User Manual

measurement is less than 10 yards make a line and note the distance on the scope and
move the target out to 10 yards and mark that on the scope. You may use any increment
you wish after this. But, if you are intending this for pellet rifle Field Target use, make a
labeled mark for every yard out to about 30 yards. Thereafter, every 5 yards will work.
Such units will also work for Silhouette Target shooting. I personally will add a line for 25
M and 50 Yards where I will be shooting bench rest distances.
Once you have the distances you can set your target at these distances and find the point
mentioned above where the up elevation is at its minimum. Then working backward or
forward you can make a chart of how many clicks up it takes to be on target at that
distance. Also, please do your best to do these latter tests on a calm day because the wind
with or against you will alter the results.
The reticle on your AEON scope has vertical and horizontal lines that contain lines or dots
at evenly spaced intervals. Those are there to help you with “Kentucky Windage”
adjustments but there is a catch. When they design scopes they place the reticle at one of
two points. Each of these points is at a place where the image is actually in focus. (That is
why you went to so much trouble above to focus the reticle.) These two points are called
the front and rear points. Most of the scopes you are likely to encounter use the rear focus
point as does your AEON scope. So, what does that mean? Your AEON scope allows you to
vary the power that you are using. As you look through the scope and vary the power you
will note that the size of the reticle does not vary. What does that mean to you? It means
that as you vary the power the amount of windage of each mark on the reticle also varies.
For field target work where distances to the target go from 10 yards to 55 yards you should
pick a power and stay with it in most instances. What that does for you is simplify the
arithmetic. The following is purely an example with no basis in reality. Suppose that at the
power you have chosen one hash mark equals one inch at 24 yards. At 48 yards the same
hash mark will represent 2 inches of windage. At 12 yards it will equal ½ inch. If, like me,
you do not like the arithmetic approach you can pick a calm day and go shoot to work out
the windage amount at each of the divisions on your side wheel. I prefer this approach
because in the heat of competition it is easy to make mental mistakes. So make and have
your chart handy.
So what power should you choose? Here are some guidelines: If field target is your
preference then you probably bought an 8-32 or 10-40. Most people will use the maximum
power but before you do that consider this. At some of the competitions you will be
shooting into shadows with possible a dark colored target in those shadows on a cloudy
day. This means that at full power for your scope the exit pupil will be at its smallest and
you will get the dimmest image possible. I am 76 and I have tentatively chosen 24X on my
8-32 for my hash mark testing. I do this because I want the 2.1 exit pupil for my older
eyes. (The formula for finding exit pupil is to divide 50 (the size of your objective lens on
the AEON scopes) by the power you are at.) This is complicated by the fact that