Instruction manual

Where you route the cables along the frame of the bike etc, secure them as required using tie wraps. Care should be taken to ensure
that the cables cannot fall into the chain, wheel or foul the steering etc, or be trapped or crushed by the seat or body panels. If
required use some hard packing strips either side of the cables to prevent damaging the cables at pressure points such as where the
cables come from under the seat between the tank and body panels etc, if required bond the packing strips in place but only after
you are sure of the final location. Avoid any sharp angles or edges, which may damage or cut the cables. Pay particular attention to
the seat locking mechanism, which, if fouled could cause problems with removing the seat. When using tie wraps please be careful
not to over tighten them, taking care to avoid brake-lines, breathers, overflow pipes etc. and when you cut the surplus off any tie
wraps remember to cut short and square so that it reduces any sharp edges that may scratch you when servicing or washing the bike.
Before installing your headsests - DO NOT CUT OR MODIFY YOUR HELMETS
Plug in boom part 1109 (supplied as part of the complete headset) is our most universal boom designed to fit most full face,
flip front and open face helmets, although open face and some flip front helmets will require the optional open face
conversion kit (part 1198) to prevent direct wind blast. The headset is not designed to work with
1
⁄2 helmets (Chip style) which
normally require a longer boom and perhaps some additional padding to mount the speakers over your ears. Replacement
consumable foam speaker covers (part 1197) and replacement consumable microphone coverings (part 1214) are available
from your dealer. Part 1110 is similar to our part 1109 but is slightly longer (35mm or about 1
3
⁄8”) for very large heads/open
face helmets. Part 1111 is a short boom designed to velcro into the helmets chin bar (front fit). This can be useful in some flip
front helmets and most full face helmets, but not normally suitable for open face helmets due to lack of chin bar.
It is important to know that if not used correctly you will be losing much of the superior quality and performance that Autocom
headsets have to offer and what makes them by far the very best. It may take several attempts to get it right but when you do
it will pay dividends in sound quality, performance and comfort. In order to fully understand the full potential of your Autocom
system you need to hear it at its very best and only then will this give you a benchmark to work to during installation and
adjustment. Make sure that the rider and passenger volume controls are set to their mid positions, such that the pointers on the
end of each knob face the label, and do not use earplugs for this test. Note; if you are going to use a passenger headset then
it is a good idea to assemble this and plug it in to the passenger lead and to get them to assist you with this test, as when it
comes to checking their speaker positioning in their helmet only they can do this properly to suit them.
If possible try to create as much background noise as you possibly can, i.e. you may get someone to rev your bike engine if outside,
or perhaps turn on a noisy vacuum cleaner etc if in the house. If possible play one of your favourite pieces of music which has
good quality rich sounding bass etc through the system, via the stereo music lead supplied plugged into Aux socket 2. Adjust the
music to a comfortable level using the volume control on the music system making sure that you plug into the music systems
headset socket and not the line out socket or the volume control will not work.
Carefully move the speakers about over your ears so that the speaker centres are directly over the centres of each ear hole
(note that each speaker is offset in its plastic housing and has a three pointed star under the foam covering so that you can feel
where the centre of the speaker is, to help you find the speaker centre relative to your ear holes when fitted in the helmet.)
Apply slight pressure to the back of the speakers over your ears and the music playing through the system should almost completely
drown out most if not all of the noise in the background. When you have adjusted the speaker positioning so that the music quality
is at its very best and you can hear the least amount of background noise coming through, you have found the best possible speaker
position and sound quality and so you now know what to aim for when installing your speakers into your helmet.
You will notice that moving the speakers just 6mm (
1
⁄4”) away from the ears or out of alignment can easily halve the volume
and reduce the sound quality by letting in considerable external background noise, which will spoil the full potential of sound
quality and performance, especially at higher speeds when out on the bike and the helmet noise becomes far more powerful.
Correct speaker positioning is therefore essential and you will hear this during this test. It is also beneficial to speak through
the system so that you get a measure for the speech quality and level when the speaker are correctly positioned, but in order
to do this you first need to find, understand and use the microphone loud spot.
Listen to both music and speech carefully and try to remember the audio levels and in particular the quality of rich bass in the
music, because after installation in your helmet/s you need to assess if the sound level and quality are as good as before,
because if not you need to fine tune the speaker and/or microphone positioning until it is. Please use the same piece of music
through the system and same level of exterior noise during both pre-installation and after installation tests.
Top Tips
This may seem a strange way of evaluating and setting up the system but it really works and although your first helmet may
take a little longer you will get it right and then all further headset installations should be much easier and quicker due to
getting through this important learning curve. Do both the pre-installation test and the final test after helmet installation
without earplugs so that you can hear the vast difference it makes in having your microphone and speakers positioned
correctly. If you try this while using earplugs they will disguise much of what you are trying to hear, understand and achieve.
Avoid pressure directly to the front and back covers of the microphones as this could cause damage. The
microphone is floating in an acoustically dampening material to help prevent any helmet vibration being transmitted through
the boom to the microphone as part of the noise cancelling measures. To move or adjust the microphone please hold it by the
outer edges or rubber neck, making sure that the beige side of the fabric sits flat against and central to your lips.
6
MAIN CONTROL UNIT FINAL INSTALLATION