Instruction manual

4
Having read this manual completely and checked any questions with your dealer, you should
now be ready to remove the battery compartment lid and carefully connect a fresh PP3 9 volt
battery to the battery clip and then replace the battery compartment lid, taking care not to trap
any wires. Remember that alkaline type batteries typically last about 5 times longer than cheap
batteries. Rechargeable batteries are not recommended because they normally only have about
1
⁄5 of the capacity. Note; when used as a portable with an internal battery the system remains
automatically switched off unless a type (A) headset is plugged into the riders headset lead
(longest lead). Normally the passenger will carry the system.
Having read this manual completely and checked any questions with your dealer you should now be ready to do a pre-installation
test. It is highly recommended that before fully installing the Active-PLUS on your bike, or in a tank bag etc. that you carefully
think it through, as it is easy to do a complete installation only to then find a problem and not know the cause or how to resolve
it. By following these instructions you should find and cure any problems during the installation, and so only need to do it once.
Please note that Active-PLUS is splash resistant; but not designed to be completely sealed so as to allow it to breathe, which helps
to prevent build up of condensation that can develop due to internal heat from the power regulator and main amplifiers. Please
consider its location carefully in order to help prevent excessive water contamination. For example, do not position it where water
will be forced in under pressure, such as in the front of the bikes faring, or under a wheel arch etc. Look for locations say under
the seat near the rear light cluster or in a tank bag or pocket or wherever you are sure it will not get soaking wet. Reasonable
care should also be taken when washing the bike especially if you use a jet wash. You may cover the control box with a bag etc
when washing, but ensure the unit can breathe or you may cause damage if it is allowed to build up excessive condensation.
Lay all the parts out where you think you would like them to go either on the bike (normally under the seat near the rear light
cluster) or perhaps in your tank bag (if you have the optional two part power lead). Think carefully about where the cables will
run trying to avoid areas of potential electrical interference, such as HT leads, coils, spark plugs etc. and voltage regulator (normally
a metal finned box bolted to the bikes frame) and areas of high heat such as engine and exhaust systems and any sharp edges.
Typically if mounting the control unit under the seat the riders lead will come out between the seat and tank (or optionally
from the tank bag), and the passenger lead near to the rear of the seat, often close to the passenger grab handles where
fitted, but remember to watch out for any pressure points which may crush the cables and use packing strips either side of the
cable if required.
Remember this is only a trial fit at this stage. When you think you have it all figured out and have found your preferred
locations, see below for how to temporarily connect the 12 volt lead to a recommended fused ignition switched supply.
Normally you will connect the black (negative) wire directly to the battery negative terminal using the crimped eyelet
supplied as this is the best earth on the bike. Not using the battery earth is the most likely cause for interference issues.
Connect the red (Positive) wire to a recommended, switched ignition, fused supply, such as the positive feed to the tail lights,
or rear brake light switch and solder the joint. Always ask your bike dealer if you are not completely sure. Please note that you
can split the red and black power cable as required and cut them to length but don’t do this until you make the final
connection. Do not connect to the brake light circuit if your bike has ABS braking and/or a brake light failure
warning system (consult your bike supplier/ manufacturer for approval before connecting to any ABS brake light circuit or
bikes that have CANbus). If connection to the brake light circuit is not recommended, please use some other recommended
fused/ignition switched 12 volt supply, such as the rear tail light live feed or any other recommended point.
Always solder joints wherever possible, as this provides a more professional and reliable connection. Do not use quick
connectors like scotch-locks etc. These are nearly always unreliable and most bike manufacturers condemn their use, which
may also affect the bikes warranty. You will notice the supplied fitting kit includes items which will assist in installation (e.g.
tie wraps, insulation amalgamating tape to cover the soldered positive joint, (again don’t use this for the pre-install test) a
crimp type eyelet for connection to battery negative terminal, Velcro to fix the control box and if required also speakers into
helmet). Also consider our optional part 1546 which can help with some installations. For added safety and protection the
system has reverse polarity protection, which means that it reduces the risk of damage if you accidentally wire the power lead
the wrong way around, however, the unit will not function unless wired correctly. The system also has short circuit and thermal
overload protection. This means that the unit will automatically shut down in the event of being overloaded e.g. incorrect
transceiver used or improper connections.
GETTING STARTED
PORTABLE USE
PRE-INSTALLATION TEST
BIKE POWERED USE
CONNECTING THE POWER LEAD TO THE BIKE