Installation guide

P. 16 Installation Guide
Some vehicles may also have a separate or combined switch on the clutch pedal for cruise control.
Usually, a cruise-control switch reacts at the moment you touch the pedal, whereas a clutch switch
reacts only when the pedal is near the floor. Once the circuit type is determined, you must recreate,
with the system, the electrical interaction occurring at the switch in order to bypass the clutch at the
moment of remote starts. Relays are often used to accomplish this. Always use the Ground Out
When Running (G.O.) wire as the negative trigger on your clutch bypass relays, as it is only active
during remote starts.
Never carry out a permanent clutch switch bypass. Do not attempt a bypass at all if you are
unfamiliar with the use of relays and diode isolation.
Before any hot wiring attempts:
Test and record the way each wire tests in the following positions:
• With the pedal up:
§ test the wire with the Ignition Key in the OFF position
§ test the wire with the Key in the IGNITION ON (RUN) position
§ test the wire with the Key in the START position
• With the pedal down:
§ test the wire with the Ignition Key in the OFF position
§ test the wire with the Key in the IGNITION ON (RUN) position
§ test the wire with the Key in the START position
With this information for every wire at the switch, determining what type of clutch switching system
you have will be easy.
Direct Feed:
The simplest type of system to test and bypass is the “Direct Feed” system. This circuit simply
interrupts the +12 V signal starter wire from the Ignition switch to the starter solenoid. There are 2
wires in this circuit, the “key side” wire which goes from the clutch pedal to the Ignition switch, and
the “solenoid side” which goes from the clutch switch to the starter motor. When the key is turned
to the START position without pressing the pedal, you will test 12 V only on one of the wires at the
clutch switch, this is the key side. When the pedal is pressed down, and the key is the crank
position, the other wire will now also read 12 V, this is the solenoid side wire. To confirm you have
a direct feed clutch switch, hot wire the “solenoid side” wire with fused +12 V, and the starter motor
will crank. Connect the starter output from the System to the Solenoid side of the wire.
Note:
In the next two systems a Relay in the vehicle interrupts the start wire between the Ignition switch
and the starter motor. With the in the START position, and the clutch pedal pressed, the relay
energizes and allows the START signal to reach the starter motor. In these systems a wires from the
clutch triggers the relay, when the pedal is pressed. There will be another wire at the clutch switch
that supplies the signal to the trigger wire (either positive or negative, depending on the system)
Negative Systems:
In a negative system, when the clutch is pressed; a negative signal is sent to the relay, the relay
energizes, when the key is turned to the START position the 12 V from the start wire is allowed to
pass through the relay and to starter motor. One of the wires at the clutch will test as negative, this
is the supply wire. The relay's negative trigger wire will only show negative when the pedal is
pressed (some vehicle's also require the ignition system to be powered). To confirm you have a
negative system, hot wire the negative trigger wire by jumping it to a ground source with your fused
test jumper. You should now be able to turn the key to the START position and engage the start
motor, with out pressing in the clutch pedal. If there is nothing else connected to the Ground Out
When Running (G.O.) wire from the System, the G.O. wire should be strong enough to trigger the
vehicle's clutch relay. If there are other devices or modules connected to the G.O. Wire, a relay
(and diodes) may have to increase the negative current going to the clutch bypass.