Installation guide
®
4. Speaker channels are cutting in and out:
a. If using volume controls, check that they can handle
the power output.
b. When bridging, the amplier “sees” one-half the stated
speaker impedance rating. Make sure the impedance is
high enough. (See page 9.)
c. There may be a short in the wires. Suspect a short if the
problem happens only at the highest volumes.
5. Protection LED is Red:
a. Disconnect power from the unit for 3 to 4 minutes and
reconnect to power.
b. Something rather serious has happened inside the
Architect. Call the AudioControl factory.
6. Speaker Buzzing or Cracking at high volume:
• Reduce the equalizer boost at 75Hz.
7. There is no audio input signal, but the Channel Status
LED is still Blue:
a. Check the Signal-Sense defeat switch on the rear panel.
If it is pressed in, the Channel Status LEDs will stay on as
long as the Remote Power Control is enabled.
b. The Channel Status LEDs stays on for 30-60 seconds
(depending on music volume) after the audio signal has
stopped to prevent prematurely turning o during quiet
passages or song changes.
8. The unit is on but you cannot trigger it o
(Model 1261/1661/1281/1681)
• With the ethernet control, the unit will stay on if either
the 12v trigger is on (or jumpered) or the ethernet control is set
to on.
9. Is an in-wall volume control rated at 60 watts
(continuous) adequate?
• Just barely is the simple answer. Go for one with a higher
rating if you want a reliable system. Though The Architect is
rated at 65 watts, that is a conservative number and it can put
out more power if only a few channels are driven. In contrast to
the conservative rating of The Architect, the wall volume con-
trol may be rated using favorable assumptions. Also make sure
the volume control power rating is continuous not peak. The
continuous rating is about one-third of peak.
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Troubleshooting