stiff link in chain. - Non-compatible chain or chainring or freewheel.
TROUBLE SHOOTING 109 | PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE REMEDY Freewheel does not rotate. - Freewheel internal pawl pins are jammed. - Lubricate, if problem persists, replace freewheel. Brakes not working effectively. - Brake blocks worn down. - Brake blocks/rim greasy,wet or dirty. - Brake cables are binding, stretched or damaged. - Brake levers are binding. - Brakes out of adjustment. - Replace brake blocks. - Clean blocks and rim. - Clean, adjust, or replace cables. - Adjust brake levers.
POSSIBLE CAUSE REMEDY Steering not accurate. - Wheels not aligned in frame. - Headset loose or binding. - Front forks or frame bent. - Stem wedge bolt not tight. - Align wheels correctly. - Adjust/tighten handset. - Take bike to a bike shop for possible frame realignment. - Tighten stem bolt until stem and fork are unified. Use the “between knee” test and if loose, tighten stem bolt until it passes the test. Frequent punctures. - Inner tube old or faulty. - Tire tread/casing worn.
LIMITED WARRANTY Production Limitations Problems of rider error aside, advanced or extreme riding also beats the heck out of your equipment and the bicycles covered by this manual are not intended for such advanced or extreme uses.
and safely used, we will replace a broken frame for the original purchaser. This warranty certainly doesn’t mean that the bicycle can in any way protect you from injury. Subject to the following limitations, all bicycles manufactured for Dynacraft are warranted to the original purchaser to be free of defects in materials and workmanship for a period from the date of purchase of: Lifetime for the Bicycle Frame and Fork, Two Years On All Other Component Parts. No other express or implied warranty is given.
BEWARE THERE ARE LIMITATIONS ON WHAT WE WARRANTY: This limited warranty does not apply to normal wear and tear, nor to claimed defects, malfunctions, or failures that result from abuse, neglect, improper assembly, improper maintenance, alteration, collision, crash, misuse, or any damaged caused while in an organized competition or commercial activity.
Dynacraft’s bicycles are intended for the average rider to use on streets, roads and bicycle approved off road trails, and 20 inch BMX and Free Style bicycles are for non competition youth play including limited trick riding and stunts that are safe and within the rider’s experience and limits.
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