Instruction manual

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Note: You can’t road test the cruise control with the bike running on your
centerstand. The cruise control has a built–in over-rev feature, it will shut
its self off before you know it’s actually working.
The Test Ride:
Wear all your gear just in case. Should the throttle stick, pull in the clutch
first then hit the kill switch. Don’t expect the brakes to stop the bike with a
stuck throttle; your bike is just too powerful.
The cruise will operate in any gear above about 30 MPH. Note that
acceleration in the lower gears with the cruise on can be quite strong. On a
straight level road with no traffic and in at least fourth gear at about 40
MPH set the cruise. The cruise should hold speed. Test that the cruise
shuts off with either brake. Also test that the cruise shuts off with the
clutch pulled in (The engine will rev up 500-1000 RPM before the cruise
shuts off). If you have any problems fix the bike before you ride in traffic.
If the cruise does not work at 40 MPH, try 60 MPH. If it works now your
PPM setting is too high. Try the next lower PPM setting.
If it works ok – Congratulations… You’re done
If it doesn’t work or you need to tweak it see the Troubleshooting
Instructions below:
Troubleshooting
99.9% of all cruise control problems aren’t with the cruise control. The
problem is with the installation or the installer.
Before you return a “defective” cruise control use the following trouble
shooting tips to try solve your problem:
The Cruise Control does not work at all:
Remember that you need a tachometer signal to the blue wire, engine
vacuum connected to the servo, and the purple brake wire connected
correctly for the cruise to work. If you don’t have all three, the cruise won’t
work.
Test for tachometer signal:
Start the bike and leave it in neutral: Turn on the cruise and look into the
servo housing where the wiring harness is installed. The Red LED should
be blinking. Increase the engine RPM’s and the LED should flash faster.
This confirms that you have a good tach signal.