User manual

The knob subassembly is o-ring sealed from water and debris. There is one dynamic o-ring in the knob
stem that can be lubricated if the knob becomes stiff to operate. This o-ring and the plastic split washer next to it
can be removed for cleaning and lubrication.
To reassemble, screw the spring adjustment pad fully back into the knob stem, and the stem fully into the
adjustment sleeve. Replace the knob and knob retainer.
9. Final demand valve assembly
• Assemble the orifice, washer and orifice sleeve (if removed) together.
• Screw them fully into the housing, then back out about 3/4 turn, or use the slotted end of the second stage
T-handle tool. The special tool limits the depth the orifice can be installed to the preliminary setting.
• Replace lever and poppet. (see #5-6) make sure they are installed correctly.
• Insert the inlet tube into the case. Rotate it to engage the square on the tube into the square on the case.
• Install the spring and balance chamber.
• Thread the knob assembly onto the inlet tube.
You will have to pull the tube out slightly from the case to thread onto knob on completely. Thread it on until
it stops, then check the alignment of the ribs on the sleeve with the grooves in the case. If they do not align,
unscrew the knob sleeve just enough to align the ribs and push the tube fully into the case.
• Replace and torque the jam nut and hose. If the comfort swivel is installed, the jam nut is not used. Assemble the
o-ring onto the inlet and re-fit the swivel hose assembly.
10.Second stage adjustment - Use a second stage pneumatic adjusting tool if available.
• Initial adjustment as follows: The orifice is screwed fully into the tube then out 3/4 turn, the adjustment knob all
the way out, and the spring pad fully retracted into knob (counterclockwise when looking at knob end.
• Pressurize and unscrew the orifice away from the seat until the lever reaches its highest possible position and
does not leak. Operate the lever several times, then screw the orifice back in so a very small amount of lever
travel is allowed (1/32") before the poppet leaks. Operate the lever again and test for leaks.
• Screw the spring adjusting pad in or out with a 1/8" hex wrench until a cracking effort of approximately
1.1-1.4" is achieved.
Avoid setting the cracking effort it lower than 1.1" because the regulator may leak air if placed in
water in the head down position. If a gauge is not available, the cracking effort can be set by water testing.
Cover and seal the mouthpiece tightly with your finger and set the second stage underwater, with the exhaust
valve up. Screw the spring pad in or out to set the cracking effort until air no longer escapes out the exhaust
valve. Gently purge and retest.
Note: Screwing the knob all the way in should increase the effort about 1" above the 1.1-1.4" setting.
ASSEMBLY/ADJUSTMENT NOTES (1ST STAGE)
REFER TO SCHEMATIC
11. Swivel and cap (T1x, T1, M1, B1, B2) Loosening
• Mount first stage on a valve on an empty tank or workbench.
• Loosen with the pin-lock first stage spanner (Peter Built p/n 24-160-140). Align the hole in the tool with the
indentations on the swivel cap. Engage the nylon hex screws into the indentations and unscrew to loosen from
the body. A conventional pin type first stage spanner may be used if a pin-lock tool is not available. If using
a conventional spanner, take special care not to slip the tool or it will scratch the chrome or the titanium.
Check your tool for proper fit and make sure the pins are not worn or rounded
Fixed cap (Z1)
• Install the 3/8-24 threaded end of the first stage handle (noted above) into a side port of the Z1 cap.
Unscrew the cap to loosen.
ATOMIC AQUATICS FIRST AND SECOND STAGE REGULATORS MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES • 9/2003 6