User Manual

set up a target some short distance away, say 5 yards away. Make the target at least an
8½ by 11 with a single dot in the center. Take a shot. Mark your shot on the paper and
then move the controls trying to get the next shot closer to the dot on the paper. Also you
must keep track of how many major divisions you move and in which direction each time
you move either control. If you start out moving, say left 3 major divisions then decide you
need to come back one remember to subtract the latter movement so your total is 2 left.
Continue this process until you either hit the dot or come very close. Then move the target
back another 5 yards and start with another sheet of paper and a dot. Repeat this until
you get the target out to what you consider will be your longest shot and make your last
test.
The reason you need to know how far from center you are is for optical reasons. All lenses
are a series of compromises or tradeoffs especially near the edges of the objective (front)
lens group. However, any quality lens such as those found on AEON scopes will have the
most of the lens functioning very well. Again, I am fussy and need best accuracy (I do
shoot bench rest, after all). When I mounted my scope, I did the above; and I was within
two major divisions of the end of travel for both controls. While the picture I saw was
pretty good there was distortion and my results from a bench rest were sketchy. So
knowing about lenses and knowing where I was I set out to fix the problem. To get to the
center I needed to go a long way to the left and I was too low in elevation. To fix the
problem I used Duck Tape shims, really. I decided to put shims to correct elevation on the
rear ring and shims on the front ring to correct windage. The rear ring shims need to be
put opposite the direction you want to go. I was too low so I put the shims on the bottom
which levered the objective down in the front and raised the line of sight through the
optical train up. I corrected the too much left windage with shims on the right of the front
ring which levered the objective to the left and shifted the line of sight to the right. This is
complicated to say the least so persevere until you understand it. It will help you love your
AEON scope all the more. In fact, I consider this process so important that I will
recommend that you never move the scope controls as prescribed in the previous
paragraph. Rather, simply keep adding the duct tape shims until you get the scope
centered as well as possible without moving the controls. Do this and you accomplish two
things: First, your target will come down through the dead center of your optical train.
Second, for longer shots will, in all likelihood, not take your elevation and windage
adjustments into the questionable area of your optical train. Again, this is a function of
ALL optical trains, even the most expensive. When you get into those areas it will affect
your parallax focusing to some extent, not something you Field Target shooters will want.
If you had to place any shims start your sight in procedure again. When more shims are
not or no longer needed, your scope mounting is done and you are ready to shoot unless
you have not found your gun’s favorite pellet. To do that you will need to collect a bunch of
various pellets in quantities of about 5 each. I would also have at least one tin of pellets of
a medium weight and a good quality brand. The dealer who sold you the AEON scope and